Good morning DIYs,

Please, whats the best lead acid flooded battery for best value, good quality and at good price.
Thanks

zombie apocalypse ready, fast unlimited internet, followed by 15kwh battery.
brought my xbox series x to this site to download a game and boy see the speed.
i downloaded fifa 23 63gb , ghost recon wildlands , 60+ gb , then microsoft flight simulator 130GB all under a few hours

Israelicc:
make the guy check whether na warranty or guarantee them tell am o because my people can use both words interchangeably.

lolz, any of them...no one will listen to him after 6 months, they will simply toss you around, and if your wahala too much, they will repackage another used/returned battery and give you...you may be lucky that one may be slightly better or worse, you insist again..they either blow you away..or clean up the original battery you returned , repackage it and give you again...........luck + persistence plays a role in all these.

with what I know about leadacid batteries, user ignorance and carelessness..............b4 I give you warranty, there must be 247 cctv video feed of the battery, usage logs of the load you put it and your charge & discharge pattern.

you cant have 2 or 4 pieces of flooded battery and put 1.5hp sumo or AC on it,, or not recharge properly and come crying warranty if the battery fails within 6 months

Godliftedme:
Good morning DIYs,

Please, whats the best lead acid flooded battery for best value, good quality and at good price.
Thanks

best - rolls/surrete battery

2nd best - trojan battery

3rd best - battleborn, if you can get your hands on their flooded series.

my advice for you is go L*******
mek i off my mic, b4 fla fanboys will come for my head

earthrealm:


best - rolls/surrete battery

2nd best - trojan battery

3rd best - battleborn, if you can get your hands on their flooded series.

my advice for you is go L*******
mek i off my mic, b4 fla fanboys will come for my head

Thanks, these will be high end batteries, are there medium cost with good value

earthrealm:


best - rolls/surrete battery

2nd best - trojan battery

3rd best - battleborn, if you can get your hands on their flooded series.

my advice for you is go L*******
mek i off my mic, b4 fla fanboys will come for my head

Laffing in Swahili ;

Godliftedme:


Thanks, these will be high end batteries, are there medium cost with good value

You can also do the following:

1. Eastmaann
2. Luminous
3. Genus
4. Lento

samir101ng:


You can also do the following:

1. Eastmaann
2. Luminous
3. Genus
4. Lento

Thanks, do we have more concurence for wet cell (flooded) users

Godliftedme:


Thanks, do we have more concurence for wet cell (flooded) users

Quanta

dollarnaira:


Laffing in Swahili ;

If he buy am make I bend.

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Alright, thanks very much. I give them a try.
But apart from that which other good brand can I get below 350k 3.5kva hybrid

futurenix:


I actually have one I bought in 2021, the 3KW and it's still working till date. Use it to cook ones in a while. The second was bought for a client late in 2021 and still in use till date but they modified it recently and this current version is what I have not used.

There are guys now who can repair those inverters though they charge higher,30k upwards depending on the level of fault.

Uchman81:
Alright, thanks very much. I give them a try.
But apart from that which other good brand can I get below 350k 3.5kva hybrid

Powmr 3.5kva 24v 100a 500vdc mppt hybrid inverter - 360k

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Godliftedme:


Thanks, these will be high end batteries, are there medium cost with good value

it's often due to the BOLDed, that I discourage those who don't know what they're doing / newBies, from going Lithium.

Because in their quest for cheap Lithium batteries, they would end up buying rubbish.

Oga if you can't afford those brands listed, just state your budget so we might be able to make suggestions.

Moreover, Let's not discourage or make people believe Litium batteries are the next BEST thing. Just like SSDs, lithium technology has got it's place.

If you have money, go for a Good (USED) Tubular battery, else go for a Good (USED) Dry/Gel battery.
Leave lithium batteries for those with Thick Deep pockets, who knows authentic sources.

Let me say this, though most would ignore it.

There are lots of rePACKAGed batteries in the market. Even (popular) Luminous is mostly FAKE.
Some cunny Dealers/Sellers would give you a higher price, and whenn you try to price too much, they stylishly say "except you want those market batteries which we don't have" .

If you happen to know the price of original 100AH Luminous battery eh, you would begin to wonder how...

Let's not even get into battery Capacities. you see eh, that 220AH might not be up to 190AH.

Some expensive MPPT charge Controllers, might be less than Average PWM charge Controllers.

Be careful of (recommended) Dealers/outlets - You see eh, that you buying LG product from a branded outlet, doesn't necessarily mean you're NOT BUYing FAKE.

