seunoj:


Bros, u do a lot more beyond ffg manufacturer recommendation
1. Know your car
2. Get involved in the fixing (don't pack at mech n go to sleep. Even if u do ask questions on the fault n fix.
3. Buy oem part
4. DIY etc.

Only few pple can do this. Ordinary syn oil n coolant(30-40k), men go japaa

Great.

In my summary, if you know what the manufacturer recommends, even if you can't keep up, you will try your best unlike the kazeems who totally go against the manufacturer.

If the manufacturer says to use synthetic 5w20 and your engine burns oil, you will know better what downgrade to go for, that will not be detrimental to the reminder of the engine's life.

DIY is not for everyone, it's for those who know what what they are doing and know their limits. DIYers are not born, they discover themselves, the key is knowledge

adanny01:


Never use non recommended ATF.

I seriously wish I knew this earlier before I used one ATF like that on my EOD. Now my gear is misbehaving

My i4 2007 accord does not start at first attempt, usually after sitting idle for 6-10 hours. It starts only at second or third attempt. The OBD scan shows Oxygen bank 1 sensor error.

Could that be the problem? I read that a faulty 02 sensor would not affect startup. What do you think?

EDGEof2MORO:
My i4 2007 accord does not start at first attempt, usually after sitting idle for 6-10 hours. It starts only at second or third attempt. The OBD scan shows Oxygen bank 1 sensor error.

Could that be the problem? I read that a faulty 02 sensor would not affect startup. What do you think?

That could be fuel pressure related.

Your fuel pressure regulator is responsible for keeping pressure in the fuel line even after the car has not been started for a long time. That pressure it holds on the line enables the car to start instantly at the next start otherwise the fuel pump needs to build pressure before the engine will run.

So your 1st kick was just for the pump to build pressure. It is located in the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank.

Good day Piyke.

I did remember watching a video of yours doing an Electronic Load Detector ELD job.

I am having the issue currently and mine is horrific. It has left me stranded several times. I thought I had a dead battery but if I charge outside the car the battery holds good charge only to become weak days later.

It was just yesterday I discovered during live scan that at idle I have 13.9-14.5vdc but while driving it drops to 12.4-12.7vdc and 11.9vdc with full lights and high sound system volume. It means I drive on batteries and idle on alternator except when AC is on. So if I don't have enough idle time, my battery will be depleted and can't start the car. It has happened randomly more than 5times. I left the car for 4months and it started at once but when I drove out, the battery went flat.

What was your result? Is changing the ELD unit only a viable option?

adanny01:
Good day Piyke.

I did remember watching a video of yours doing an Electronic Load Detector ELD job.

I am having the issue currently and mine is horrific. It has left me stranded several times. I thought I had a dead battery but if I charge outside the car the battery holds good charge only to become weak days later.

It was just yesterday I discovered during live scan that at idle I have 13.9-14.5vdc but while driving it drops to 12.4-12.7vdc and 11.9vdc with full lights and high sound system volume. It means I drive on batteries and idle on alternator except when AC is on. So if I don't have enough idle time, my battery will be depleted and can't start the car. It has happened randomly more than 5times. I left the car for 4months and it started at once but when I drove out, the battery went flat.

What was your result? Is changing the ELD unit only a viable option?

Hi adanny01,

Sorry for the late reply... Been off NL for a bit.

You are correct, I did do a video https://youtu.be/tMh9tbo4Ee8 that showed how to replace the ELD although the objective of the video was to fix a high beam light that wouldn't turn off. (Disclaimer: @all - this is one of my older videos that I am not so proud of the videography , you should check my newer videos before you judge me ). This was done by replacing the logic board in the non-serviceable part of the engine fuse box. You will encounter the ELD in the course of this procedure. I did not change mine.
Now, 2 questions as this could be a failing ELD or alternator. Do you have a CEL with an ELD related code? Also, does the battery circuit warning indicator come on at all? If it does, does it flicker or stay steady. If flickering, I would be leaning more towards an ELD. Steady, I guess more of an alternator that is unable to switch into high gear since you say it supplies 14vdc approx at idle.

Assuming things are pointing to the ELD, that should be the cheaper option to replace. In my case I got the used, skeletal engine fuse box for; I think N2,500. All useful components were already gone: fuses, relays etc save the ELD and logic board.

Happy to see how this pans out. Let me know.

Piyke:


Hi adanny01,

Sorry for the late reply... Been off NL for a bit.

You are correct, I did do a video https://youtu.be/tMh9tbo4Ee8 that showed how to replace the ELD although the objective of the video was to fix a high beam light that wouldn't turn off. (Disclaimer: @all - this is one of my older videos that I am not so proud of the videography , you should check my newer videos before you judge me ). This was done by replacing the logic board in the non-serviceable part of the engine fuse box. You will encounter the ELD in the course of this procedure. I did not change mine.
Now, 2 questions as this could be a failing ELD or alternator. Do you have a CEL with an ELD related code? Also, does the battery circuit warning indicator come on at all? If it does, does it flicker or stay steady. If flickering, I would be leaning more towards an ELD. Steady, I guess more of an alternator that is unable to switch into high gear since you say it supplies 14vdc approx at idle.

Assuming things are pointing to the ELD, that should be the cheaper option to replace. In my case I got the used, skeletal engine fuse box for; I think N2,500. All useful components were already gone: fuses, relays etc save the ELD and logic board.

Happy to see how this pans out. Let me know.

Upon further research and diagnosis, I zeroed on ELD and will get it when I can.

From what I read, the ECU controls the alternator when to give full power (14v or above) or low Power (12.6v). Since the alternator is able to deliver 14v when demanded, it means it's in good condition.

The ELD is responsible for detecting high current draw then outputs a signal to the ECU which toggles the alternator low or high. 2 things are very prominent for high current draw, headlight and power windows. I checked and the headlight doesn't trigger high alternator output so I can safely conclude that the ELD is not responding to current draw like it should have.

I did understand that other triggers for high alternator power is the fan blower motor but this is direct from the fan switch to ECU, so the switch triggers the high alternator power. The conditions for low alternator power are a combination of temperature 75°C and above, speed 10-45mph, RPM lower than 3000, current draw less than 15a, during starting, AC off etc

I will source the ELD when I can. For now, I make sure I idle the car car without gear frequently. I have noticed the battery is not getting weak like before.

adanny01:


That could be fuel pressure related.

Your fuel pressure regulator is responsible for keeping pressure in the fuel line even after the car has not been started for a long time. That pressure it holds on the line enables the car to start instantly at the next start otherwise the fuel pump needs to build pressure before the engine will run.

So your 1st kick was just for the pump to build pressure. It is located in the fuel sending unit in the fuel tank.

You won't believe the problem if I tell you. It was the battery

Piyke:


Only lower ball joint change. Put in chinko while waiting for OEM to be delivered. Once OEM landed replaced immediately. This was 5 years ago.

No transmission repair or rebuild. Only ATF/filter changes.

Is their a filter for the Atf as well?

dicksonadams:

Is their a filter for the Atf as well?

Yes, there exist transmission oil filter.

Piyke:


Only lower ball joint change. Put in chinko while waiting for OEM to be delivered. Once OEM landed replaced immediately. This was 5 years ago.

No transmission repair or rebuild. Only ATF/filter changes.

Whats the price of the OEM today please?

RuneKingThor:

Whats the price of the OEM today please?

I don't recall but you can check here: hondapartsnow.com

Piyke:


I don't recall but you can check here: hondapartsnow.com

Thank you sir