smartchoice: thanks, I have done some of the things listed here already.

In that case, then your guess is as good as mine. Its either you manage it the way it is like i did until the season is over, or you do the otherwise..its a matter of decision taking.

How to manage:

1.At hold up you could just be disengaging the gears and do little reving now and then just to boost the fans to cool the system while the engine is on no load, and only engage the gear as you are about to move

2.Putting off the ac

3.Intermittently putting off the car while idling and turn it on again almost immediately just before the fan goes off to further cool off the system

4.Flip the climate controls to vent, turn on the heater to maximum, turn the fan to maximum. Point the vents out the window to reduce the heats on you if the weather is hot cos the temperature inside could be very hot, that will make you sweat like a hegoat.

Surprisingly, running your heater at full blast takes away the heat significantly from your engine keeping it cool because that very heat is what is usually trapped to heat up your engine to its operational temperature

au.hanson:


In that case, then your guess is as good as mine. Its either you manage it the way it is like i did until the season is over, or you do the otherwise..its a matter of decision taking.

1.At hold up you could just be disengaging the gears and do little reving now and then just to boost the fans to cool the system while the engine is on no load, and only engage the gear as you are about to move

2.Putting off the ac

3.Intermittently putting off the car while idling and turn it on again almost immediately just before the fan goes off to further cool off the system

4.Flip the climate controls to vent, turn on the heater to maximum, turn the fan to maximum. Point the vents out the window to reduce the heats on you if the weather is hot cos the inside could be very hot.

Surprisingly, running your heater at full blast takes away the heat significantly from your engine keeping it cool because that very heat is what is usually trapped to heat up your engine to its operational temperature

I used to think leaving the ac on helps keeps the car from overheating. I noticed once when I had a gas-leak on my ac-system, that day I decided to turn off ac while I head for a seal and refill immediately but encountered a bit of traffic. There and then, I noticed the temp. rising while the engine was idling. I proceeded to turn on the ac(as I saw the rise) and it started going down gradually while still idling in traffic.

This was on a very hot afternoon though.

inze:

I used to think leaving the ac on helps keeps the car from overheating. I noticed once when I had a gas-leak on my ac-system, that day I decided to turn off ac while I head for a seal and refill immediately but encountered a bit of traffic. There and then, I noticed the temp. rising while the engine was idling. I proceeded to turn on the ac(as I saw the rise) and it started going down gradually while still idling in traffic.

In your own case your electrical(external fans) did not come in full blast yet, it was your ac that trickers them to full blast, thats why your engine became cooler, that means you hadn't reach your maximum temperature for the fans to have come up or you fan module has a little fault

Your ac adds a great deal of load on your car, but the fans in full blast helped in cooling the system, but idling for a very long time in a very hot weather will compel you to shutdown the ac, or your system will shut them down on its own if it is still within the factory settings controlled by your ECU

Also the load from your ac becomes less as your refrigerants leaks

au.hanson:



In this case i dont think you really need the gauge,it has not gotten that bad yet, all you need is to wash the tank, then all will be fine. However, a new gauge cost about 40k for new , but an after market tank cost like 15k or thereabout and it comes with the gauge, so you do not need to buy another gauge like i said earlier. You may just wash the tank and change your pump and filter or just leave them there if they are not bad, then you will be fine, but make sure the tank is throughly washed; i really have to emphasise on this. if possible buy a gallon of thinner to use in washing it, you'll be surprise at the result. If after now you still insist on selling it, let me know your range

tommysparks: @matson, there is a wrong connection with your fuel sender did u change your fuel filter or pump and if u are in abuja I will direct you to someone that can fix it. And I want to ask if I can use carburetor spray to wash my airflow meter I just had it changed and on travelling from abuja to jigawa d car started idling rough and wants to go off before picking up on acceleration and occassionally goes off when I stop at a traffic light which I have to restart.

