Sapiosexuality:
What could be responsible for an inverter reading 0 watts when the sun in early morning sun. I noticed these fluctuations yesterday. It moves from 1.5kw to 500 and even to 100w and less. What could be the problem?

This is SAKO SUNON PRO, maybe Low Input Voltage.

Whenever you see low output from your panels, always check the PV Input Current & Voltage; then multiply both to see if it matches what you see as the output in Watts.

kristien4:
Thanks boss. I appreciate the info. I wanted to ask, if i add 4 more batteries to make it 8pieces. That's 4s2p(400ah), can i increase the charging current too?

If the battery is less than 3 months you installed the system, you can add more batteries, provided you buy same battery Ah, model and ensure they are same voltage before you connect them together.

TechGeek777:


This is SAKO SUNON PRO, maybe Low Input Voltage.

Whenever you see low output from your panels, always check the PV Input Current & Voltage; then multiply both to see if it matches what you see as the output in Watts.

Thanks. It's up now to 1kw. I was only looking at the battery input in the first place.

Dam5reey1:


Just a Note sir, C-rate is for both Charging and Discharge..

C10 is 20A operating Current for both. Not just for discharge.

Even if you charge at that 80A, the Battery voltage will rise quickly and the Charging current will start to reduce..

This will also result to inefficiency cause when sun is blasting his panels won't be able to push available energy into the battery.

That's why some systems don't last, they are boiling the battery thinking 80A is okay since it's written on it.

At 50 DOD, meaning you only need to push 100AH into the battery, it's best to charge at 20A as per C rate, so in 6-8hours your batteries should float.

Okay boss, you are very correct at bolded, but I just don't want to be more knowledgeable than the manufacturer.

Was even surprised seeing 80A, was expecting 40A Max.

Sapiosexuality:
Thanks. It's up now to 1kw. I was only looking at the battery input in the first place.

Sako Inverter is good, it's truly Axpert clone.

TechGeek777:


Sako Inverter is good, it's truly Axpert clone.

Axpert clone? Is that a good thing? Isn't Axpert another company?

durodee:
Due to my needs, I have added two other packs to the @ 5kwh pack to a total of @15kwh. Though I don't monitor daily or that frequently for that matter, I have not seen any unexpected behavior outside what is expected , based on the way I use them.
Nothing lasts forever, but one thing I never wish for is to go back to Lead acids. In Yoruba , it is called APADASIBURU (return to evil). If newer technology comes, I am very open. When I see videos of people lugging tubular batteries up and down, I tend to pity them and wonder why some people are still riding bicycles uphill when the direction to their destination is downhill.
If you have Lead acids now, by all means use them but please please my brother, there is absolutely nothing to gain by buying Lead acids in 2024.
I have used Sagem 4 sim phones before. Wonderful phone for 2005 but not for 2025. I hope you get my point.

Boss, how Una take solve the Sunking 2.5kwh packs for 11M matter?

I just saw my old mentions

TechGeek777:


Okay boss, you are very correct at bolded, but I just don't want to be more knowledgeable than the manufacturer.

Was even surprised seeing 80A, was expecting 40A Max.

@techGeek777 @Dam5ree1. The battery also has a c1 rating on a sticker placed on top, does that justify the 80A max charge?

If i be paul enenche i for don put like 2 MW of solar panels untop the roof of this church (dunamis glory dome lugbe).... The amount he will save from diesel every sunday go de astronomical... Especially as na sunday wey sun de vex too.

.

kristien4:
@techGeek777 @Dam5ree1. The battery also has a c1 rating on a sticker placed on top, does that justify the 80A max charge?

That's Discharge..

Again you have exposed more reasons why we shout LFP battery

at C10 is where you get 200AH..
At C5 you get 182AH
At C3 you get 166AH
At 1C which you never even attemp. You will only get 132AH and Voltage would have sagged to 9.6V before you can achieve that..

50A Max is the Bulk charging current just as stated 0.25CA. to prolong your batteries do only 20A, 0.1C charging

TCD:


Hello. Could you please share a picture of this Tuya energy monitoring switch you have? Also how much is it and where can one get it? Thanks

They're pretty affordable and easy to install. They are available online at AliExpre55.

Someone here, @ojeysky I think, uses Tasmota instead of Tuya, but I didn't go the Tasmota way cos of the flashing and programming it requires which I'm not adept at.

