I saw this black car that look like deep touch of blue. I ask people is this not black color they said it’s black but look like black. it look like black with mix of deep navy blue. Although its black like deep blue. Its black that has this deep blue in it.

And i want to paint my Accord to that color. But. Confused I don’t know how to explain it.

The type of black colored cars i keep seeing around i don’t like them. The dull black gray i like that too.

Does any one here know of something like that that black navy blue color?

Bullfallo:
I saw this black car that look like deep touch of blue. I ask people is this not black color they said it’s black but look like black. it look like black with mix of deep navy blue. Although its black like deep blue. Its black that has this deep blue in it.

And i want to paint my Accord to that color. But. Confused I don’t know how to explain it.

The type of black colored cars i keep seeing around i don’t like them. The dull black gray i like that too.

Does any one here know of something like that that black navy blue color?

Google matte black cars and see if that's what you mean.

vivalavida:


Google matte black cars and see it that's what you mean.

I know matte black.

The normal black painted cars i keep seeing don’t like them.

. I like matte black too but i don’t need it for now.

Black gray or black navy blue.

I have searched google but couldn’t find a close one.

Bullfallo:
I saw this black car that look like deep touch of blue. I ask people is this not black color they said it’s black but look like black. it look like black with mix of deep navy blue. Although its black like deep blue. Its black that has this deep blue in it.

And i want to paint my Accord to that color. But. Confused I don’t know how to explain it.

The type of black colored cars i keep seeing around i don’t like them. The dull black gray i like that too.

Does any one here know of something like that that black navy blue color?

Midnight blue is the darkest shade of blue so dark that many may mistake it for black.

kingreign:


Midnight blue is the darkest shade of blue so dark that many may mistake it for black.

thanks. I have been looking for a car online to shows it to painter. It’s difficult men.

kingreign:


Midnight blue is the darkest shade of blue so dark that many may mistake it for black.

i think I found something close


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRhFckSxGlA

Regular maintenance is key for Honda cars. Following the recommended service schedule, check fluids, inspect brakes, and keep tires properly inflated. Address issues promptly for a smooth and reliable driving experience.

alaricsaltzman:

Thank you

I initially didn't want to respond to your initial request, but I'm forced to for obvious reasons.
You'll be careful with that approach and recommendations. I remember giving you that option initially but opted for you to do a drain and refill allowing gravity to pull out water from the block when you open the drain plug or hose from the bottom of the radiator for little drop of water won't do your system any harm if mixed with coolant.
That approach you're about taking if you've not done so should be handled by someone that understands the implications of pouring cold coolant in an hot engine.
All the best and cheers.

fineboynl:
I was sock today with my findings

I took my exhaust manifold out. V6 accord

The bank 1 downstream sensor was faulty all along . I have been using it like that for months.

But when i took out both exhaust manifold the bank 1 exhaust was clear white/gray in color. Putting your finger inside to scrub it will not stain your finger. It look dried and clear and more like engine that is working properly.

But the bank 2 exhaust manifold was black. Putting your finger to touch inside will stain your finger with black soot.

The both exhaust manifold was the same black inside before the bank one became faulty. I called my mechanic attention to it and ask him this two which one is consuming fuel he said its the black soot one. But i told him that is the one the both O2 sensor is working.

The other one inside was clear with all soot varnish is the one the downstream O2 sensor is not working.

My findings is still not clear if its the sensor responsible? Could it be because of the faulty sensor? The car might be on lopes mode which reduces the fuel.

If that is the case I might end up disconnecting the other downstream sensor.

I need clarification on this finding and it might solve all fuel consumption.

Thanks

Which year?
And what are you calling bank 1 and bank 2?
Bank 1 is facing the firewall and bank 2 is facing the radiator. Did you get it correct?

Macmilla:

Which year?
And what are you calling bank 1 and bank 2?
Bank 1 is facing the firewall and bank 2 is facing the radiator. Did you get it correct?

yea I know bank 1 and bank 2.

