olopan:
I am happy to announce our mini Solar inverter package dubbed "Ultimate Solar starter pack"

This isn't something new but its better than what you may have in it's category, as the parts that make it up have been proven and tested.

What make the Ultimate Solar Starter pack special?

150W Solar panels x 3 - enough to fast charge the battery and also provide energy to the day time loads to be powered.

30A PWM charge controller - With a LiFeP0₄ profile

1000W Pure sine wave Offgrid inverter

100AH 12V Lithium Battery - 1,200Wh of energy storage

Installation accessories like; 10mm PV cable, Aluminum roof mounting with its accessories, 3 way branch MC4 connectors and Roof sealant.

Price: 500,000 and instalment plan of up to 12 month is also available too.

This is targeted at people with little budget, small business and mini flat apartments, its application is boundless.

Thanks to the effort of some valuable members here with their support in ensuring that an affordable solution and product is reached.

I am available to answer questions you may have regarding the product.

One off payment is ?

500,000

dollarnaira:


One off payment is ?

Is this tier 1?

kiekie1:
CANADIAN 670w AVAILABLE !!

Canadian 670w solar panel now available.

Unit Price : 200k
8 units above: 195k
Tier 1 high quality brand


For further enquiry & purchase;
Contact,
Smartcell global services
CALL LINE::::: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: 081-703-85620

swagifted:
zombie apocalypse ready, fast unlimited internet, followed by 15kwh battery.
brought my xbox series x to this site to download a game and boy see the speed.
i downloaded fifa 23 63gb , ghost recon wildlands , 60+ gb , then microsoft flight simulator 130GB all under a few hours

starlink?

olopan:
500,000

Without the solar system nko

Valto:
atleast 4 to 6 million, depending on materials used

Prices keeps going up weekly.
Do u have a picture of an installation u can post here?

casualobserver:


Sorry to take you back to this post but I have to ask because the NEPA guys did the same thing with our street box (can’t remember what it is called) that kept blowing a fuse.

I don’t understand why you would replace the AC breaker (particularly AC-in) with one with a higher capacity in this situation. Isn’t the job of the 63a breaker to trip if the current goes above 63A? Isn’t the real question why didn’t the 63A breaker trip? Isn’t putting in a breaker of a higher capacity going to allow more current to flow potentially causing more damage in the event of a fault? If a 63A breaker could not prevent a fire, how is a higher capacity breaker supposed to?

Going back to the issue we used to have with the NEPA panel on my street, here was a time we had a problem of over voltage/overcurrent or whatever they call it and whenever the NEPA fuse blew, they kept using copper wire of a thicker gauge to bridge the failed fuse than the rated capacity, the result was that it would also blow fuses in the houses of residents of the street, they would then do the same thing (adding thicker copper bridge) to the fuses that blew in residents homes. The explanation I was given at the time was that putting a fuse higher than the rating (which is effectively what NEPA boys do by increasing the thickness of the copper wire) allowed current that was supposed to be halted at the NEPA panel to feed through to residents houses and in turn blow our fuses and for some of us who had in turn had their fuse capacity increased with the adding thicker copper wire method, blow equipment in the house. Since the actual proper fuse for the street NEPA box was installed and the fuses in our homes derated to the proper rating, we’ve not had the problem of excess current feeding into residents houses or fuses blowing.

Please correct me if I am wrong but something tells me the problem is not the rating of 63 A fuse or maybe the fuse was defective or poor quality. The idea of a breaker is to stop current above its rating going through. Sounds to me the 63A fuse was defective because it is not supposed to allow any current above 63 to pass through. I am not saying it is wrong, I am not an electrician and by knowledge does not go beyond the basics I learnt in school, I am trying to understand the science behind putting in a higher rating fuse.