For the Tuya, you only need the app installed on your device and also a WiFi router in your home and with data subscription if you intend to do remote monitoring and control. Although without data subscription, you can only do monitoring when you're at home and your device is on the same network as the switches.

Attached are a few of the devices I have and the screenshot of the app interface on my device.

Dam5reey1:


That's Discharge..

Again you have exposed more reasons why we shout LFP battery

at C10 is where you get 200AH..
At C5 you get 182AH
At C3 you get 166AH
At 1C which you never even attemp. You will only get 132AH and Voltage would have sagged to 9.6V before you can achieve that..

50A Max is the Bulk charging current just as stated 0.25CA. to prolong your batteries do only 20A, 0.1C charging

Na wa... me thinking it was 80amps charging current all this while, to give a safe gap, i actually configured the the batteries to charge at 50amps max, not knowing i was already maxing out the 50amps charging current. I reduced it now. I just dey suffer my battery since.. . Seems i wont be adding any more lead acid battery.

Sapiosexuality:
What could be responsible for an inverter reading 0 watts when the sun in early morning sun. I noticed these fluctuations yesterday. It moves from 1.5kw to 500 and even to 100w and less. What could be the problem?

It's possible the input from your panels to the controller not yet the sufficient voltage that your CC requires, which means you'll hwve to wait past "early morning sun" a while to get to proper sun 🌞. It could also be that the connection is compromised at some point. Consider the following questions:

° Did your installer rip/cut off the MC4 connectors on that panel and do a direct naked wire connection instead? Many unlearned installers do this and with time,exposure of the junction to the elements result in compromise and reduced/interrupted voltage flow to the controller.

° Are your panels premium brand or at least one of the good ones? Were they purchssed used or new? The not-so-premium ones have bad wires on them and also bad connection to their MC4s so that with time,same thing as above 👆🏾 also happens.

° Could your MC4 connectors have partial contact at some point along the connection btw the panels?

° Are the wires from panels to controller good? Did he use the recommended stranded wires and not "NEPA" cable like some would do?

° How secured is the connection to the terminals of your charge controller?

Note that in such cases of cases as above scenarios, you may even see the correct voltage expected from your panels displayed on your CC, but you won't be seeing any amperage or powee goung into the battery.

Dam5reey1:


That's Discharge..

Again you have exposed more reasons why we shout LFP battery

at C10 is where you get 200AH..
At C5 you get 182AH
At C3 you get 166AH
At 1C which you never even attemp. You will only get 132AH and Voltage would have sagged to 9.6V before you can achieve that..

50A Max is the Bulk charging current just as stated 0.25CA. to prolong your batteries do only 20A, 0.1C charging

He didn't provide enough information.

0.25CA(25%) should ever be the highest.
50A * 48v = 2400w.

Unless he's prioritizing solar input during the day, he should add more batteries to parallel it to 4s2p (if setup is less than 3 months).

20A * 48v = 960w (This is too small the way I see his load and pv capacity)

0.15CA(30A) or 0.2CA(40A) is the best he should charge.

He should have asked these questions before buying Panels.

Due diligence is required when dealing with RE.

kristien4:
Na wa... me thinking it was 80amps charging current all this while, to give a safe gap, i actually configured the the batteries to charge at 50amps max, not knowing i was already maxing out the 50amps charging current. I reduced it now. I just dey suffer my battery since.. . Seems i wont be adding any more lead acid battery.

If Solar is only solar for charging. Leave it at 50A. Most time it won't reach, as you can see at 3900w PV input your load is taking 2000w and reaming going to battery which in return battery are only. Charging at 28A.. which is fair. Only time you will be boiling is when load is not that much.

But set grid to charge at 20A and use CSO- which is Solar charge during the day and Grid during night.

Xanderone:


It's possible the input from your panels to the controller not yet the sufficient voltage that your CC requires, which means you'll hwve to wait past "early morning sun" a while to get to proper sun 🌞. It could also be that the connection is compromised at some point. Consider the following questions:

° Did your installer rip/cut off the MC4 connectors on that panel and do a direct naked wire connection instead? Many unlearned installers do this and with time,exposure of the junction to the elements result in compromise and reduced/interrupted voltage flow to the controller.

