Hello, noticed my car odo meter rolled back to 000001 while driving.. thought It was meant to be 100000.




Camry droplight

Please I need help, I was driving my Toyota Camry tiny light, and then it stopped firing and was still on, so after a little while it started firing normal but as soon as I added pressure it stopped firing again and at a point the car went off and I kicked it again and it started normal. As it was not firing the car was shooting also, please what do I need to d. Thanks

johnonuh:
Please I need help, I was driving my Toyota Camry tiny light, and then it stopped firing and was still on, so after a little while it started firing normal but as soon as I added pressure it stopped firing again and at a point the car went off and I kicked it again and it started normal. As it was not firing the car was shooting also, please what do I need to d. Thanks

Check your injector

Please I need a tested and trusted Honda mechanic around Ikeja and Agege or anywhere in the mainland.

Kindly share contact if you know any.

Thanks in anticipation.

tolajay:
Please I need a tested and trusted Honda mechanic around Ikeja and Agege or anywhere in the mainland.

Kindly share contact if you know any.

Thanks in anticipation.

... Available At Lasu Iba Road.. Firstly.. What Year Is The Honda...

My 2007 Toyota camry shakes and vibrates when in drive mode. All the engine seats are intact. I have serviced the injector and changed spark plugs, cleaned the air flow filter. Still does the same. What can i do guys ? It shakes so much you would see / feel the effect of the vibration on the dashboard

johnonuh:
Please I need help, I was driving my Toyota Camry tiny light, and then it stopped firing and was still on, so after a little while it started firing normal but as soon as I added pressure it stopped firing again and at a point the car went off and I kicked it again and it started normal. As it was not firing the car was shooting also, please what do I need to d. Thanks

Clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, or both

I have a lexus Rx350 2008 model. I noticed a persistent check engine light, flashing VSC and Trac light on my dashboard about 3 days ago . It took the car for a scanning and P0017 (Crankshaft position, Correlation (bank 1 sensor B) was shown.

Recent technical history :
About 6 weeks ago, I contracted a driver to bring the car from Ibadan to Abuja. Unfortunately, the driver burnt my top cylinder gasket midway into the journey. He blamed it on faulty fan belt and water pump.

I got a mechanic to fix it, though I wasn't there. The mechanic suggested the radiator is changed to double cell and the thermostat removed. These were done and the burnt gasket was replaced. The car was managed to get to Abuja, though drove by another driver, despite the ordeal.

When collected my car back, I noticed check engine light, Vsc and trac light were on. I scanned it with these codes p0116, p0128 shown.
It was after I got and fixed another new thermostat and returned the electrical connection back to the factory setting that the P0017 started showing up.
Presently, the no sign of idleness and it starts promptly.

Would you advice I take the for the time chain refitting or continue to drive it that way?

NB: I used to service the car with a full synthetic Mobil 1 5W20 until 6 weeks ago when Mobil 20W50 was used

I would appreciate your prompt professional counsel..

larrixauto2017:
Dry clutch > Are types of clutch located in the manual transmission they need no oil to run. that is when spoilt they bring up some rattling sound and noisy sound when spoilt or used rough

Manual volkswagen Passat engine goes off when I apply brakes at low speeds.

What could be the problem ?

My Camry when put on drive and I press brake make some cracking sound from the front wheel... When put on neutral or park and I apply brake it doesn't make those sound. What's the issues

My friend bought a Nigerian use 03 rav4, but I noticed the out of the 4 oxygen sensor bellow the manifold only 1 is connected, the rest are just there with their wires looking at me without a sucket, and when I checked underneath there is no hole for oxygen sensor on the on the catalyst, he have not really driven the car to know the rate of fuel consumption, please is this proper? If not, what can be done?

My Corolla 05 makes a knocking sound when I put on the ignition with the engine oil light on. It goes off when throttle down and sound normal.

Also, the engine oil light blinks when car is idle or while braking mostly when the engine is warm and must have work for several minutes or hour.

I have just charged the oil pump thinking that was the culprit but the problem still persist.

