swagifted:
omo which kind of fear be this now.

That's no fear sir. na honest advice.

I keep discouraging people from hybrid inverters but una no dey like hear. una prefer that person wey dey tell una wetin una wan hear.

With my small knowledge in repairs, and the fact I play with these things a lot, I'm opportuned to know which is which. Marketers or those wey dey find your money no go tell you such.

Obnoxious2001:


On this thread no body talks about it.

You will hear buy premium gadgets.
Even premium dey suffer and Na your pocket e go hear am.

By the way am not putting fear in anybody mind, it just a reminder that buy/go for products that the parts can be replaced

even premium sef get level.

Hybrid600:
🤣🤣🤣
No be fear, just a beautiful warning to protect the devices and investment. Cost of repairs these days no dey pocket friendly.

For those willing to set up new installations, always consider protection ( a very good earthing) for your devices and investments to avoid stories that pierces the heart and mind.

especially since we no get plenty knowledgeable + capable repairers for country

Obnoxious2001:

E no get name oh.
Na cut and join.

The transformer and casing is genus.
Board is gks Abi GSK.

I will post the board picture when I find it.

I have been studying this stuff for some time now. I

best of different worlds. Some noNames dey make sense only if opportuned to discover them

mctfopt:



You may be right. But most people are just happy to have power that they don't even care the purity of their power supply.

Like MOST of those people said, depends on your requirements + e get proof say e dey work. unlike the many premium shiny boxes promoted that doesn't work most times.

if you've been using something for over 4-years with no issue, then it works. Mind you, same UPS powers comuters with delicate components.

Even TVs and some appliances of nowadays are built around the fact power ain't often clean hence all you need do is suppy it the required voltage + current and the appliance's internal circuitry does the rest.

Personally, I don't use it though have used it back in the days BUT e get those (more than 7 people) wey still dey use am years after I set am up for them.

Some get money BUT no trust solar to spend much WHILE some others want solar BUT don't have much.
If using UPS is able to cut down their costs while deliverying as expected, then so be it.

More ain't always better, and Better ain't always More

mvphenryeto5:


Why is it that lighten don't spoil Cc it's only inverters they affect

charge controllers most deals with DC current + not as exposed as inverters because internal circuitry of the charge controller has been designed to quickly shutOff when surge is detected wether from failure or from lightening.

Also Lightening mostly affects things having more conductors in them and by look of things, an inverter has much more better conductors in them than a charge controller

bassdow:

charge controllers most deals with DC current + not as exposed as inverters because internal circuitry of the charge controller has been designed to quickly shutOff when surge is detected wether from failure or from lightening.

Also Lightening mostly affects things having more conductors in them and by look of things, an inverter has much more better conductors in them than a charge controller

I don't think this is why.

The question is how come is controller MCU architecture more protected (even in thunder strike, you don't need to reset it).

Aside from drivers flashing (this is probably as a result of over voltage) Na that MCU be the main thing

Good evening my bosses.. So I set up a 12v system that comprises of
1. 12v 1000w sachet inverter
2. 1 100ah battery

But in getting a solar panel I got 320 watt solar panel for future upgrades opportunities..
And I am using a pwm 30amps charge controller.

Problem come dey.. I don't get more than 4.5a from my solar panel. Which is not enough to charge my battery talk less of giving me enough power to use during the day...

Please my bosses what is the most cost effective way for me to go. I need my battery charged and also have enough head room to use a fan at least.. Please I need your inpits

Akbil:



https://www.cworth-energy.com/phoenix/admin/download?fileId=gAKfpOUvSCoM&dp=GvUApKfKKUAU

Thanks!! But the link says incorrect referer or something.

Therealx24:
Recommend a company that installs solar for businesses on installation payment plan.

Chat me on what's

Obnoxious2001:


I don't think this is why.

The question is how come is controller MCU architecture more protected (even in thunder strike, you don't need to reset it).

Aside from drivers flashing (this is probably as a result of over voltage) Na that MCU be the main thing

The basic characteristics nature of every controller and inverter, is to perform voltage and current conversation and as regards the purpose (being a controller or an inverter), they have different configuration / topology of achieving such conversation.

To make my argument simple and less technical, and since most of us are well aware that inverters / charge controller are all glorified power converters (DC-dc or dc-ac or whatever), I will assume that for majority of these inverters / controller, they have internally, two groups of switches, of which one, and only one group must be switched on at any time. If for any reason both are on at same time.. big bang. This timing is usually controlled by an MCU (typically) connected via 'drivers'. You don't necessarily need a direct hit to make them miss calculate, just EM radiation from nearby strike can make some lose focus and most probably hang!! The MCU can hang leaving both groups of switches on! (That's why you'll need a reset for those that survived and can't self reset).

1. Lighting usually strike at night (controller is not charging, even if both switch are forced to turn on, no power from solar that will make them blow up).
Your inverter is most likely turned on / connected to a power source (the battery).

2. Even if strikes occurred during the day time, Most controller are designed to shut cct the panel to find the Maximum point, so the the two groups switches coming on at same time might survive the current rush (and it's usually not sunny when it rains).

