true2home:
This is how most structural engineers are trained to design in the US. Its actually the best method of building multilevel accommodations. The only problem i ran into in Nigeria and the application of this method is the lack of steel plants in Nigeria. Hence the expensive cost of importing the needed steel specifications.

You're not based in Nigeria I guess. I can show you 100 buildings built the same way in Lagos, Nigeria. It's not a new thing and there are hundreds of steel plants in Nigeria.

The largest steel structure in Africa (adjudged to be the biggest auditorium in the world) is the RCCG 3km by 3km Camp, all the steel used were from local manufacturers while Nigerite did the roofing.

Ongoing Construction of Chelsea Hotel, Lagos | Just for your delight

Chelsea Hotel | Cladding the steel structure

Other Projects

1. Abuja World Trade Center
2. Millenium Towers, Abuja
3. And more

I didn't say that we do not have such buildings in Nigeria. Its not economical and am not sure if you understand what am saying. How many manufacturer of Iron Steel do we have in Nigeria? I don't know of much; especially when we do not have enough power for our home yet. W2x..., L2, T2 etc are too costly to purchase in Nigeria. And by the way, there is nothing going on in Nigeria that im not familiar with. I don't live there,but im never too far away either. Love Nigeria like KiLODE!!! I know about EKO Atlantic way before most Nigerian did and as you can see there, not much of it is steel structure so far. And that's the only large single concentrated project thus far with pedigree

n3xt:


You're not based in Nigeria I guess. I can show you 100 buildings built the same way in Lagos, Nigeria. It's not a new thing and there are hundreds of steel plants in Nigeria.

The largest steel structure in Africa (adjudged to be the biggest auditorium in the world) is the RCCG 3km by 3km Camp, all the steel used were from local manufacturers while Nigerite did the roofing.

Baba true2home, you don't mean you will recommend steel on the seashore. Just teasing though. What about corrosion.
Construction at the Atlantic will require stainless steel which is very expensive. However, there are lots of steel manufacturers in Nigeria.

Steel is relatively cheaper in Multi Floor Constructions.

Steel is relatively cheaper in Multi Floor Constructions...This the point i was try to get out. Anyways, good job on your out of the box adventures

n3xt:
Baba true2home, you don't mean you will recommend steel on the seashore. Just teasing though. What about corrosion.
Construction at the Atlantic will require stainless steel which is very expensive. However, there are lots of steel manufacturers in Nigeria.

Steel is relatively cheaper in Multi Floor Constructions.

Steel rod selling @ N127,000-N132,000/ton which way Nigeria...

Thanks @diordaves . The site is at issele-uku and it's same land with ogwashi uku and asaba. How can I re do the dpc ? With pictures if Any ? Thanks .

P291:
There are many Ma; ABS, JK...you can easily get which one you want in the market thou quality differs.

Cement+ POP emulsion paint+ Bond/Gum.

You can use ordinary cement for your external wall screeding to blend with your plastering, and white for the internal wall as it reflects more light.

@P291 Thanks for your response. I really needed it. So is it jt to mix ABS cement +POP cement + emulsion paint + bond together? Is there a ratio for mixing them together? I Wil b grateful for your response. Pls I also welcome ideas frm everyone that knows much abt screeding. Thanks

Any information on Bozac Aluminium, especially their longspan roofing product line?

Muchas gracias mi amigos.

L

Is this the way forward, and I wonder how much it will cost for a 60 x 120 standard plot. Using this short bored pile vs 2 board raft all the way around.



EFFICIENT TO USE SHORT BORED PILES FOR PERIMETER FENCING IN SWAMPY AREAS?


It makes more economic sense to use short bored piles for perimeter fencing in swampy areas than to use raft or deep strip foundation which is in common use, it has been observed. However it is important to do it the right way. Generally, perimeter fence consists of non-load bearing walls or partially load-bearing walls depending on its use and configuration; hence the use of short bored piles is structurally permissible. By constructing reinforced concrete piles with adequate spacing, usually not more than 6m apart and capping them together longitudinally, fence walls of up to 4m can be built directly over the cap (or longitudinal bearing) saving the volume of concrete by up to 50%. Apart from being economical to use short bored piles capped together, it is equally structurally efficient.

