lordpapi:
Dear auto gurus of nairaland, I need urgent possible explanation and solution to a transmission problem with my 2005 rx330.
I took the car to an auto mechanic to replace the drive shaft( the inner cup and bearing to be precise), driver side shaft oil seal and also to replace all the brake pads, shocks, ball joint, linkages, camber, engine seatings etc. Car drove well after all the repair but suddenly developed fault after about 3 miles distance drive.
the gear will disengage at will and wont accelerate even when it manages to engage. so I had to manage and take the car back to the auto workshop where it was diagnosed and a P0746 code(- Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off) was discovered as the reason the car had the problem.

my question now I;
1- what could possible cause this sudden problem to the gear box?
2- could it be that the shaft replacement could trigger a damage to the gear box( - Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off)?
3- what ways can this issue be resolved?

am not happy about this cos a lot have been spent already. pls, I need your advice.

lordpapi:
Dear auto gurus of nairaland, I need urgent possible explanation and solution to a transmission problem with my 2005 rx330.
I took the car to an auto mechanic to replace the drive shaft( the inner cup and bearing to be precise), driver side shaft oil seal and also to replace all the brake pads, shocks, ball joint, linkages, camber, engine seatings etc. Car drove well after all the repair but suddenly developed fault after about 3 miles distance drive.
the gear will disengage at will and wont accelerate even when it manages to engage. so I had to manage and take the car back to the auto workshop where it was diagnosed and a P0746 code(- Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off) was discovered as the reason the car had the problem.

my question now I;
1- what could possible cause this sudden problem to the gear box?
2- could it be that the shaft replacement could trigger a damage to the gear box( - Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off)?
3- what ways can this issue be resolved?

am not happy about this cos a lot have been spent already. pls, I need your advice.

The service manual of this transmission states that the ring gear of the final drive if disassembled, be heated in atf to 95 degrees C before assembly. The bolts must not be tightened when this ring is hot. That is the only thing I have found since studying these transmissions that mentions temperature management (well, we know the effect of cold atf on hot transmission though). I am sure this part of the transmission was not touched in your case so, what happened?

mayor2013:
You are not far fetched from getting another transmission. Price is 400k. Your kazeem screwed up things. Before that job was done he should have allowed the car's transmission cool down properly. In my own case I would do that job the next day. Dont forget in the process of pulling out the cv joint. A bit of Transmission oil would be lost (might not be the case for all cars). that process is hazardous to toyota and lexus. Am afraid that's the only way out now

lordpapi:
Dear auto gurus of nairaland, I need urgent possible explanation and solution to a transmission problem with my 2005 rx330.
I took the car to an auto mechanic to replace the drive shaft( the inner cup and bearing to be precise), driver side shaft oil seal and also to replace all the brake pads, shocks, ball joint, linkages, camber, engine seatings etc. Car drove well after all the repair but suddenly developed fault after about 3 miles distance drive.
the gear will disengage at will and wont accelerate even when it manages to engage. so I had to manage and take the car back to the auto workshop where it was diagnosed and a P0746 code(- Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off) was discovered as the reason the car had the problem.

my question now I;
1- what could possible cause this sudden problem to the gear box?
2- could it be that the shaft replacement could trigger a damage to the gear box( - Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off)?
3- what ways can this issue be resolved?

am not happy about this cos a lot have been spent already. pls, I need your advice.

lordpapi:
Dear auto gurus of nairaland, I need urgent possible explanation and solution to a transmission problem with my 2005 rx330.
I took the car to an auto mechanic to replace the drive shaft( the inner cup and bearing to be precise), driver side shaft oil seal and also to replace all the brake pads, shocks, ball joint, linkages, camber, engine seatings etc. Car drove well after all the repair but suddenly developed fault after about 3 miles distance drive.
the gear will disengage at will and wont accelerate even when it manages to engage. so I had to manage and take the car back to the auto workshop where it was diagnosed and a P0746 code(- Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off) was discovered as the reason the car had the problem.

my question now I;
1- what could possible cause this sudden problem to the gear box?
2- could it be that the shaft replacement could trigger a damage to the gear box( - Pressure Control Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off)?
3- what ways can this issue be resolved?

am not happy about this cos a lot have been spent already. pls, I need your advice.

