[quote author=obinna37 post=129230297][/quote] stocks leaving

Pls house, some one want to buy 420w solar panel,he is considering between bifacial and monofacial which is better,I have tested the two, bifacial is reading high in voltage and current

obinna37:
Pls house, some one want to buy 420w solar panel,he is considering between bifacial and monofacial which is better,I have tested the two, bifacial is reading high in voltage and current

It depends on the mounting platform

obinna37:
Pls house, some one want to buy 420w solar panel,he is considering between bifacial and monofacial which is better,I have tested the two, bifacial is reading high in voltage and current

Bifacial is not for us here.

Obnoxious2001:


It depends on the mounting platform

ok, but the two was place on the position, the bifacial has a higher current,and two solar panel are 420w half cut

Oshomo12:


Bifacial is not for us here.

but it can work as well, because most buyer's that came are buying it

I need a solar installer in Benin city.
Somebody please recommend someone that is good for me, please. 🙏🏼

apexquest:
I need a solar installer in Benin city.
Somebody please recommend someone that is good for me, please. 🙏🏼

If you don't mind I can come over.
I reside in warri

U can dm me or drop ur contact

MeinKampf:
I need a very good solar inverter engineer in Ibadan or that can work at Ibadan

Solar installers, tinubu say it is your turn to shine. Shine on.

I need this Powmr charge controller. Let me know the price.

EduTechTainMent:


You mean you exceeded the maximum wattage rating for the cc?

In his case with a 60A cc, the maximum PV wattage supported should be (12V * 60A) 720w. His installer fed the cc with (180 * 6) 1080w from the panels.

Is the cc a pwm or mppt?

It’s a pwm charge controller.

mctfopt:



In some controllers, you can exceed the maximum rated wattage with no damage to the controller, but the issue is that the excess panels are just there doing no job. Eg if the maximum rated by a 60A controller @ 12v is 720w and you have 1200w PV connected to it. At most what you'll get out of it is that 720w, the remaining 480w PV is just there outside doing no work.

Makes sense. So is your recommendation to trim down to 4x 180w panels? The main need is just to be able to run the small fridge and computers and fan during the day. Or the fridge to run on battery overnight while computers and fan runs during the day.

Dam5reey:


Your Solar Charge controller is a Cheap PWM type, they get so hot as they can barely handle what they are rated for. this 60A CC shouldn't handle more than 20 to 30A input as its elcheapo..
6, 180W Panel is pushing close to 60A to the Charge controller that's why it gets burnt.


Get an MPPT charge controller and change the Solar configuration to 3s2P. current will be reduced at input and you will be able to charge your batteries more efficiently.

Thank you sooo much!!! I’ll forward this. We went with pwm considering its just a small 12v system. Can you recommend a good pwm charge controller brand?

isangjohnson:
I need this Powmr charge controller. Let me know the price.

122k but will manage 120k

balogunsam:


Makes sense. So is your recommendation to trim down to 4x 180w panels? The main need is just to be able to run the small fridge and computers and fan during the day. Or the fridge to run on battery overnight while computers and fan runs during the day.

Reduce to size the controller can handle or buy a bigger controller to accommodate more PV.

balogunsam:


Thank you sooo much!!! I’ll forward this. We went with pwm considering its just a small 12v system. Can you recommend a good pwm charge controller brand?

https://jiji dot ng/ikorodu/solar-energy-products/solar-charge-controller-pwm-12v-24v-60a-8kea1RWF09HwJ1DpF2cLEa2u.html?page=2&pos=14&cur_pos=14&ads_per_page=20&ads_count=42&lid=D8jocL_s5TWWfMHY&indexPosition=13

Dam5reey:


Exactly my guess, You are only using 3 panels.. all these while..
A PWM controller provides your batteries with the maximum available current, wasting excess Voltage.
So you connected 60V 24.6A to a PWM. Even in full Sun, it will supply your batteries with 28V at 24.6A. excess voltages or 3 extra panels wasted.

But if you do it all in Parallel. You will have 30.8V at 49.2A input and your batteries will charge at 28V at 49.2A.
Here you are pushing too much current, you need High Guage Wires, which is expensive!

With MPPT, you can maintain the 2 in series and 3 set in parallel.
With MPPT, you are receiving the same 60V 24.6A.. your batteries will receive 28V at about 49.2A.. because MPPT will converter excess Voltage to current.


2. When you say MPPTs are expensive.. and you are only getting 840 watts from a possible 1680w..?
You can use PWM. But connect it properly and size the cable properly too.

When I was using a PWM Controller on 24V system, I purposely Bought 280W panels with 30V VMP... and a higher current.
Because I understand how to optimize each Device wether PWM or MPPT. it's all about understanding.

