spininaroundsun:
Dear All,

I would like to confirm if this is an original Honda ATF before I buy it.

Help me please..

Knock-off

Hondajosh:


Knock-off

Thanks bro. you just saved a soul!

Kindly assist with the followings:

1. Any Idea where can I get the original "Honda ATF DW1" and cost in Lagos.
2. Alternative ATF that is also good that I can buy - car is EOD, 4 cyl.

Apologies for the troubles.

Conner44:


No, don’t get another vtc solenoid yet. You already changed it so assuming you bought a good replacement then perform this test instead for the meantime to rule out any oil pressure related fault with the system.

Sometimes the filter screens for the vtc and vtec solenoids get clogged/blocked or degraded and need to be cleaned or changed. The non oem replacements we sometimes buy have a weird type of mesh in it’s own filter that can trigger this code too. So I want you to bring out the both of them from your engine and run your engine without them for a day and see if the code clears.

The positions of these 2 filters are in the first picture.

The type of filters to remove (or clean if dirty) are in the 1st picture too

The vtc solenoid strainer/filter is in the 2nd picture (it’s position on your engine is directly behind the power steering pump and below the valve cover. Small Rectangular looking shape with two 10mm bolts.

The second filter/strainer is behind the vtec solenoid 3rd pic (top back of the engine, directly above the engine oil filter and below the valve cover). 3 10mm bolts. The back of the vtec solenoid looks like the 4th pic as well.

Remove both units and take out the filters then replace the units and test the vehicle to see if the code still remains. Sometimes the little things cause the most headaches

Okay thank you, will try to remove the filters inside and drive without them. Because I have also cleaned all those filters before and install them back yet the issue was the same.

Burchester:


Okay thank you, will try to remove the filters inside and drive without them. Because I have also cleaned all those filters before and install them back yet the issue was the same.

Yes, try to drive without those filters for a bit and see if there will be any changes.

Burchester:


Thank you, Yes I have been having this code since. And do you mean I should get Another VTC solenoid as in the picture below. And no I haven’t been running the engine on low oil. I am using 5w30. So now the only options are get another solenoid or timing chain or tensioner/adjuster ?

You can test for the vtc solenoid using an advanced scan tool.

Namzy:


You can test for the vtc solenoid using an advanced scan tool.

Thank you. Will try doing that, what is the name of the scanner and application name ?

spininaroundsun:


Thanks bro. you just saved a soul!

Kindly assist with the followings:

1. Any Idea where can I get the original "Honda ATF DW1" and cost in Lagos.
2. Alternative ATF that is also good that I can buy - car is EOD, 4 cyl.

Apologies for the troubles.

Get the original dw1 from luvinhubby. You can tag him as he is in this group. Also I won't advice anything else but the original

I got a new transmission for my Honda Accord exactly a year ago and it was working and shifting fine till the day I took my car to the mechanic for them to work on my injector mouth,I noticed immediately I left the mechanic my car transmission started shifting at 3rpm when normally it shifts to the next gear between 1.5rpm to 2rpm.please help as this is giving me a serious concern.

Lascode:
I got a new transmission for my Honda Accord exactly a year ago and it was working and shifting fine till the day I took my car to the mechanic for them to work on my injector mouth,I noticed immediately I left the mechanic my car transmission started shifting at 3rpm when normally it shifts to the next gear between 1.5rpm to 2rpm.please help as this is giving me a serious concern.

Is your gear driving smoothly?
Any jerk?

It’s driving smoothly with no jerks,the only issue is the fact that it has to get 3rpm to shift.

Burchester:


Thank you. Will try doing that, what is the name of the scanner and application name ?

Any advanced scanner will do

Lascode:
I got a new transmission for my Honda Accord exactly a year ago and it was working and shifting fine till the day I took my car to the mechanic for them to work on my injector mouth,I noticed immediately I left the mechanic my car transmission started shifting at 3rpm when normally it shifts to the next gear between 1.5rpm to 2rpm.please help as this is giving me a serious concern.

The throttle position sensor was tampered with or the setting was wrong

Lascode:
It’s driving smoothly with no jerks,the only issue is the fact that it has to get 3rpm to shift.