GAZZUZZ:


did the transmission cool before the cv joints were removed from the gearbox? We're the cv joint ends that go into
Gearbox clean thoroughly?

MPVGoddess:


Sourced from https://www.nairaland.com/2617697/rebuilding-13-pin-toyota-u151e/3

Kashif, please respond to this guy!

Kashif:


This happens, and I do not have a straight answer regarding its cause. Those solenoids are known to be touchy so, it is usually the solenoids and/or control valves. Dirt ingress is common.

There are series of diagnosis to be carried out by your technician. First, let him check for pressure in the box when forward or reverse is selected. One thing I have learnt is to only test drive these transmissions (after an adapt reset) only when hot.

If you can wait a couple of days, you won't need to replace your transmission.

No point asking if you did initialisation, because it should not cause a no move. Do you have reverse? Start vehicle, allow it to get to operating temperature and try again.

lordpapi:

This is the process/order of repair
1) vehicle arrive in the workshop on Saturday. shocks, camber, pads n ball joint disassembled.
2)skip sunday- then on Monday hub n shaft was disassembled. its was discovered that the inner bearing and cup had no grease,was so rusted and slightly disintegrated due to exposure to mucky water. hence the need for replacement.
3) on Tuesday, the right leg shaft was also removed to inspect in order to inspect n replace the oil seal. Prior to this, the oil seal leaked oil in drops. so, during this process, 30% of the gear oil leaked out.
4) on Wednesday, all dis assembled parts were refitted back with new ones. the right and left shaft also replace after the oil seal was put in place. the transmission oil too was toped. then the car was started n test driven for a while without any issue coming up.
but by the time I drove the car to a distance of about 3mile, the car began to stall n wont respond to throttle and would engage n disengage at will. so that's how I got to this P0746 error code.

This transmission is respected in the industry as a butt- kicker. It decides when to go bunkers, and how it goes about it. It could send you chasing your tail by only removing a solenoid, and putting same back. Same could happen after just drain and refill. That's the way it is. It is bullet proof but when it acts up, is difficult to troubleshoot, mainly because it's PIDs are useless.

I shall print a disclaimer for such repairs.

Kashif:


This transmission is respected in the industry as a butt- kicker. It decides when to go bunkers, and how it goes about it. It could send you chasing your tail by only removing a solenoid, and putting same back. Same could happen after just drain and refill. That's the way it is. It is bullet proof but when it acts up, is difficult to troubleshoot, mainly because it's PIDs are useless.

It is not your fault, nor that of your mechanic. Hot or cold, anything can happen! You need to focus on finding a solution now. Disconnect the solenoid harness and see if you have movement (this will cause it to drive in 3rd). Reverse works as per normal. If you have movement, it makes it easier. If you have a couple of tools, you can access this by taking out the battery and it's support.

You can also use a capable scanner and perform active test on the solenoids. You should hear them click with your ear close to the transmission. No click means stuck. Good luck!

thanks dear. am in port-hacourt. Eleme to be precise.
the oil has just been drained in order to inspect the shift solenoid SL1 on the valve body.


Where are you located?

Kashif:


This transmission is respected in the industry as a butt- kicker. It decides when to go bunkers, and how it goes about it. It could send you chasing your tail by only removing a solenoid, and putting same back. Same could happen after just drain and refill. That's the way it is. It is bullet proof but when it acts up, is difficult to troubleshoot, mainly because it's PIDs are useless.

It is not your fault, nor that of your mechanic. Hot or cold, anything can happen! You need to focus on finding a solution now. Disconnect the solenoid harness and see if you have movement (this will cause it to drive in 3rd). Reverse works as per normal. If you have movement, it makes it easier. If you have a couple of tools, you can access this by taking out the battery and it's support.

You can also use a capable scanner and perform active test on the solenoids. You should hear them click with your ear close to the transmission. No click means stuck. Good luck!

Where are you located?

