I will run my AC at night for some hours with your battery size.

I run my ACs from 9am when my battery charges to 75% to 5pm (on a good sunny day) as my battery is for light night usage and early morning boiling of water.

ask4bk:


If I run AC, that thing that consumes 1kwh, by morning won't it finish my 14kwh battery? Except i run it for like 6 hours at night only.

But truth be said, during the day the panels are wasting coz after charging at 4kwh from solar, once its filled up at 10am, it reduces to 400w which is all I use during the day. Over 3kwh from solar that could handle AC is just wasting.

To consider again is, do you think it'll stress the 5kva felicity inverter?

Dam5reey1:


You point are off Topic, Can I use 14.6V on a well Built pack is well balanced at the top with low Deviation?

Stop adding errors from inverter and all.

The battery i tested all have 3.65V and BMS is active and there is no issue so far because I am using it.

Wether there is 0 gain or thats another topic.

You either have poor English comprehension or you are fundamentally not very intelligent and unable to grasp and compartmentalise issues.

ask4bk:


I follow lifepo4 contents a lot. I'm member to some lifepo4 online communities in the USA. The general consensus for top users and engineers in this area is that lifepo4 be changed at max 13.9-14.0v. Some even go lower. Some go higher. But I only shared the consensus.

I asked Chatgpt now, and here's the answer they gave.

Charging a LiFePO4 battery to 14.6V can be problematic because it places the battery near its maximum safe voltage, which can stress the cells and shorten the battery's lifespan. Here are some reasons for avoiding 14.6V as a charging limit:

1. Increased Stress on Cells: Charging to the upper voltage limit can push the cells close to overcharge, increasing stress and leading to premature aging.


2. Reduced Cycle Life: LiFePO4 batteries have a longer lifespan when not charged to the maximum voltage. Lowering the float charge (e.g., to 14.0V as you've set) can help maintain the battery's cycle life, potentially reaching or exceeding the 4000 cycles.


3. Minimal Capacity Gain: Charging from 14.0V to 14.6V typically only adds a few percent to the overall capacity. The slight gain in capacity does not compensate for the loss in lifespan caused by regular charging to the higher voltage.


4. Heat Generation: Charging at higher voltages can cause the battery to heat up slightly, which also contributes to wear and tear over time.


Keeping the voltage lower (like 14.0V) balances capacity with longevity, making it a good choice for extending your battery's useful life

Abeg leave the guy and let him continue arguing with himself. Nothing worse than the man with half knowledge who thinks he knows it all and refuses to be corrected.

Nobody starts with expert knowledge it is in admitting errors and past bad practices that we improve but a man who continues to defend his old and flawed ways never improves.

casualobserver:


You either have poor English comprehension or you are fundamentally not very intelligent and unable to grasp and compartmentalise issues.

Exactly... English teacher..

Me dont know anything.

Here is a Manufacturer charging Voltage 58.4V explain why they printed this on their battery.

Dam5reey1:


Exactly... English teacher..

Me dont know anything.

Here is a Manufacturer charging Voltage 58.4V explain why they printed this on their battery.

Like I said you are either daft or lack proper English comprehension. Perhaps you should read the thread again. Maybe if you read slowly you will understand what is being said.

Either way I hope you are not a professional installer.

I wish Nigerians can actually differ without insults. Oh well, if wishes were horses beggars will surely ride.

mctfopt:
I wish Nigerians can actually differ without insults. Oh well, if wishes were horses beggars will surely ride.

I find it very annoying when someone continuously quotes me with unintelligent comments that add no value to myself or the forum. Nobody has said he can’t charge to 3.65v. That’s not the issue and never has been. The issue from the get go is whether it is prudent to. But he goes on and on and on. This is the same guy who claimed weak cells or mismatched cells are charged or balanced at a lower voltage. Clearly his understanding is defective. But he won’t let go!

Whatever charging profile works for you, use it. None of us has used cells to end of life to draw any meaningful conclusion as per effect of charging voltage.

Manufacturers test result are in controlled environment and are extrapolations.

Effect of temperature should be of more concern.

mank1234:
Whatever charging profile works for you, use it. None of us has used cells to end of life to draw any meaningful conclusion as per effect of charging voltage.