Noticed I didn't respond on the outcome. I did as instructed, i.e had tank washed and it fixed the problem till the tank got to reserve mark, had to take it to Alhaji Kehinde. Apparently the gauge was the problem, he fixed it but worked a few days too. I had to get the pump replaced and all has been well since then. Bought the pump at N27,000.

matson:



Noticed I didn't respond on the outcome. I did as instructed, i.e had tank washed and it fixed the problem till the tank got to reserve mark, had to take it to Alhaji Kehinde. Apparently the gauge was the problem, he fixed it but worked a few days too. I had to get the pump replaced and all has been well since then. Bought the pump at N27,000.

Thanks for the feedback at last. it is always good to give a feedback so for others to learn too. But you didn't tell us what he did to the gauge?

Sometimes the problem may not look like it sound not until you are on site, then would you see a different thing you never really thought of . It has happen to me on few occasions.

To my understanding, the gauge wasnt getting all the way to the bottom of the tank, so it sends signal to the car that the tank is empty once it gets to the level it can reach. He took off the guage from both the pump and the 'sender' and cleaned them thoroughly. If it was possible to get another gauge, I'm sure the problem would have been solved instead of purchasing another pump. You're right about feedbacks. I apologize.

Mr Hanson, your knowledge of Benz is overwhelming by the day, and the manner you pass the message across in respect to the locality, a lame man can understand . Good job keep it up. I have been enjoying all the way, nice hobby though to an IT guru

prudence.smart:
Mr Hanson, your knowledge of Benz is overwhelming by the day, and the manner you pass the message across in respect to the locality, a lame man can understand . Good job keep it up. I have been enjoying all the way, nice hobby though to an IT guru

Ha ha ha, Prudence you are flattering me here..thanks anyways

You see , when i was in Iowa in 2005/6 pursuing a course in computer hardware maintenance and web development, i was always missing home , i wanted to know how things fare at home , the contrast between home and abroad usually excited me, that is why i always curtail my solution to the particular locality at stake because i know enthusiast abroad would always want to know how it goes over here.They miss the territory. Anyway that is from experience

Back to the topic, i was just wondering this morning , my mind was just driving at this thermostat thing and the season at stake overhere at the moment, then i said to myself, if i had a nightmare(head gasket cracked 2 times) about 2 years ago with 85 degrees thermostat in my MB 190 and had to change it to 71 degrees and the nightmare went off,by analogy, then why don't i try similar thing and see. So this morning i decided to swap the 87 degrees thermostat with 71 degrees both whaler brand in my MB c180 just to observe this crasy temperature rise..just an experiment that could turn into a theory for the locality at stake.

I tested the 71 degrees thermostat on a hot afternoon sun, took out the car for a ride of about 8 miles distance, visiting places i had not visited for so long. In about some few minutes the temp settle at about 82 degrees celsius, as i survive the traffic without having to deploy any management skill like before and came back home the temp hits 90s+ but never exceeded 100 degrees unlike before, where it would have hit 110+ putting my fans in panic mode(and eventually my ECU will shutdown the ride at the middle of the road,what an embarrassment untill the system cools off). see picture below. So i stand to deduce that:

1. Temperature thing is territorial and seasonal
2. In this season, a gain of extra 10 degrees is added to your normal thermostat range.That is if your installed thermostat reading is 71, definitely your overall temp will gauge about 82 degrees;if your installed thermostat reads 87 degrees definitely your overall temp will gauge about 99 degrees and so on...
3. It wouldn't be a bad practice to install 71 degrees thermostat in this season and have peace of mind than managing in panic mode.

