I dont know about you guys o but every time I see the picture of this policeman beating this fraudster........it crank the hell outta me

danowena:


I see your point and this is same reason that most advocates for the roof water collector give. However, will this reason hold for buildings with foundations continuously in water? Because from basic building knowledge that I have, raft is used in water logged areas because the foundation is expected to be in water for most part of the year and if blocks were to be used, they will be weakened.

As an example, I have a place in a water logged area on the mainland. Even though I have sand-filled, when you dig up to 70cm, you will hit water and when it rains heavily, you need to only dig 30 cm and you will hit water. in this kind of case, of what use is a roof gutter? the main source of the water is not even water from your roof but the natural water level for the area. The street gutter is usually always with water. Mind you, on this house, I have roof water collector that is channeled to the street gutter but I had to sit down to ask myself that aside from aesthetics, what is this roof gutter really doing? Water will hit the building one way or the other. The roof water collector takes the rain water and channels it to the gutter alright. But the gutter is usually at the natural water level of the area so what's the point?

In my opinion, I believe the reasons you gave will fly for dry areas like where OGA Mufutau55 and EgunMogaji are building. By this I mean areas that are usually dry and are likely to only get temporary wet during lengthy rainfall. But for areas like mine that is continuously in water, I feel it does not fly because channeling the roof water or not doesn't reduce the height of water around your foundation. Unless you are channeling it for further use via a receptive tank.

I might be wrong so I am open to correction

Ok sometimes we don't understand what the term raft foundation exactly means. The term raft is related to the term raft boat. google raft boat. A raft foundation just like a boat needs to be water tight , if not the boat will capsize because of the water that gets in causing it to be unstable or over weight, water is heavy (hence why blocks are not used because the cement/mortar used to bond the blocks together will fail over time and lead to water entering the boat/foundation) another important requirement is that a raft/boat also needs to be stable , imagine if you have 10 fat people in front of the boat and two skinny people at the back of the boat what happens? the boat tips if you are lucky to the front, but mostly likely will capsize. Now the importance of the gutter is this, The more soaked the soil is the less its weight carrying ability,so if the water from the roof hits the area exposed to this deluge of water, the part of the raft foundation close (underneath and by the side)to this water soaked soil is now perched on soil that has less weight carrying capabilities, so guess what happens ? the raft becomes unstable like the boat with the fat and skinny people on board mentioned earlier on. This area of the foundation starts sinking but not the whole slab, it then means that parts of the walls are being pulled meaning they will start cracking, serious fractures will occur in the wall system holding up the house, the house could then collapse/capsize like the boat.

Although I am an experienced builder I am also a farmer, so please spread the word about Jessam Cattle Ranch and Farms. We have great pigs, chickens, eggs, ducks, goats, cattle etc

Segcymoor is currently working in partnersghip on one of our (Dolphin Real Estate) residential building projects - https://www.nairaland.com/2753189/wing-duplex-flat-ajah-moore

Please can somebody give me the breakdown on the cost of building a. One bedroom flat

Sammijokase:
Please can somebody give me the breakdown on the cost of building a. One bedroom flat

no size?

Onuokwu:


The place i tested had a recommended pile depth of 26 meters. This meant i had to use steel casing for the pile as the report specifically said that good old rods encircled with Bagco super sack won't do. PVC casing was also discouraged. I am sure you know the cost implication of those steel cases. How did you achieve your pile to that depth?

3 bed is about N1 million now. At least thats what mine attracts. Demand in that area drives the investment. Half of the tenants in my Akoka multidwell are Lekki/Ajah returnees with main reason for "porting" back to mainland being easier traffic and better value for a N1 million rent house.

26 ft or 26 m ?...that is a lot! What soil type did the soil test find?

3strikes:
I dont know about you guys o but every time I see the picture of this policeman beating this fraudster........it crank the hell outta me

1) I literarily loud out loud each time I see it.

2) The policeman is hefty like me but is determined to catch the thin guy and he did. Look at his stride.

3) The thin guy is an artful dodger who is used to getting whipped so he's demonstrating his dodging skills.

I love pictures that tells stories

So I found these pics on Segcymoor's thread. This are the kind of things we should be talking about or suggesting to QC1... not building basements in swamps o Who even want a basement in the swamp by the way?

Abeg anyone heard of this waterproofing chemical before? can one use this for house plastering too so as to prevent wet walls ?