What is the rpm when idling ?

luvinhubby:


The throttle position sensor was tampered with or the setting was wrong

Please how can this be corrected or do u know anyone in Lagos that can help me with it?

Dozieson:


What is the rpm when idling ?

The rpm is around 1 while like almost below it but not above it

Lascode:
I got a new transmission for my Honda Accord exactly a year ago and it was working and shifting fine till the day I took my car to the mechanic for them to work on my injector mouth,I noticed immediately I left the mechanic my car transmission started shifting at 3rpm when normally it shifts to the next gear between 1.5rpm to 2rpm.please help as this is giving me a serious concern.

Was there any change to your idle speed before and after the job was done? I’m suspecting a vacuum leak or as someone said above your tps has been disturbed

Conner44:


Was there any change to your idle speed before and after the job was done? I’m suspecting a vacuum leak or as someone said above your tps has been disturbed

Yes there was a change to the idle speed coz before the idle speed was high and fluctuating.

Lascode:

Yes there was a change to the idle speed coz before the idle speed was high and fluctuating.

Okay good. Now we are getting somewhere.

Look, when next you’re seeking advice concerning an issue with your vehicle after visiting your mechanic please always remember to include any faults you were having before you went to the same mechanic for a fix as this will enable others have a timeline of events that might have led to your current situation.

Now, try to answer the questions below to the best of your knowledge

1. How did the the issue of the idle speed fluctuating begin earlier before the mechanic’s visit, was it sudden? Or was there any incident that occurred before it started happening

2. Did your mechanic tell you to buy any type of parts while he was servicing your throttle body? Did you change anything at all?

3. Do you have your check engine light on? If yes, get a scan and post codes.

4. What year is your vehicle and what type of engine is in it?

Conner44:


Okay good. Now we are getting somewhere.

Look, when next you’re seeking advice concerning an issue with your vehicle after visiting your mechanic please always remember to include any faults you were having before you went to the same mechanic for a fix as this will enable others have a timeline of events that might have led to your current situation.

Now, try to answer the questions below to the best of your knowledge

1. How did the the issue of the idle speed fluctuating begin earlier before the mechanic’s visit, was it sudden? Or was there any incident that occurred before it started happening

2. Did your mechanic tell you to buy any type of parts while he was servicing your throttle body? Did you change anything at all?

3. Do you have your check engine light on? If yes, get a scan and post codes.

4. What year is your vehicle and what type of engine is in it?

The fluctuating in the idle speed started all of a sudden though the injector mouth was showing signs of issues before then coz the idle speed of the car gets very high most times even wen ur leg is not on the throttle.
The mechanic only took out the injector mouth and worked on it,I think he did some adjustments on it,
The car is a 2004 EOd Honda with 4 plugs enginr

luvinhubby:
Check your power steering oil containers, it's often neglected by car owners & technicians. When dirty, it pushes dirt into the pump causing damage and failure.
More tips coming.

Do you have radiator coolant for civic 2010 and how much is it?

bobkezel:

Can this scanner be used to scan old models?

Yes it can. Cars from 1996 till date are compatible

Lascode:

The fluctuating in the idle speed started all of a sudden though the injector mouth was showing signs of issues before then coz the idle speed of the car gets very high most times even wen ur leg is not on the throttle.

Assuming the high idle speed was steady before you took it to the mechanic I’d have said ii was a vacuum leak. But since you say it was fluctuating then maybe your throttle mouth was dirty and needed cleaning OR your idle air control valve was bad.

If your iacv was actually bad (or your mechanic has now mistakenly damaged it by drenching it with carb cleaner) you would have to buy a new one OR your mechanic would delete your iacv by adjusting the throttle body in many ways.

once the iacv is bad, the idle speed will be unstable but once the iacv is deleted then the idle speed will be set by the mechanic manually who will then determine how ‘high’ the engine will idle and this will definitely affect how the transmission changes it’s gears.

The mechanic only took out the injector mouth and worked on it,I think he did some adjustments on it,
The car is a 2004 EOd Honda with 4 plugs enginr

When doing regular maintenance in your vehicles throttle body, you should never take it off the engine or adjust it in any way because the throttle body has 2 sensors that work with the brainbox to determine how the engine and gearbox runs.