What could have gone wrong pls expert in the house?

kala111:
My Corolla 05 makes a knocking sound when I put on the ignition with the engine oil light on. It goes off when throttle down and sound normal.

Also, the engine oil light blinks when car is idle or while braking mostly when the engine is warm and must have work for several minutes or hour.

I have just charged the oil pump thinking that was the culprit but the problem still persist.

What could have gone wrong pls expert in the house?

Check the oil sensor. If it's faulty, it won't tell the oil pump when to pump fuel, leading to the oil light blinking intermittently.
It's also possible, you have sludge on the engine, blocking the sensor from doing its work.
My 2cents

Good evening House,
I noticed that my coolant was gradually going down and I topped it twice, then today it started overheating and when I stopped, there was small coolant in the reservoir and practically none in the radiator.
Before now, I have checked for leaks or evap and noticed none.
After the incident today, with water in the reservoir and the radiator, the temperature kept rising and I had to keep stopping for it to cool down. The temperature also rises with speed.

What could be the problem, water pump? Leaking hose, heat not escaping from the engine?
Please what can be the issue and where can I fix it in a pocket friendly way at the island

Hello pls my 04 toyota Sequoia brake does not catch again after being parked for a long time. When i match the brake now it just goes down but doesn't work. Pls who has a good brake specialist in lekki ajah area?

Yea.. Everyone Sorry For The Delay I Was Suspended By The Mod....But Now...

Ask Your Mechanic...

Abuja...

Lagos...

You Can Bring Your Car For Repair...

We Upgrade... and Sell Cars Too God Bless You All

My Corolla steering shakes whenever I'm trying to slow down (apply brake) after like 120 speed. It goes smoothly if break is not applied. What could be the problem?

yommytino:
My Corolla steering shakes whenever I'm trying to slow down (apply brake) after like 120 speed. It goes smoothly if break is not applied. What could be the problem?

What year is your Corolla sir....

The symptoms of what going on with your vehicle is as a symptoms of bad break disck.. and pads..in which you might need too resurface the disc and change the brake pads . Or replace both sir ..

larrixauto2017:
What year is your Corolla sir....

The symptoms of what going on with your vehicle is as a symptoms of bad break disck.. and pads..in which you might need too resurface the disc and change the brake pads . Or replace both sir ..

2005 Model. What's the likely cost of disc sir?

yommytino:
My Corolla steering shakes whenever I'm trying to slow down (apply brake) after like 120 speed. It goes smoothly if break is not applied. What could be the problem?

Most times it's the brake disc, but it should be inspected by your mechanic b4 u throw parts at it. My bro using same model changed his discs not too long ago, he had the same complaint last week. Took it to his mechanic and it happened to be rust somewhere in the caliper.

yommytino:


2005 Model. What's the likely cost of disc sir?

Original OEM ₦100,000 front pair.
After market ₦55,000

We source and supply Car parts
https://www.nairaland.com/6491031/preorder-vehicle-parts-tools-much

DominusPrime:
Hi. I drive a corolla 03. Its running smoothly but the issue I have is that it makes this loud, rumbling sound when I'm doing say 50 km/h and above. My mechanic said it was the shocks. I changed all 4 yet the noise persists. I don't know if its and engine problem but the engine runs smoothly when I start the car and no issues while driving at high speeds. The sound is like a high rumbling sound. It disappears when I decelerate and comes back when I'm doing those high speeds again. Any ideas how I can go about this pls?

Please do you have a solution to this problem yet?

Good day.
Please I need help. I drive a Toyota Sienna 2006 model. Late December I drove through a very bad road which bashed the sump and thus flattened the gear filter. I wasn't aware until later in the day when my gear stopped switching gears and the car refused to move. I called my mechanic and he fixed the issue then. He straightened the sump, replaced the gear filter and oil. The car started moving but not without some underlying developments.
1. It would suddenly jerk switching gears ( especially in traffic but move smoothly on any free road or express).
2. It wasn't switching to reverse immediately and I have to go to park turn off and on the ignition before I can go into reverse gear.