Short bored piles are so called because they are constructed by boring the ground and then filling with reinforced concrete or mass concrete and they normally do not exceed 5-metres in depth. They are relatively easier and quicker to construct unlike the longer ones. Once the depth of suitable soil strata is established, rather than constructing raft or strip which consumes cost associated with trench excavation, formwork consisting of several boards lapped together with a lot of bracing as well as heavy reinforcement accompanying the concrete in foundation which is the common practice, it is faster and cheaper to use short bored piles.

Once the fencing layer is filled, prepared and the boring points are marked, the boring is done simultaneously with the insertion of the reinforcing steel piles (usually no casing is required) and concrete in an operation that may not usually do not last more than 30 minutes per point depending on the nature of the soil beneath. When the piles are set, a network of steel reinforcement is used to cap the starter bars of all the piles together. Te set up is casted in concrete and is now set to receive the blocks or bricks for the fence. Presently, it cost an average of 10,000 NGN (depending on the area) to bore and fill a point. Hence for a 36m length which could be one face of a standard plot, only about 7 points is required and the volume of concrete is therefore minimal. With the cost per cubic metre of concrete still hovering around 30,000 NGN, it is more than logical to conclude that short bored pile foundation for perimeter fencing in swampy or water-logged areas is the way to go especially for large areas like residential estates, industrial complexes, etc.

Culled from Castles Magazine.
Article by Engr. Osaz ENOBAKHARE

A bag of elephant superset cement and a bag of Dangote 3X cement. Which is costlier? Anyone in the house that can help with this info. Thanks

elephant superset cement is basically for block m
aking, dangote 3x is another type of cement which 42.5 grade they are two different types of cement for different purposes
the price depends on your location and quantity but I think 1450 - 1650

Good day house,pls I need help so I dnt get cheated as am not on ground to find out prices for these things and dnt want to get family involved,I sometime posted a plan for a 4bedroom bungalow I want to erect in Benin and the engineer handling the project just gave me an estimate of the following from foundation to parapet level. MOULDING OF BLOCK (5,057)
1)sharp sand 9 trips @15,000=135,500
2)cement bags 128@1,700=217,600
3)moulder 128@700=89,600
4)water 12,000
TOTAL=454,200

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS
1)cement bags 247@1,700=419,900
2)stone base 1 trailer load@140,000=140,000
3)granite 15 tons@6,000=90,000
4)sharp sand 5 trips@15,000=75,000
5)laterite 25 trips@8,000=200,000
6)12mm re-inforcement bar 130@1400=182,000
7)10mm re-inforcement bar 70@1,100=77,000
8mm re-inforcement bar 30@850=25,500
9)binding wire coil 2@4,000=8,000
10)1x12 S/W 80PCs@1,700=136,000
11)1x6 S/W 50PCs@850=42,500
12)1x5 S/W 80PCs@850=68,000
13)2x2 S/W 15PCs@450=6,750
14)Nail 4,3&2 4bags@7,000=28,000
15)clearing of site 20,000
16)water 12,000
17)transportation 29,000
TOTAL=1,559,650

LABOUR
1)Excavation
2)pouring of in-situ concrete
3)Setting of block wall
4)preparation of form work
5)preparation of re-inforcement
6)casting of re-inforced concrete
7)construction of parapet
professional charge
TOTAL=1,090,000


SUMMARY
1)moulding of block=454,200
2)Construction materials=1,559,650
3)Labour=1,090,000
TOTAL=3,103,850


Attached is the building in question

Teebawse:
Good day house,pls I need help so I dnt get cheated as am not on ground to find out prices for these things and dnt want to get family involved,I sometime posted a plan for a 4bedroom bungalow I want to erect in Benin and the engineer handling the project just gave me an estimate of the following from foundation to parapet level. MOULDING OF BLOCK (5,057)
1)sharp sand 9 trips @15,000=135,500
2)cement bags 128@1,700=217,600
3)moulder 128@700=89,600
4)water 12,000
TOTAL=454,200