Please contrary opinion is welcome

See pictures below of my MB 190 and C class 71 degrees thermostat installed in both cases

au.hanson:


Ha ha ha, Prudence you are flattering me here..thanks anyways

You see , when i was in Iowa in 2005/6 pursuing a course in computer hardware maintenance and web development, i was always missing home , i wanted to know how things fare at home , the contrast between home and abroad usually excited me, that is why i always curtail my solution to the particular locality at stake because i know enthusiast abroad would always want to know how it goes over here.They miss the territory. Anyway that is from experience

Back to the topic, i was just wondering this morning , my mind was just driving at this thermostat thing and the season at stake overhere at the moment, then i said to myself, if i had a nightmare(head gasket cracked 2 times) about 2 years ago with 85 degrees thermostat in my MB 190 and had to change it to 71 degrees and the nightmare went off,by analogy, then why don't i try similar thing and see. So this morning i decided to swap the 87 degrees thermostat with 71 degrees both whaler brand in my MB c180 just to observe this crasy temperature rise..just an experiment that could turn into a theory for the locality at stake.

I tested the 71 degrees thermostat on a hot afternoon sun, took out the car for a ride of about 8 miles distance, visiting places i had not visited for so long. In about some few minutes the temp settle at about 82 degrees celsius, as i survive the traffic without having to deploy any management skill like before and came back home the temp hits 90s+ but never exceeded 100 degrees unlike before, where it would have hit 110+ putting my fans in panic mode(and eventually my ECU will shutdown the ride at the middle of the road,what a embarrassment untill the system cools off). see picture below. So i stand to deduce that:

1. Temperature thing is territorial and seasonal
2. In this season, a gain of extra 10 degrees is added to your normal thermostat range.That is if your installed thermostat reading is 71, definitely your overall temp will gauge about 82 degrees;if your installed thermostat reads 87 degrees definitely your overall temp will gauge about 99 degrees and so on...
3. It wouldn't be a bad practice to install 71 degrees thermostat in this season and have peace of mind than managing in panic mode.

Please contrary opinion is welcome

See pictures below of my MB 190 and C class 71 degrees thermostat installed in both cases

hmmm! very interesting

interesting hanson.....so the 71 thermo opens @ a lower temp to enable faster cooling....

smartchoice: interesting hanson.....so the 71 thermo opens @ a lower temp to enable faster cooling....

Sure! just before the hot atmospheric weather conditions overwhelm it

That's correct mr prudence. Also, if your fan is not connected to crank at start up, barely a min of starting your car, you could see it approach 80 degrees mark with speed. and each time you stop and crank, if the temp goes above 90, it will bring it down sharp sharp like magic to about 80+ . saving you a lot of stress..Just try it and see. You see the weather and your cabin heat is on the high side and its duty is to bring it down to manageable level sharp sharp.

I put off the ignition in the traffic expecting a rise as i put it on , definitely it hits 90+ as soon as i crank back, but all of a sudden, it fell back to 82+ immediately, just like magic(that is if your viscous fan clutch and the external fans are in order).

AU. Hanson, your rpm looks rich at idling, indicating strong health of your engine

Hello Mr SmartChoice, how is the takeoff your new engine in relation to the old one and the rpm mark? Any picture will be highly appreciated

take off is mad....crazy....before blinking I find myself on 120-140 Ilesha Ibadan Express road. However I put a 220 engine not a 180. It idles @ 700rpm unlike the 180 that had to be adjusted to idle at 1000rpm to maintain stability.....though there have been challenges like bad nozzle seals which I had to replace but it runs on Total Quartz 9000 Synthetic which I dared not try on the 180 engine.

prudence.smart:
Hello Mr SmartChoice, how is the takeoff your new engine in relation to the old one and the rpm mark? Any picture will be highly appreciated

smartchoice: take off is mad....crazy....before blinking I find myself on 120-140 Ilesha Ibadan Express road. However I put a 220 engine not a 180. It idles @ 700rpm unlike the 180 that had to be adjusted to idle at 1000rpm to maintain stability.....though there have been challenges like bad nozzle seals which I had to replace but it runs on Total Quartz 9000 Synthetic which I dared not try on the 180 engine.

Guy, sure say i no go swap my own engine too with 220 like yours.

That nozzle seal na small problem na, u fit commot from old engine and replace, or buy "belgium" from the market.