The mechanic assured me that it the gears would go back to normal after a while. I've been using the car without any serious ish apart from the 2 mentioned above until
Just about 2-3 weeks ago when the gears would take so long to switch. I was practically crawling on the road then after a while it will pick up and the car would go smoothly until I get to a go slow and I've to slow down, then the process starts all over again. Surprisingly, the car started reversing gears.

My mechanic was not around so I called in another recommended by a friend.
He changed the gear filter and oil again ( my car uses a T-IV). Though when he drained the previous oil the oil was very black.
We tested the car that day and it was a smooth drive as if nothing never went wrong with the gears..only for me to take the car out the next day and I the gear was back to not shifting immediately and I started crawling again.
I called the mechanic to lay the complaint and
he said I had to buy a new gear.

Please what's the way forward for me cos the costing I've been given for the gear replacement is bank breaking for me. I don't have that type of money.


N.B. all the work done on the gear was when the gear was left to cool ( actually overnight and both mechanics worked on it the following morning)
Here's also the pic of the oil that was drained

Good day,

Please I drive a Toyota Matrix 2009 model but I have a problem of the engine shorting oil.

Mechanic claim the engine is ok and it still steam when I start it, no smoke but it short oil alot. I have tried all oil on it and even go synthetic that was written on the manual 5w 20 it's still the same result please any advice.

It came with a muscle engine and parts

tonwe:
Good day.
Please I need help. I drive a Toyota Sienna 2006 model. Late December I drove through a very bad road which bashed the sump and thus flattened the gear filter. I wasn't aware until later in the day when my gear stopped switching gears and the car refused to move. I called my mechanic and he fixed the issue then. He straightened the sump, replaced the gear filter and oil. The car started moving but not without some underlying developments.
1. It would suddenly jerk switching gears ( especially in traffic but move smoothly on any free road or express).
2. It wasn't switching to reverse immediately and I have to go to park turn off and on the ignition before I can go into reverse gear.

The mechanic assured me that it the gears would go back to normal after a while. I've been using the car without any serious ish apart from the 2 mentioned above until
Just about 2-3 weeks ago when the gears would take so long to switch. I was practically crawling on the road then after a while it will pick up and the car would go smoothly until I get to a go slow and I've to slow down, then the process starts all over again. Surprisingly, the car started reversing gears.

My mechanic was not around so I called in another recommended by a friend.
He changed the gear filter and oil again ( my car uses a T-IV). Though when he drained the previous oil the oil was very black.
We tested the car that day and it was a smooth drive as if nothing never went wrong with the gears..only for me to take the car out the next day and I the gear was back to not shifting immediately and I started crawling again.
I called the mechanic to lay the complaint and
he said I had to buy a new gear.

Please what's the way forward for me cos the costing I've been given for the gear replacement is bank breaking for me. I don't have that type of money.


N.B. all the work done on the gear was when the gear was left to cool ( actually overnight and both mechanics worked on it the following morning)
Here's also the pic of the oil that was drained

You will have to replace the transmission (gear)

personal59:
Good day,

Please I drive a Toyota Matrix 2009 model but I have a problem of the engine shorting oil.

Mechanic claim the engine is ok and it still steam when I start it, no smoke but it short oil alot. I have tried all oil on it and even go synthetic that was written on the manual 5w 20 it's still the same result please any advice.

It came with a muscle engine and parts

The engine valve cover needs to be open .. So that a mechanic can check for leaks...it could be a worn out valve oil seal

dru23:


The engine valve cover needs to be open .. So that a mechanic can check for leaks...it could be a worn out valve oil seal

Thank you

But the sump and. Base is always dry or is there other ways it lick without noticing it?

My Mech. Please my eletrican serviced my shift solenoid a and b of my baby boy only for me to discover that when engaging to reverse and drive it takes some seconds before it will engage. Will this issue clear off with time? Thanks.

DonnyE:

Please do you have a solution to this problem yet?

Not at all. The mechanic said the only solution is to buy a new gearbox

DominusPrime:


Not at all. The mechanic said the only solution is to buy a new gearbox

I don't think it is, I did a little research and I suspect it's the "rod bearing" at the piston and crankshaft..