I don't often have time here, else would have started up a thread on how to use Solar without inVerter - of course that depends on nature of your Load

bassdow:
Let me say this, though most would ignore it.

There are lots of rePACKAGed batteries in the market. Even (popular) Luminous is mostly FAKE.
Some cunny Dealers/Sellers would give you a higher price, and whenn you try to price too much, they stylishly say "except you want those market batteries which we don't have" .

If you happen to know the price of original 100AH Luminous battery eh, you would begin to wonder how...

Let's not even get into battery Capacities. you see eh, that 220AH might not be up to 190AH.

Some expensive MPPT charge Controllers, might be less than Average PWM charge Controllers.

Be careful of (recommended) Dealers/outlets - You see eh, that you buying LG product from a branded outlet, doesn't necessarily mean you're NOT BUYing FAKE.

I don't often have time here, else would have started up a thread on how to use Solar without inVerter - of course that depends on nature of your Load

I can confirm and agree 100% with your take on Luminous batteries. Most in the market are fake.

It was until I called the company directly that l realise this.

I have decided to go the Liuthim way based on recommendations on this thread. Will be getting a 300A 24v from Valto by Monday, hopefully.

Uchman81:
Alright, thanks very much. I give them a try.
But apart from that which other good brand can I get below 350k 3.5kva hybrid

Those ones zeestone99 mentioned up there are ok too.

bassdow:
Let me say this, though most would ignore it.

There are lots of rePACKAGed batteries in the market. Even (popular) Luminous is mostly FAKE.
Some cunny Dealers/Sellers would give you a higher price, and whenn you try to price too much, they stylishly say "except you want those market batteries which we don't have" .

If you happen to know the price of original 100AH Luminous battery eh, you would begin to wonder how...

Let's not even get into battery Capacities. you see eh, that 220AH might not be up to 190AH.

Some expensive MPPT charge Controllers, might be less than Average PWM charge Controllers.

Be careful of (recommended) Dealers/outlets - You see eh, that you buying LG product from a branded outlet, doesn't necessarily mean you're NOT BUYing FAKE.

I don't often have time here, else would have started up a thread on how to use Solar without inVerter - of course that depends on nature of your Load

Especially that LG, Getting original LG tv is like looking for gold among stones. My mum bought fake, i got fake for my parent in law. I was able to get original. The difference between original and fake is like night and day in picture/video quality.
Anything LG, just go to Foani or any of there accredited sellers, that's the only 100% guarantee of getting original, anything apart from this, you might joyfully be hugging a fake home.

earthrealm:


best - rolls/surrete battery

2nd best - trojan battery

3rd best - battleborn, if you can get your hands on their flooded series.

my advice for you is go L*******
mek i off my mic, b4 fla fanboys will come for my head

I just dey laugh since I read this. You know this battery issue is like marriage. You choose who you want and to you they are the best. All I know is that my oldest Lithium battery is more than 2 years now and life has never been this sweet since I started my renewable journey about 12 years ago.
Over the years, I used both wet and sealed, semi-dry lead acid batteries, with the attendant up and downs. I also use domestically and for business, balancing the tug of MORE/ LATEST of an hobbyist and the PRAGMATISM of balancing the books in business had become an art for me.
For learners and fresh, small sized users, there is no harm in going that route of lead acid first to learn the ropes BUT if you are planning on a 2kVA and above inverter system, the most reasonable and cost effective path is straight to Lithium. That is the only path that makes business sense in my experience.

Please guru in the house, how much will be enough to setup a 3.5kva solar system. All expenses plus installation.?

Please has anybody used any product from stackedlight?

Ymguitarz:
Please guru in the house, how much will be enough to setup a 3.5kva solar system. All expenses plus installation.?

5million

Ymguitarz:
Please guru in the house, how much will be enough to setup a 3.5kva solar system. All expenses plus installation.?

atleast 4 to 6 million, depending on materials used

Ymguitarz:
Please guru in the house, how much will be enough to setup a 3.5kva solar system. All expenses plus installation.?

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jonescosmos:


I experienced the very same scenario in my house recently.
Gos was kind that it happened when we were at home.

The AC in breaker melted and caused fire outbreak., my wife was preparing the kids for school and went to the laundry room to fetch school uniforms only to find smoke coming from the inverter room which is next to the laundry room.
She quickly grabbed the extinguisher and put out the fire.
Then came to wake me up to break the news to me.