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS
1)cement bags 247@1,700=419,900
2)stone base 1 trailer load@140,000=140,000
3)granite 15 tons@6,000=90,000
4)sharp sand 5 trips@15,000=75,000
5)laterite 25 trips@8,000=200,000
6)12mm re-inforcement bar 130@1400=182,000
7)10mm re-inforcement bar 70@1,100=77,000
8mm re-inforcement bar 30@850=25,500
9)binding wire coil 2@4,000=8,000
10)1x12 S/W 80PCs@1,700=136,000
11)1x6 S/W 50PCs@850=42,500
12)1x5 S/W 80PCs@850=68,000
13)2x2 S/W 15PCs@450=6,750
14)Nail 4,3&2 4bags@7,000=28,000
15)clearing of site 20,000
16)water 12,000
17)transportation 29,000
TOTAL=1,559,650

LABOUR
1)Excavation
2)pouring of in-situ concrete
3)Setting of block wall
4)preparation of form work
5)preparation of re-inforcement
6)casting of re-inforced concrete
7)construction of parapet
professional charge
TOTAL=1,090,000


SUMMARY
1)moulding of block=454,200
2)Construction materials=1,559,650
3)Labour=1,090,000
TOTAL=3,103,850


Attached is the building in question

very scaring, segcy14 pls respond to this.

@ Teebawse, the estimate is fair enough. Anything less will be very worrisome.

mavverick:
Is this the way forward, and I wonder how much it will cost for a 60 x 120 standard plot. Using this short bored pile vs 2 board raft all the way around.



EFFICIENT TO USE SHORT BORED PILES FOR PERIMETER FENCING IN SWAMPY AREAS?


It makes more economic sense to use short bored piles for perimeter fencing in swampy areas than to use raft or deep strip foundation which is in common use, it has been observed. However it is important to do it the right way. Generally, perimeter fence consists of non-load bearing walls or partially load-bearing walls depending on its use and configuration; hence the use of short bored piles is structurally permissible. By constructing reinforced concrete piles with adequate spacing, usually not more than 6m apart and capping them together longitudinally, fence walls of up to 4m can be built directly over the cap (or longitudinal bearing) saving the volume of concrete by up to 50%. Apart from being economical to use short bored piles capped together, it is equally structurally efficient.

Short bored piles are so called because they are constructed by boring the ground and then filling with reinforced concrete or mass concrete and they normally do not exceed 5-metres in depth. They are relatively easier and quicker to construct unlike the longer ones. Once the depth of suitable soil strata is established, rather than constructing raft or strip which consumes cost associated with trench excavation, formwork consisting of several boards lapped together with a lot of bracing as well as heavy reinforcement accompanying the concrete in foundation which is the common practice, it is faster and cheaper to use short bored piles.

Once the fencing layer is filled, prepared and the boring points are marked, the boring is done simultaneously with the insertion of the reinforcing steel piles (usually no casing is required) and concrete in an operation that may not usually do not last more than 30 minutes per point depending on the nature of the soil beneath. When the piles are set, a network of steel reinforcement is used to cap the starter bars of all the piles together. Te set up is casted in concrete and is now set to receive the blocks or bricks for the fence. Presently, it cost an average of 10,000 NGN (depending on the area) to bore and fill a point. Hence for a 36m length which could be one face of a standard plot, only about 7 points is required and the volume of concrete is therefore minimal. With the cost per cubic metre of concrete still hovering around 30,000 NGN, it is more than logical to conclude that short bored pile foundation for perimeter fencing in swampy or water-logged areas is the way to go especially for large areas like residential estates, industrial complexes, etc.

Culled from Castles Magazine.
Article by Engr. Osaz ENOBAKHARE

There is already a misconception about raft foundation here. Raft foundation don't support line load/wall land, such type of foundation is called beam on grade foundation. This grade on beam foundation is a continuous reinforced concrete members use to support load with minimal bending ( wall loads).