The bank 1 downstream sensor doesn’t work. I have a check engine light for that. Its 2007 accord. But surprisingly that exhaust manifold happened to be the most fuel efficient. I was thinking since the computer can no longer read from it. It reduce the fuel consumption. Because that manifold was clean and clear using your finger to scrub inside will not stain it with soot.

fineboynl:
yea I know bank 1 and bank 2.

The bank 1 downstream sensor doesn’t work. I have a check engine light for that. Its 2007 accord. But surprisingly that exhaust manifold happened to be the most fuel efficient. I was thinking since the computer can no longer read from it. It reduce the fuel consumption. Because that manifold was clean and clear using your finger to scrub inside will not stain it with soot.

The upstream is what determines the fuel consumption. The downstream is for emission purposes.

jceesquare:

I initially didn't want to respond to your initial request, but I'm forced to for obvious reasons.
You'll be careful with that approach and recommendations. I remember giving you that option initially but opted for you to do a drain and refill allowing gravity to pull out water from the block when you open the drain plug or hose from the bottom of the radiator for little drop of water won't do your system any harm if mixed with coolant.
That approach you're about taking if you've not done so should be handled by someone that understands the implications of pouring cold coolant in an hot engine.
All the best and cheers.

Gravity won't normally pull out half the water from the engine block through the radiator return pipe (especially if there's a thermostat) And even without the engine having a thermostat, gravity can only pull out so much before the water pump would have to do the rest. The piping system in an engine block itself is intricate and gravity won't work properly on many of it's sections with U joints.

Remember op asked of a way to remove most of the water from his cooling system before refiling with coolant (which I believe is the best practice) . Another option he has is to locate the engine block coolant drain plug (which i think is overkill) . Let him try to take out all the water first. The only con here is that he will need more coolant to fill the empty engine block plus the radiator as well.

His engine isn't going to be overheating by the time he is to be introducing cold coolant into it. He just has to let it reach operating temperature when the thermostat is supposed to be open so most of the water in the engine block can exit via power of the water pump. If you look properly I advised him to keep an eye on his temperature Guage the whole period of bleeding the cooling system. It is only an overheating engine that doesn't require immediate filling with cold water or coolant. . Even if you're driving on a long journey and you stop to open your bonnet and use your hand to feel the two coolant pipes running in-between your engine and radiator, you'd find out that one is of them is hot while one will be relatively cooler to the touch. When your thermostat opens up, the cooler coolant gets sucked into the engine block from the radiator at the same time that the hot coolant is getting pumped out of the engine block and straight into the same radiator to be cooled down by the fans. This method is designed to cause the engine no harm. Its only when temperature has unfortunately gone too high and stayed there for a while before it gets dangerous to pour cold coolant inside it

Do you know that the usual 4 cylinder engine block can hold up to 4 litres of water inside its piping at cold start? I still say he does it the way i directed for best results. Even mechanics sometimes run tokumbo replacement engine blocks dry of coolant for some minutes during testing after mounting without adverse effects. Why will someone buy 5 litres of expensive coolant and dilute it with 4 litres of regular water that he is running away from (unless the coolant isn't the pre diluted type)

Your way is nice. Its for those who are not too concerned about the already contaminated water mixing with their new coolant.

BoyiBernard:
I experienced something unusual. My 2012 accord has had a p0420 for months and i was told i need to replace the catalyst. I drove through a pool of water over a week ago and the check engine light that had been on went off and hasn't come back on. Scanned the car and the error is no longer there. Wondering what the water had to do with it.

Conner44:


First empty the radiator (loosen the drain plug under it) and once the radiator is completely empty switch on your engine for a few minutes until your temperature needle reaches the middle (I am assuming you have a thermostat) and once it reaches the middle you can then switch off the engine, replace the radiator drain plug and then proceed to fill up the radiator with the coolant.

Start the engine again and leave the radiator cap open, once the coolant level goes down fill it up, keep filling it up till it's level then replace the cover.

