isangjohnson:

When you say "story", are you arguing with the cycle life of various cells EVE manufactured or you're arguing with the price range I posted for the 12v 100ah and 24v 50ah cells?
Let me understand you Sir

I wrote Story because you typed about cell capacity that is out of context.
I asked a direct question, Just put the answer.

which cell are you packing for 12.8V 100AH that is selling for 250K?
and which one is in the 25.6V 50AH that is selling for 385k?

I was expecting a simple answer which is 50AH cell is sold at a price close to 100AH. and not that it sold at half of the price of 100AH.

Dam5reey:


I wrote Story because you typed about cell capacity that is out of context.
I asked a direct question, Just put the answer.



I was expecting a simple answer which is 50AH cell is sold at a price close to 100AH. and not that it sold at half of the price of 100AH.

Quality grade B cells with the advertised capacity Sir.
If you have any doubt about it, let me know Sir.

Even with the quality grade B cells, sometimes, we built an average HDF plywood box with daly smart bms, normal battery terminals, a small display for people who are struggling to raise cash. We shouldn't be looking for huge profit every time.

Dam5reey:


I wrote Story because you typed about cell capacity that is out of context.
I asked a direct question, Just put the answer.



I was expecting a simple answer which is 50AH cell is sold at a price close to 100AH. and not that it sold at half of the price of 100AH.

I typed this for helping purposes. I felt bad when I read the guys post.

nnadychuks:
Please and please:
Avoid solar generators at all cost. I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

Why I’m saying this…

My qasa solar generator just explode on its own. It let off smoke 💨 and then boom 💥
Thank God the incident happened while I was at home, otherwise “Na only God know”

Now I’m looking to purchase an inverter+ controller (1500w -2400) if anyone has these items, used or new please quote me

I have luminous hybrid inverter 1.5kva with 40a pwm charge controller. Barely used and only 150k. Send me dm or drop your digits.

emyfine08:

For 2years now I don't know what is called NEPA the only problem I have is lightning I have called my engineer he removed the old Surg arrestor and put new one and rechecked the earthing still it happens again I have thunder protector for the main building.I need help seriously my people things are hard this time around.lf na to guide me how to fix some connections I will appreciate

Send DM.

isangjohnson:

Please contact a competent person to fix a good earthing for you.
Buy a good stabilizer and place it in between the inverter and the main to take of nepa over current madness, if you're running a grid tied system. I guess prag/ servo is expensive depending on the capacity. My cousin's transformer based 48v 3.5kva felicity inverter was damaged by nepa a few days ago. Nothing concern me with nepa..... Na only lightning I know.
In this raining season, I can't just imagine myself putting off my system whenever it rains. The inconveniences alone.....

Yeah. I did same just one week after installing my inverter and almost regretted it. Now the nepa is there but I just moved the changeover switch that connects to it to that of Nepa to neutral. I had no need for it in the first place because my 200ah battery, even after 12-16 hours of use through evening and night always remain an average of 120ah.

.

abuzz33:


I have luminous hybrid inverter 1.5kva with 40a pwm charge controller. Barely used and only 150k. Send me dm or drop your digits.

0811667128.4

Dam5reey:


There are so many factors that may affect your setup, you may highlight how your own was set up, so others can learn and not make similar mistakes.
Also note that the Solar Generators that work are expensive, Bluetti, Sunking, etc.

It’s an 800va solar generator, with 30A controller. 2 panels (180W x 2 ), 2 batteries (100ah x 2).
Highest load it carries is a 60W inverter LG fridge. It never overloads. It charges only with panels and doesn’t charge well with Nepa…
I still wonder why it would get spoilt like that for no reason

Response from Felicity
"The only way to monitor the felicity charge controller energy flow is via the screen"

compunigeria:
Morning my ogas(s) at the top. Please i need clarification.
1. Is there any simple way one can read daily energy yield/ generation ( KWH) from Felicity charge controllers ? Either from the device itself or with the use of other affordable and simple to use accessories.
2. Are there other good mppt charge controllers within the price range of felicity that can show the data?

@adrusa, @xtremeidea, @zeestone99,@ jonescosmos @DaniellaDokubo @others please.

jonescosmos:
That's it. You caught it in the act. Now you know what to do.

Yep. Thanks.