3. All my assumptions are base on non direct hit by lightning oo. I am not sure that even the so called branded names will survive a direct hit! (Controller and inverter inclusive).

PS: just my theories.

Queed:


The basic characteristics nature of every controller and inverter, is to perform voltage and current conversation and as regards the purpose (being a controller or an inverter), they have different configuration / topology of achieving such conversation.

To make my argument simple and less technical, and since most of us are well aware that inverters / charge controller are all glorified power converters (DC-dc or dc-ac or whatever), I will assume that for majority of these inverters / controller, they have internally, two groups of switches, of which one, and only one group must be switched on at any time. If for any reason both are on at same time.. big bang. This timing is usually controlled by an MCU (typically) connected via 'drivers'. You don't necessarily need a direct hit to make them miss calculate, just EM radiation from nearby strike can make some lose focus and most probably hang!! The MCU can hang leaving both groups of switches on! (That's why you'll need a reset for those that survived and can't self reset).

1. Lighting usually strike at night (controller is not charging, even if both switch are forced to turn on, no power from solar that will make them blow up).
Your inverter is most likely turned on / connected to a power source (the battery).

2. Even if strikes occurred during the day time, Most controller are designed to shut cct the panel to find the Maximum point, so the the two groups switches coming on at same time might survive the current rush (and it's usually not sunny when it rains).

3. All my assumptions are base on non direct hit by lightning oo. I am not sure that even the so called branded names will survive a direct hit! (Controller and inverter inclusive).

PS: just my theories.

I agree with all except the battery part
(Cc and inverter are both connected to the battery. In situations where inverter self is not working, it still used to be affected by lightning)

Obnoxious2001:


I agree with all except the battery part
(Cc and inverter are both connected to the battery. In situations where inverter self is not working, it still used to be affected by lightning)

That was why I said,

"Your inverter is most likely turned on / connected to a power source (the battery)."

It's still connected to a power (battery) source even when switched off those switches (Most likely MOSFETs) can still falsely come on.

The battery is not the primary source for a controller, current is supposed to flow from panel to the battery and not the other way round. The switches being short circuited are on the panel side.

Ok.. thanks. Spoke to Valto earlier today and we've made some arrangements.

isangjohnson:

Zero8zeronine5six7four2six2.
The coupled 302ah 48v has been bought.
What is left now is the 16 pcs of 230ah eve cells and 8 pcs of 100ah eve cells.
You can get 16 pcs of 280ah from Valto and we can couple it for you as well.

Queed:


That was why I said,

"Your inverter is most likely turned on / connected to a power source (the battery)."

It's still connected to a power (battery) source even when switched off those switches (Most likely MOSFETs) can still falsely come on.

The battery is not the primary source for a controller, current is supposed to flow from panel to the battery and not the other way round. The switches being short circuited are on the panel side.

Okay.
All this our many speculation

You do electronics?

princely009:
Ok.. thanks. Spoke to Valto earlier today and we've made some arrangements.

That is good

@bassdow

Gshems:
Good evening my bosses.. So I set up a 12v system that comprises of
1. 12v 1000w sachet inverter
2. 1 100ah battery

But in getting a solar panel I got 320 watt solar panel for future upgrades opportunities..
And I am using a pwm 30amps charge controller.

Problem come dey.. I don't get more than 4.5a from my solar panel. Which is not enough to charge my battery talk less of giving me enough power to use during the day...

Please my bosses what is the most cost effective way for me to go. I need my battery charged and also have enough head room to use a fan at least.. Please I need your inpits

Gshems:
Good evening my bosses.. So I set up a 12v system that comprises of
1. 12v 1000w sachet inverter
2. 1 100ah battery

But in getting a solar panel I got 320 watt solar panel for future upgrades opportunities..
And I am using a pwm 30amps charge controller.

Problem come dey.. I don't get more than 4.5a from my solar panel. Which is not enough to charge my battery talk less of giving me enough power to use during the day...

Please my bosses what is the most cost effective way for me to go. I need my battery charged and also have enough head room to use a fan at least.. Please I need your inpits

without thinking at all, I spot an issue. Using a single (1pcs) 300w Solar panel to reCharge a 12v 200AH battery. try using 2pcs of that 300w solar panel.

Also that your 30amp PWM charge controller fit be toy, not to talf of the fact it might not even be up to 30amp.

Meanwhile, we don't know quality of your solar Panel. e fit be fake or overrated or

Gshems:
Good evening my bosses.. So I set up a 12v system that comprises of
1. 12v 1000w sachet inverter
2. 1 100ah battery

But in getting a solar panel I got 320 watt solar panel for future upgrades opportunities..
And I am using a pwm 30amps charge controller.

Problem come dey.. I don't get more than 4.5a from my solar panel. Which is not enough to charge my battery talk less of giving me enough power to use during the day...

Please my bosses what is the most cost effective way for me to go. I need my battery charged and also have enough head room to use a fan at least.. Please I need your inpits

using solar panel of 200w and above on a 12-volts system doesn't really work well. it's OKAY managing it that way if you have plans adding more panels later.