Remember to leave the coolant overflow container empty till after the engine has cooled down properly before you can now fill it up with coolant to the recommended level.

DO NOT FILL THE COOLANT OVERFLOW CONTAINER UNTIL YOU HAVE PROPERLY BLED THE COOLING SYSTEM TO REDUCE THE RISK OF OVERHEATING

How exactly does filling the overflow container lead to overheating?

Macmilla:

How exactly does filling the overflow container lead to overheating?

Engine cooling systems are usually close-looped and pressurised. Also as coolant gets hotter it expands and as it gets cooler it contracts.

The pressure in your engine block is also going to expand during high temperatures and reduce during cold temperatures. During engine use, as it gets hotter the pressure will build up within the cooling system and will need to be able to get pushed out of the radiator and engine block to make room for the already expanding coolant to flow properly within the system. All that extra pressure during engine use is designed to be routed into the coolant overflow container.

If the coolant overflow container is filled up past the recommended level then the calculated pressure buildup in the running engine will exceed the space designed for it in the cooling system and will need to be expelled somehow. Most coolant overflow containers have a pressure release valve/hose built into its cover but I've seen some vehicles where such covers have spoilt, those are the types that have increased risks while being overfilled.

Some signs to know that you have overfilled your coolant overflow container is usually when you experience one or more of the following,

1. Hot coolant spilling out of your coolant overflow container onto your other engine components and the floor since the coolant has expanded and has nowhere else to go but out of the coolant overflow container vent valve.

2. Reduced cooling efficiency (the temperature needle on the guage slowly crossing the halfway mark while driving in hold up and sometimes coming back down when on an open road) due to improper ratio of air to coolant in the cooling system.

3. The coolant overflow container will seem to be boiling (as the exessive pressure tries to force its way out of the cover of the overflow container or any available exit hose/pipe if available)

4. The radiator or overflow container itself exploding and gaining a leak if the excess pressure finds its exit via brute force (or any unfortunate outlet like via gaskets, seals or oil cooler lines)

On most cars if you overfilled the coolant overflow container it will just spill out the excess coolant from its vent overtime but what if that vent isn't functioning properly? It's better you just take the safe approach and run the vehicle to operating temp and shutting it off to cool very well before topping up the radiator and coolant overflow container to a level between its min and max lines.

Conner44:


Gravity won't normally pull out half the water from the engine block through the radiator return pipe (especially if there's a thermostat) And even without the engine having a thermostat, gravity can only pull out so much before the water pump would have to do the rest. The piping system in an engine block itself is intricate and gravity won't work properly on many of it's sections with U joints.

Remember op asked of a way to remove most of the water from his cooling system before refiling with coolant (which I believe is the best practice) . Another option he has is to locate the engine block coolant drain plug (which i think is overkill) . Let him try to take out all the water first. The only con here is that he will need more coolant to fill the empty engine block plus the radiator as well.

His engine isn't going to be overheating by the time he is to be introducing cold coolant into it. He just has to let it reach operating temperature when the thermostat is supposed to be open so most of the water in the engine block can exit via power of the water pump. If you look properly I advised him to keep an eye on his temperature Guage the whole period of bleeding the cooling system. It is only an overheating engine that doesn't require immediate filling with cold water or coolant. . Even if you're driving on a long journey and you stop to open your bonnet and use your hand to feel the two coolant pipes running in-between your engine and radiator, you'd find out that one is of them is hot while one will be relatively cooler to the touch. When your thermostat opens up, the cooler coolant gets sucked into the engine block from the radiator at the same time that the hot coolant is getting pumped out of the engine block and straight into the same radiator to be cooled down by the fans. This method is designed to cause the engine no harm. Its only when temperature has unfortunately gone too high and stayed there for a while before it gets dangerous to pour cold coolant inside it

Do you know that the usual 4 cylinder engine block can hold up to 4 litres of water inside its piping at cold start? I still say he does it the way i directed for best results. Even mechanics sometimes run tokumbo replacement engine blocks dry of coolant for some minutes during testing after mounting without adverse effects. Why will someone buy 5 litres of expensive coolant and dilute it with 4 litres of regular water that he is running away from (unless the coolant isn't the pre diluted type)

Your way is nice. Its for those who are not too concerned about the already contaminated water mixing with their new coolant.