12v /24v/48V 1600w, 2000w, 3000w pure sine wave sachet inverter available 65k, 85k, 93k respectively

---

12v 172ah 2.2kw lifepo4 lithium battery available 485k

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12v 280ah 3,584kwh lifepo4 lithium battery available 699k

---

12v/24v 20A dedicated lifepo4 lithium battery charger available 47k/52k
whatsapp 08020574628 or telegram@vvalto

Dam5reey:


It is a free world, I search for the best deals for clients Powmr is the same as Sako,SMS or Welion.
Anyone that is available works.
See attached, an only casing differs

Hi, where did you get the PowMr inverter from?

osayuwamwen:
I think dc breakers are suppose to serve as protection but there are some lightening that doesn't pass through the panel or breakers they go straight into the house and destroy any electrical appliances that is on, I have been using my inverter for the past 1year even during raining days I have never switch off except wen it goes off during low voltage or wen nepa bring light, I have only change the breaker btw the panel and controller once, I am talking from experience I might be wrong though

I see a lot of people discuss their challenges with lightning induced electrical surges. Let me start by saying I am in no way an expert on this subject. You still need to reach out to experts and read on your own so this should not be considered a professional advise more a how "I" did it.

Another thing to get out of the way is. no amount of protection help you in case of a direct lightning attack.. No amount of SPD or surge protectors. A direct lightning takes almost everything. Fortunately direct lightning are very rare events, what we see mostly are caused by indirect lightning or near by lightning which is what and SPD and lightning protection system can help with.

What are surges. Surges in a system can occur from the grid (NEPA) and most electrical surges comes from the grid.. usually caused by heavy machinery used in a near by house or factory or heavy equipment like fridge and freezers. They introduce spike into your circuit.

Surges can also be caused by induced or sudden increase or spike in voltage / current caused by a near by lightning stike. Such a spike which is called a surge can be very high.. as high as 50kvA to 80kvA. This sudden spike occurs very quickly.. sometimes less than a second.. hence they are usually caused transient electrical surges.. they happen within seconds and dissipate. But they can do damages to electrical equipment within the time they occur.

Like all electricity, Surges are looking for ground and the best way to protect your equipment is to provide a pathway to ground. Ground here means your mean house earthing. This is why earthing is very very important and it is the bedrock which lightning protection should be based.

Check my last couple of posts on earthing and best practice I followed and how you can check your earth resistance to confirm that it is within spec

How can indirect lightning ingress into your house.

Mainly through external fixtures which are linked to your electrical circuit. It could be a satellite dish, or a solar panel, or a cable from the grid. (Nepa connection) all of the listed are can pick up surges induced by near by lightning and bring them into your home.

Protection in layers

There is no one red button that will protect your house from lightning. the best approach to guaranty you survive a lightning surge is to take protection in layers.

SPD or surge protection device helps to protection against all electrical surge by drawing the surge to itself and sending it to ground (your earth rod) and away from your sensitive equipment.

SPD are rated in Type. Type 1,2 and 3

Type 1 SPD Type 1 are usually installed at the entry point to your house. like by the NEPA connection ingress to your house. or by your PV combiner box before it goes into your inverter / charge controller. They are the most powerful and are designed with withstand very large surges.. between 50kVA to 100kVA. The take this large surge and clamp it down to a lower surge like 2.5kva, sending the rest to ground.

of cause 2.5kva is still too much for most of your equipment.. this is where a Type 2 comes in.

Type 2 surge protector are not as powerful as a type 1 and they can handle surges between 40k to 10kva and clamp it down to like 1.1 to 800va .. much safer.. ideally in a well coordinated setup. Type 2 pick up from type 1 or type 1 hands over to type 1 to further clamp down the surge to a safer level. Type 2 are usually installed in your main house distribution box often time paired with the main house breaker.

It should be known that a surge protector should always be paired with an appropriately sized circuit breaker. The surge circuit breaker and earthing work hand in hand. When there is a powerful surge, the SPD trips the breaker and sends the surge to ground.


Type 3 are like your normal APC surge protector power outlets you see in electrical shops and super markets. They handle smaller surges and break it down further for your device.

Things to watch out for when getting a surge protector

- (Ue)The rated voltage. This is the amount of voltage that is allowed to pass through the surge protector. Anything high than that will be shunted down to earth. You want to appropriately size your surge protector so that the rated voltage is just above the rated voltage of the protected circuit. e.g for AC circuit, a 350v or 300v surge protector is ideal if you get an 800v surge protector.. you are letting in way too much surge into your equipment. Remember spd acts like a capacitor, they help protect your equipment from voltage spikes.

