mustaphagreens:


Are yohako cc's mostly fake? I use a 40A yohako mppt charge controller.

See the attached photo.

If the CC is truly MPPT, check the specs to see if it can take the voltages of the panels connected in series, then connect them in series. This may be the solution to your problem.

When I didn't know much about CCs, I once had a similar problem and I was corrected here and got better results.

mustaphagreens:


OMG , I will return it but I would like to confirm that the panels are without fault too. Is there a means to measure the current going into the system from the panels?

Do you have a DC clamp meter? Fluke, etc

Are they new panels?

What brand and specs?

Have you checked voltage from the panels? You should get the full voltage reading 36/38/41v if they are well positioned

mustaphagreens:


OMG , I will return it but I would like to confirm that the panels are without fault too. Is there a means to measure the current going into the system from the panels?

u may have to check your settings and read input voltage from your panels too, 30v from a supposed 350w panel is totally off. dont return the cc yet, i just researched, it looks like it has heat sink underneath and it is sold for 45k too.

gadgetplanetng:


Do you have a DC clamp meter? Fluke, etc

Are they new panels?

What brand and specs?

Have you checked voltage from the panels? You should get the full voltage reading 36/38/41v if they are well positioned

Yes, they are new panels. The max voltage from the panels is 31v (I get 28v/29v/30v/31v). I don't have a DC clamp meter but I can get one. I didn't even note the brand and it's hard to check now that they are on the roof. I will call the engineer that installed them and provide more details tomorrow.

mustaphagreens:


I never get a full charge. Is my charge controller fake?

while your charge controller may not really be the best for the job, i think you have to also look
at other factors like panel orientation, cable size and distance. all this can contribute to your issues.
besides, you didn't mention whether inverter is being used during the day simultaneously while
battery is being charged.

Valto:
u may have to check your settings and read input voltage from your panels too, 30v from a supposed 350w panel is totally off. dont return the cc yet, i just researched, it looks like it has heat sink underneath and it is sold for 45k too.

The input from the panels never exceeds 31v. Sometimes, 28v, 29v, 30v. At this point, I am just confused.

mustaphagreens:


Yes, they are new panels. The max voltage from the panels is 31v (I get 28v/29v/30v/31v). I don't have a DC clamp meter but I can get one. I didn't even note the brand and it's hard to check now that they are on the roof. I will call the engineer that installed them and provide more details tomorrow.

Check the settings of the CC, i hope its set properly..bulk should be 15v or 14.8v...float should be 13.8v...

350w panel should produce above 31v,.
Whats the Voc of the mppt cc?.
If you dont know..send a picture of the specs.it shud b on the side or manual..

Powmr cc is a tried and tested cc, someone listed it for 50k sometime ago. If you can return this ur cc.do so and get the powmr....meanwhile confirm its set properly and send the spec sheet, so we can be on same page

IYGEAL:


If the CC is truly MPPT, check the specs to see if it can take the voltages of the panels connected in series, then connect them in series. This may be the solution to your problem.

When I didn't know much about CCs, I once had a similar problem and I was corrected here and got better results.

The CC's PV max is 90v. If a series connection fixed yours, then, I will try that.

See that attached picture

mustaphagreens:


Yes, they are new panels. The max voltage from the panels is 31v (I get 28v/29v/30v/31v). I don't have a DC clamp meter but I can get one. I didn't even note the brand and it's hard to check now that they are on the roof. I will call the engineer that installed them and provide more details tomorrow.

Mine get the max voltage immediately there's a little sun so there might be an issue with position/angle.

Also the factors like wire thickness and co GeorgeD1 mentioned might also come to play.

mustaphagreens:


The CC's PV max is 90v. If a series connection fixed yours, then, I will try that.

See that attached picture

Okay. With these specs, connect them in series. That would also go a long way to complement the wiring.

Ensure you set up the parameters appropriately to suit the battery as @EarthRealm suggested.

PS. Apparently the CC allows oversizing as the two panels already exceeded the power cap for 12V battery.

earthrealm:


Check the settings of the CC, i hope its set properly..bulk should be 15v or 14.8v...float should be 13.8v...

350w panel should produce above 31v,.
Whats the Voc of the mppt cc?.
If you dont know..send a picture of the specs.it shud b on the side or manual..

Powmr cc is a tried and tested cc, someone listed it for 50k sometime ago. If you can return this ur cc.do so and get the powmr....meanwhile confirm its set properly and send the spec sheet, so we can be on same page

. There are two buttons on the CC, but I haven't quite understood their functions yet. The manual is gone but I have attached a picture that shows the spec below.

babaegun:
@All

I have about 10 units of 250 - 260W Felicity/My Home Solar Panels for sale. They are all in good working condition. I just upgraded my solar panels.