3. Yes, 30.8VMP is the sweet spot for 24V if you are using PWM.

Spot on.

Dam5reey:


Exactly my guess, You are only using 3 panels.. all these while..
A PWM controller provides your batteries with the maximum available current, wasting excess Voltage.
So you connected 60V 24.6A to a PWM. Even in full Sun, it will supply your batteries with 28V at 24.6A. excess voltages or 3 extra panels wasted.

But if you do it all in Parallel. You will have 30.8V at 49.2A input and your batteries will charge at 28V at 49.2A.
Here you are pushing too much current, you need High Guage Wires, which is expensive!

With MPPT, you can maintain the 2 in series and 3 set in parallel.
With MPPT, you are receiving the same 60V 24.6A.. your batteries will receive 28V at about 49.2A.. because MPPT will converter excess Voltage to current.


2. When you say MPPTs are expensive.. and you are only getting 840 watts from a possible 1680w..?
You can use PWM. But connect it properly and size the cable properly too.

When I was using a PWM Controller on 24V system, I purposely Bought 280W panels with 30V VMP... and a higher current.
Because I understand how to optimize each Device wether PWM or MPPT. it's all about understanding.

3. Yes, 30.8VMP is the sweet spot for 24V if you are using PWM.

Spot on

60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller available.

Comes with free DC digital voltage meter worth 3,000

Price: 103,000 firm

1600w (800w) Pure Sine Wave Easun Inverter (12v/24v) with free pair of cable lugs. The cable lugs will come in handy if you do not want to use the alligator clips or you want to "wear" the inverter cables over your battery terminals and lock them in with terminal covers

From my personal experience and for context, it can power a small to medium-sized non-inverter deep freezer (100litres and lower; put on the freezer first before other appliances), 10kg top-loader washing machine and 55" Hisense Smart TV all at once. It also powers a blending machine, and even a toasting machine separately

Key Features:
- Peak power 16000w; Continuous 800w
- Offgrid. This means it has no charging function. You need an external charger to charge your batteries. You will be fine if you are connected to solar
- Consumes very low power (<5w) from your batteries to invert, so you will get more backup time from your batteries
- Protection against overload. It only trips off with an alarm sound and light when overloaded, but returns to normal working when you switch off and on again.
- Protection against surges from sparks, partial contacts and reverse polarity connections

Price: 72,000
Warranty: 6 months.

Eve 105ah lifepo4 lithium battery cells available
GOTION 300AH lifepo4 lithium battery cells available at affordable prices. discount on quantity.

whatsapp 08020574628 or telegram@vvalto

What's the max capacity of this product you have?

Iinnov8:
60A Powmr MPPT Solar Charge Controller available.

Comes with free DC digital voltage meter worth 3,000

Price: 103,000 firm

Who has installed solar for something like this before?

What kind of solar set up will be able to power an ice block machine with 4 units of 2hp ACs ?
Each AC is estimated at 1500w and will be used during the day when there is no power and sparingly at night.

Nice dashboard!

While on the topic, please is anyone uploading from nodered or MQTT to pvoutput? If yes, can you help share your flow? Feeling a bit lazy and not wanting to re-invent any wheels.

Thanks!

cc @Oga Dapsyra @Bigbrovar @Ojesky @isangjohnson

babaegun:
My dashboard today...

Solar is sweet..

All thanks to Oga Dapsyra (Senior Mentor), Bigbrovar (Senior Mentor), Ojesky (Senior Mentor, node-red master), isangjohnson (assisted me in getting a good price with my Eve batteries.) & zeestone99 (soft spoken, gentle and very reliable shipping Master. He got my Eve batteries to Abuja seamlessly ).

AC 24/7. Life is good.

I hail all our great solar gurus here.
I want to join the solar train now.
I already have a 4.2KVA 48V Genus inverter system with 4 units of 12V 200Ah Genus tubular batteries .
The next steps is to add panels and MPPT and the rest.
From what I have read here, I don’t want to over- invest and have wasted voltage capacity or underinvest.
I am buying Jinko panels from Fouani because I can access at dealer price.
I have options of 475W , 550W, 580W or 625W panels.
My installer is recommending just 6 panels to be connected in 3s2P.
Please which of the solar panel wattages above do you recommend I pick.
He also recommended 60A cc MPPT ( but I am thinking of 80A). Kindly advise

ozone0801:
Anyone has a small used inverter for sale.
1.5kw to 2.5kw, maybe an old design, non hybrid, I don't mind.
I actually need two
1kw to 1.5kw 12V
And 1.9kw to 2.5kw 24V

1KVA available. Going for 130K
You can contact me on 0.8 0.7666 1805

Please Help 🙏🙏
I have two brand new 200 watts panel connected in parallel, both panels have a maximum power current of 11 amp. But when i connect it to my pwm 60A charge controller, they both produce around 5-7 amps total instead of 22A. What could be the problem?