The choice is his to make.

Conner44:


Engine cooling systems are usually close-looped and pressurised. Also as coolant gets hotter it expands and as it gets cooler it contracts.

The pressure in your engine block is also going to expand during high temperatures and reduce during cold temperatures. During engine use, as it gets hotter the pressure will build up within the cooling system and will need to be able to get pushed out of the radiator and engine block to make room for the already expanding coolant to flow properly within the system. All that extra pressure during engine use is designed to be routed into the coolant overflow container.

If the coolant overflow container is filled up past the recommended level then the calculated pressure buildup in the running engine will exceed the space designed for it in the cooling system and will need to be expelled somehow. Most coolant overflow containers have a pressure release valve/hose built into its cover but I've seen some vehicles where such covers have spoilt, those are the types that have increased risks while being overfilled.

Some signs to know that you have overfilled your coolant overflow container is usually when you experience one or more of the following,

1. Hot coolant spilling out of your coolant overflow container onto your other engine components and the floor since the coolant has expanded and has nowhere else to go but out of the coolant overflow container vent valve.

2. Reduced cooling efficiency (the temperature needle on the guage slowly crossing the halfway mark while driving in hold up and sometimes coming back down when on an open road) due to improper ratio of air to coolant in the cooling system.

3. The coolant overflow container will seem to be boiling (as the exessive pressure tries to force its way out of the cover of the overflow container or any available exit hose/pipe if available)

4. The radiator or overflow container itself exploding and gaining a leak if the excess pressure finds its exit via brute force (or any unfortunate outlet like via gaskets, seals or oil cooler lines)

On most cars if you overfilled the coolant overflow container it will just spill out the excess coolant from its vent overtime but what if that vent isn't functioning properly? It's better you just take the safe approach and run the vehicle to operating temp and shutting it off to cool very well before topping up the radiator and coolant overflow container to a level between its min and max lines.

There's A LOT of misinformation in this write-up.
Yest the cooling system is a closed pressurized system, but the reservoir is NOT part of the pressurized system. The pressure in the system is regulated by the cover of the radiator (Yes, the radiator cover is more than just a cover). When the engine is running and therefore heating up, the water starts expanding and the pressure in the system starts rising. When the pressure gets to a set point, the release valve in the radiator cover lets the excess water push past it and INTO THE RESERVOIR.
When you turn off the engine and it starts cooling down, the coolant starts contracting. This contraction creates suction which pulls coolant back from the reservoir.

What happens when there's air in the system? Let's note that some cars can automatically expel air from the system while a lot of cars can't. As the coolant heats up, the air also expands and comes out through the radiator cover. This is that bubbling you see when you running an engine for the first time after the cooling system was breeched. It is advice able to run the engine to operating temperature with the radiator cover open to let as much air out as possible.

When there's air in the system: Air is very compressible and therefore the required pressure in the system will never be achieved. Note that one of the benefits of the high pressure in the system is that it raises the boiling point of the coolant (water component) to prevent boiling. Air also conducts heat much less than coolant, so the engine will have hot spots, which is a killer.

Running the system with a full reservoir: The reservoir is designed to let excess coolant overflow. Some will actually have overflow pipe, while others will just have overflow hole. There's NO VALVE. As the engine heats up and the coolant in the radiator expands, the reservoir should have enough space to contain the excess. If not, the excess will overflow. It is as simple as that. So filling the reservoir to full is not a big deal, it's just a waste of coolant.
Running with an empty reservoir: The reservoir, apart from being a reservoir, also has the function of being an air seal. Meaning that it prevents air from being sucked back into the radiator as the coolant cools and contracts. So running it empty means air can be sucked back into the radiator as things cool down. You do not want that to happen.

