gabbytabby:
To defend Baba Lati that is trending even from those with no sector academic/professional training and also possess no technical/apprentice training whatsoever it really is amusing to read.

This is the Internet and packaging age such that if you are computer savvy you get to rubbish Baba Lati.
God dey

My sister... each time I read about Baba Lati from those so called Builders/Contractors.. I have to restraint myself from saying something silly.
Those so called educated Builder, who do they hired to do their block works? Do they hire bricklayers with Ph.D in blocklaying?
So I hate when people come here and make mockery or derogatory of calling those Bricklayers "Baba Lati".

Hajji M.

mufutau55:


My sister... each time I read about Baba Lati from those so called Builders/Contractors.. I have to restraint myself from saying something silly.
Those so called educated Builder, who do they hired to do their block works? Do they hire bricklayers with Ph.D in blocklaying?
So I hate when people come here and make mockery or derogatory of calling those Bricklayers "Baba Lati".

Hajji M.

Hajji,

I always use the term "Baba Lati" to tag some very terrible artisan in the trade. It does not mean I'm condemning the uneducated builders. Just like you rightly said, they're the lifeline of most projects.

But trust me, you really don't want to have encounter with "the Baba Lati's of this world" Even some of the educated ones without field experience are also called "Baba Lati"

I'm sorry if you think my comment come off as mockery.

brabus:

Hajji,

I always use the term "Baba Lati" to tag some very terrible artisan in the trade. It does not mean I'm condemning the uneducated builders. Just like you rightly said, they're the lifeline of most projects.

But trust me, you really don't want to have encounter with "the Baba Lati's of this world" Even some of the educated ones without field experience are also called "Baba Lati"

I'm sorry if you think my comment come off as mockery.

I am very sorry that I mistook the term "Baba Lati" which is ONLY used for the Bricklayers from hell.
I am also very happy that the term was generally not being used for the un-educated (school wise) bricklayers.
There is no age limit for apologizing; sorry for my misunderstanding.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:


I am very sorry that I mistook the term "Baba Lati" which is ONLY used for the Bricklayers from hell.
I am also very happy that the term was generally not being used for the un-educated (school wise) bricklayers.
There is no age limit for apologizing; sorry for my misunderstanding.

Hajji M.

Thanks for your understanding.

Anytime I'm on site I always use the expression to caution artisans and even supervisors, "Don't do Baba Lati work for me o?" That means don't do "call me back" type of work for me.

One of your good old friend (lovetosin) sold this expression to me "Ma je ki won to ise Baba Lati fun mi o" "Don't let them do Baba Lati work for me?"

_______________
@lovetosin, sorry for the loss of your dad. May his gentle soul rest in perfect peace. As requested, I'll be at your site this Friday.

gabbytabby:


I think he changed it to one part cement instead of one bag. I work with 1. 1. 5 .

Noted.


Thanks & Appreciate.



Lastpage!

mavverick:
I think i may have found what I think looks like a concrete kitchen worktop.
See the post https://www.nairaland.com/2386637/let-new-house-most-posh

Notice the kitchen worktop, it has tiles on it. I think one can make it look better by for example placing granite\marble on it. That wouldn't have all the tiling and grouting effect that standard tiling comes with.

I actually use it in all my build. Like you say it is indestructible. I will post a picture later today. We have also gotten better at it as we no longer use block and because it is done at lintel stage it also cost next to nothing..

befto:
What did it look like?
is this something that can be used in commercial properties?

its ideal for commercial properties. I will post a picture later today.

befto:
Thank you.

Another quick question (excuse my ignorance). Is it now customary to tile the whole kitchen/bathroom?

In my young days and in some other parts of the world they tile 3/4 lenght (except in the shower) which is fully tiled to ceiling but I notice here that whole kitchens/bathrooms are tiled from ground to top.

With most things you do what you like especially in your private home. For rentals I do the necessary areas most of the time.

[sub][/sub]

lastpage:

You are welcome Sir!


Concrete is Better!
Dont forget to include "Expansion Joints", as you do a Modular concreting, say every 1M interval

No inclusion leads to 'cracks" as time goes-by.


Lastpage!

Which one be expansion joints.

Thanks Madam gabbytabby,
look forward to seeing the pictures. Will definitely be going with this approach as it is for commercial purposes so I need something very strong and indestructible.

Also wil like to see some pictures of your tile works if you don't mind and if you can recommend some good tilers.

You seem to have a good group of people working for you so maybe I can use them if you don't mind.

Thanks again

gabbytabby:


its ideal for commercial properties. I will post a picture later today.

brabus:


Hajji,

I always use the term "Baba Lati" to tag some very terrible artisan in the trade. It does not mean I'm condemning the uneducated builders. Just like you rightly said, they're the lifeline of most projects.

