Belongs to one of my customer..one of the battery terminal was removed... I guess that was what spoilet it.. Don't know for sure sah.. When i opened it, met it like this..

luvlyoracle:



What happened and how did it happen

As for Deye, Yes it would have made it up. Not only that, I would save a lot too from cost of Cables.
But another downside of the HV is that you would need more panels to live up to expectations of the HV PV Inputs. And more panels would need more space.

swagifted:

But for energy loss sake... Would the extra 15kwh make up for the loss you would have had converting 48vdc to 220vac using the LV version as the less loss that would have happened with the HV system, cause this LV system is quite affordable compared to the HV system... And with humongous capacity, the price solarco told me for that HV battery i never recover.

Please post the specs of your Inverter. This might have something to do with MPPT voltage range.
I'm guessing you connected the panels in series right?

HeavenlyBang:


I did, it just draws from battery and panel output doesn't rise.

It's bizzare, since after about an hour everything suddenly went back to normal.

Electrical Engineers will probably be better able to advise on this one. This is a proposed design I have been considering for a while now. I am hoping it can be a way to harness unmatched solar panels using a bus bar. The idea is that multple charge controllers will share the power available, as each of their batteries get full, they will reduce their power demand and the charge controllers that require more power will then be able to get more.

Is there any reason why this cannot work?

Charge Controllers does not share Strings/Arrays. It will not work.

Almost all MPPT controllers do a quick Voc measurement to determine where to start their MPPT search. They start their search 75% to 80% of Voc.
If the two MPPT's aren't in sync with each other, it might not work because they will fight over control of the circuit. PWM controllers should be fine in most circumstances But I wouldn't recommend it in either case. If they are not synced in parallel, they WILL have problems tracking. They will fight each other for control of what voltage and current to run the array. Split the array equally and run separate wires to each charger and combine you battery banks together please.

With two PWM CCs you might get away with it, but the power distribution would not be perfectly equal.
But with two MPPT algorithms independently varying voltage and current and expecting to see only the results of their own changes, this your scenario is not likely to work.

Neither CC would be able to see the Voc end of the panel output curve.
A quick and dirty MPPT that just looks at Voc and sets the operating point at 80% of that would cause a spiral to zero voltage and both CCs would lose.

Never should you have two MPPT controllers connected to same string of panels unless the two MPPT controller functional control can be locked in synchronized unison to act as a single MPPT controller.

Without being synchronized they will just fight each other. At the least, they will just screw up each other's attempt to find MPPT point.

Some MPPT controllers do quick heavy load significantly below Vmp and another a little lower than Voc to measure two power profile slopes and project the two slopes intersection to zero in on Vmp point quickly. It is impossible for this to work if there is another parallel MPPT controller doing its own thing.

Once an MPPT controller zeros in on MPPT point it continues to wobble around a little to detect and track changing MPPT point due to illumination level and temperature. Again, another parallel MPPT controller will interfere with this tracking.

ojesymsym:
Electrical Engineers will probably be better able to advise on this one. This is a proposed design I have been considering for a while now. I am hoping it can be a way to harness unmatched solar panels using a bus bar. The idea is that multple charge controllers will share the power available, as each of their batteries get full, they will reduce their power demand and the charge controllers that require more power will then be able to get more.

Is there any reason why this cannot work?

jonescosmos:
Please post the specs of your Inverter. This might have something to do with MPPT voltage range.
I'm guessing you connected the panels in series right?

Working voltage range is 120v+
Voltage was at 133v, so it's not that, I believe.

It's about the Voltage bros. 133v X 2.2a = 292.6W

Once it tries to draw energy from the PV at the voltage of 133V, there will be a drop of like 5-10% drop in voltage and that will almost drop below the startup voltage 120V.
So the inverter will ignore the PVs and wait for the voltage to rise (what you noticed when it suddenly started working is that the sun intensity increased at a good temperature) so your inverter managed to draw energy without loosing voltage below threshold.