This spikes happen all the time and often time equipment are designed to handle them but each spike as stress you want to protect your equipment from.

( Imax)Maximum discharge current. This is the maximum amount of current an SPD can protect it can be 40kA or high or lesser depending on the class / type

Max protection level (Up) This is the voltage surge protector would clamp down the surge to. It can be 1.4kV or 1.5kv

All the above specs are important in setting up your surge protection device.

There is so much to say and write about surge protection. Again not a professional and not qualified to give advise on this. But hope this guide people on how to think around surge protection.

cheers

I got 3000w Satchet inverter from AliExpress sometimes ago but now the cooling fan comes up immediately I power it on and it makes too much irritating noise and gets hot quickly, pls what's the solution for this?

cluewebhost:


If you're using chrome on desktop in my sig I made an extension to block posts like this so you can browse in peace

Technology is sweet sha... 😂

Just to add to my post above. The SPD I use for my setup are

300v DC Midnite SPD for my 2 PV array. They are connected in series with my PV combiner box. The PV as a VOC of about 150v hence the closest rated Midnite SPD was their 300v series. I got it from amazon US

For the AC I use Schneider Type 2 SPD sold from the official schneider shop herehttps:///product/iprd40r-modular-surge-arrester-1p-n-350v-with-remote-transfert-a9l40501-5935598

They also have a type 1 spd https:///product/schneider-electric-iprd65r-modular-surge-arrester-1p-n-350v-with-remote-transfert-a9l65501-5935603

Just note that you are as good as your weakest point. There is a lot to know and understand about SPD how they are installed and such. You can reach out to people who have good understanding of them to ensure your setup is apt otherwise you will just be wasting money.

osayuwamwen:
The repairer later told me they are go to change the board he said the board is 90k while he's own service fee is 40k, I just vex go oreder a new inverter from AliExpress for abt 109k or so picture below is the new inverter I ordered 3600wat but it actual power is 1600watt

Hope you read user reviews about the unit o. BTW, some NL here sell similar units, make we de encourage our guys here too.

The inverter display looks nice sha. 😊

Share the product link if you don't mind

osayuwamwen:
Yes the reviews are good, it has all the 7 to 8 basic protection but na to they off am and off all my breakers once weather change sure pass, I don learn lesson in hard way

This looks like an off-grid unit. I run an off-grid unit as well ( about 2 yrs and running) and I haven't had any thunderstorm issues. Someone earlier stated that if your system is purely off-grid, you MAY have some immunity from lightening strikes.

My rig is not earthed, and my house earthing seems compromised, but so far so good.

I have a knife switch that I physically use to change to grid if I need to.

icjunior:



Yes,second hand...he bought like a month ago.
Thanks,so anybody that charges batteries can change electrolytes too?

When tubular batteries go bad, usually the irreversible chemical in on the plates not the electrolyte. It is not advisable to change electrolyte of a used battery, you rather top up with distilled water as the case may be.

Did your friend observe the 50% DoD rule? Where the batteries charging well while in use? How far gone where they before he purchased them.

My advise is to sell them off as scrap, add money and get lithium batteries.

ti4c:
Hey guys, hope the holiday is going well.

I posted here a few months back for info and advice on budget, I appreciate your replies.

However, I need your advice as I have upgraded my solar battery and panel but it's not doing what I want in terms of power supply.

I upgraded it this Monday to a second hand mercury 220 ah battery(one year used), 400W panel and 30A charge controller(which I find useless cos I don't understand how to really read it).

My major use of the power is for my laptop (90W) cos I work from home and I need to be able to cahrge it at least twice a day. No fridge or TV, just the laptop, DC fan, phone, and bulbs.

During the day it charges laptop fast and carries the fan without issues.

The problem is that the battery doesn't last after sun goes down. Charging phone doesn't seem to do anything to the battery, it's when I plug the fan or laptop after sun down, it will immediately start blinking indicating low battery. I feel like the battery has lost its strength or something else I don't know.

For today, I charged my laptop and phone with it around 12 pm, by past 2pm NEPA brought light, I turned it off, I didn't use it again till 9 pm and once I plugged the fan, it started indicating battery low again, so I removed the fan. But right now my laptop is fully charged but still plugged in but it's not blinking but once I plug the fan it starts indicating battery low... I didn't understand how that is working.

I need your expert advice because I intend to return it on Wednesday and get a 120 ah new gel battery(that's what I initially wanted to buy).

