litaninja:
Proper earthing is in place, SPDs are as well. Lightening arrestor on the tank tower right next to the building.

Is the SPD display still green?

Yezzir, the 2 installed are.

mctfopt:


Is the SPD display still green?

litaninja:
Yezzir, the 2 installed are.

I hope the earthing is still effective

If you are in Abeokuta,
I have 4 panels of 225w each for sale.
60a pwm charge controller
1500va 24v PSW Inverter.

If you are interested, whatsapp O813768924O

IYGEAL:


Current/Voltage Limiter is certainly less than N20k.

I understand you use Gen to make up for bad weather, insufficient storage/pv; but some people don't want anything gen whatsoever. Gen can also come handy and save the day but I'd rather manage my loads on bad weather/grid days than use gen. Our situations may be different as I don't often have my batteries depleted to the point of needing the help of gen or grid. I left grid to run in my place because I often don't use and or need it.

The OP is having a really unfortunate situation with the grid in his hood but that's not the norm.

Please I need your contact or WhatsApp number

Namzy:

Please I need your contact or WhatsApp number

.

...

I did a quick test across an outlet's terminals just to check, I'm within expected voltage levels.

mctfopt:


I hope the earthing is still effective

litaninja:
My good people. Please I need epp o.

After 2 years of constant power supply with my MPPSolar 3024GK, it developed a fault about a month ago. I've been out of town receiving alerts from my telegram bot and HomeAssistant jeje when all of a sudden 9th of June everything went silent. LOL. Apparently there was some heavy rain during the might and there may have been a power surge since some PHCN meters and DCB breakers tripped in the neighbouring flats as well.

Now my MPPsolar has a 32! error warning (manual says its a remote display communication error) and an F09 error (manual says its a soft bus start error).

Luckily, I have another 3024 planned for a separate installation (awaiting funds) sitting somewhere and I've borrowed it for the time being.

Manufacturer says to replace main board and display unit and they've sent the bill, but I will like to know if anyone can refer an actual service centre or correct technician that can handle this hybrid inverter BEFORE i commit dollars

I should be able to reach a service centre or if anyone personally can refer a technician at Arena make i breeze enter there.

Pls help oooo, I cannot become PHCN sacrifice!

9

I had similar experience during my MPP days, a board replacement was the fix, thankfully mine was still under warranty so I only paid for shipping of the Board.

litaninja:
I did a quick test across an outlets terminals just to check, I'm within expected voltage levels.

Can you elaborate on the earth test you did?

You will need a 275Vac 20/40kA SPD to be in line with your AC input/charging of the Inverter with an MCB

Also a 60-90Vdc SPD in line with your solar PV or charge controller input with an MCB

With circuit breakers closely match to your load demand as input&output protections.

With these you should be okay.

HilcomTech:
Good evening gurus,

I have a renewable energy setup comprising
1) 1.5KVA Inverter
2) 2KW solar panels
3) 12 number 2V batteries
4) PWM charge controller.

The system has been working fine with no issues but I am a bit worried as there is absolutely no protection like circuit breakers or lightening arestors on the system.

Please what kind of protection should I install to protect my setup.

Sure.

L - N --> voltage reading 1
L - E --> voltage reading 2
N - E --> voltage reading 3

(voltage reading 2 - voltage reading 1) + voltage reading 3 = 1.7v
I believe this falls in the expected range of 0 - 2v?

mctfopt:


Can you elaborate on the earth test you did?

What you really tested below is how your facility wiring was done whether it is up to code or not.

A proper earth effectiveness test requires you to isolate the earth electrode (rod) and test the resistance with a earth megger/tester - I look for resistance 5 Ohms or less but a residence can get by with something as bad as 100 Ohms.

In practice, what we do is not bother the earth rods at all but rather remove the main earth cable from DB or earth bus bar and test backwards from there - we connect the earth rod side of the tester to the exposed earth cable and the other two test legs to the test spikes and run the resistance test - with this scheme you are able to test the effective resistance of the total earth system from facility earth cable all the way back to the buried rods.

litaninja:
Sure.

L - N --> voltage reading 1
L - E --> voltage reading 2
N - E --> voltage reading 3

(voltage reading 2 - voltage reading 1) + voltage reading 3 = 1.7v
I believe this falls in the expected range of 0 - 2v?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
What you really tested below is how your facility wiring was done whether it is up to code or not.

A proper earth effectiveness test requires you to isolate the earth electrode (rod) and test the resistance with a earth megger/tester - I look for resistance 5 Ohms or less but a residence can get by with something as bad as 100 Ohms.

In practice, what we do is not bother the earth rods at all but rather remove the main earth cable from DB or earth bus bar and test backwards from there - we connect the earth rod side of the tester to the exposed earth cable and the other two test legs to the test spikes and run the resistance test - with this scheme you are able to test the effective resistance of the total earth system from facility earth cable all the way back to the buried rods.