Now that your charge controller na toy abeg. whenever buying a charge controller, e specially if it's PWM, always aim for anywhere 50amps and above.

Most of those PWM charge controllers are overrated, also when the sun comes out well and the solar panel starts generated more output, some would be tripping OFF & ON. You easily could tell that from the Solar Panel indicator on the charge controller.

Let's equally not forget solar panel positioning - we have no idea how and where it was mounted

bassdow:

without thinking at all, I spot an issue. Using a single (1pcs) 300w Solar panel to reCharge a 12v 200AH battery. try using 2pcs of that 300w solar panel.

Also that your 30amp PWM charge controller fit be toy, not to talf of the fact it might not even be up to 30amp.

Meanwhile, we don't know quality of your solar Panel. e fit be fake or overrated or

E don happen. Am installer was the one that got the panel. New one..

bassdow:

without thinking at all, I spot an issue. Using a single (1pcs) 300w Solar panel to reCharge a 12v 200AH battery. try using 2pcs of that 300w solar panel.

Also that your 30amp PWM charge controller fit be toy, not to talf of the fact it might not even be up to 30amp.

Meanwhile, we don't know quality of your solar Panel. e fit be fake or overrated or

my battery is a 100ah

Gshems:


E don happen. Am installer was the one that got the panel. New one..

Do you have a picture of the panel face?

bassdow:

That's no fear sir. na honest advice.

I keep discouraging people from hybrid inverters but una no dey like hear. una prefer that person wey dey tell una wetin una wan hear.

With my small knowledge in repairs, and the fact I play with these things a lot, I'm opportuned to know which is which. Marketers or those wey dey find your money no go tell you such.

so for peace of mind make person just go with transformer based abi...

For Sale @ Giveaway prices

👉 Mppt charge controller 100A 12v/24v/48v

👉 DC Digital Meter - 200A with shunt
It can be used to measure Dc input and output current, Volt, Watt and Watt hour

It can also be used to check if the advertised Ah and Wh of a newly purchased battery is what you actually get.so that you won't get ripped off
Confirm by yourself if what you buy is not 100ah labelled as 200ah

And you can also use it to measure the amount of Ah and Wh that is left in your used battery.


Call or WhatsApp- 08035537864 if you are interested in any of the above

Pictures here:
https://www.nairaland.com/8028084/100a-mppt-solar-charge-controller

Since u got 300w panel just get mppt join since u don get plan for future expansion. 300w is not ok for 12v system with pwm unless u can get a 20a buck converter, install it with cooling fan n place it between Ur panel n pwm.

Gshems:
Good evening my bosses.. So I set up a 12v system that comprises of
1. 12v 1000w sachet inverter
2. 1 100ah battery

But in getting a solar panel I got 320 watt solar panel for future upgrades opportunities..
And I am using a pwm 30amps charge controller.

Problem come dey.. I don't get more than 4.5a from my solar panel. Which is not enough to charge my battery talk less of giving me enough power to use during the day...

Please my bosses what is the most cost effective way for me to go. I need my battery charged and also have enough head room to use a fan at least.. Please I need your inpits

Trippledots:


Do you have a picture of the panel face?

yes

Jefferyzz:
Since u got 300w panel just get mppt join since u don get plan for future expansion. 300w is not ok for 12v system with pwm unless u can get a 20a buck converter, install it with cooling fan n place it between Ur panel n pwm.

This sounds a bit technical.. Tho I just checked and it looks like a viable option but too technical for me

Ur panel is clear a high voltage low amp pairing a pwm with it is a bad decision, get mppt n hope Ur panels are facing south n there's space for air under Ur panel

Gshems:
This sounds a bit technical.. Tho I just checked and it looks like a viable option but too technical for me

Gshems:
yes

The panel looks authentic.

Someone above has given you the best solution to your problem.

Buck converter is the cheapest way to improve your yield, or buy an MPPT controller.

Guys, please how do I go about these set up:


Fridge= 100W (are these fridge ratings even real. Isn't this too low?)
Laptop Charger = 90W
Phone chargers= Approximately 100W
Television= 75W
Standing Fan= 30W
Sound Bar=120W
Ceiling fan= 100 Watts
Sound Bar = 120Watts
Bulbs=150Watts

Plus

Inverter AC=1.5 hp or 1119W (Considering that inverter ACs can be carried by even medium size Generators, should I really plan for exactly 1.5hp?).

Total= 765 Watts + 1119W = 1884Watts


I already have a 60amps MPPT (Powmr).
How many watts of solar panels will take?
What KVA inverter will be fine for it?
How many ah of lithium battery?

Thank you

Please help me check all this 250w solar panels i want to get it from someone and how can i read it to know is accurate

Jefferyzz:
Since u got 300w panel just get mppt join since u don get plan for future expansion. 300w is not ok for 12v system with pwm unless u can get a 20a buck converter, install it with cooling fan n place it between Ur panel n pwm.

please can you walk me through how to get the buck converter and fan then how to connect it