° Are your panels premium brand or at least one of the good ones? Were they purchssed used or new? The not-so-premium ones have bad wires on them and also bad connection to their MC4s so that with time,same thing as above 👆🏾 also happens.

° Could your MC4 connectors have partial contact at some point along the connection btw the panels?

° Are the wires from panels to controller good? Did he use the recommended stranded wires and not "NEPA" cable like some would do?

° How secured is the connection to the terminals of your charge controller?

Note that in such cases of cases as above scenarios, you may even see the correct voltage expected from your panels displayed on your CC, but you won't be seeing any amperage or powee goung into the battery.

Thanks. It is fine now. I was getting 1Kw before I left this morning.

TechGeek777:


He didn't provide enough information.

0.25CA(25%) should ever be the highest.
50A * 48v = 2400w.

Unless he's prioritizing solar input during the day, he should add more batteries to parallel it to 4s2p (if setup is less than 3 months).

20A * 48v = 960w (This is too small the way I see his load and pv capacity)

0.15CA(30A) or 0.2CA(40A) is the best he should charge.

He should have asked these questions before buying Panels.

Due diligence is required when dealing with RE.

I oversized because of afternoon load which is 1.5hp inverter ac, 1 inverter freezer, 1 inverter fridge, 1 65inch tv, 2 standing fans 50w each...

Dam5reey1:


If Solar is only solar for charging. Leave it at 50A. Most time it won't reach, as you can see at 3900w PV input your load is taking 2000w and reaming going to battery which in return battery are only. Charging at 28A.. which is fair. Only time you will be boiling is when load is not that much.

But set grid to charge at 20A and use CSO- which is Solar charge during the day and Grid during night.

Okay. Thanks alot.

mctfopt:


Never paid ₦1 as custom duty for all the sea shipping I've done so far. Must've been factored into the shipping cost.

Will look into this. Thank you

Xanderone:


They're pretty affordable and easy to install. They are available online at AliExpre55.

Someone here, @ojeysky I think, uses Tasmota instead of Tuya, but I didn't go the Tasmota way cos of the flashing and programming it requires which I'm not adept at.

For the Tuya, you only need the app installed on your device and also a WiFi router in your home and with data subscription if you intend to do remote monitoring and control. Although without data subscription, you can only do monitoring when you're at home and your device is on the same network as the switches.

Attached are a few of the devices I have and the screenshot of the app interface on my device.

What I use is sonoff, it has its own firmware/app which works fine but I had to flash some with tasmota for integration with nodered. There is no nodered module that works with sonoff without internet.(Don't know if such module exist now though)

...

ojeysky:


What I use is sonoff, it has its own firmware/app which works fine but I had to flash some with tasmota for integration with nodered. There is no nodered module that works with sonoff without internet.(Don't know if such module exist now though)

Each time you talk on those stuff,you lose me at the point where you mention "flashing with Tasmota" and the "node red" thingy. 😁. I just log off at that point, because it requires some programming which sincerely I can't say I wanna even dabble into. My hands are full already and I fear that once I start dabbling into the realm of programming of any kind, I may be disappointed in myself if i dont catch up fast or if i give up along the way cos of the same problem dat precludes my foray into it - TIME.

Sapiosexuality:
PowMr 60A MPPT solar Charge controller for sale. I'm scared it may deform from lack of use. It has never been used. Got it from Odinnamdi.

Price is #120,000. DM or send a mail to hieroglyphicsra@gmail.com 09016482201

Someone mentioned few posts back that appliances may stop working if put in storage for a long time without use. Is this why you made that statement
- (deform for lack of use)?

I have a Bluetooth energy meter that I retired/disconnected from the set up about 2 years ago and actually intended to sell it that time. I later put in storage. Few days ago, I tried to reconnect it and found out the screen backlight would not work. I even thought the monitor was bad, but I was able to shine light at some angle and realized it was the backlight. This is something working perfectly before it went into storage.

Pray tell, it this school of thought so valid?

I fear cos I have spare inverters (12v, 24v, 48v) in storage for use as back-up on days when repairs (God forbid) needs to be done on main units.