From my layman’s understanding even if the breaker was not the right capacity for your system , it should still have just done it’s job and tripped not cause a fire. Looks to me like on the day, you had a NEPA surge and the breaker failed to do its job whether it was undersized or not. If a surge has not happened since, then putting in a higher rate breaker may seem to have cured the problem but that also may be only because you have not had a reoccurrence of what caused the surge. But if my thought process is right, going by the experience on my street, if you have a reoccurrence, your higher capacity breaker is only going to allow more current to pass through. If it was a defective breaker and the new one is of the same manufacturer and quality, what says it will work especially now it will allow even higher current before it’s break point?

This is like a having a small boat with a hole in it that can carry few passengers that sinks and then replacing it with a bigger boat that can carry more passengers but also has a hole in it, they are both going to sink if placed in the right circumstances, the only difference is having a bigger boat allows you to have more passengers on board to drown.

Nice for you to call my attention to this incident. This issue happened when I had a single Unit 16KW Deye Inverter. I would itemize my responses.

1. Those HIMEL breakers came with the Inverter, and they worked perfectly well. I made a comparison with the ones I later bought by myself and noticed that in fact these 2 that shipped with the inverter are original.

2. The AC-In breaker did not cause the fire. As a matter of fact, it did its job perfectly, if you look at the picture again, you will notice that it tripped, preventing further damage.

3. The issue was caused by the HAGER changeover between the AC-IN Breaker and the AC-IN Current Limiter. The Hager switch I suspect must have overheated and caught fire eventually.

4. THE MAIN CAUSE AS I INVESTIGATED: This 16KW DEYE Inverter had 290A Charging power. The night before I ramped up the charging rate from 120A to 240A because I added another battery (15KW Felicity) and the Datasheet shows that battery needs 120A charging rate and if you have X number of the batteries you should use X*120A setting on your inverter.

5. There was no grid at the time when I did this change. So early in the morning when the grid came and battery started charging, kids’ school preparing also started, Kitchen Cooker unit and Water Heater kicked on, Two Children's Water Heaters Kicked on, and the Overall Amperage on the AC-IN circuit ramped Up to around 72A which sat there for about five minutes or so, The HAGER Switch had gathered heat I guess and started melting. The HIMEL Breaker shut down, but the switch continued to melt internally and eventually inflamed.

6. Results from N0.5 above was gotten from my Smart Energy Meter I has Installed after NEPA Meter. So, I replaced the AC-IN Breaker because I saw that my AC-IN Current ramped above 63A just before the issue. My choice of 125A was that DEYE in the Inverter User manual recommended a 200A Grid Breaker. The reason why the Inverter was shipped with a 63A breaker remained a mystery to me.

7. The exposed wires from the ferrules were due to the heat that resulted from the fire.

8. I can beat my chest about my Screw contact torque and tell you It wasn't the case at all. People find it difficult to loosen bolts, nuts, screws, etc., that I tighten because I torque to specification and most people lac appropriate torque tools.

I hope I have been able to clear the doubts here.

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durodee:


I just dey laugh since I read this. You know this battery issue is like marriage. You choose who you want and to you they are the best. All I know is that my oldest Lithium battery is more than 2 years now and life has never been this sweet since I started my renewable journey about 12 years ago.
Over the years, I used both wet and sealed, semi-dry lead acid batteries, with the attendant up and downs. I also use domestically and for business, balancing the tug of MORE/ LATEST of an hobbyist and the PRAGMATISM of balancing the books in business had become an art for me.
For learners and fresh, small sized users, there is no harm in going that route of lead acid first to learn the ropes BUT if you are planning on a 2kVA and above inverter system, the most reasonable and cost effective path is straight to Lithium. That is the only path that makes business sense in my experience.

With the knowledge I have now, I would prefer to recommend a 12V 100A lithium battery than a 12V 200Ah lead acid(top brands), and their prices are not too far off.

Juror:


With the knowledge I have now, I would prefer to recommend a 12V 100A lithium battery than a 12V 200Ah lead acid.

It should be experience now.