Each one is for N26k each.

If you are interested, kindly contact me on zero eight zero three, six three two, 2348.

NB: The buyer will be responsible for the transportation to its final destination.

Current Location of the Panels = Wumba, Apo, Abuja

Thank you.

Hello sir,

For how long have they being in use? Have they been removed from the roof? Can we see real pics?

60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller available
Price: 52,000 firm

60A PWM Solar Charge Controller (just 1 unit. Sales will be discontinued after this.)
Price: 10,000 firm

1000W EASun Transformerless Inverter (no charging function). Ideal for users on a budget and for keeps as rainy-day backup. Actual/Continuous power is 500w. Peak power is 1000w. Last attachment shows a test i did with the device powering a 200w yellow bulb. It powered it without breaking a sweat. Fan mad minimal noice. Better pic and even video will be provided by weekend. When my battery bank charges full, i will even run a test with 2 units of 200w yellow bulbs and update the house.
Price: 27,000

PS: Our prices and inventories/products are fixed and decided, respectively, with the budget user in mind. So we have ensured that the prices are unbeatable and provide the provides provide good value for money. If you are within Lagos, we can dispatch to you within 24 hours

Whatsapp: 09...08....3...74.86..35

mustaphagreens:


Wow. So it's the charge controller �. I will have to return it. What mppt charge controller do you recommend, pls?

If you are on a budget, i will recommend a 60A Powrmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller. One unit costs 52,000

mustaphagreens:


. There are two buttons on the CC, but I haven't quite understood their functions yet. The manual is gone but I have attached a picture that shows the spec below.

The specs show its an mppt. Budget type. 560w is max panel you shud put @ 12v. Since you have only 1 battery...most cc have allowances for exceeding the capacity..wch you are doing by loading 2 x 350w panels on it. But losses and improper orientation of the panels may keep you safe.

You need to set the cc properly, i suspect.it isnt configured properly...if you have some diy skills .you can google for the manual and set the cc properly, or worst case do a video call and have a pro guide you set the cc properly.

Lastly. Whats the distance btw cc and the panels.
What wire size was used, 6mm , 4mm...or 10mm

earthrealm:


The specs show its an mppt. Budget type. 560w is max panel you shud put @ 12v. Since you have only 1 battery...most cc have allowances for exceeding the capacity..wch you are doing by loading 2 x 350w panels on it. But losses and improper orientation of the panels may keep you safe.

You need to set the cc properly, i suspect.it isnt configured properly...if you have some diy skills .you can google for the manual and set the cc properly, or worst case do a video call and have a pro guide you set the cc properly.

Lastly. Whats the distance btw cc and the panels.
What wire size was used, 6mm , 4mm...or 10mm

The wire is 6mm. The total length is about 26 yards.

mustaphagreens:


The wire is 6mm. The total length is about 26 yards.

Wow, 26yards is about 80ft, that may be why you are seeing only 31v @ cc. An original 350w panel would hv Voc of abt 45v to 48v, so under right conditions, expect about 35v to 38v at cc end.

Try n confirm ur panel Voc,

I noticed no one has really made comment on the cable gauge vis-a-vis the distance between the charge controller and the battery and even the battery tk the inverter sef.

It appears to me that it's the same 6mm guage duo core used between the panel and the CC that is also used between the CC and the battery at such a long distance (that's like 3 ft distance between CC and battery). Also the wire between battery and inverter looks like an 8mm single.

Of course suggestions mentioned earlier by other contributors still remain valid and should be considered too in trouble shooting.

omotoda:



The true capacity of your blue carbon is actually 24v 130ah not 150 ah as advertised.The voltage difference of 0.4 is expected because the batteries have separate BMS controlling the charging profile.You need to actually let us know the run time VI's a VI's your load for us to actually advise better but be not deceived,if I remove losses and efficiency,your batteries are actually 24v 100ah usable capacity!!!

Seems someone on the internet has done this test, and it corroborates your point.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
If OP can charge the 2 packs separately with a 24v charger things may work. After getting the 2 batteries to thesame SoC, you will need to lower your max charge voltage so the battery with higher voltage does not run into error and raise your LVD so that the lower voltage battery is not overdrained. All these if your inverter has flexible config.

Best bet long term is to switch to a 24v inverter or buy 2 units 24v smart chargers so that each battery pack can charge to full as/at 24v - in this scenario you set the 48v inverter max charge voltage at a level below what the 24v chargers will be doing so that the chargers finish the charge process and not the inverter.

All in all this is a case of subpar design from the get-go. I wish the OP luck sorting this one out. For BMSs to work well in series, they will need comms between them.