Jessam:


Ok sometimes we don't understand what the term raft foundation exactly means. The term raft is related to the term raft boat. google raft boat. A raft foundation just like a boat needs to be water tight , if not the boat will capsize because of the water that gets in causing it to be unstable or over weight, water is heavy (hence why blocks are not used because the cement/mortar used to bond the blocks together will fail over time and lead to water entering the boat/foundation) another important requirement is that a raft/boat also needs to be stable , imagine if you have 10 fat people in front of the boat and two skinny people at the back of the boat what happens? the boat tips if you are lucky to the front, but mostly likely will capsize. Now the importance of the gutter is this, The more soaked the soil is the less its weight carrying ability,so if the water from the roof hits the area exposed to this deluge of water, the part of the raft foundation close (underneath and by the side)to this water soaked soil is now perched on soil that has less weight carrying capabilities, so guess what happens ? the raft becomes unstable like the boat with the fat and skinny people on board mentioned earlier on. This area of the foundation starts sinking but not the whole slab, it then means that parts of the walls are being pulled meaning they will start cracking, serious fractures will occur in the wall system holding up the house, the house could then collapse/capsize like the boat.

Although I am an experienced builder I am also a farmer, so please spread the word about Jessam Cattle Ranch and Farms. We have great pigs, chickens, eggs, ducks, goats, cattle etc

Segcymoor is currently working in partnersghip on one of our (Dolphin Real Estate) residential building projects - https://www.nairaland.com/2753189/wing-duplex-flat-ajah-moore

An unrelated flip example of keeping water away from foundation.

In north Texas we actually have to water the edges of our foundation during the summer so that the soil doesn't pull away from the foundation.

And we have to minimize the amount of water we allow to reach the foundation area in the rainy season = gutters.

Yes, there's electronic device you can buy to tell you if you have too much or too little water. Technology.

I yield the floor to my well heeled coforumers and their N4m foundations

..

OnetimeOnly:


26 ft or 26 m ?...that is a lot! What soil type did the soil test find?

26 meters!

0 - 2.5 m: Light reddish brown, silty sandy lateritic clay
2.5 - 19m: Dark grey very soft peaty organic clay with dead wood
19 - 22m: Light brownish grey soft to firm clay
22 - 24m: Light grey medium clayey silty sand (cmd)with occasional fine to coarse gravel
24 - 26 m: light grey soft to firm clay
26m - 30m: Light grey medium to density silty sand (cmd) with to coarse gravel

Now the worrisome fact is that any geotechnical engineer who is not diligent may have stopped at 22 - 24 meter level of investigation and recommended pile points at that level. But note that this soil strata is good for only 2 meters and is closely followed by poor load bearing soil.

I was made to understand that any house with pile points terminating at that 24 meter level is still at risk.

Generally, the engineers recommend using steel casing for any pile going beyond the 20 meter mark.

Hope this helps.

..

Onuokwu:


26 meters! I will search out the investigation report and post the soil types.

Wow. Please do. You may need a second opinion on that. That seems high to me,even though I can't give informed opinion , and no 2 soils are the same. I'll post something on foundation soon.

say no to fraudsters!

.,

.

OnetimeOnly:

Wow. Please do. You may need a second opinion on that. That seems high to me,even though I can't give informed opinion , and no 2 soils are the same. I'll post something on foundation soon.

I have modified my earlier post to capture the soil test report but...here it is anyway

0 - 2.5 m: Light reddish brown, silty sandy lateritic clay
2.5 - 19m: Dark grey very soft peaty organic clay with dead wood
19 - 22m: Light brownish grey soft to firm clay
22 - 24m: Light grey medium clayey silty sand (cmd)with occasional fine to coarse gravel
24 - 26 m: light grey soft to firm clay
26m - 30m: Light grey medium to density silty sand (cmd) with to coarse gravel

Now the worrisome fact is that any geotechnical engineer who is not diligent may have stopped at 22 - 24 meter level of investigation and recommended pile points at that level. But note that this soil strata is good for only 2 meters and is closely followed by poor load bearing soil.

I was made to understand that any house with pile points terminating at that 24 meter level is still at risk.

Generally, the engineers recommend using steel casing for any pile going beyond the 20 meter mark.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for your explanation. I really enjoyed your analogy.

Side note: I saw your posting on spyder880 thread of his estate. You mentioned your farm was very close to it. I missed out on his estate, though I'm still looking for land in enugu. I would really like to visit your farm when I'm around next just to see what it looks like and the kind of products you provide.