There are 4 places your mechanic might have manipulated on that your throttle body while adjusting it that will make me straight up advise you to get another one that you’re sure has never been tampered with or adjusted in any way before.

So, in essence what I’m trying to say, is that your mechanic has now sidelined your brainbox and by the powers vested in him by Honda bestowed your vehicle with its own unique engine rpm and set it to the value you’re enjoying presently.

So far the rpm is at that speed and it isn’t because of a vacuum leak then your gearbox will never run as it used to UNLESS you can tell your mechanic to revert all the changes he made and begin afresh to check the throttle body components OR you buy another good throttle body

Next time you’re servicing your vehicle and your mechanic is hovering around your throttle body be vigilant especially when they’re using carb cleaner to spray inside the injector mouth hole. If too much liquid gets into the hole and down to the iacv it can damage it. Also If he has disabled your iacv he would have deliberately blocked this same small hole with nylon or paper, You can verify this one by yourself.

Plus there’s a tiny screw to the bottom right of that hole on the throttle body, you see that screw, it is the last thing anybody should touch on that throttle body.

So when next you have an opportunity just drive up to the garage, open the bonnet, call your mechanic and say something like this;

YOU : kamoru come oh, see this screw you turn for the injector mouth that last time I come ehn. . . Be like say you no set am well oh. Try do am again make the engine come down low e hear? The sound too high abeg

And if you hear something like;

MUSHIBAU : oh oga na small thing. I go set am well now now, why you no talk say e highly since. Wait make I go find my SCREW DRIVER

then you are free to shout;

YOU :

How you want take set am back? You sabi use multimeter ? Scanner nko? You sabi the factory specifications of the throttle position sensor?

Kai! Mushibau you done finish me where I wan come see N25k to buy new injector mouth now

Bottom line = buy new injector mouth or tell the mechanic to adjust that same one until he miraculously gets it right.

AutosAbuja:

Do you have radiator coolant for civic 2010 and how much is it?

Honda Type 2 is available

Good evening.
I wanted to go out this evening and I discovered that my car jerked when I put in on D. It doesn't jerk on R and other gears. Then I discovered that the throttle works only once and stop working when it's on other gears except P.
No slightest issues before now. The gear selects and moves well. No sound, no jerk, nothing nothing. It was very smooth.
Do I need to change the gear box?
The car is civic 010. 5t 4. I 4
@Conner44, luvinhubby and other gurus

Functionoftime:
Good evening.
I wanted to go out this evening and I discovered that my car jerked when I put in on D. It doesn't jerk on R and other gears. Then I discovered that the throttle works only once and stop working when it's on other gears except P.
No slightest issues before now. The gear selects and moves well. No sound, no jerk, nothing nothing. It was very smooth.
Do I need to change the gear box?
The car is civic 010. 5t 4. I 4
@Conner44, luvinhubby and other gurus

Has your transmission indicator green ‘D’ light on your instrument cluster ever blinked or flashed before? Is your check engine light on?

Try to get a proper scan of your vehicle before you think of changing anything

Conner44:


Assuming the high idle speed was steady before you took it to the mechanic I’d have said ii was a vacuum leak. But since you say it was fluctuating then maybe your throttle mouth was dirty and needed cleaning OR your idle air control valve was bad.

If your iacv was actually bad (or your mechanic has now mistakenly damaged it by drenching it with carb cleaner) you would have to buy a new one OR your mechanic would delete your iacv by adjusting the throttle body in many ways.

once the iacv is bad, the idle speed will be unstable but once the iacv is deleted then the idle speed will be set by the mechanic manually who will then determine how ‘high’ the engine will idle and this will definitely affect how the transmission changes it’s gears.



When doing regular maintenance in your vehicles throttle body, you should never take it off the engine or adjust it in any way because the throttle body has 2 sensors that work with the brainbox to determine how the engine and gearbox runs.

There are 4 places your mechanic might have manipulated on that your throttle body while adjusting it that will make me straight up advise you to get another one that you’re sure has never been tampered with or adjusted in any way before.

So, in essence what I’m trying to say, is that your mechanic has now sidelined your brainbox and by the powers vested in him by Honda bestowed your vehicle with its own unique engine rpm and set it to the value you’re enjoying presently.