In 2021 someone quote me to ask if LFP has lived more than 3 years. Today I saw the post I just laughed..

For those of us that have earthed their solar panels.

When do I need to create a separate earth terminal for the panels instead of that of the main house?

Currently the panel earthing is connected to the house earth.

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It won't work ... It is an off-grid inverter. NEPA can't charge through the inverter. Except you have an independent lithium suitable charger

Puvo:


Without the solar system nko

Dam5reey:


It should be experience now.

In 2021 someone quote me to ask if LFP has lived more than 3 years. Today I saw the post I just laughed..

Yes, Knowledge could be as a result of experience too.

Love the detailed findings

I wanted to mentioned earlier that it was the change over that caught fire due to the four screw holes under it.

I also think by now people should know that
Your max. Charge current plus estimated max. Load when converte to power should be divided by expected AC voltage to know what their ac breaker should be.

More power to your elbows

jonescosmos:


Nice for you to call my attention to this incident. This issue happened when I had a single Unit 16KW Deye Inverter. I would itemize my responses.

1. Those HIMEL breakers came with the Inverter, and they worked perfectly well. I made a comparison with the ones I later bought by myself and noticed that in fact these 2 that shipped with the inverter are original.

2. The AC-In breaker did not cause the fire. As a matter of fact, it did its job perfectly, if you look at the picture again, you will notice that it tripped, preventing further damage.

3. The issue was caused by the HAGER changeover between the AC-IN Breaker and the AC-IN Current Limiter. The Hager switch I suspect must have overheated and caught fire eventually.

4. THE MAIN CAUSE AS I INVESTIGATED: This 16KW DEYE Inverter had 290A Charging power. The night before I ramped up the charging rate from 120A to 240A because I added another battery (15KW Felicity) and the Datasheet shows that battery needs 120A charging rate and if you have X number of the batteries you should use X*120A setting on your inverter.

5. There was no grid at the time when I did this change. So early in the morning when the grid came and battery started charging, kids’ school preparing also started, Kitchen Cooker unit and Water Heater kicked on, Two Children's Water Heaters Kicked on, and the Overall Amperage on the AC-IN circuit ramped Up to around 72A which sat there for about five minutes or so, The HAGER Switch had gathered heat I guess and started melting. The HIMEL Breaker shut down, but the switch continued to melt internally and eventually inflamed.

6. Results from N0.5 above was gotten from my Smart Energy Meter I has Installed after NEPA Meter. So, I replaced the AC-IN Breaker because I saw that my AC-IN Current ramped above 63A just before the issue. My choice of 125A was that DEYE in the Inverter User manual recommended a 200A Grid Breaker. The reason why the Inverter was shipped with a 63A breaker remained a mystery to me.

7. The exposed wires from the ferrules were due to the heat that resulted from the fire.

8. I can beat my chest about my Screw contact torque and tell you It wasn't the case at all. People find it difficult to loosen bolts, nuts, screws, etc., that I tighten because I torque to specification and most people lac appropriate torque tools.

I hope I have been able to clear the doubts here.

jonescosmos:


Nice for you to call my attention to this incident. This issue happened when I had a single Unit 16KW Deye Inverter. I would itemize my responses.

1. Those HIMEL breakers came with the Inverter, and they worked perfectly well. I made a comparison with the ones I later bought by myself and noticed that in fact these 2 that shipped with the inverter are original.

2. The AC-In breaker did not cause the fire. As a matter of fact, it did its job perfectly, if you look at the picture again, you will notice that it tripped, preventing further damage.

3. The issue was caused by the HAGER changeover between the AC-IN Breaker and the AC-IN Current Limiter. The Hager switch I suspect must have overheated and caught fire eventually.

4. THE MAIN CAUSE AS I INVESTIGATED: This 16KW DEYE Inverter had 290A Charging power. The night before I ramped up the charging rate from 120A to 240A because I added another battery (15KW Felicity) and the Datasheet shows that battery needs 120A charging rate and if you have X number of the batteries you should use X*120A setting on your inverter.