IN ALL THESE, THERE'S ABSOLUTELY NO WAY THAT FILLING THE RESERVOIR WILL CAUSE OVERHEATING.
I stand to be corrected.

Macmilla:

There's A LOT of misinformation in this write-up.
Yest the cooling system is a closed pressurized system, but the reservoir is NOT part of the pressurized system. The pressure in the system is regulated by the cover of the radiator (Yes, the radiator cover is more than just a cover). When the engine is running and therefore heating up, the water starts expanding and the pressure in the system starts rising. When the pressure gets to a set point, the release valve in the radiator cover lets the excess water push past it and INTO THE RESERVOIR.
When you turn off the engine and it starts cooling down, the coolant starts contracting. This contraction creates suction which pulls coolant back from the reservoir.

What happens when there's air in the system? Let's note that some cars can automatically expel air from the system while a lot of cars can't. As the coolant heats up, the air also expands and comes out through the radiator cover. This is that bubbling you see when you running an engine for the first time after the cooling system was breeched. It is advice able to run the engine to operating temperature with the radiator cover open to let as much air out as possible.

When there's air in the system: Air is very compressible and therefore the required pressure in the system will never be achieved. Note that one of the benefits of the high pressure in the system is that it raises the boiling point of the coolant (water component) to prevent boiling. Air also conducts heat much less than coolant, so the engine will have hot spots, which is a killer.

Running the system with a full reservoir: The reservoir is designed to let excess coolant overflow. Some will actually have overflow pipe, while others will just have overflow hole. There's NO VALVE. As the engine heats up and the coolant in the radiator expands, the reservoir should have enough space to contain the excess. If not, the excess will overflow. It is as simple as that. So filling the reservoir to full is not a big deal, it's just a waste of coolant.
Running with an empty reservoir: The reservoir, apart from being a reservoir, also has the function of being an air seal. Meaning that it prevents air from being sucked back into the radiator as the coolant cools and contracts. So running it empty means air can be sucked back into the radiator as things cool down. You do not want that to happen.

IN ALL THESE, THERE'S ABSOLUTELY NO WAY THAT FILLING THE RESERVOIR WILL CAUSE OVERHEATING.
I stand to be corrected.

You're correct.

Macmilla:

There's A LOT of misinformation in this write-up.
Yest the cooling system is a closed pressurized system, but the reservoir is NOT part of the pressurized system. The pressure in the system is regulated by the cover of the radiator (Yes, the radiator cover is more than just a cover). When the engine is running and therefore heating up, the water starts expanding and the pressure in the system starts rising. When the pressure gets to a set point, the release valve in the radiator cover lets the excess water push past it and INTO THE RESERVOIR.
When you turn off the engine and it starts cooling down, the coolant starts contracting. This contraction creates suction which pulls coolant back from the reservoir.

What happens when there's air in the system? Let's note that some cars can automatically expel air from the system while a lot of cars can't. As the coolant heats up, the air also expands and comes out through the radiator cover. This is that bubbling you see when you running an engine for the first time after the cooling system was breeched. It is advice able to run the engine to operating temperature with the radiator cover open to let as much air out as possible.

When there's air in the system: Air is very compressible and therefore the required pressure in the system will never be achieved. Note that one of the benefits of the high pressure in the system is that it raises the boiling point of the coolant (water component) to prevent boiling. Air also conducts heat much less than coolant, so the engine will have hot spots, which is a killer.

Running the system with a full reservoir: The reservoir is designed to let excess coolant overflow. Some will actually have overflow pipe, while others will just have overflow hole. There's NO VALVE. As the engine heats up and the coolant in the radiator expands, the reservoir should have enough space to contain the excess. If not, the excess will overflow. It is as simple as that. So filling the reservoir to full is not a big deal, it's just a waste of coolant.
Running with an empty reservoir: The reservoir, apart from being a reservoir, also has the function of being an air seal. Meaning that it prevents air from being sucked back into the radiator as the coolant cools and contracts. So running it empty means air can be sucked back into the radiator as things cool down. You do not want that to happen.