GAZZUZZ:


I shall print a disclaimer for such repairs.

lordpapi:


Thanks dear. am in port-hacourt. Eleme to be precise.
the oil has just been drained in order to inspect the shift solenoid SL1 on the valve body.

lordpapi:


yes. I took the car there on Saturday, and on Monday it was pulled out. the had more than 30hours to cool down..

royalbarbecue:
my camry XLE gearbox is acting up, when the revving gauge (RPM) moves above 2, the gauge will go wild, the car will not accelerate
but if i stop the car shift to park and back to drive, it will normalize. when i off the engine for like 30mins,
it will happen again then normalizes after shifting to park while the engine is on.

what might be wrong with the gearbox?

Kashif:


This transmission is respected in the industry as a butt- kicker. It decides when to go bunkers, and how it goes about it. It could send you chasing your tail by only removing a solenoid, and putting same back. Same could happen after just drain and refill. That's the way it is. It is bullet proof but when it acts up, is difficult to troubleshoot, mainly because it's PIDs are useless.

It is not your fault, nor that of your mechanic. Hot or cold, anything can happen! You need to focus on finding a solution now. Disconnect the solenoid harness and see if you have movement (this will cause it to drive in 3rd). Reverse works as per normal. If you have movement, it makes it easier. If you have a couple of tools, you can access this by taking out the battery and it's support.

You can also use a capable scanner and perform active test on the solenoids. You should hear them click with your ear close to the transmission. No click means stuck. Good luck!

Where are you located?

mayor2013:
Another question here is when transmission oil was lost. What type of transmission oil was used to refill?

disloman:
Are you sure you were with them through the saturday to know if they didn't start the work till monday morning?Transmission of such brand are delicate to work on.

lordpapi:


Toyota oil T4

Kashif:


That's okay. How did the SL1 check go?

lordpapi:


its all good.
The gear box bottom plate was removed after draining all the oil , the valve body was the removed.
it was hard locating which solenoid was SL1, so all the solenoid was removed n cleaned, tested with battery to determined if its clicking. after cleaning of the valve body n all the solenoids, and was about to be replaced, a gear specialist who came from Lagos that very day to fix another gear box came n inspected the gear oil filter. he found out that it was dented and could not pass oil as expected. so, he queried why it was dented and discovered that the bottom plate too was dented ( I knew it wasn't me cos av never hit anything I cn remember) too. After investigation, it was found that while the engine seatings were being removed and replaced, a jack was placed under the gear bottom-plate by a careless apprentice. the jack was what depressed the bottom-plate which in turn depressed the filter which may have also lead to an SL1 stuck off.
So we bought a new filter too but by the time we coupled everything together, it was already late.
fast-forward today; we put everything in place and toped the oil to gauge and test drove the car. we kept driving this car from time to time till 4pm and nothing negative happened. so, that's how I paid off everyone and left with my car. though the car is still on the watch list in-case the issue resurfaces(I believe it wont).

it was nice listening to all your input on thinks.

lordpapi:


its all good.
The gear box bottom plate was removed after draining all the oil , the valve body was the removed.
it was hard locating which solenoid was SL1, so all the solenoid was removed n cleaned, tested with battery to determined if its clicking. after cleaning of the valve body n all the solenoids, and was about to be replaced, a gear specialist who came from Lagos that very day to fix another gear box came n inspected the gear oil filter. he found out that it was dented and could not pass oil as expected. so, he queried why it was dented and discovered that the bottom plate too was dented ( I knew it wasn't me cos av never hit anything I cn remember) too. After investigation, it was found that while the engine seatings were being removed and replaced, a jack was placed under the gear bottom-plate by a careless apprentice. the jack was what depressed the bottom-plate which in turn depressed the filter which may have also lead to an SL1 stuck off.
So we bought a new filter too but by the time we coupled everything together, it was already late.
fast-forward today; we put everything in place and toped the oil to gauge and test drove the car. we kept driving this car from time to time till 4pm and nothing negative happened. so, that's how I paid off everyone and left with my car. though the car is still on the watch list in-case the issue resurfaces(I believe it wont).

it was nice listening to all your input on thinks.