Jessam:


Ok sometimes we don't understand what the term raft foundation exactly means. The term raft is related to the term raft boat. google raft boat. A raft foundation just like a boat needs to be water tight , if not the boat will capsize because of the water that gets in causing it to be unstable or over weight, water is heavy (hence why blocks are not used because the cement/mortar used to bond the blocks together will fail over time and lead to water entering the boat/foundation) another important requirement is that a raft/boat also needs to be stable , imagine if you have 10 fat people in front of the boat and two skinny people at the back of the boat what happens? the boat tips if you are lucky to the front, but mostly likely will capsize. Now the importance of the gutter is this, The more soaked the soil is the less its weight carrying ability,so if the water from the roof hits the area exposed to this deluge of water, the part of the raft foundation close (underneath and by the side)to this water soaked soil is now perched on soil that has less weight carrying capabilities, so guess what happens ? the raft becomes unstable like the boat with the fat and skinny people on board mentioned earlier on. This area of the foundation starts sinking but not the whole slab, it then means that parts of the walls are being pulled meaning they will start cracking, serious fractures will occur in the wall system holding up the house, the house could then collapse/capsize like the boat.

Although I am an experienced builder I am also a farmer, so please spread the word about Jessam Cattle Ranch and Farms. We have great pigs, chickens, eggs, ducks, goats, cattle etc

Segcymoor is currently working in partnersghip on one of our (Dolphin Real Estate) residential building projects - https://www.nairaland.com/2753189/wing-duplex-flat-ajah-moore

n3xt:
@ onokwu,

Smh! Honestly we need better property website in Nigeria. Website that help people to determine where to invest.

I don't want to talk cos dem go say he too know but some areas don't really worth the effort.

Dove my hat for your Akoka decision. But you sef go be don o... Those area boys na die! I learnt one of their team leader (Anarchy) was killed few months ago.


__________
Another bad area is Ogudu Orioke side. Bros that one too worse. Cellular raft is what works in that area.

I think we have talked about area boy strategy on this thread before. I spent grand total of n150,000.00 to settle them throughout the build. two deckings! There is usually disbelief when i tell people that but it all balls down to how you handle it. Use "reverse police delay" strategy.

The area boys are always killing themselves in that axis as part of ongoing cult wars, but in my CDA we have effectively checked them and have no complaints for now.

..

Onuokwu:


I have modified my earlier post to capture the soil test report but...here it is anyway

0 - 2.5 m: Light reddish brown, silty sandy lateritic clay
2.5 - 19m: Dark grey very soft peaty organic clay with dead wood
19 - 22m: Light brownish grey soft to firm clay
22 - 24m: Light grey medium clayey silty sand (cmd)with occasional fine to coarse gravel
24 - 26 m: light grey soft to firm clay
26m - 30m: Light grey medium to density silty sand (cmd) with to coarse gravel

Now the worrisome fact is that any geotechnical engineer who is not diligent may have stopped at 22 - 24 meter level of investigation and recommended pile points at that level. But note that this soil strata is good for only 2 meters and is closely followed by poor load bearing soil.

I was made to understand that any house with pile points terminating at that 24 meter level is still at risk.

Generally, the engineers recommend using steel casing for any pile going beyond the 20 meter mark.

Hope this helps.

So apparently the soil test did not capture load bearing capacity at various depths? I think that test needs to be put in perspective. I know no 2 soils and building are the same, but for example burj all Arab foundation depth is 40m driven (don't crucify me for using burj, but we all know that building ) and it's in low loaf bearing soil so.... 26 m means your building foundations will be 8 stories deep for 3 story building

3strikes:



Esu orita if you go over the thread you will see why. Egun is now born again. The shyster's jazz no dey work on him again. but few are still in his web. only the truth can set them free.

3strikes, my moniker is esoorita and not Esu orita. I'm not related to the devil please. Esoorita which literarilly translates to the beauty of a 3 way junction in Ekiti dialect. However, I got your gist about the new position of Egunmogaji oko Afusa.

.

EgunMogaji:


Village roof

Chief na that one they vex you since .
Oya sorry no vex again

write2obi:

Chief na that one they vex you since .
Oya sorry no vex again

You know exactly what it was because you and I discussed it in detail.