Omo, I ain't about to do all these DIY shiiiii, I'll call the installer to come replace these batteries with a 48v pack and pay the difference, I guess he doesn't know how inefficient series charging them would be.

Indeed this is your best option - a full replacement with natively compatible battery.

guente02:


Omo, I ain't about to do all these DIY shiiiii, I'll call the installer to come replace these batteries with a 48v pack and pay the difference, I guess he doesn't know how inefficient series charging them would be.

guente02:


Omo, I ain't about to do all these DIY shiiiii, I'll call the installer to come replace these batteries with a 48v pack and pay the difference, I guess he doesn't know how inefficient series charging them would be.

Best option!!!!

ceaser:
I noticed no one has really made comment on the cable gauge vis-a-vis the distance between the charge controller and the battery and even the battery tk the inverter sef.

It appears to me that it's the same 6mm guage duo core used between the panel and the CC that is also used between the CC and the battery at such a long distance (that's like 3 ft distance between CC and battery). Also the wire between battery and inverter looks like an 8mm single.

Of course suggestions mentioned earlier by other contributors still remain valid and should be considered too in trouble shooting.

What should be the ideal thickness of wires from PANELS to CC and CC to the BATTERIES
And also,
What should be the best distance between the PANELS to CC and from the CC to the BATTERIES?
Thanks

mustaphagreens:


The wire is 6mm. The total length is about 26 yards.

in order not to waste resources, simply buy another 26 yards 6mm 2core and join the 2cores together and use as negative and positive then input the right settings on the CC and u are good to go..

Valto:
in order not to waste resources, simply buy another 26 yards 6mm 2core and join the 2cores together and use as negative and positive then input the right settings on the CC and u are good to go..

Thank you, Valto. I will try this.

mustaphagreens:


Thank you, Valto. I will try this.

I feel you want to waste my Adding Wire, Instead Wire in Series and use money to add two more panels..

I have same the 6mm 26 yards, There is no Voltage Drop.. with 4 270w (2s2p).. at MPPT I get 60V and VOC I get 72-77V

Also on your current setup Measure Voltage at the Panel, and at the end of controller without and without load to see if there is voltage drop or not

Dam5reey:


I feel you want to waste my Adding Wire, Instead Wire in Series and use money to add two more panels..

I have same the 6mm 26 yards, There is no Voltage Drop.. with 4 270w (2s2p).. at MPPT I get 60V and VOC I get 72-77V

Also on your current setup Measure Voltage at the Panel, and at the end of controller without and without load to see if there is voltage drop or not

My roof is very steep o, not easy to access. I had called the guys that did the installation to rectify the issue today but they couldn't make it. I don't have the devices to run these measurements right away but I should get the clamp multimeter by tomorrow, with the device I should be able to measure the current and voltage at the panels and cc.

I am looking to boost the current supplied by the panels, will a series connection not cause the current to drop instead?

mustaphagreens:


My roof is very steep o, not easy to access. I had called the guys that did the installation to rectify the issue today but they couldn't make it. I don't have the devices to run these measurements right away but I should get the clamp multimeter by tomorrow, with the device I should be able to measure the current and voltage at the panels and cc.

I am looking to boost the current supplied by the panels, will a series connection not cause the current to drop instead ?

NO @ bolded. sorry i forget since your cc is mppt,u don't need to add wire. simply series the panels. a real 350w panel should be outputing 42V to 45V

ceaser:
I noticed no one has really made comment on the cable gauge vis-a-vis the distance between the charge controller and the battery and even the battery tk the inverter sef.

It appears to me that it's the same 6mm guage duo core used between the panel and the CC that is also used between the CC and the battery at such a long distance (that's like 3 ft distance between CC and battery). Also the wire between battery and inverter looks like an 8mm single.

Of course suggestions mentioned earlier by other contributors still remain valid and should be considered too in trouble shooting.

Check the distance between the cc and battery in the attached. Let me know if they are too far apart, pls.

Valto:
NO @ bolded sorry i forget u don't really need to change , but since your cc is mppt, simply series the panels. a real 350w panel should be outputing 42V to 45V

I will try to confirm the output at the panels.

somebody02:
Good day house.
Anyone with 12v 200watts mono panel should quote me/WhatsApp. 08062500998

Just decommissioned 4, my first of panels will do a voc test this week if you are still interested.

mustaphagreens:


Check the distance between the cc and battery in the attached. Let me know if they are too far apart, pls.

What is the brand of your panels and are they new. next time buying a panel carry a voltmeter and test voc before buying. Ideally your should output be 36 to 42v, without load.
Since you have no access to the roof , test the wires coming from the panels into the cc with a voltmeter, this should tell you if your panels are okay.