geesampower:
thanks. His mission is visible to the blind. Those who how what we are talking about will find his comments amusing anyway. Such people are inevitable. They will even call you pretending to be clients just to test you and see how you do your business. I will be expecting his call or mail next pretending to be a client. I have met many like him.

geesampower:

Without mixing words, this is a big demand.
18KW inverter system hooked up to an array of at least 15KW, with a back up battery of about 192,000WH. Cost about N15.2M. If all won't be on at once for a reasonable part of the day, the cost could be much cheaper.

onelife97:

Thank you @geesampower.

onelife97:
@geesampower,thanks a lot.I appreciate ur skill in this field.
Do u have any company of ur own or working for one?
ll like to install a solar power in my house when I ll back in the country comes next year.
Of course,my daily usage ll not be up to that I stipulated in my earlier post but just like to have the maximum just in case as there r still some family members around in the house.

spinola:
Installing a good quality 2 KVA Solar System in one’s home in this day and age should not cost more than N300, 000, in fact it can be done for much less depending on configuration and intended usage, for example one can use Rechargeable fans like the Lontor 16 Inches Rechargeable Standing Fan with Remote – (Maximum 16 Hours running time) to reduce the load on the system.

konga.com/mercury-2-4kva-inverter-1695372
konga.com/16-inches-rechargeable-standing-fan-with-remote-maximum-16-hours-running-time-1691969

jpphilips:



A man goes to an appliance shop to buy a generator, he asks the generator seller to calculate his load for him, the seller asks, what do you have? ignorant client would answer;
1 mid size fridge, 1 deep freezer, 2 nos 42" flat screen TV,
the seller goes thus;
1 fridge is 1000w, 1 deep freezer is 1,200w then 2nos 42" flat screen TV are 200w each.
your total load is 2,600w therefore you need a 3kva generator. price 175k(Japan ).

In reality;

A modern mid size fridge is rated 1A, A modern deep freezer is rated 2.5A, 2 nos 40" flat screen are rated 0.9A each so total load is 5.2A.

The appropriate Generator for this victim is a 2.2kva generator of 8A. price 110k (Japan), because of his ignorance, he will have to pay 175k plus the extra fuel consumption throughout the life of a generator he doesn't need. Who profits? the same seller who mis calculated his load.

The same old trick you guys want to use here, I dey laugh!!

power = current × voltage.

DC voltage is 12/24v
Ac voltage is 110/220/240.

Voltage is treated as a constant so the only variable is the current measured in Amps.
Power can not be the load but current who is the only variable in the equation.

Using power to calculate load is wrong use current. Except there is an ulterior motive, for the records, I can not be your client because I am not a mugu!!

chris81964:


Your calculation for the generator is wrong. I don't know why you choose to ignore the surge. Your 1A refrigerator can surge up to to 5A. I have seen it happen. You can imagine what can happen with your 2.5A freezer. It will surge to more than your generators capacity. Your 2 kw inverter will power the loads you mention. A 2.2 kva generator will not work. I know from experience.
I am not sure why you find it necessary to go the route you have elected to prove that you are more knowledgeable than anyone else. We all are students and we are all learning.
We can disagree without being disagreeable.

jpphilips:


Not to worry a lot of people with 1kva stabilizer have used it with their mid size fridge of 1A, surge or not it works perfect.

Please can you show us a pictorial evidence where a 1A fridge surge to 5Amps, guy, you are not talking to a m0r0n, look at the handle once again and I hope you will choose your evidence carefully.

1hp AC starts with 5.2A (starting current) runs on 4.6A (running current ), then you say an ordinary fridge of 1A will surge to 5A at start ? bros is the fridge made in Aba?


Bros you are a technician who knows the truth if you have no ulterior motive, you would have agreed a long time ago.
Don't hide behind learning to cheat people we expect that before you come to this platform, you would have done your home work properly.


How do you expect people to entrust you with a solar project when you can hardly calculate their actual load, does it make any sense to you?
After spending good money and it fails, you will say it is the work of the devil or we are all learning. crap!!

chris81964:


Jpphilips

Nobody called you a "m0r0n". You said you were not. I have no clue what the devil has to do with this conversation. You are not as informed as you claim.