From the attached pictures you can see the AC-IN breaker completely melted.
The Amperage was 63A so I replaced it with 125A and till now, everything is going well.

Sorry to take you back to this post but I have to ask because the NEPA guys did the same thing with our street box (can’t remember what it is called) that kept blowing a fuse.

I don’t understand why you would replace the AC breaker (particularly AC-in) with one with a higher capacity in this situation. Isn’t the job of the 63a breaker to trip if the current goes above 63A? Isn’t the real question why didn’t the 63A breaker trip? Isn’t putting in a breaker of a higher capacity going to allow more current to flow potentially causing more damage in the event of a fault? If a 63A breaker could not prevent a fire, how is a higher capacity breaker supposed to?

Going back to the issue we used to have with the NEPA panel on my street, here was a time we had a problem of over voltage/overcurrent or whatever they call it and whenever the NEPA fuse blew, they kept using copper wire of a thicker gauge to bridge the failed fuse than the rated capacity, the result was that it would also blow fuses in the houses of residents of the street, they would then do the same thing (adding thicker copper bridge) to the fuses that blew in residents homes. The explanation I was given at the time was that putting a fuse higher than the rating (which is effectively what NEPA boys do by increasing the thickness of the copper wire) allowed current that was supposed to be halted at the NEPA panel to feed through to residents houses and in turn blow our fuses and for some of us who had in turn had their fuse capacity increased with the adding thicker copper wire method, blow equipment in the house. Since the actual proper fuse for the street NEPA box was installed and the fuses in our homes derated to the proper rating, we’ve not had the problem of excess current feeding into residents houses or fuses blowing.

Please correct me if I am wrong but something tells me the problem is not the rating of 63 A fuse or maybe the fuse was defective or poor quality. The idea of a breaker is to stop current above its rating going through. Sounds to me the 63A fuse was defective because it is not supposed to allow any current above 63 to pass through. I am not saying it is wrong, I am not an electrician and by knowledge does not go beyond the basics I learnt in school, I am trying to understand the science behind putting in a higher rating fuse.

From my layman’s understanding even if the breaker was not the right capacity for your system , it should still have just done it’s job and tripped not cause a fire. Looks to me like on the day, you had a NEPA surge and the breaker failed to do its job whether it was undersized or not. If a surge has not happened since, then putting in a higher rate breaker may seem to have cured the problem but that also may be only because you have not had a reoccurrence of what caused the surge. But if my thought process is right, going by the experience on my street, if you have a reoccurrence, your higher capacity breaker is only going to allow more current to pass through. If it was a defective breaker and the new one is of the same manufacturer and quality, what says it will work especially now it will allow even higher current before it’s break point?

This is like a having a small boat with a hole in it that can carry few passengers that sinks and then replacing it with a bigger boat that can carry more passengers but also has a hole in it, they are both going to sink if placed in the right circumstances, the only difference is having a bigger boat allows you to have more passengers on board to drown.

casualobserver:


Sorry to take you back to this post but I have to ask because the NEPA guys did the same thing with our street box (can’t remember what it is called) that kept blowing a fuse.

I don’t understand why you would replace the AC breaker (particularly AC-in) with one with a higher capacity in this situation. Isn’t the job of the 63a breaker to trip if the current goes above 63A? Isn’t the real question why didn’t the 63A breaker trip? Isn’t putting in a breaker of a higher capacity going to allow more current to flow potentially causing more damage in the event of a fault? If a 63A breaker could not prevent a fire, how is a higher capacity breaker supposed to?

Going back to the issue we used to have with the NEPA panel on my street, here was a time we had a problem of over voltage/overcurrent or whatever they call it and whenever the NEPA fuse blew, they kept using copper wire of a thicker gauge to bridge the failed fuse than the rated capacity, the result was that it would also blow fuses in the houses of residents of the street, they would then do the same thing (adding thicker copper bridge) to the fuses that blew in residents homes. The explanation I was given at the time was that putting a fuse higher than the rating (which is effectively what NEPA boys do by increasing the thickness of the copper wire) allowed current that was supposed to be halted at the NEPA panel to feed through to residents houses and in turn blow our fuses and for some of us who had in turn had their fuse capacity increased with the adding thicker copper wire method, blow equipment in the house. Since the actual proper fuse for the street NEPA box was installed and the fuses in our homes derated to the proper rating, we’ve not had the problem of excess current feeding into residents houses or fuses blowing.