IN ALL THESE, THERE'S ABSOLUTELY NO WAY THAT FILLING THE RESERVOIR WILL CAUSE OVERHEATING.
I stand to be corrected.

Maybe you missed it in my prior writeup but let me pen it down here again for you to see below . . .

DO NOT FILL THE COOLANT OVERFLOW CONTAINER UNTIL YOU HAVE PROPERLY BLED THE COOLING SYSTEM TO REDUCE THE RISK OF OVERHEATING

Did you see what I typed above? I specifically told him not to fill up his coolant overflow container UNTIL HE HAS PROPERLY BLED THE COOLING SYSTEM OFF AIR . I never said he should be driving around with an empty coolant reservoir. Maybe you didn't comprehend my post well.

And back to your other take on an overfilled coolant reservoir causing overheating, I myself have experimented on it and experienced it with several vehicles I've personally driven over the years.

I don't know how long you've been driving or how many types of vehicles you've maintained to reach your own conclusion on the matter so I will only let the principle of experience is the best teacher prevail in a debate like this

Pls house any idea on the price of engine seat for Honda civic 2009

kingreign:
.e dey decive computer to think say motor get Catalytic converter when e no get.

I dey sell am sha.

Baba, how much are you selling the spacer, does it also come with miniature catalyst?

Stubborn82:

Baba, how much are you selling the spacer, does it also come with miniature catalyst?

The type I have left do not have the mini cats. I'm selling the ones I have for 15k only.

kingreign:


The type I have left do not have the mini cats. I'm selling the ones I have for 15k only.

Baba abeg make I give you10k, I need that spacer badly

Stubborn82:

Baba abeg make I give you10k, I need that spacer badly

Lol, keep your 10k. I suppose Jack the price up to 20k but I'm selling it at 15k which is a loss.

Stubborn82:

Baba abeg make I give you10k, I need that spacer badly

It's like you don't have anything to do with money. Wetin no reach 3k on Jumia. Remove the spaces

https://www.jum ia.co m.ng/acara-1pcs-oxygen-o2-sensor-spacer-adapter-bung-catalytic-converter-fix-check-engine-light-147153932.html

Itsrm:


It's like you don't have anything to do with money. Wetin no reach 3k on Jumia. Remove the spaces

https://www.jum ia.co m.ng/acara-1pcs-oxygen-o2-sensor-spacer-adapter-bung-catalytic-converter-fix-check-engine-light-147153932.html

thank you so much, God bless you

Good morning everyone. Scanned my gear and P1768 and P1773 popped. Solenoids A & B failure. What's the remedy?

Scanned results for Honda eod 05 model
P0113,p0135,p0335,p0705 p lease I need solution

Good morning bosses .. I noticed something in my car this morning, I drove it out myself but only for me to park and I wanted to put it back and drive .. although the gear is in the drive .. the car isn’t on drive it appears that the gear selector is loose. Anyone know how this happened and the fix

fecosequence:
Scanned results for Honda eod 05 model
P0113,p0135,p0335,p0705 p lease I need solution

what is wrong with your car?

jamesope04:
Good morning everyone. Scanned my gear and P1768 and P1773 popped. Solenoids A & B failure. What's the remedy?

what car? best solution is replacing the gear

Good Morning House.

I am here again because of my 2004 Honda Accord that's guzzling fuel, couple time that I scanned the car, the only code I have was P0010.

But after someone recommended another mechanic to me yesterday, I went there, he scanned the car and the car brought two other codes in addition to the previous the codes are;

P0010
P0172
P0122

The mechanic said to fix everything will cost me 60k including getting another tokunbo injector mouth cos there is an issue with the TPS (throttle position sensor)

He also said something about the car timing, that the engine has been tampered with I don't know how that's possible because I replaced the engine and gear over a year ago.

I need advise if this is the way to go, if this cost of repair isn't outrageous and will this solve the issue of fuel guzzling?

Thank you all for your response.

PS: engine is 4plug 2.4 engine.