Emmypam:
Please Help 🙏🙏
I have two brand new 200 watts panel connected in parallel, both panels have a maximum power current of 11 amp. But when i connect it to my pwm 60A charge controller, they both produce around 5-7 amps total instead of 22A. What could be the problem?

I have not seen a 200W panel with 11A meaning the maximum voltage is 18.1V.

It's probably over rated on label

Good days bosses. Please I need your advise. Does anyone have experience with the AJC hybrid inverter? I humbly request your recommendations.

Danibestguy:
Good days bosses. Please I need your advise. Does anyone have experience with the AJC hybrid inverter? I humbly request your recommendations.

This is a very good Budget inverter don't expect much, it will provide 220V to your load.

Its a generic branded Chinese inverter.

jonescosmos:


WHEN YOUR AC LINE IS FROZEN, THIS IS WHAT IS LIKELY HAPPENING.

This can be attributed to several variables. These include low refrigerant, refrigerant leaks, accumulation of dirt on coils, dirty filters, and other restrictions of air flow from your system.

Perhaps you have noticed that your AC isn’t quite cooling your home the way it should. Temperatures are rising indoors and you go outside to check your unit and see if you can find the problem.

Despite the summer temperatures, you notice that your AC line is frozen and covered in ice. One or more factors might be causing a frozen AC line.

Poor Airflow over the Evaporator Coil
When the evaporator coils on an air conditioning unit become too cold, the ac unit pipes freeze. This is the primary reason behind frozen AC lines. The evaporator coils inside an air conditioning unit are filled with refrigerant. A properly functioning AC system extracts the warm air from inside your home and sends it through your air conditioner, where the evaporator coils cool the warm air, then redistribute it back into the home.

If the airflow leading into the air conditioner is obstructed, it can cause the evaporator coils to become too cold, therefore causing the copper lines attached to your condenser to freeze. Here are some common factors as to why an air conditioning system can develop poor airflow:

Dirty Air Filter
You should be changing your air filter on a monthly basis. If it becomes dirty and clogged, it will prevent air from flowing through the unit and allow the coils to freeze.

Supply Vents are Closed
Some homeowners assume that closing supply vents in rooms that aren’t being used will put less stress on their unit and lower their utility bills. However, this practice can limit air flow and lead air conditioners to freeze.

Return Vents are Blocked
Vents are also used to suck air into the unit and play an important role in proper air flow These can also become blocked and cause the unit to malfunction.

Broken Fan or Blower
A broken fan won’t be able to send enough air over the evaporator coil. The fan is responsible for not only pulling warm air into the system but also pushing cold air into the home through the ductwork and vents. When something goes wrong with the blower motor or fan, your AC system will stop working properly, it will become difficult to cool your home and your AC line could freeze.

Dirty Evaporator Coil
Just as dirt can block the air filter and cause problems, a dirty evaporator coil will also prevent proper air flow. Regular maintenance will help you avoid this problem.

What to do:
Regardless of the refrigerant leak cause, it’s nearly impossible for a homeowner to resolve the problem independently. Refrigerant is a dangerous chemical, and only professional technicians should handle it.

Nevertheless, to troubleshoot any of these potential issues, follow these steps.

1. First, check your vents. These include the air vents that push air into your spaces and the return vents that pull air back through your AC system. Make sure they are clean, open, and unobstructed.
2 Then, check your air filter to ensure it is clean and allows air to flow through. AC system air filters will be inside of your return vents. When you open the vent cover, visually inspect the filter. If it is brown or covered in dirt and lint that you can see, it’s probably time to replace it.
3. Next, you’ll check the blower fan for your air conditioner. To do this, go to the thermostat that controls the AC unit and switch it from COOL to OFF. Then, locate the fan controls on the thermostat and switch the fan from AUTO to ON. When your fan is “ON,” it will blow air even if the AC isn’t running a cooling cycle. Doing so means more warm air will blow over the evaporator coils to help defrost the pipes. Leave the fan ON and the AC system OFF for 3 to 4 hours before turning the system back to COOL.
4. If you still see ice on the pipes after completing the first 3 steps, it’s time to call in experts. An AC technician can inspect your vents and the inside of your AC system to see if they are the cause of your issue.

Thanks for your response, I don't know if you have any idea of a good technician around lagos, the ones I’m seeing are not trustworthy or maybe they no sabi the work