But won't his test translate to a good earth?

litaninja:
Proper earthing is in place, SPDs are as well. Lightening arrestor on the tank tower right next to the building.

WHAT TOOL did you use to arrive at this classification of the earthing?

poor earthing is the prime suspect in this scenario, since you say the spd is still green. i believe you have spd for dc and AC side??

Not in any way.

That test is much more like an electrical isolation integrity or wire polarity test - the integrity or sufficiency of the actual earth installation was not tested at all.

The results he got could be reproduced with a floating earth wire or a very very poor earth installation.

The proper way to test an earth install is use a dedicated meter to perform a resistance test of the earth electrode(s) - I like to test backwards from the main earth wire of the facility - the (typically) 16mm2 wire that goes from the buried rods into the DB or earth bus bar.

Namzy:

But won't his test translate to a good earth?

litaninja:
Sure.

L - N --> voltage reading 1
L - E --> voltage reading 2
N - E --> voltage reading 3

(voltage reading 2 - voltage reading 1) + voltage reading 3 = 1.7v
I believe this falls in the expected range of 0 - 2v?

The person above has beaten me to what I would've said

In addition you can run a lamp test, that is place an incandescent bulb across L and E with your meter in place. The voltage reading should be the same with the bulb on live and neutral.

But the best test remains using the earth tester.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Not in any way.

That test is much more like an electrical isolation integrity or wire polarity test - the integrity or sufficiency of the actual earth installation was not tested at all.

The results he got could be reproduced with a floating earth wire or a very very poor earth installation.

The proper way to test an earth install is use a dedicated meter to perform a resistance test of the earth electrode(s) - I like to test backwards from the main earth wire of the facility - the (typically) 16mm2 wire that goes from the buried rods into the DB or earth bus bar.

What about a socket tester?

mctfopt NiyiOmoIyunade earthrealm

Thanks for the input / suggestions.

I haven't seen an actual incandescent bulb in a while , but would try to find one during the week and run the lamp test.

For the resistance test suggested by NiyiOmoIyunade, I'd need to find some time and the meter to carry out that test later on. Plus no be me get house, na baba landlord house, I'd need to start digging some concrete floors, e.t.c.

Chai.

mctfopt:


The person above has beaten me to what I would've said

In addition you can run a lamp test, that is place an incandescent bulb across L and E with your meter in place. The voltage reading should be the same with the bulb on live and neutral.

But the best test remains using the earth tester.

Regular Meter readings. But also got the suggestion to ran a lamp test with a meter inline which I'll carry out during the week.
Yes, I have SPDs on the AC and DC sides.

earthrealm:


WHAT TOOL did you use to arrive at this classification of the earthing?

poor earthing is the prime suspect in this scenario, since you say the spd is still green. i believe you have spd for dc and AC side??

litaninja:
mctfopt NiyiOmoIyunade earthrealm

Thanks for the input / suggestions.

I haven't seen an actual incandescent bulb in a while , but would try to find one during the week and run the lamp test.

For the resistance test suggested by NiyiOmoIyunade, I'd need to find some time and the meter to carry out that test later on. Plus no be me get house, na baba landlord house, I'd need to start digging some concrete floors, e.t.c.

Chai.

shud be easier doing a new dedicated earthing for yourself..ie if landlord has no isssh

I'd have to get the permission from him and that would also entail breaking up the concrete flooring of the compound as every single inch of ground is covered

earthrealm:


shud be easier doing a new dedicated earthing for yourself..ie if landlord has no isssh

No you do not need to dig up or disrupt anything.

The way the tester works it has 3 wires - if you look at my picture the green wire clamps to your earth rod, while the yellow and red wires go to two test spikes that come with the test meter (you drive the spikes into the ground at certain distances from the main earth rod being tested)

For your purpose simply take the main earth wire that serves your house or flat and assume that is your earth rod and attach the tester to it then go outside to bury the other short test spikes - a flower bed or such is a good place to use worst case.

You need to disconnect the earth wire and keep it isolated while doing this test - you can easily use a long 2.5mm cable to reach from outside where you will do the test to inside where your earth wire probably rests

litaninja:
mctfopt NiyiOmoIyunade earthrealm

Thanks for the input / suggestions.

I haven't seen an actual incandescent bulb in a while , but would try to find one during the week and run the lamp test.

For the resistance test suggested by NiyiOmoIyunade, I'd need to find some time and the meter to carry out that test later on. Plus no be me get house, na baba landlord house, I'd need to start digging some concrete floors, e.t.c.

Chai.

Hmmm, noted.
I'll make out the time to test that. In addition, is there anyway to test or determine if an SPD is faulty?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
No you do not need to dig up or disrupt anything.

The way the tester works it has 3 wires - if you look at my picture the green wire clamps to your earth rod, while the yellow and red wires go to two test spikes that come with the test meter (you drive the spikes into the ground at certain distances from the main earth rod being tested)

For your purpose simply take the main earth wire that serves your house or flat and assume that is your earth rod and attach the tester to it then go outside to bury the other short test spikes - a flower bed or such is a good place to use worst case.