What other challenges have you got with it?

smartchoice: take off is mad....crazy....before blinking I find myself on 120-140 Ilesha Ibadan Express road. However I put a 220 engine not a 180. It idles @ 700rpm unlike the 180 that had to be adjusted to idle at 1000rpm to maintain stability.....though there have been challenges like bad nozzle seals which I had to replace but it runs on Total Quartz 9000 Synthetic which I dared not try on the 180 engine.

I recall smartchoice saying the 220 engine in the 202 is the most problematic, your mechanic asked you to steer clear off it.
did you replace your exhaust with the twin pipe of the c220, it may help in some gain in hp...

No other problems...changed the seals but was still dripping so had to swap the nozzles with the old engine

au.hanson:


Guy, sure say i no go swap my own engine too with 220 like yours.

That nozzle seal na small problem na, u fit commot from old engine and replace, or buy "belgium" from the market.

What other challenges have you got with it?

@yungboss my 220 engine is modified without other additions obtainable in the normal c220....your memory is commendable. I did not add a twin exhaust

smartchoice: No other problems...changed the seals but was still dripping so had to swap the nozzles with the old engine



@yungboss my 220 engine is modified without other additions obtainable in the normal c220....your memory is commendable. I did not add a twin exhaust

nice job man, I like stuffs like this. I'm thinking of replacing the 320 lump in my car to 325, my wife has not permitted me to sell yet.
if I have to keep it, I'll replace the exhaust with the 25's twin tail...

yungboss:
..did you replace your exhaust with the twin pipe of the c220, it may help in some gain in hp...

I think that is good recommendations there. I remembered doing same to my MB 190 when i upgraded, it actually gave a better flowthrough with an extra horsepower.

I need that extra horsepower..feel like doing same to my c180 with an engine swap of 220, whether 230 can enter there without having to change the ECU and wires?

it will enta d PLACE...

au.hanson:


I think that is good recommendations there. I remembered doing same to my MB 190 when i upgraded, it actually gave a better flowthrough with an extra horsepower.

I need that extra horsepower..feel like doing same to my c180 with an engine swap of 220, whether 230 can enter there without having to change the ECU and wires?

segedoo:
Hi MB gurus, Much respect. I just got a c200 1998, manual tranny.

1. What are the things I must ensure the mechanic does while servicing it for the 1st time?

2. Where is the engine number written under the hood?

3. Can someone please send me it's manual? My email segedoo@gmail.com.

4. I spoke to a MB Mech who said it'd cost 17k to service. Is this a fair price?

Nawa o. nobody even reply any of my questions. I'm quite sure it was an oversight. abi na cabal?

Happy new year to the entire benz family.

segedoo:

Nawa o. nobody even reply any of my questions. I'm quite sure it was an oversight. abi na cabal?

Response to 4, tell him to list all the items his replacing or better still what's service is he rendering for 17K

change the oil....for the first time....just the oil and put in Total Oil Quartz 9000...8,500naira I think.
Change the Oil filter...2k or there about.
Check Brakepads if you have noticed and vibrations/noise when braking, if not leave it.
Check your alignment if only you have noticed anything like swerving when braking etc.
pls no electrical component should be tampered with under any circumstance. You've been warned.
Get an MB specialist or use the Total service station. And be sure you're given Quartz 9000....please insist on that oil. Its your money n ur car!
17k seems very unreasonable for only servicing.

segedoo:
Nawa o. nobody even reply any of my questions. I'm quite sure it was an oversight. abi na cabal?

Happy new year to everyone MB peeps in the house. 2014 shall be a great year for us all. Amen!

Happy New Year Mercedes Benz Gurus. I will like to join the class of Benz owners. Please help me decide between C230 Kompressor 1999 model and C180 W202 2000 model and how much should i budget for the car. Thanks and hoping to read your responses, please.

smartchoice: change the oil....for the first time....just the oil and put in Total Oil Quartz 9000...8,500naira I think.
Change the Oil filter...2k or there about.
Check Brakepads if you have noticed and vibrations/noise when braking, if not leave it.
Check your alignment if only you have noticed anything like swerving when braking etc.
pls no electrical component should be tampered with under any circumstance. You've been warned.
Get an MB specialist or use the Total service station. And be sure you're given Quartz 9000....please insist on that oil. Its your money n ur car!
17k seems very unreasonable for only servicing.