"Inrush current, input surge current or switch-on surge is the maximum, instantaneous input current drawn by an electrical device when first turned on. Alternating current electric motors and transformers may draw several times their normal full-load current when first energized, for a few cycles of the input waveform" Wikipedia This information is a mouse click away. Your AC and your fridge and freezer have motors in them. People withe generators notice the change in engine sound when these devices kick in. That is the surge. Ignore it at your peril.

Your quip about Aba made is rather unfortunate considering that you have not manufactured anything. You might be good at book knowledge, but that is no substitute for real life experience. The picture is of a 1.5 kw system that would shut down (overload) when a fridge was turned on. If the fridge was on when it came on it carried it. It had no surge ability. And it was a mid sized fridge. The fridge consumes about 220 / 230 watts. We installed them and quickly replaced them with units that could surge. Hence a 2 kw low frequency inverter can surge up to 6 kw.
Leave the practical knowledge to people who actually do this for a living. My company has installed 23 clients in Ghana and Nigeria, since June of last year. How many have you installed?

chris81964:


Jpphilips

Nobody called you a "m0r0n". You said you were not. I have no clue what the devil has to do with this conversation. You are not as informed as you claim.

"Inrush current, input surge current or switch-on surge is the maximum, instantaneous input current drawn by an electrical device when first turned on. Alternating current electric motors and transformers may draw several times their normal full-load current when first energized, for a few cycles of the input waveform" Wikipedia This information is a mouse click away. Your AC and your fridge and freezer have motors in them. People withe generators notice the change in engine sound when these devices kick in. That is the surge. Ignore it at your peril.

Your quip about Aba made is rather unfortunate considering that you have not manufactured anything. You might be good at book knowledge, but that is no substitute for real life experience. The picture is of a 1.5 kw system that would shut down (overload) when a fridge was turned on. If the fridge was on when it came on it carried it. It had no surge ability. And it was a mid sized fridge. The fridge consumes about 220 / 230 watts. We installed them and quickly replaced them with units that could surge. Hence a 2 kw low frequency inverter can surge up to 6 kw.
Leave the practical knowledge to people who actually do this for a living. My company has installed 23 clients in Ghana and Nigeria, since June of last year. How many have you installed?

jpphilips:


I hate long irrelevant stories designed to obfuscate people show me a circuit diagram or spec plate/tag behind a refridgerator with the specification you claimed, in case you have forgotten, you said you have seen a 1A rated fridge with starting current of 5A. I want to see it, is it too much to ask?

You claimed to have practical knowledge, I hope my demand is practical enough.

chris81964:


We can lead a horse to water but we can't make it drink. You know what you know and I am happy for you. I don't have to go beyond what I have shown you. The burden is on you to prove me wrong. At least I quoted Wikepedia. What are you quoting to back up yours?
I have field experience. What do you have?
Here is a link for people who are open minded enough. It is 110 V, I live in the US but the concept is the same for 220/230.
http://www.nooutage.com/start.htm

110v/230v same same?
secondly, after doing a thorough research where you were required to prove that a 1A rated refrigerator can start with as much as 5Amps current.
You decided to show me a claptrap that the initial current rating was not specified.
You lifted from a charge and bail web site of a fridge manufactured in 1986 and mid 70's respectively. I think it is time to knock you closer to reality.
Gentlemen, If you need a solar system of the 70's technology, feel free to contact this Man who refused to grow with time.
I am done with you, I thought there was something new, little did i know that my curiosity will land me in the stone age.
RIP to your victims in advance. I am done with you.

jpphilips:



110v/230v same same?
secondly, after doing a thorough research where you were required to prove that a 1A rated refrigerator can start with as much as 5Amps current.
You decided to show me a claptrap that the initial current rating was not specified.
You lifted from a charge and bail web site of a fridge manufactured in 1986 and mid 70's respectively. I think it is time to knock you closer to reality.
Gentlemen, If you need a solar system of the 70's technology, feel free to contact this Man who refused to grow with time.
I am done with you, I thought there was something new, little did i know that my curiosity will land me in the stone age.
RIP to your victims in advance. I am done with you.

chris81964:


There is an old saying that I am sorry I ignored. It says "Do not argue with f00ls, for they will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience". I apologize for following you down that path. You won. I admit defeat.

amnps:



So, what kind of controllers do yours come with? PWM or MPPT?