You need to disconnect the earth wire and keep it isolated while doing this test - you can easily use a long 2.5mm cable to reach from outside where you will do the test to inside where your earth wire probably rests

The way the utility provider does earthing in naija, the transformer neutral and earth rod may be bonded at the transformer.

An electrician may further bond your neutral and earth busbar inside your DB to escape doing a proper earth or 'solve' an earth leakage problem - if you are in this situation then the bulb tests e.t.c will fail.

litaninja:
Regular Meter readings. But also got the suggestion to ran a lamp test with a meter inline which I'll carry out during the week.
Yes, I have SPDs on the AC and DC sides.

Please my friend wants to know if it's possible to add LFP to his existing setup.
He has about 3kw pv hooked on 48v 3.5kva Felicity and CC with 11kwh LA.
Now, he wants to introduce Lfp into the system as an additional bank. The same pv and Inverter/cc will service the two battery bank (LA and LFP)
If LA bank takes care of this night, LFP bank will take care of another night.
Is just a matter of change over to a preferred bank.

I can confirm neutral & earth are not bonded at the premises.

Can't say the same for the transformer though.

I'll do what I can about the tests suggested earlier as well.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The way the utility provider does earthing in naija, the transformer neutral and earth rod may be bonded at the transformer.

An electrician may further bond your neutral and earth busbar inside your DB to escape doing a proper earth or 'solve' an earth leakage problem - if you are in this situation then the bulb tests e.t.c will fail.

Big question:

Should I run an AVR from the output of the inverter? So that my load is not directly connected to the inverter but indirectly connected to the inverter through the AVR?

Is this acceptable practice?

FEGEITOK:
Big question:

Should I run an AVR from the output of the inverter? So that my load is not directly connected to the inverter but indirectly connected to the inverter through the AVR?

Is this acceptable practice?

what do you hope to achieve by this/
inverter output is stable..avr iisnt needed, perhaps if you explain why u think u need an avr, then we can advice you better

isangjohnson:
Please my friend wants to know if it's possible to add LFP to his existing setup.
He has about 3kw pv hooked on 48v 3.5kva Felicity and CC with 11kwh LA.
Now, he wants to introduce Lfp into the system as an additional bank. The same pv and Inverter/cc will service the two battery bank (LA and LFP)
If LA bank takes care of this night, LFP bank will take care of another night.
Is just a matter of change over to a preferred bank.

what u ask is doable. but for advanced users and alot of failsafe measures are needed to pull this off. so the simple answer to you, being a basic user is No
dont do it..manage ur leadacid bank till it dies, then u switch to lithium. or decommision the leadacid battery....n go lithium fully

earthrealm:


what do you hope to achieve by this/
inverter output is stable..avr iisnt needed, perhaps if you explain why u think u need an avr, then we can advice you better

My inverter has 2 modes ECO and UPS.

ECO Mains high cut 290V +/- 10V
ECO Mains high cut recovery 280V +/- 10V
ECO Mains low cut 100V +/- 10V
ECO Mains low cut recovery 110V +/- 10V

ECO takes longer to discharge but has a range that hits 290 Volts

UPS discharges faster but has a safer range of not more than 265 Volts

UPS Mains high cut 265V +/- 10V
UPS Mains high cut recovery 255V +/- 10V
UPS Mains low cut 180V +/- 10V
UPS Mains low cut recovery 190V +/- 10V

Says to use UPS mode to run computers/sensitive equipment.

Says not to use ECO mode to run computers.

I am running computers on the inverter, but I don't wish to fry them.

ECO mode is the default mode.

I want to take advantage of the ECO mode but limit the risk to my equipment.

FEGEITOK:


My inverter has 2 modes ECO and UPS.

ECO Mains high cut 290V +/- 10V
ECO Mains high cut recovery 280V +/- 10V
ECO Mains low cut 100V +/- 10V
ECO Mains low cut recovery 110V +/- 10V

ECO takes longer to discharge but has a range that hits 290 Volts

UPS discharges faster but has a safer range of not more than 265 Volts

UPS Mains high cut 265V +/- 10V
UPS Mains high cut recovery 255V +/- 10V
UPS Mains low cut 180V +/- 10V
UPS Mains low cut recovery 190V +/- 10V

Says to use UPS mode to run computers/sensitive equipment.

Says not to use ECO mode to run computers.

I am running computers on the inverter, but I don't wish to fry them.

ECO mode is the default mode.

I want to take advantage of the ECO mode but limit the risk to my equipment.

What is the make and model of this inverter?.
No normal inverter outputs these above normal voltages, i wud even be wary of exposing my electronics to 265volts, not to talk of 290volts
I think these voltages are input voltages, not output.

You should use a dmm and measure the output of the inverter to be sure of these output voltages you posted