Manufacturers test result are in controlled environment and are extrapolations.

Effect of temperature should be of more concern.

would pretend I didn't read the above

casualobserver:


Like I said you are either daft or lack proper English comprehension. Perhaps you should read the thread again. Maybe if you read slowly you will understand what is being said.

Either way I hope you are not a professional installer.

Oga, have some Manners na..

Dam5reey1:


Exactly... English teacher..

Me dont know anything.

Here is a Manufacturer charging Voltage 58.4V explain why they printed this on their battery.

Example 1:

Many LiFePO4 battery manufacturers recommend 14.6 volt absorption. But, that singular recommendation doesn’t account for numerous factors like managing a larger system, battery longevity, and more. Increasingly, we are seeing good reasons to lower charge voltages to 14 volts or below.

https://panbo.com/charging-lifepo4-whats-the-impact-of-lower-voltages

Example 2:

Researchers found that keeping LFP batteries fully charged creates harmful compounds in the pack from high voltage and heat. As you cycle the pack frequently—meaning discharging and charging fully—these harmful compounds deposit onto the negative electrode, consuming lithium, causing degradation.


https://batteriesnews.com/lfp-battery-health-degrades-at-full-charge-study-finds/#google_vignette

bassdow:
Seems you don't reside in Lagos

Na Lag I dey baba.

Dam5reey1:
Seplos Charging Voltage...

Interprete 58.4V...

Make una learn una dey argue.. and using some info wey no get fact to support it except for marketing gimmick and Covering of Battery Flaws!

Dey play...
Same seplos that says voltage from 42v to 58.4v, says you'll get to their listed cycles only if you use their battery at 90% DOD, then plus 70% standard capacity. They don't advice you to to 2.6v to 3.65V. You respect their specification by charging to lower voltage 3.45v-3.55v and putting undervoltage cutoff at 3.0v

One of their conditions too is 25ºc temperature which you know it's hard to attain in Nigeria constantly.
The odds are against us everywhere to keep our battery long lasting, yet you want to add to the stress by charging to 3.65V coz you saw it written that it can go to that.

While don't you run your car engine to 6000rpm always coz your car wrote that it can do it, and see if you won't change engine after 3 years.

12v 20A (14v) dedicated lifepo4 lithium battery charger available 48k

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24v 20A (28v) dedicated lifepo4 lithium battery charger available 57k

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lights turns red when charging, turns green when battery is full!

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12v/24v 1600w, 2000w, 3000w, 4000w pure sine wave sachet inverter also available

mctfopt:
I wish Nigerians can actually differ without insults. Oh well, if wishes were horses beggars will surely ride.

I'm telling you. It's just sad and unfortunate that people can't do almost anything nowadays without being insulting. No matter what the other person does, one should always maintain a standard of being nice and accommodating, there is never a reason for insulting the other party in exchanging views. Most especially on this honorable platform. Please let us be understanding and accommodating, it pays in the end.

@ask4bk, and @casualobserver, the lithium profile on most charge controllers on hybrid inverters use 28.8V (24V system) which translates to 3.6V, so if you set the BMS to 3.55V, will the BMS be able to take care of it from there or one has to find a way to also edit the inverter settings?

Brand new 25.6v 280a lithium battery available...

Flash sales: 1.6m 1.450m


O8135O31951

ojesymsym:
@ask4bk, and @casualobserver, the lithium profile on most charge controllers on hybrid inverters use 28.8V (24V system) which translates to 3.6V, so if you set the BMS to 3.55V, will the BMS be able to take care of it from there or one has to find a way to also edit the inverter settings?

Charge voltage and battery voltage are different. The charge voltage needs to be higher than the battery voltage or else there is no potential difference and hence no charging will take place or charging will stop.


If both are properly configured and their is communication between BMS and inverter, the BMS will request the charge voltage and send a signal to the charge controller or inverter to stop charging when it reaches the voltage cutoff set in the BMS.

If there is no comms the BMS should cutoff once it’s reaches its cut off voltage. Actually you should be able to set the charge voltage on the inverter if there is no comms between BMS and Inverter and you are using a “user defined” charge setting.