Sunymoore:
Hi geesampower or anybody. Please how much will it cost to get a solar system that can power 5 fans, one flat screen TV and decoder.. And fifteen energy saving bulbs and some small appliance like charger?

geesampower:

For how many hours a day and what type of fan, is it the common 65watt standing fans or ceiling fans. Tv size may and may not matter so far you it is not beyond 42inches won't consume more than 130watts most likely, so just shed more light on the type of fans and duration you intend to use it everyday

Sunymoore:

Thanks..
The fans are normal ceiling fans, but the one in the living room is quiet a big fan.. The TV is 32 inches...
Well during the day, the TV and the fans might be used but not the bulbs... While in the the whole set might used all together... So basically we are talking about using TV and maybe two fans during the day.. And using four fans, TV and 10 energy saving bulbs in the night...

chris81964:


You can do some basic calculations yourself. TV is rated at about 130 W, The ceiling fan is about 70 watts and the Big fan is about 150 Watts. The energy savings bulbs you can look at the bulb and figure out how many watts.
If you will watch you TV for 8 hours to calculate watt hours will be 130 x 8
Add up the watts of each item and add an extra 20% and that will be the size Inverter you need.
Multiply each appliance by how many hours you intend to run them. Add up the totals and that will give the watt hours.
Divide the watts hours by 24 or 48 (system Voltage) and that will determine how much you consume in AH. Multiply that number by 2. This will double the capacity to make sure you don't discharge the batteries below 50%. To determine what you need in solar panels. You can look at the irradiance chart. Or you can make an educated guess. I use 6 hours of sunshine because I anticipate that I will have NEPA for 2 hours a day and that will assist me in charging the batteries. So divide the Watt hours by 6. If you are off grid divide by 4.5.
After you have done all that calculation, you will know how much in batteries, panels and inverter you need.
Good luck

chris81964:


You can do some basic calculations yourself. TV is rated at about 130 W, The ceiling fan is about 70 watts and the Big fan is about 150 Watts. The energy savings bulbs you can look at the bulb and figure out how many watts.
If you will watch you TV for 8 hours to calculate watt hours will be 130 x 8
Add up the watts of each item and add an extra 20% and that will be the size Inverter you need.
Multiply each appliance by how many hours you intend to run them. Add up the totals and that will give the watt hours.
Divide the watts hours by 24 or 48 (system Voltage) and that will determine how much you consume in AH. Multiply that number by 2. This will double the capacity to make sure you don't discharge the batteries below 50%. To determine what you need in solar panels. You can look at the irradiance chart. Or you can make an educated guess. I use 6 hours of sunshine because I anticipate that I will have NEPA for 2 hours a day and that will assist me in charging the batteries. So divide the Watt hours by 6. If you are off grid divide by 4.5.
After you have done all that calculation, you will know how much in batteries, panels and inverter you need.
Good luck

Sunymoore:

Thanks Bro

geesampower:

You are welcome.
Without actual details of the power rating of your freezer, pressing iron , tv, water heater and 20 bulbs, I can only give an approximate rating.
With the above you will need about 5kw.

Kva is Kw X power factor (p.f)

Ah is used in rating batteries to convert Ah to KWh you multiply by the voltage rating of the battery. 1kw is 1000W

geesampower:
That is just it. All details taken into consideration

chris81964:


I would not put a water heater on solar. There are formulas you can use to determine what you will need. I will give you a simple one. Write down all your loads one after the other. Then write the watts in front of each then write the number of hours you will use each. example 20 energy savings bulbs are 25 watts each. I will have them on for 8 hours a day. It will be 20 x 25 x 8.
Add up every thing (total watt hours) and divide by the system voltage. So if you will use a 24V system divide by 24. That will give you how much battery you use daily. Multiple that result by two to ensure that you don't exceed a 50$ state of discharge.
To calculate the solar side. Divide the watt hours by 4.5 if you are in Lagos. In the North by 5.5. The result is the total watts in panels you need. Email me for more details or a calculation sheet I use for my clients