This beam on grade foundation can either be supported by soil beneath if the soil have adequate properties or pilliing in areas with poor soil ( water lodged soil).

Responding to this article, it is more expensive to construct pile foundation or more appropriately '' pier and beam foundation or post and beam foundation) than reinforced wide strip footing or ordinary beam on grade foundation because you will need this pier to be spaced closer to each other and you will need to connect them with grade beam of adequate depth and reinforcement. in practice, this method is an advanced form of beam on grade foundation.

The choice of any of these type of foundation depends on the type of structure and soil conditions. In expansive soil where there is a distinct wet season ( the soil behave like water lodged) or dry season when the soil is normal, a wide strip can be use to carry a fence wall of up to 4m ( a minimum line land of less than 15kN/m) provided the water is kept away from the foundation.
A grade on beam supported by the soil below can also be use while the most expensive and structurally sound option is to use grade beam supported on pier or pilling

@ mavverick, 6m spacing is too much. If
You keep it at 4m, you'll have between 15 - 18 points.

Why not excavate the vegetable soil and replace it with good bearing soil. The advantages of these design outweighs its disadvantages. Not only have you been able to adequately secure your perimeters, you have actually been able to deal with water issue by 30% by reducing what gets to your foundation.

This is a standard recommendation for terrains with weak soil. Pile is only recommended where there are no other option.

I can't remember the ID of the Nairalander who excavated almost 4m vegetable soil, replaced with soils with good bearing capacity from his land in Chevron to raise a 3 floor structure.

n3xt:


@ AZUH, all solutions and suggestions given here still point to the same thing I've told you earlier. Keep the water away from your foundation.

It doesn't take a rocket science to do this. A perimeter drain will solve this issue once and for all. I stopped responding to the whatsapp chats because it seems you have your own solution, you just wanted someone to give you a nod. I've asked you to allow me speak with at least one professional on your site so that we can rub minds but it seems you doubt my proposed solution.

Wraparound will help you deal with surface water but perimeter drain can help you with ground water.
Interestingly you can do this even in the interiors. And it's cheaper than you can ever imagine.

Just do the perimeter drain (internally/externally as you deem fit) and tie everything to a sump. Finish!

^^^

Why then can't you apply the same fix for me since you are the one that build the house from scratch to decking? I still have the same problem till today and I've tried about everything I could.

Qc1:



^^^

Why then can't you apply the same fix for me since you are the one that build the house from scratch to decking? I still have the same problem till today and I've tried about everything I could.

Baba, I proposed a different solution for your terrain which is on the receiving end of a very steep slope.

If you'll remember the pictures attached below. I made the drawing in 2013 to explain the solution. A v-ditch collects the water and takes it away from your property further down into communal drain.
The aim is to stop the inflow of water coming from uphill.

It's not a cheap solution because you'll have to take care of your property and all beside you to get result. The solution can mean acquiring the next plot to you to protect your property since no one is building after you and you're at the receiving end.

n3xt:


Baba, I proposed a different solution for your terrain which is on the receiving end of a very steep slope.

If you'll remember the pictures attached below. I made the drawing in 2013 to explain the solution. A v-ditch collects the water and takes it away from your property further down into communal drain.
The aim is to stop the inflow of water coming from uphill.

It's not a cheap solution because you'll have to take care of your property and all beside you to get result. The solution can mean acquiring the next plot to you to protect your property since no one is building after you and you're at the receiving end.

I don't need no silly proposal, I WANT A FIX !!!

I don't need no silly proposal, I WANT A FIX !!!

Was I supposed to get your internet comment to problem physically

It's seems that you like to run your mount on the internet like Ben Bruce yet, you hate to fix your mess on site. How many times do we have to drag this?

The pictures below shows what I have to deal with because of you. How can you be so draft to build a house this low on a swampy land?

MR. Internet fix expert!