But trust me, you really don't want to have encounter with "the Baba Lati's of this world" Even some of the educated ones without field experience are also called "Baba Lati"

I'm sorry if you think my comment come off as mockery.

See accuse accusing another accuse, talk of quack builders or quack wanna be builders, I think you are the father of all.

nuff said.

lastpage:


There are "Non-Slip" FLOOR Tiles whose surface texture is no smoother (and No less dangerous) than a Cement floor such that the danger you are exposed to, is same as using a Cement floor.

But there is further advantage to these Tiles in that they are "easier to clean and more aesthetically pleasing" than bare Cement floor.


Lastpage!

I went to Orile last week, and I found these tiles during my research.
The surface is very coarse, and Its very hard to see how one can slip on the surface, I can definitely say that one needs to be careful as to what kind of tiles to use in a wet/shower room.

Oga Maverick.
how much were these tiles?

mavverick:


I went to Orile last week, and I found these tiles during my research.
The surface is very coarse, and Its very hard to see how one can slip on the surface, I can definitely say that one needs to be careful as to what kind of tiles to use in a wet/shower room.

Mkt. Slang name for the tiles is pimple, made in nigeria

Thank you. How much do they cost?

rotecch77:
Mkt. Slang name for the tiles is pimple, made in nigeria

befto:
Oga Maverick.
how much were these tiles?

Well, I just priced it but nothing concrete the guys were saying N1,100 per sqm. I am sure if one shows cash they can reduce that further. My trip then to Orile was more of a fact finding mission as I didnt buy anything as such.

One other interesting thing that I learnt which I also confirmed from my plumber, whilst at Orile i priced kitchen sinks as well, I was shown one but it was very light and straight away I said, Oga no waste my time, show me Original !!
We walked briskly into another shop and he said that one was better, said that one is N3,500 last. Here is the thing, my plumber said that used ones as in tokunbo is better quality then those ones that I priced @ 3,500 and were supposed to be new. May God help us sha.

maybe the plumbing experts in the house can shed more light, shame I don't have a picture of that.

Also madam gabbytabby.

Do they use iron rods in the casting of these concrete work tops?
What's the process?

gabbytabby:


its ideal for commercial properties. I will post a picture later today.

@befto and others;I do supply the tiles. For 1000 per meter, then the sink, the issue is that there so many sink in the mkt namely, china, thailand,italian, Germany( you. Can find diff" on each country brand) also the one you priced 3500 I believe is thailand (although I sold it for 3000) truly is better than china made (2500) but the tokunbo is far better bcs most fo then are from Germany and london it's pure. Stainless (rustproof) it can last for many yrs (20yrs above) sold around 3000-4000 depends on the neatness more so you can fine the new one of it cost 18k yes

befto:
Also madam gabbytabby.

Do they use iron rods in the casting of these concrete work tops?
What's the process?

what we do. Carpenter will do the wood using 1by12by12 plank for the surface and bamboo for the base, we set the base of the plank to about 34 inches from the un-tiled floor and about 31 inches if the floor is already tiled. The edge of the plank is set to be filled 3 inches high.

Iron bender then lay 12mm rod. This is followed by the bricklayer who fills with concrete 3 inches thick we use similar mix as for decking

Generally we are flexible ss to when the tiler or cupboard wood is fixed but I tend to prefer the carpenter to do the cupboard then followed by the tiler as it gives a neater finish.

Thanks alot. As usual you never let us down.
We need more and more of you here oooo.

Thanks again

gabbytabby:


what we do. Carpenter will do the wood using 1by12by12 plank for the surface and bamboo for the base, we set the base of the plank to about 34 inches from the un-tiled floor and about 31 inches if the floor is already tiled. The edge of the plank is set to be filled 3 inches high.

Iron bender then lay 12mm rod. This is followed by the bricklayer who fills with concrete 3 inches thick we use similar mix as for decking

Generally we are flexible ss to when the tiler or cupboard wood is fixed but I tend to prefer the carpenter to do the cupboard then followed by the tiler as it gives a neater finish.

Befto

The carpenter needs to leave space cutout for the sink waste so you meed to buy the kitchen sink you want to use before they start work.

Also it better to design your kitchen windows to not more than 3ft height. A 4ft by 4ft creates problems with uniform platform.

Some more pictures

Mama gabby you are right, I did same here.

befto:
Thanks Madam gabbytabby,
look forward to seeing the pictures. Will definitely be going with this approach as it is for commercial purposes so I need something very strong and indestructible.

Also wil like to see some pictures of your tile works if you don't mind and if you can recommend some good tilers.