Xanderone:


Each time you talk on those stuff,you lose me at the point where you mention "flashing with Tasmota" and the "node red" thingy. 😁. I just log off at that point, because it requires some programming which sincerely I can't say I wanna even dabble into. My hands are full already and I fear that once I start dabbling into the realm of programming of any kind, I may be disappointed in myself if i dont catch up fast or if i give up along the way cos of the same problem dat precludes my foray into it - TIME.

Nevermind about the tasmota aspect sonoff works perfectly off the self just like Tuya. Tasmota is a different firmware entirely that can be used on sonoff if one does not want to follow come firmware

Greetings all. Some weeks ago lightning destroyed my 3.5kva inverter and having waited for 1 week to get it repaired , the repairer said the board is bad and it will cost around 140,000 to 160,000 to get a new board and it will also take time as they will have to order it from lagos meanwhile i am in abuja.

So i decided to get a secondhand 4kva inverter.

It was installed 4days ago but my issue now is that with my formal inverter with nepa light the battery will be fully charged in less than 24hours BUT this one that is just installed have being on nepa light for 3days and not full charged

Please what could be the problem?

Kindly note that the formal inverter normally charge like phone charging .i.e it add bars continuously until fully charging but this one have being charging from buttom for days now

Is the inverter bad?

Is the connection wrong?

Is this bow some inverter charge?

Please help out

Thanks

Xanderone:


Someone mentioned few posts back that appliances may stop working if put in storage for a long time without use. Is this why you made that statement
- (deform for lack of use)?

This is very true. My 8 x 18650 charger/analyser that I bought and never used have failed to work.

My Reolink 5MP camera I bought and kept for like 2 years (forgot I had it ) has gone bad too.

Same thing happened to my heart rate monitor I bought and never used. Remembered the other day I was doubting the rate my watch gave after an exercise The thing no longer works.

All these devices no longer works after about 3 years of it been left in their pack

Can anyone explain why this happens?

These days I'm now using every electronic I have. Don't want to be caught lacking again

It might be condensation, with out humid weather especially South

mctfopt:


This is very true. My 8 x 18650 charger/analyser that I bought and never used have failed to work.

My Reolink 5MP camera I bought and kept for like 2 years (forgot I had it ) has gone bad too.

Same thing happened to my heart rate monitor I bought and never used. Remembered the other day I was doubting the rate my watch gave after an exercise The thing no longer works.

All these devices no longer works after about 3 years of it been left in their pack

Can anyone explain why this happens?


These days I'm now using every electronic I have. Don't want to be caught lacking again

The internal components of electronic devices and gadgets degrade over time. In addition, some external pollutants and other elements can accelerate the shortening of shelf life. Humidity, dust, and high temperatures are common factors affecting electronics...

mctfopt:


This is very true. My 8 x 18650 charger/analyser that I bought and never used have failed to work.

My Reolink 5MP camera I bought and kept for like 2 years (forgot I had it ) has gone bad too.

Same thing happened to my heart rate monitor I bought and never used. Remembered the other day I was doubting the rate my watch gave after an exercise The thing no longer works.

All these devices no longer works after about 3 years of it been left in their pack

Can anyone explain why this happens?

These days I'm now using every electronic I have. Don't want to be caught lacking again

Xanderone:


Someone mentioned few posts back that appliances may stop working if put in storage for a long time without use. Is this why you made that statement
- (deform for lack of use)?

I have a Bluetooth energy meter that I retired/disconnected from the set up about 2 years ago and actually intended to sell it that time. I later put in storage. Few days ago, I tried to reconnect it and found out the screen backlight would not work. I even thought the monitor was bad, but I was able to shine light at some angle and realized it was the backlight. This is something working perfectly before it went into storage.

Pray tell, it this school of thought so valid?

I fear cos I have spare inverters (12v, 24v, 48v) in storage for use as back-up on days when repairs (God forbid) needs to be done on main units.

I don't know if it's valid for Charge controllers but It's certain for most machines around us. They all need a certain level of periodic servicing not to break down. Even the human muscle atrophies from lack of flow of blood/inactivity.

Nahum777:
Your responses have been helpful. What about custom fees and the like? I heard that's a huge problem. If I send $6k worth of Lithium Batteries, the custom dues would be crazy.

Send me a dm. We will ship it for you in 2 months.

Hello house.

Original Tier 1 panel available.

Jasolar 440w halfcut solar panel - 135k

DM for spec sheet

Call/chat - 08117398294