TO RESOLVE THIS: Add 1 or 2 more panels to your string and you should be good to go.

HeavenlyBang:


Working voltage range is 120v+
Voltage was at 133v, so it's not that, I believe.

jonescosmos:
It's about the Voltage bros. 133v X 2.2a = 292.6W

Once it tries to draw energy from the PV at the voltage of 133V, there will be a drop of like 5-10% drop in voltage and that will almost drop below the startup voltage 120V.
So the inverter will ignore the PVs and wait for the voltage to rise (what you noticed when it suddenly started working is that the sun intensity increased at a good temperature) so your inverter managed to draw energy without loosing voltage below threshold.

TO RESOLVE THIS: Add 1 or 2 more panels to your string and you should be good to go.

Or use an external charge controller with a compatible voltage I guess.

Cause that is what I did, if he isn't willing to get more panels at the moment.

Might be cheaper

Intersolar going down in Germany... Seems we are getting a high voltage victron inverter this time around.

HeavenlyBang:


Working voltage range is 120v+
Voltage was at 133v, so it's not that, I believe.

Check your pv and battery terminals for firm contact on cc. It is related.

jonescosmos:
It's about the Voltage bros. 133v X 2.2a = 292.6W

Once it tries to draw energy from the PV at the voltage of 133V, there will be a drop of like 5-10% drop in voltage and that will almost drop below the startup voltage 120V.
So the inverter will ignore the PVs and wait for the voltage to rise (what you noticed when it suddenly started working is that the sun intensity increased at a good temperature) so your inverter managed to draw energy without loosing voltage below threshold.

TO RESOLVE THIS: Add 1 or 2 more panels to your string and you should be good to go.

That sounds very plausible, especially since it seems to have started after we got into the rainy season. Lots of clouds even with the sun out.

I'll watch it more. Thanks a lot for your detailed response.

dollarnaira:


Check your pv and battery terminals for firm contact on cc. It is related.

Will do. Thanks.

jonescosmos:
It's about the Voltage bros. 133v X 2.2a = 292.6W

Once it tries to draw energy from the PV at the voltage of 133V, there will be a drop of like 5-10% drop in voltage and that will almost drop below the startup voltage 120V.
So the inverter will ignore the PVs and wait for the voltage to rise (what you noticed when it suddenly started working is that the sun intensity increased at a good temperature) so your inverter managed to draw energy without loosing voltage below threshold.

TO RESOLVE THIS: Add 1 or 2 more panels to your string and you should be good to go.

Spot on. Seems to be dropping below the working voltage threshold intermittently just like you said.

dollarnaira:


Hope you checked enough positive review?
Plus 4 important protections:
* Lightning
* Short circuit
* Overload
* Temperature

Na the above dey finish inverter patapata

Number is user defined.
My inverter may escape lightning hit due to good earthing and other factors.
Another person with the same inverter may not escape it due to poor earthing and other factors.

Obnoxious2001:
So research has it that MOV can be used to protect lightening strike...

And I have been wondering after I fixed this felicity surge protector device.

How can someone get this MOV

That's it. You caught it in the act. Now you know what to do.

HeavenlyBang:


Spot on. Seems to be dropping below the working voltage threshold intermittently just like you said.

dollarnaira:


Some inverters will act otherwise.

Can you give practical review on this for lesson purpose?
All the inverters I've seen tripped off when they are overloaded them.

emyfine08:


What will I do my inverter spoiled during the rain every time thunder strike my own trip off
And will not come on again

Please contact a competent person to fix a good earthing for you.
Buy a good stabilizer and place it in between the inverter and the main to take of nepa over current madness, if you're running a grid tied system. I guess prag/ servo is expensive depending on the capacity. My cousin's transformer based 48v 3.5kva felicity inverter was damaged by nepa a few days ago. Nothing concern me with nepa..... Na only lightning I know.
In this raining season, I can't just imagine myself putting off my system whenever it rains. The inconveniences alone.....

ti4c:
Hey guys, hope the holiday is going well.