Please correct me if I am wrong but something tells me the problem is not the rating of 63 A fuse or maybe the fuse was defective or poor quality. The idea of a breaker is to stop current above its rating going through. Sounds to me the 63A fuse was defective because it is not supposed to allow any current above 63 to pass through. I am not saying it is wrong, I am not an electrician and by knowledge does not go beyond the basics I learnt in school, I am trying to understand the science behind putting in a higher rating fuse.

From my layman’s understanding even if the breaker was not the right capacity for your system , it should still have just done it’s job and tripped not cause a fire. Looks to me like on the day, you had a NEPA surge and the breaker failed to do its job whether it was undersized or not. If a surge has not happened since, then putting in a higher rate breaker may seem to have cured the problem but that also may be only because you have not had a reoccurrence of what caused the surge. But if my thought process is right, going by the experience on my street, if you have a reoccurrence, your higher capacity breaker is only going to allow more current to pass through. If it was a defective breaker and the new one is of the same manufacturer and quality, what says it will work especially now it will allow even higher current before it’s break point?

This is like a having a small boat with a hole in it that can carry few passengers that sinks and then replacing it with a bigger boat that can carry more passengers but also has a hole in it, they are both going to sink if placed in the right circumstances, the only difference is having a bigger boat allows you to have more passengers on board to drown.

Yea you are right. Fault could have been from arcing from wires not properly torqued. Change of breaker is not the fix

This is what you will need

adebayo3449:
Good day my ogas here.

Please kindly help out.

(Picture attached)
I'm planning to set up a system where by I'll be able to use 150 watts fridge for 7hrs during the day from 6am in the morning to 1pm in the afternoon and also use 60 watts from 7pm in the evening till 7am in the morning.

(Since you use less than 1KWp, a PWM isn't bad, if trying to work on budget)
Please what is the cheapest way to achieve this. Is this possible with 12v and a good mttp charge controller?

If yes or no, please I beg you to suggest the type of panels, battery, breakers and the size needed.
Thanks so much

Also, I don't want to charge with Nepa light at all, except during cloudy days.

Please help

Target is to achieve this with the cheapest means possible without compromising quality (target is to change ba3 once in 3 yrs, hopefully I'll have enough money to expand before then).

(When a 24V solar panels are used, you have no choice but to use MPPT charge controller)
Also another question(another setup).
Is it advisable to use a single 600 watts panel on roof or use two 300 watts for a 12v setup.

Thanks so much

Namzy:


Yea you are right. Fault could have been from arcing from wires not properly torqued. Change of breaker is not the fix

I can wrap my head around that. Arcing makes sense, I can see some exposed wires in his installation despite the use of ferrules. Nonetheless It would be interesting to know if the fuse actually tripped though or if indeed in the scenario you described the breaker should trip. It seems looking at his pic, both his fire and that in the video he responded to, were from the AC side......at least on first view. If the Breaker was supposed to trip and it didnt, then it is worrying that there are breakers in the market that arent doing their job. That is really what prompted me to responding...do we have a problem with the breakers in the Nigerian market? No point in installing breakers that won't do what they are supposed to.

EDIT: I was looking at the breakers in the pic and had a look on Jumia. Surely there has to be a reason why "himel" breakers/fuses are on average 1/5 or 1/4 the price of the equivalent Schneider beyond just brand name.

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jonescosmos:


I experienced the very same scenario in my house recently.
Gos was kind that it happened when we were at home.

The AC in breaker melted and caused fire outbreak., my wife was preparing the kids for school and went to the laundry room to fetch school uniforms only to find smoke coming from the inverter room which is next to the laundry room.
She quickly grabbed the extinguisher and put out the fire.
Then came to wake me up to break the news to me.

From the attached pictures you can see the AC-IN breaker completely melted.
The Amperage was 63A so I replaced it with 125A and till now, everything is going well.

Except the previous FUSE had a RATing not properly matched, I would say to an extent, you have rendered the FUSE system useless.
When FUSE blows, or malfunctions, it's mostly due to a FAULT. You need figure out that underlying FAULT, and correct it else there would be a REPEAT sooner or later.

Swapping out the FUSE with one with HIGHer rating, to me is very WRONG. In fact just REPLACing the FUSE with one of same or higher rating, without actually investigating the actual CAUSE, is VERY VERY WRONG

Namzy:


Yea you are right. Fault could have been from arcing from wires not properly torqued. Change of breaker is not the fix

Please try not to SPEAK Grammar that would force people to ask Google More questions