5. There was no grid at the time when I did this change. So early in the morning when the grid came and battery started charging, kids’ school preparing also started, Kitchen Cooker unit and Water Heater kicked on, Two Children's Water Heaters Kicked on, and the Overall Amperage on the AC-IN circuit ramped Up to around 72A which sat there for about five minutes or so, The HAGER Switch had gathered heat I guess and started melting. The HIMEL Breaker shut down, but the switch continued to melt internally and eventually inflamed.

6. Results from N0.5 above was gotten from my Smart Energy Meter I has Installed after NEPA Meter. So, I replaced the AC-IN Breaker because I saw that my AC-IN Current ramped above 63A just before the issue. My choice of 125A was that DEYE in the Inverter User manual recommended a 200A Grid Breaker. The reason why the Inverter was shipped with a 63A breaker remained a mystery to me.

7. The exposed wires from the ferrules were due to the heat that resulted from the fire.

8. I can beat my chest about my Screw contact torque and tell you It wasn't the case at all. People find it difficult to loosen bolts, nuts, screws, etc., that I tighten because I torque to specification and most people lac appropriate torque tools.

I hope I have been able to clear the doubts here.

Thank you for your detailed response. I really do appreciate it and I have been reading you and some other posters and watching YouTube videos (Dave Poz, Off grid garage etc) to gain some understanding about solar in general, what works and what doesn’t, safety risks etc etc before I take the plunge.

I think I now have a clearer picture, the burnt device in the picture is the switch not the breaker? I had assumed that was the breaker. I know there are different types of fuses/ breakers, some that trip immediately they go above a certain level and some that will allow current for a brief period. Why would 73A of current flow through a 63A breaker for 5 minutes, is that normal? If it had tripped as it should, how was current was still flowing through the switch? Or is it that switches are also rated for current and the switch did not have the rating to handle the current and by the time the breaker tripped damage had already been done to the switch?

Also if you don’t mind how are you finding the capacity of the Felicity 15kw and out of curiosity I know you replaced your 16kw with 2 8kw, are they also 3 phase or did you revert to 2 single phase inverters?


Thanks

PS: my takeaway from this is that every component must be stress tested at point of installation. Fuses , breakers, inverter, etc

olopan:
This is what you will need

Ok
Thanks

..

Please expert in the house, how would I know when the battery is fully charged for this type of inverter?

olopan:
It won't work ... It is an off-grid inverter. NEPA can't charge through the inverter. Except you have an independent lithium suitable charger

dedicated 12v 30A lifepo4 lithium battery chargers available @ 35k displays red light when charging,turns to green when battery is full.

Rexology:
Please expert in the house, how would I know when the battery is fully charged for this type of inverter?

The refresh light changes from Red to Green

Dam5reey:


The refresh light changes from Red to Green

Oh thank you very much, the refresh light is faint green, should I off the inverter now or i should wait for it to be bold green?

Can I find this in Nigeria or do I have to import?

Will be used to ground my DSTV lead-in cable?

FEGEITOK:
For those of us that have earthed their solar panels.

When do I need to create a separate earth terminal for the panels instead of that of the main house?

Currently the panel earthing is connected to the house earth.

Do it separate. You don't want flow path to ground through your home.

Inside the ground, link the panel earth rod to the earth rod serving the house.

Guiding principle: surge follows shortage/fastest (least resistant) path to ground.

Thanks for shedding more light on this, I always thought only those INEC battery have a custom made charger.

Valto:
dedicated 12v 30A lifepo4 lithium battery chargers available @ 35k displays red light when charging,turns to green when battery is full.

mank1234:


Do it separate. You don't want flow path to ground through your home.

Inside the ground, link the panel earth rod to the earth rod serving the house.