I posted here a few months back for info and advice on budget, I appreciate your replies.

However, I need your advice as I have upgraded my solar battery and panel but it's not doing what I want in terms of power supply.

I upgraded it this Monday to a second hand mercury 220 ah battery(one year used), 400W panel and 30A charge controller(which I find useless cos I don't understand how to really read it).

My major use of the power is for my laptop (90W) cos I work from home and I need to be able to cahrge it at least twice a day. No fridge or TV, just the laptop, DC fan, phone, and bulbs.

During the day it charges laptop fast and carries the fan without issues.

The problem is that the battery doesn't last after sun goes down. Charging phone doesn't seem to do anything to the battery, it's when I plug the fan or laptop after sun down, it will immediately start blinking indicating low battery. I feel like the battery has lost its strength or something else I don't know.

For today, I charged my laptop and phone with it around 12 pm, by past 2pm NEPA brought light, I turned it off, I didn't use it again till 9 pm and once I plugged the fan, it started indicating battery low again, so I removed the fan. But right now my laptop is fully charged but still plugged in but it's not blinking but once I plug the fan it starts indicating battery low... I didn't understand how that is working.

I need your expert advice because I intend to return it on Wednesday and get a 120 ah new gel battery(that's what I initially wanted to buy).

Thank you!

If your inverter charging parameters are compatible with lithium battery, then buy fully coupled 12v 100Ah lithium battery at the range of 230k-250k and have rest of mind.

Please and please:
Avoid solar generators at all cost. I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

Why I’m saying this…

My qasa solar generator just explode on its own. It let off smoke 💨 and then boom 💥
Thank God the incident happened while I was at home, otherwise “Na only God know”

Now I’m looking to purchase an inverter+ controller (1500w -2400) if anyone has these items, used or new please quote me

icjunior:
Please guys,my friend bought 2*220ah tubular batteries from someone but he's complaining that the batteries are weak already.

So will changing the electrolytes of the batteries resuscitate them? Or would it be a fruitless exercise?

And if it's adviceable,can I also get where to do it in Lagos, thanks.

Though the purchase price wasn't mentioned, but buying 24v 220ah used lead acid with usable capacity less than 2.6kwh isn't economical at all.
Getting a fully coupled 24v 50ah with the usable capacity of 1.15kwh at the range of 375k-385k is far better.

isangjohnson:

Please contact a competent person to fix a good earthing for you.
Buy a good stabilizer and place it in between the inverter and the main to take of nepa over current madness, if you're running a grid tied system. I guess prag/ servo is expensive depending on the capacity. My cousin's transformer based 48v 3.5kva felicity inverter was damaged by nepa a few days ago. Nothing concern me with nepa..... Na only lightning I know.
In this raining season, I can't just imagine myself putting off my system whenever it rains. The inconveniences alone.....

For 2years now I don't know what is called NEPA the only problem I have is lightning I have called my engineer he removed the old Surg arrestor and put new one and rechecked the earthing still it happens again I have thunder protector for the main building.I need help seriously my people things are hard this time around.lf na to guide me how to fix some connections I will appreciate

isangjohnson:

Though the purchase price wasn't mentioned, but buying 24v 220ah used lead acid with usable capacity less than 2.6kwh isn't economical at all.
Getting a fully coupled 24v 50ah with the usable capacity of 1.15kwh at the range of 375k-385k is far better.

isangjohnson:

If your inverter charging parameters are compatible with lithium battery, then buy fully coupled 12v 100Ah lithium battery at the range of 230k-250k and have rest of mind.