Thank you!

You are wasting scarce funds.

For your needs, I'll suggest you get a power bank. DC power is more efficient and lithium batteries do the job better for this use case.

All your loads are DC powered, so why waste power with an inverter in the mix?

Trippledots:


Hi, where did you get the PowMr inverter from?

Jumia.

EduTechTainMent:


What's the best LFP setting for powmr 60A cc? Or default would do just fine.

Secondly, you recommended use of Qasa AC/DC ceiling fans which works absolutely great. However I noticed it "back charges" the LFP batteries. I mean it also contributes to charging current of the LFP battery. Have you noticed this? Pls note that I am not the only one who observed this. Infact my attention was called to this by some of those I recommended the qasa ceiling fan to. I initially doubted it but I can now confirm this is true.

Is there anyone else who is experiencing this on here?

Eh! 😳...I know they have a DC cable meant for connecting a battery and it can charge the battery when there is normal power supply.

How was your fan connected?

osayuwamwen:
I think dc breakers are suppose to serve as protection but there are some lightening that doesn't pass through the panel or breakers they go straight into the house and destroy any electrical appliances that is on, I have been using my inverter for the past 1year even during raining days I have never switch off except wen it goes off during low voltage or wen nepa bring light, I have only change the breaker btw the panel and controller once, I am talking from experience I might be wrong though

Breakers monitor current. Lightening strikes usually have astronomically high voltages and current. But I think it's the high voltage that does the damage.

HeavenlyBang:


I did, it just draws from battery and panel output doesn't rise.

It's bizzare, since after about an hour everything suddenly went back to normal.

Slow MPPT tracking can do that.

jonescosmos:
Charge Controllers does not share Strings/Arrays. It will not work.

Almost all MPPT controllers do a quick Voc measurement to determine where to start their MPPT search. They start their search 75% to 80% of Voc.
If the two MPPT's aren't in sync with each other, it might not work because they will fight over control of the circuit. PWM controllers should be fine in most circumstances But I wouldn't recommend it in either case. If they are not synced in parallel, they WILL have problems tracking. They will fight each other for control of what voltage and current to run the array. Split the array equally and run separate wires to each charger and combine you battery banks together please.

With two PWM CCs you might get away with it, but the power distribution would not be perfectly equal.
But with two MPPT algorithms independently varying voltage and current and expecting to see only the results of their own changes, this your scenario is not likely to work.

Neither CC would be able to see the Voc end of the panel output curve.
A quick and dirty MPPT that just looks at Voc and sets the operating point at 80% of that would cause a spiral to zero voltage and both CCs would lose.

Never should you have two MPPT controllers connected to same string of panels unless the two MPPT controller functional control can be locked in synchronized unison to act as a single MPPT controller.

Without being synchronized they will just fight each other. At the least, they will just screw up each other's attempt to find MPPT point.

Some MPPT controllers do quick heavy load significantly below Vmp and another a little lower than Voc to measure two power profile slopes and project the two slopes intersection to zero in on Vmp point quickly. It is impossible for this to work if there is another parallel MPPT controller doing its own thing.

Once an MPPT controller zeros in on MPPT point it continues to wobble around a little to detect and track changing MPPT point due to illumination level and temperature. Again, another parallel MPPT controller will interfere with this tracking.

I agree. Charge controllers aren't just passive electrical equipments, but are very active and dynamic. Almost alive even. Lol

No need to stress myself
It was even this thread that caused it, now I even forget some usernames exist

If you use it and find anything wrong with it please let me know!

Trippledots:


Technology is sweet sha... 😂

nnadychuks:
Please and please:
Avoid solar generators at all cost. I mean a solar component that has both inverter and controller affixed in one board is total rubbish.

Why I’m saying this…

My qasa solar generator just explode on its own. It let off smoke 💨 and then boom 💥
Thank God the incident happened while I was at home, otherwise “Na only God know”

Now I’m looking to purchase an inverter+ controller (1500w -2400) if anyone has these items, used or new please quote me

I have some units. Please reach out.

Una weldon for this dept.. Anyone with 1st hand info abt this battery.. Anyone done use am before. How good is it..? And hope no be fake (upgraded tubular battery)..? Thanks.. Will be in da comment section reading..

I have a Genus Booster 3200 for Sale (1.9KVA). Used for less than 8 weeks. (I decided to buy a larger capacity inverter). Price 250K. If you're interested pls call 08088799945