17k may not even be enough depending on what the mechanic thought when he quoted the price. This is what I mean:

1. Quartz 9000 comes in 5L container while mobile 1 is in 4L bottle and cost 8000 and 8400 respectively. The car needs 6L of any of these.

2. Oil filter, the good one, costs 1500

3. Four oem Bosch spark plug cost 3200

4. If your brake pads are gone, prepare for replacement of almost 4000

Now, oil+ filter is almost 20k. Your price rises if you are changing spark plugs and brake pad.

The good thing is that you are not going to be changing engine oil every 2-3mth if you use Total quartz or mobile 1. I know it is every 15k miles or once per year which comes first for mobile 1. The next oil change is going to be cheaper too because you only going to buy a gallon of the oil. Your spark plugs has 2yrs guarantee and can live for as many years as possible.

Wurans: Happy New Year Mercedes Benz Gurus. I will like to join the class of Benz owners. Please help me decide between C230 Kompressor 1999 model and C180 W202 2000 model and how much should i budget for the car. Thanks and hoping to read your responses, please.

Have you read this thread from the first post? Your query has been answered several times. This was what I did before I joined the class of benzoid-the real men .
The simple answer is, if fuel economy leads your scale of preference and you can't compromise that too; please go for c180. However, if you want power and wanna kick some a***s on the highway; go for c230k. Btw, don't be too strict about a particular year. I had the same thought before I got my car. I was always hammering 1999/2000 makes. Most recent does not necessarily mean "better" or "perfect". Mine is 1997 model and far better than most 99/00 model saw on the market on that day. In fact, mine was the best on the market.

Concerning the cost, 750k-1M for c180 and 900k-1.3M for c230k depending on the grade.

why will he have to change plugs @ first service?
Mobil1 has a litre bottle.
Don't forget you can mix ordinary oil of the same specs with the synthetic depending on ur purse.
I think like GEE2728 said earlier he should ask the mech to give him a list of things needed with their prices.

ziccoit:

17k may not even be enough depending on what the mechanic thought when he quoted the price. This is what I mean:

1. Quartz 9000 comes in 5L container while mobile 1 is in 4L bottle and cost 8000 and 8400 respectively. The car needs 6L of any of these.

2. Oil filter, the good one, costs 1500

3. Four oem Bosch spark plug cost 3200

4. If your brake pads are gone, prepare for replacement of almost 4000

Now, oil+ filter is almost 20k. Your price rises if you are changing spark plugs and brake pad.

The good thing is that you are not going to be changing engine oil every 2-3mth if you use Total quartz or mobile 1. I know it is every 15k miles or once per year which comes first for mobile 1. The next oil change is going to be cheaper too because you only going to buy a gallon of the oil. Your spark plugs has 2yrs guarantee and can live for as many years as possible.

Wurans: Happy New Year Mercedes Benz Gurus. I will like to join the class of Benz owners. Please help me decide between C230 Kompressor 1999 model and C180 W202 2000 model and how much should i budget for the car. Thanks and hoping to read your responses, please.

ziccoit has said his own based on his experience. honestly i'll suggest u go for the 'bulletproof' late model C230k. got one and its a TANK. paid about 1.3mil around September 2012 and its still kicking even at 188k miles.

smartchoice: why will he have to change plugs @ first service?
Mobil1 has a litre bottle.
Don't forget you can mix ordinary oil of the same specs with the synthetic depending on ur purse.
I think like GEE2728 said earlier he should ask the mech to give him a list of things needed with their prices.

He may not have to change it, but it is a possibility. When I serviced my car and the guy pulled out the plugs, the base has gone rotten that I had to call for it to be changed.