Guiding principle: surge follows shortage/fastest (least resistant) path to ground.

Thanks.

Additional clarifications.

There is an earth rod outside the building.

It is less than 5 inches from the building.

The solar panels are 170 inches from the building.

I connected the solar panels that distance of 170 inches to the general earth of the house.

You mean that I should do another earth rod less than 5 inches from the solar panels then connect both underground right?

olopan:
It won't work ... It is an off-grid inverter. NEPA can't charge through the inverter. Except you have an independent lithium suitable charger

What’s your location

olopan:
I am happy to announce our mini Solar inverter package dubbed "Ultimate Solar starter pack"

This isn't something new but its better than what you may have in it's category, as the parts that make it up have been proven and tested.

What make the Ultimate Solar Starter pack special?

150W Solar panels x 3 - enough to fast charge the battery and also provide energy to the day time loads to be powered.

30A PWM charge controller - With a LiFeP0₄ profile

1000W Pure sine wave Offgrid inverter

100AH 12V Lithium Battery - 1,200Wh of energy storage

Installation accessories like; 10mm PV cable, Aluminum roof mounting with its accessories, 3 way branch MC4 connectors and Roof sealant.

Price: 500,000 and instalment plan of up to 12 month is also available too.

This is targeted at people with little budget, small business and mini flat apartments, its application is boundless.

Thanks to the effort of some valuable members here with their support in ensuring that an affordable solution and product is reached.

I am available to answer questions you may have regarding the product.

Nice one, bro! Weldone!

Dam5reey:


It should be experience now.

In 2021 someone quote me to ask if LFP has lived more than 3 years. Today I saw the post I just laughed..

Has your opinion concerning lithium changed?

Spot on!!! This is the main reason some of these breakers burnout. If the right torque isn't applied to tighten the screws, arcing occurs as current flows through that terminal and this can lead to overheating of the terminals and the insulation material of the conductors connected to the breakers.

Namzy:


Yea you are right. Fault could have been from arcing from wires not properly torqued. Change of breaker is not the fix

Breakers usually respond to two types of faults
1. Overload current
2. Fault current from short circuit.
In the case of fault current from short circuiting, the response time is usually faster as the short circuit current is high enough to disrupt the flow of current and this happens in millisecs.

If it is overload current, the breaker also responds but is usually slower. If the right torque of the breaker isn't applied to tighten the screws, arcing occurs as current flows through that terminal and this can lead to overheating of the terminals and the insulation material of the conductors connected to the breakers. This overheating occurs gradually and with time the strength of the materials used to make the breakers gets weaker and weaker until it breaks down finally causing a fire.

That's why it's necessary to size your breakers appropriately. Always multiply your maximum load current by 1.25 to cater for such overload cases.

If you installed a 63A breaker, and your current draw is more than the installed breaker capacity, say 80A all the time, it's only a matter of time before that breaker collapses.

This doesn't change the fact that we also have substandard products in the market but I'm sure we all get quality breakers from the market.

Namzy post=125508376quote author=casualobserver:


Sorry to take you back to this post but I have to ask because the NEPA guys did the same thing with our street box (can’t remember what it is called) that kept blowing a fuse.

I don’t understand why you would replace the AC breaker (particularly AC-in) with one with a higher capacity in this situation. Isn’t the job of the 63a breaker to trip if the current goes above 63A? Isn’t the real question why didn’t the 63A breaker trip? Isn’t putting in a breaker of a higher capacity going to allow more current to flow potentially causing more damage in the event of a fault? If a 63A breaker could not prevent a fire, how is a higher capacity breaker supposed to?