Please who has this type of battery monitor for sale

ojesymsym:
@ask4bk, and @casualobserver, the lithium profile on most charge controllers on hybrid inverters use 28.8V (24V system) which translates to 3.6V, so if you set the BMS to 3.55V, will the BMS be able to take care of it from there or one has to find a way to also edit the inverter settings?

BMS is a dump device that must work based on your expertise.

Best practice is to charge lower than BMS cut off. This is to ensure you dont over work the Mosfet in the BMS, and some inverters may not handle the situation well whereby the Charge suddenly cut off due to BMS protection.

If you BMS uses OVP of 3.6V then you must charge to 3.55V or lower.

And if you set BMS OVP to 3.55V you must charge at 3.5V or lower.


For me I charge only to 3.5V on my pack at 0.2C on Grid.. and up to 0.4C on Solar.
This work because I use CSO which allows Grid charge only when there is NO Solar.

Gshems:
Please who has this type of battery monitor for sale

This device is a one way direction counter.


I would recommend you get a Bi direction Coulumb Counter BT version, especially to monitor battery usage. though they are not cheap.

I am testing the WiFi version with Screen.

Dam5reey1:


This device is a one way direction counter.


I would recommend you get a Bi direction Coulumb Counter BT version, especially to monitor battery usage. though they are not cheap.

I am testing the WiFi version with Screen.

Did you source the WiFi version locally? If yes, how much? I've seen it on AE.

mctfopt:


Did you source the WiFi version locally? If yes, how much? I've seen it on AE.

Yes, it's on Aliexpress. You can buy it and get it within 2 weeks or so.

It's expensive, as most don't need it. I have one extra for sale at Ali Express price anyway. It's 100A sha.
I just got delivery of the 100BalanceBMS which also has a Wi-Fi function and screen.

Nobody is paying anyone here. Do what works for you so far you have power in your House. If 4ah battery can run your Ac and microwave with your trick pls enjoy it oo. Certain information will die in some ppu's mind than sharing.

In this journey of solar energy, satisfaction is the key.

Me na wetin battery maker tell me to charge at nai I dey charge at, I no get power for wahala.

Is is locally available or online? Price?

Modified
What is the price of the extra one you want to dispose?

Dam5reey1:


This device is a one way direction counter.


I would recommend you get a Bi direction Coulumb Counter BT version, especially to monitor battery usage. though they are not cheap.

I am testing the WiFi version with Screen.

casualobserver:


Charge voltage and battery voltage are different. The charge voltage needs to be higher than the battery voltage or else there is no potential difference and hence no charging will take place or charging will stop.


If both are properly configured and their is communication between BMS and inverter, the BMS will request the charge voltage and send a signal to the charge controller or inverter to stop charging when it reaches the voltage cutoff set in the BMS.

If there is no comms the BMS should cutoff once it’s reaches its cut off voltage. Actually you should be able to set the charge voltage on the inverter if there is no comms between BMS and Inverter and you are using a “user defined” charge setting.

if their are no comms between battery bms and inverter, does the bms still do its job of overtemperature, overcharge, overdischarge protection, cell balancing, Or it just stays idle?

kristien4:
if their are no comms between battery bms and inverter, does the bms still do its job of overtemperature, overcharge, overdischarge protection, cell balancing, Or it just stays idle?

The BMS is the gatekeeper and protector of the battery. The difference between one that is communicating with the charge controller/inverter and one that isn’t is that a communicating BMS sends its charge parameters to the CC/inverter and says this is how I want you to charge me and the CC/inverter responds. When there is no communication the BMS becomes a standalone gatekeeper, if the charge parameters you configure on the CC/inverter and the incoming charge are within its parameters it allows charging. Once the limits of the parameters in the BMS are violated it shuts down charging or the whole battery altogether.

Your BMS is never idle. Idle means it’s not doing its job in which case you are in trouble if that were allowed to happen. A BMS should shut down and give a fault error if for any reason it cannot perform its functions.