We're still waiting for you to say amen to the prayer did for you and to post a successfully completed project done by your lobbying benefactor

#MySignature

EgunMogaji:


You know exactly what it was because you and I discussed it in detail.

We're still waiting for you to say amen to the prayer did for you and to post a successfully completed project done by your lobbying benefactor

#MySignature

I SMH at the bolded.
I believe I've made my point already, so you are free to say whatever you want.

mufutau55:


Steptiles and Metcopo are made from the same aluminium, it's just a different style or design.
I bought imported because with the recent price rise, both Tower and First Aluminium are too much for me.
They both want something like N2,300 for 0.55mm Metcoppo and Longspan is about N1,800 per sqm.
So I opted for imported version: Metcoppo N1,700, Steptiles N1,600, Longspan N,1500 from http://www.jonytechaluminium.com/
My brother went directly to their factory. I am not sure if the price has changed now sha...

Hajji M.

Thanks @Mufutau55. I found this.

Do good for good to come your way!

write2obi:

I SMH at the bolded.
I believe I've made my point already, so you are free to say whatever you want.

And I will

n3xt:
@ onokwu,

Unloading the existing foundation at Community Road, Akoka.
Interesting Features

- 35 piles
- 1.2m beam sitting on the pile caps
- Suspended DPC slab
- No Sandfilling.

Status - Done

@Brabus, @AbdulWastecx and @Spyderman

I am looking at the attached Suspended Slab and two things crossed my mind.

1.) Those voids below the Suspended Slab are surrounded by four sides of vertical concrete Walls. This means each "cubicle" is an enclosed space.
Since they are not sand-filled, it also means they would have water stored in them, below the suspended Slab.

I am wondering, will it be a bad idea to introduce a small PIPE in one of the sides of the vertical walls so as to act as a channel for such water to flow-away, in situations where the really become much?
It wont cost anything structurally but could help elongate the life of the structure or at least make underneath more "homely"!


2.) Those 1 x 12 Boards used to create the suspended slab will number no less than 300! At about a thousand each, that equates to about 300K!
I am not sure but l am assuming those Boards will be permanently buried under the Slab.
Since there is still a lot of need/use for those Boards as the building develops, l am wondering: Is there any way those Boards can be recovered (say for re-use).

I am always looking for ways to "innovate and be more efficient" in everything l do, so you can understand the way l see things.... maybe a lil'different.

whats your take?




Lastpage!

3strikes:
So I found these pics on Segcymoor's thread. This are the kind of things we should be talking about or suggesting to QC1... not building basements in swamps o Who even want a basement in the swamp by the way?

Abeg anyone heard of this waterproofing chemical before? can one use this for house plastering too so as to prevent wet walls ?

I type not as an engineer but as a research manufacturer with some experience in cement setting application for wall screeding application.
The product above would work to prevent wet walls. It has several ways of achieving this.
These type of materials are organic polymer in emulsion form ( nylon or rubber dispersed in water).
They reduce water requirement of a concrete or plaster slurry to give a denser concrete, they form light film over the concrete or plaster to trap water within the plaster/concrete to reduce evaporation and ensure proper hydration of the cement, the polymers form a waterproof nylon like materials over and within the concrete/ plaster filling the pores.
In my experience as regards it's use in cement based screeding, further regular wetting for 48 hours after initial setting gives a very dense and waterproof surface.
It improves the bonding of plaster to wall surfaces also and reduces tendency of plaster to crack because it gives it some level of flexibility.
I understand checks online would give the benefits but list disadvantage based on their climate about failure of such plasters due to freeze thaw process that involves repeated freezing and thawing cycle of snow over the surface but I still have ones applied in areas in constant contact with water over 2 years that is still good. I can't say with certainty or know it's effects on concrete structural integrity but it has benefits in plasters.
Any water based binder would do. Especially acrylics.

3strikes:
So I found these pics on Segcymoor's thread. This are the kind of things we should be talking about or suggesting to QC1... not building basements in swamps o Who even want a basement in the swamp by the way?

Abeg anyone heard of this waterproofing chemical before? can one use this for house plastering too so as to prevent wet walls ?

Yes.It is possible!

esoorita:


3strikes, my moniker is esoorita and not Esu orita. I'm not related to the devil please. Esoorita which literarilly translates to the beauty of a 3 way junction in Ekiti dialect. However, I got your gist about the new position of Egunmogaji oko Afusa.

@Esoorita, are you an Ekitian?