You seem to have a good group of people working for you so maybe I can use them if you don't mind.

Thanks again

As with most things I have paid my dues and only kept the good ones. But supervision is the key and as I am now in semi retirement I can project manage things myself.

08071331907
Good tiler number is .

rotecch77:
Mama gabby you are right, I did same here.

Nice and neat work rotecch.

This reminds me one lesson learnt a white cement grout looks better than a regular cement grout.I asked them to change to regular cement and it was not as neat.

Rotech and mama Gabby thanks alot.

Do these tiles stand the test of time. Just speaking my friend and he mentioned using a marble surface. what do you think?

rotecch77:
Mama gabby you are right, I did same here.

rotecch77:
Mama gabby you are right, I did same here.

Baba Rotech

How body !!
I never see your brake light for some time now oo.
The tiling you did on the kitchen shown looks OK to me, what size did you use for the worktop surface, and also the legs that the work top sits on, was it casted like a small pillar or did you use blocks to stand it.

I first of all thought of blocks, but thinking about it now if one has mini drawf pillars it looks neater, takes less space and means that the blocks would not get in the way of design of the floor standing cabinets. I just thought with the right pillar width and height, 12mm rebar rods for reinforcement and maybe just 4 pillars needed for a typical L shape worktop.

gabbytabby:


As with most things I have paid my dues and only kept the good ones. But supervision is the key and as I am now in semi retirement I can project manage things myself.

08071331907
Good tiler number is .

Madam Gabbytabby

Thanks again for the info, always good when you take advice from someone who has been there and done it. Unlike our own resident Quack Engineer Brabus (hhhm hmmn clears voice), who rarely completes what he starts peacefully.

You are right about the sink, another important thing that i forgot to mention is that some sinks are left sided and some are right sided, so the sinks needs to be in place so that they can leave the space for the spacing of the bit that dips within a sink i.e where you wash plates.

@Maverick. Very good point. I completely overlooked that

mavverick:


Madam Gabbytabby

Thanks again for the info, always good when you take advice from someone who has been there and done it. Unlike our own resident Quack Engineer Brabus (hhhm hmmn clears voice), who rarely completes what he starts peacefully.

You are right about the sink, another important thing that i forgot to mention is that some sinks are left sided and some are right sided, so the sinks needs to be in place so that they can leave the space for the spacing of the bit that dips within a sink i.e where you wash plates.

mavverick:


Baba Rotech

How body !!
I never see your brake light for some time now oo.
The tiling you did on the kitchen shown looks OK to me, what size did you use for the worktop surface, and also the legs that the work top sits on, was it casted like a small pillar or did you use blocks to stand it.

I first of all thought of blocks, but thinking about it now if one has mini drawf pillars it looks neater, takes less space and means that the blocks would not get in the way of design of the floor standing cabinets. I just thought with the right pillar width and height, 12mm rebar rods for reinforcement and maybe just 4 pillars needed for a typical L shape worktop.

Not unless you want one, you actually do not need any footings as provided you put the iron rod into the wall it will stand on its own as suspended with just thr cupboard underneath.

gabbytabby:

what we do. Carpenter will do the wood using 1by12by12 plank for the surface and bamboo for the base, we set the base of the plank to about 34 inches from the un-tiled floor and about 31 inches if the floor is already tiled. The edge of the plank is set to be filled 3 inches high.

Iron bender then lay 12mm rod. This is followed by the bricklayer who fills with concrete 3 inches thick we use similar mix as for decking

Generally we are flexible ss to when the tiler or cupboard wood is fixed but I tend to prefer the carpenter to do the cupboard then followed by the tiler as it gives a neater finish.

Good solution for rental properties... Especially for those tenants from hell.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:


Good solution for rental properties... Especially for those tenants from hell.

Hajji M.

Tell me about it.

gabbytabby:
Not unless you want one, you actually do not need any footings as provided you put the iron rod into the wall it will stand on its own as suspended with just thr cupboard underneath.

Ok thanks Gabbytabby for this.

When you say so far you put the iron inside the wall, I still want to understand what will support the weight of the slab. I know its not going to be very thick or heavy. I am just thinking it has to be able to support some weight, you know it will have microwave, pots, tiles/granite on it and any other kitchen paraphernalia.

Also, not an engineer but I am trying to figure out what will support it, I see one option which is to have strong iron/pipe inserted into the wall and the suspended slab sat on it. The other option is to tie the rod to the pillars or something, but that would mean chiseling the concrete and iron bender using binding wire to tie a 12mm mesh like structure to it, It just doesnt sound like something straight forward.

Our original resident engineers, please oo this is a question for you.