It’s like going to a party, the bouncer at the hall has a list of invited guests and their seating arrangements. If your name is on the list you are allowed in and ushered to your seat. If the uninvited whose names are not on the list attempt to enter, the hall bouncer shuts down the entrance to the hall until the uninvited are evicted. Comms between inverter/CC and BMS is like the bouncer at the hall (BMS) sending a list of updated invited guests to another bouncer at the gate of the compound (inverter or CC) in real time. such that everyone entering the compound has been screened before they even get to the hall and as soon as a guest is added to the list in the hall it is reflected in the list at the gate instantly without having to walk over to the gate to amend the list.. But if for any reason comms or no comms an uninvited guest gets to the hall, the hall bouncer (BMS) closes the door to anyone uninvited and can shut down the hall until order is restored.

durodee:
Is is locally available or online? Price?

Modified
What is the price of the extra one you want to dispose?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwO5mzb
You may check out from there

45 usd is the average price
75,000Naira if interested.
Unopened

ask4bk:


Yes, 48v 280ah.

I bought 10 with the intention of using 9 of the 555w jinko. Wanted to connect them in sets of 3s in series and sets in parallel. But 2 panels broke while transporting to the forest where I live.
So I had to do 4 sets of 2 panels. A set contains 2 panels in series and all connected in parallel. So I get like 100v of pv.

Thank God I bought 16mm pv cable coz that's what will carry such high amp that will be produced very comfortably. That big cable ensures you get close full capacity of your panels, coz if it's smaller cable I will lose a lot due to heat. With the 16mm, even at 10am I get 4.1kw

I'm using 100ahm felicity charge controller. I don't use hybrid cos at times I leave the forest for 2 months and I need to put off inverter and just let the charge controller keep charging the battery. I did so coz I was using gel batteries before and you know how they lose volts without floating it. But now I have lithium I think I can put off the battery and after 2 months it will have little change to the volts I left it with.

@bolded....if it didn't break completely, you could have tested them before discarding. Cracked glass panels can still do their job most times.

casualobserver:


My opening post asked do you want to learn or not? The. I continued for the sake of others. If you wanted to learn and had done the research like you claim you did or at least quality research I wouldn’t have to post what I posted.


I am not here on an ego trip. You are wrong but do not want to admit you are wrong. I hope you aren’t an installer.

Nobody is arguing with you that you can charge to 3.65v, it just not advisable especially with the kind of quackery in Nigeria. You never did answer what happens if you are charging to 3.65v every day but your inverter or charge controller is actually seeing a lower voltage at the battery? You have not left any margin for error because according to you you have read the manufacturers report? For the sake of an extra 0.5%?

The way you write, be like say I go know you for real life oh....where do you work currently?

casualobserver:


The BMS is the gatekeeper and protector of the battery. The difference between one that is communicating with the charge controller/inverter and one that isn’t is that a communicating BMS sends its charge parameters to the CC/inverter and says this is how I want you to charge me and the CC/inverter responds. When there is no communication the BMS becomes a standalone gatekeeper, if the charge parameters you configure on the CC/inverter and the incoming charge are within its parameters it allows charging. Once the limits of the parameters in the BMS are violated it shuts down charging or the whole battery altogether.

Your BMS is never idle. Idle means it’s not doing its job in which case you are in trouble if that were allowed to happen. A BMS should shut down and give a fault error if for any reason it cannot perform its functions.


It’s like going to a party, the bouncer at the hall has a list of invited guests and their seating arrangements. If your name is on the list you are allowed in and ushered to your seat. If the uninvited whose names are not on the list attempt to enter, the hall bouncer shuts down the entrance to the hall until the uninvited are evicted. Comms between inverter/CC and BMS is like the bouncer at the hall (BMS) sending a list of updated invited guests to another bouncer at the gate of the compound (inverter or CC) in real time. such that everyone entering the compound has been screened before they even get to the hall and as soon as a guest is added to the list in the hall it is reflected in the list at the gate instantly without having to walk over to the gate to amend the list.. But if for any reason comms or no comms an uninvited guest gets to the hall, the hall bouncer (BMS) closes the door to anyone uninvited and can shut down the hall until order is restored.

Thanks for the clarity.