Going back to the issue we used to have with the NEPA panel on my street, here was a time we had a problem of over voltage/overcurrent or whatever they call it and whenever the NEPA fuse blew, they kept using copper wire of a thicker gauge to bridge the failed fuse than the rated capacity, the result was that it would also blow fuses in the houses of residents of the street, they would then do the same thing (adding thicker copper bridge) to the fuses that blew in residents homes. The explanation I was given at the time was that putting a fuse higher than the rating (which is effectively what NEPA boys do by increasing the thickness of the copper wire) allowed current that was supposed to be halted at the NEPA panel to feed through to residents houses and in turn blow our fuses and for some of us who had in turn had their fuse capacity increased with the adding thicker copper wire method, blow equipment in the house. Since the actual proper fuse for the street NEPA box was installed and the fuses in our homes derated to the proper rating, we’ve not had the problem of excess current feeding into residents houses or fuses blowing.

Please correct me if I am wrong but something tells me the problem is not the rating of 63 A fuse or maybe the fuse was defective or poor quality. The idea of a breaker is to stop current above its rating going through. Sounds to me the 63A fuse was defective because it is not supposed to allow any current above 63 to pass through. I am not saying it is wrong, I am not an electrician and by knowledge does not go beyond the basics I learnt in school, I am trying to understand the science behind putting in a higher rating fuse.

From my layman’s understanding even if the breaker was not the right capacity for your system , it should still have just done it’s job and tripped not cause a fire. Looks to me like on the day, you had a NEPA surge and the breaker failed to do its job whether it was undersized or not. If a surge has not happened since, then putting in a higher rate breaker may seem to have cured the problem but that also may be only because you have not had a reoccurrence of what caused the surge. But if my thought process is right, going by the experience on my street, if you have a reoccurrence, your higher capacity breaker is only going to allow more current to pass through. If it was a defective breaker and the new one is of the same manufacturer and quality, what says it will work especially now it will allow even higher current before it’s break point?

This is like a having a small boat with a hole in it that can carry few passengers that sinks and then replacing it with a bigger boat that can carry more passengers but also has a hole in it, they are both going to sink if placed in the right circumstances, the only difference is having a bigger boat allows you to have more passengers on board to drown.

Israelicc:
Breakers usually respond to two types of faults
1. Overload current
2. Fault current from short circuit.
In the case of fault current from short circuiting, the response time is usually faster as the short circuit current is high enough to disrupt the flow of current and this happens in millisecs.

If it is overload current, the breaker also responds but is usually slower. If the right torque of the breaker isn't applied to tighten the screws, arcing occurs as current flows through that terminal and this can lead to overheating of the terminals and the insulation material of the conductors connected to the breakers. This overheating occurs gradually and with time the strength of the materials used to make the breakers gets weaker and weaker until it breaks down finally causing a fire.

That's why it's necessary to size your breakers appropriately. Always multiply your maximum load current by 1.25 to cater for such overload cases.

If you installed a 63A breaker, and your current draw is more than the installed breaker capacity, say 80A all the time, it's only a matter of time before that breaker collapses.

This doesn't change the fact that we also have substandard products in the market but I'm sure we all get quality breakers from the market.

Thanks for that. It makes sense that if current passes through a device that is not designed for that level of current bad things will happen but isn’t the purpose of a breaker not to allow current above its rating to pass through even once talk less “all the time”? That’s where I am struggling.

That said jonescosmos did say he eventually diagnosed the problem as the switch. Since 75A went through for 5 minutes I assume that’s how long it took for the breaker to trip. I am also assuming (since he didn’t say otherwise) that the switch wasn’t rated for the high current passing through it , which destroyed it causing the fire before the breaker eventually tripped.

Current passing through a switch above its rating and causing damage makes sense to me.
Why a breaker allowed current above its rating for 5 minutes still doesn’t.

That said I can understand a hypothetical scenario where a switch is rated for say 30A, a breaker for 50A and current of 45A flows and causes a fire at the switch and the breaker doesn’t trip because it is within the limit of the current passing through, allowing the current to continue to do damage. I can’t wrap my head around a current of 60A flowing in this hypothetical scenario and the breaker 50A remaining live long enough for damage to be done at the 30A switch.