Sir Qc1, if it is the foundation height, I believe we did the needful. The only thing we didn't do is to stop the water which I was constantly hammering on.

The building is at the receiving end of a valley (two steep slopes). A proper channeling of water away from the foundation to government drainage is the fix bro.
Whenever it rains, the water will carry leftover sands and dirts off the road and they'll fill up the compound at the end of the road if not properly channeled away from the building.

We discussed this all this but none was implemented.

hello everyone
If you need the services of a civil engineer in building or site supervision in Benin city, kindly contact Engr ehis on 08051437357, he is very experienced and truth worthy.
Nb- am only posting this on his behalf he is new to nairaland

n3xt:
Sir Qc1, if it is the foundation height, I believe we did the needful. The only thing we didn't do is to stop the water which I was constantly hammering on.

The building is at the receiving end of a valley (two steep slopes). A proper channeling of water away from the foundation to government drainage is the fix bro.
Whenever it rains, the water will carry leftover sands and dirts off the road and they'll fill up the compound at the end of the road if not properly channeled away from the building.

We discussed this all this but none was implemented.

^^^
Really? All you hammered on is the foundation height. Take a look at the pic below a year after the foundation you did, look at the level of the house and the compound level. The pictures you posted was just 21 days or so after breaking the ground. My pictures is one year after that.

Sir Qc1, I can remember pointing out all these problems to you.

I told you I witness the same challenge as your site. Also at the end of a slope (not steep) and few metres away from river overflow.
I didn't bother about the fence. I did everything and anything I can to protect the property. I dug a fish pond, almost half a plot. I've dug a new one again. Not because unwanted to be a fisherman. Install Damproof membrane round it. Redirect the water course. Put reinforcement on the fish pond walls and pour the concrete.

I poured my compound to keep water from entering into the ground after Sandfilling with stonebase.

I knew when the pond overflow, then there a bigger problem.

The more drainages kept getting blocked, water keeps percolating on site and runoff from the slope keeps wet the sand, the foundation will experience trouble. Hence the reason why keeping off water has been my shout from the beginning till handoff.

_______
Anyway, this is not to exonerate or apportion blames but to find a fix.

Oga QC1 so this is what you've been going through for your site?

But Bosun said he advised you na.

n3xt:
Sir Qc1, I can remember pointing out all these problems to you.

I told you I witness the same challenge as your site. Also at the end of a slope (not steep) and few metres away from river overflow.
I didn't bother about the fence. I did everything and anything I can to protect the property. I dug a fish pond, almost half a plot. I've dug a new one again. Not because unwanted to be a fisherman. Install Damproof membrane round it. Redirect the water course. Put reinforcement on the fish pond walls and pour the concrete.

I poured my compound to keep water from entering into the ground after Sandfilling with stonebase.

I knew when the pond overflow, then there a bigger problem.

The more drainages kept getting blocked, water keeps percolating on site and runoff from the slope keeps wet the sand, the foundation will experience trouble. Hence the reason why keeping off water has been my shout from the beginning till handoff.

_______
Anyway, this is not to exonerate or apportion blames but to find a fix.

I don't care what you did for others! I WANT A FIX FOR ME AND NOT OTHERS!

That's not the pic of my house you posted there, and that wasn't me you had that discussion with! I never paid you through internet but in person, why can't you applied the same principle and be physically present on the site in person for a fix?

Qc1:



I don't care what you did for others! I WANT A FIX FOR ME AND NOT OTHERS!

That's not the pic of my house you posted there, and that wasn't me you had that discussion with! I never paid you through internet but in person, why can't you applied the same principle and be physically present on the site in person for a fix?

Bros, you forgot that this is what made us to part ways when you wanted to construct your drainage and I said I cannot do it for the budget you are proposing considering the terrain. And you went ahead and do it by yourself. Sandfill the compound yourself. Even did the drainages yourself.
I can still remember when I walked in on a Sunday morning and I saw the abokis working on the drainage.

I only missed one day out of over 50 days spent on your site. You'll remember that.

The pic taken is the front of your house.