Something is not adding up.
why is 12V 100ah 250K and 24V 50ah is 385k?

nnadychuks:
Please and please:
Avoid solar generators at all cost. I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

Why I’m saying this…

My qasa solar generator just explode on its own. It let off smoke 💨 and then boom 💥
Thank God the incident happened while I was at home, otherwise “Na only God know”

Now I’m looking to purchase an inverter+ controller (1500w -2400) if anyone has these items, used or new please quote me

Sorry for having such a bad experience. I thank God there was no casualty. Substandard/low quality materials like cables used in coupling the system and lack of ventilation may have contributed to the issue.
When I saw the cheap price range of solar generators online, I asked myself, where are these people buying their materials from?
We all know the price range of Psw and Msw inverters, lithium ions cells, lithium phosphates cells and Cc, irrespective of the capacity and company products
I've been using mine for a long time now and no issue. My neighbor has been using his for a long time too and no issue. If he noticed anything with the battery charging, I checked it for him through the bms screenshot request.

HeavenlyBang:


That sounds very plausible, especially since it seems to have started after we got into the rainy season. Lots of clouds even with the sun out.

I'll watch it more. Thanks a lot for your detailed response.



Will do. Thanks.

what brand of panels are you using and how many Watts in total?

Dam5reey:




Something is not adding up.
why is 12V 100ah 250K and 24V 50ah is 385k?

Thought it was just me

nnadychuks:
I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

This is basically what many solar inverters are.

emyfine08:

How can someone get this MOV

It's something that is sold in the market.

nnadychuks:
Please and please:
Avoid solar generators at all cost. I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

Why I’m saying this…

My qasa solar generator just explode on its own. It let off smoke 💨 and then boom 💥
Thank God the incident happened while I was at home, otherwise “Na only God know”

Now I’m looking to purchase an inverter+ controller (1500w -2400) if anyone has these items, used or new please quote me

If you decide to buy solar generators, buy made in Nigeria e get why

Dam5reey:




Something is not adding up.
why is 12V 100ah 250K and 24V 50ah is 385k?

Cycle life varies and that is what affects the price.
If you go through EVE batched and matched grade A cells list, you will see various cells with different cycle life and charge/discharge rates.
50Ah has 1500 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
Another 50Ah has 7000 cycle life with 1C/1C charge/discharge rate.
101Ah has 2000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
102Ah has 5000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
280Ah has 8000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
304Ah has 4000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
306Ah has 10000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
628Ah has 8000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
When I checked the price a few days ago, 280Ah and 304Ah were sold at the same price because of cycle life.
In secondary market, cell vendors buy the rejected cells at different prices too and cycle life is part of the reason.....

nnadychuks:
Please and please:
Avoid solar generators at all cost. I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

Why I’m saying this…

My qasa solar generator just explode on its own. It let off smoke 💨 and then boom 💥
Thank God the incident happened while I was at home, otherwise “Na only God know”

Now I’m looking to purchase an inverter+ controller (1500w -2400) if anyone has these items, used or new please quote me

There are so many factors that may affect your setup, you may highlight how your own was set up, so others can learn and not make similar mistakes.
Also note that the Solar Generators that work are expensive, Bluetti, Sunking, etc.

isangjohnson:

Cycle life varies and that is what affects the price.
If you go through EVE batched and matched grade A cells list, you will see various cells with different cycle life and charge/discharge rates.
50Ah has 1500 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
Another 50Ah has 7000 cycle life with 1C/1C charge/discharge rate.
101Ah has 2000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
102Ah has 5000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
280Ah has 8000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
304Ah has 4000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
306Ah has 10000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
628Ah has 8000 cycle life with 0.5C/0.5C charge/discharge rate.
When I checked the price a few days ago, 280Ah and 304Ah were sold at the same price because of cycle life.
In secondary market, cell vendors buy the rejected cells at different prices too and cycle life is part of the reason.....

Story, which cell are you packing for 12.8V 100AH that is selling for 250K?
and which one is in the 25.6V 50AH that is selling for 385k?

Dam5reey:


Story, which cell are you packing for 12.8V 100AH that is selling for 250K?
and which one is in the 25.6V 50AH that is selling for 385k?

Quality grade B cells with the advertised capacity Sir.
When you say "story", are you arguing with the cycle life of various cells EVE manufactured or you're arguing with the price range I posted for the 12v 100ah and 24v 50ah cells?
Let me understand you Sir