So far the rpm is at that speed and it isn’t because of a vacuum leak then your gearbox will never run as it used to UNLESS you can tell your mechanic to revert all the changes he made and begin afresh to check the throttle body components OR you buy another good throttle body

Next time you’re servicing your vehicle and your mechanic is hovering around your throttle body be vigilant especially when they’re using carb cleaner to spray inside the injector mouth hole. If too much liquid gets into the hole and down to the iacv it can damage it. Also If he has disabled your iacv he would have deliberately blocked this same small hole with nylon or paper, You can verify this one by yourself.

Plus there’s a tiny screw to the bottom right of that hole on the throttle body, you see that screw, it is the last thing anybody should touch on that throttle body.

So when next you have an opportunity just drive up to the garage, open the bonnet, call your mechanic and say something like this;

YOU : kamoru come oh, see this screw you turn for the injector mouth that last time I come ehn. . . Be like say you no set am well oh. Try do am again make the engine come down low e hear? The sound too high abeg

And if you hear something like;

MUSHIBAU : oh oga na small thing. I go set am well now now, why you no talk say e highly since. Wait make I go find my SCREW DRIVER

then you are free to shout;

YOU :

How you want take set am back? You sabi use multimeter ? Scanner nko? You sabi the factory specifications of the throttle position sensor?

Kai! Mushibau you done finish me where I wan come see N25k to buy new injector mouth now

Bottom line = buy new injector mouth or tell the mechanic to adjust that same one until he miraculously gets it right.

Thank u so much for taking ur time to explain so much to me,I really appreciate.I just bought a new injector mouth today but it hasn’t still solved the problem,don’t know if u can recommend any other thing I can do coz the gear engages smoothly,it’s just that it requires the rpm to get to about 3rpm before changing the next gear.

Conner44:


Has your transmission indicator green ‘D’ light on your instrument cluster ever blinked or flashed before? Is your check engine light on?

Try to get a proper scan of your vehicle before you think of changing anything

It has never blinked or flashed before. Check engine light is not on.
Hope I'll be able to bring the scanning machine home because there's no way I can take it out for proper scanning

Lascode:

Thank u so much for taking ur time to explain so much to me,I really appreciate.I just bought a new injector mouth today but it hasn’t still solved the problem,don’t know if u can recommend any other thing I can do coz the gear engages smoothly,it’s just that it requires the rpm to get to about 3rpm before changing the next gear.

It’s good you’ve done yourself a favor and bought the new injector mouth.

But what about the scan you have been told to do? Now is the time for the brainbox of your vehicle to tell you it’s problem so you can know what to fix. If you take it to someone who tries luck again you might need to unnecessarily waste money replacing working parts.

Get a scan

Functionoftime:


It has never blinked or flashed before. Check engine light is not on.
Hope I'll be able to bring the scanning machine home because there's no way I can take it out for proper scanning

When last did you change the gearbox oil? That is the next thing to do if you checked and it’s still gauged properly.

What was the last maintenance job you performed on the vehicle?

Conner44:


When last did you change the gearbox oil? That is the next thing to do if you checked and it’s still gauged properly.

What was the last maintenance job you performed on the vehicle?

The check engine light is on, I had to use google to know the sign. I just got it few weeks back. My first time of having a car. I'll need to ask the previous owner on the maintenance timeline.
The check engine light has been there since day 1 and the mechanic I took along to buy it didn't even know.

Functionoftime:


The check engine light is on, I had to use google to know the sign. I just got it few weeks back. My first time of having a car. I'll need to ask the previous owner on the maintenance timeline.
The check engine light has been there since day 1 and the mechanic I took along to buy it didn't even know.

Okay. Ask the previous owner if he had ever replaced the gearbox oil and when last he changed it. Also ask him the exact type of oil he used, if he used the wrong type you’d need to change it out asap to save the gearbox.

Also since your check engine light is on you will need to find a way to scan the vehicle. That’s the only way you can know exactly what is wrong with it.

Conner44:


It’s good you’ve done yourself a favor and bought the new injector mouth.

But what about the scan you have been told to do? Now is the time for the brainbox of your vehicle to tell you it’s problem so you can know what to fix. If you take it to someone who tries luck again you might need to unnecessarily waste money replacing working parts.

Get a scan

Ok thank u,I’m gonna get it scanned and post the error code