INTRODUCTION
Asides other factors mentioned about the impacts, and causes of overheating, in my previous article(see the link below),

https://www.nairaland.com/3500161/disastrous-impacts-overheating

Another reason why your car's cooling system can overheat, would be a failing, or failed WATER PUMP.

WHAT DOES THE WATER PUMP DO?
A water, just like the electric submersible water pump you've got in your households, pumps water from under the ground, and straight to the overhead tank, or reservoir.

So, does your car's water pump works. It pumps coolants from the radiator, and channels it through the numerous water channels to the engine block and cylinder heads. At a certain operating temperature, when the engine us extremely hot, the water dissipates the hot fluid back yo the radiator, and so on, where cold coolants from the radiator is channel back to the engine block/cylinder, to continue the cycle.

REASONS WATER PUMPS FAIL
Because of the extreme exposure of the pump to high temperatures, pumps are bound to fail, due to the followings:

1. Use of water as coolants. Using of water as coolants, comes with its own risk.
Agreed, water is a good conductor of heat.

But it would interest you to note that, water, thermally, is excellent dissipating heat away from the engines cooling system to the environment, fails to exhibit such characteristic, when the temperature of an engine gets above 100°C, it looses its thermal property. This lose of thermal property, encourages overheating, corrosion buildup, etc, thereby resulting into reduction in pump efficiency.

Water contains impurities that have the capacity to cause the gradual wear of the pumps impeller blades.

Some people would even go to the extend of using well, or borehole water as coolants in their cars.
Why not invest in a 4L radiator coolant, and use same as your car's coolant.

2. Wrong coolants specifications. Adhere to your manufacturer's specifications for coolants type.

A lot of manufacturers these days, have come up with different degree of specifications for their brands of vehicles.

If the recommended radiator coolants aren't available, USE ANY OTHER COOLANTS WITH SAME SPECIFICATIONS, viz a viz, ADDITIVES.
It's better to use a coolant that closely matches that recommended by your vehicle manufacturer, than using ordinary water.

Some car owners, might not be able to afford OEM based coolants. They would rather buy other brands, as long as it would achieve the same purpose.

3. Mixing different brands/colour of coolants. Different car manufacturers have got different varying degree if additives added in their radiator coolants, to achieve one function or the other.

For instance, coolants are meant to prevent cooling system rust, dissipate excessive heat away from the system, and also to prevent the buildup of corrosion in the system.

Mixing coolants of different colours and specifications are a sure way to easily and quickly degrade a water pump.

All radiator coolants have durations of expiration of the various additives in the coolants. Some are for a year, some two years, and so on.

If there are dissimilar coolant use, it would definitely lead to pump failures, because of the build up of sludge that would be deposited in the system.

4. Bad water pumps. Replacing a failed water pump isn't the problem. But the crux, would be, is the replacement pump, a genuine one. These days, we've got lits of water pumps sold in the market, as OEM standards, but at the ends, they fail, leading to overheating, within some months after installation.

Ensure replacement pumps are bought from genuine vendors.

SIGNS YOUR PUMP IS FAILING
Here are some of the signs your car's pump is failing.

1. Grinding noise. This kind of noise, usually comes from your car's water pump's pulley bearings, or the water pump shaft.

The noise is synonymous to an engine components, or a bearing(Boris) that requires lubrication.

This noise, depending on the state of failure of the pump, the grinding noise increases in I tensity, as the engine is started early in the morning, or while its being driven.

This grinding noise occurs when the rubber seals inside of the water pump's shaft that prevents water from delubricating the bearing, fails(is broken, or cracked), as a result if exposures to high temperatures.

Replace the water pump immediately when you notice this noise.

2. Leaks around the water pump casing. You'd suddenly notice that when the car is parked, the radiator coolant, has gone down.

You keep on topping the radiator coolant regularly.

Sometimes you may notice a yellowish grain of powder around the tiny hole(weep hole) on the pump housing.

You'll observe coolants always dropping at the front and directly under the pump location.
Always put an eye on the radiator reservoir, if your car has no provision for radiator cap.

3. Overheating engine. When you notice the engine's temperature continues to rise, despite checking the integrity of the radiator hoses, thermostat, cylinder gaskets, etc, it's time to ha e a look at your water pump.

Overheating would always happen with a failed water pump, because the impeller blades on the pump, won't be able to deliver the needed volume of coolants required to relieve the engine of thermal load(stress).


¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶

∆ Replace radiator coolants, if its more than two years in the car's cooling system.
Expired coolants are always a huge threat to the operational efficiency of water pumps.
When coolants aren't replaced, additives are degraded, and form sludge, and corrosion, that have being know to be enemies of water pump, and aluminum surfaces.

∆ Replace the coolants in a used car, if you just bought it.
A ten year old car without its coolants replaced, is a one using water as a coolant in one's car.

∆ Don't mix different types of coolants together(red, and green, etc).
Adhere to a single type.
Drain all the water from the engine's cooling system, before introducing a fresh one.

This would limit diluting the coolants with water.

¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶




CASE STUDY

Camry 2007;
Capacity of engine: 2.4L, 4Cylinder
Engine type: 2AZ-FE


CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINT

*Engine makes a grinding noise, immediately the engine is started, when it is cold

*Water from the coolant reservoir keeps going down, and I keep topping it.


OUR TROUBLESHOOTING

*Got to the customer's location, in order to simulate the customer's complaints.
Started the engine, a terrible grinding noise surfaces.

*Discovered coolant leaks around the front and sides directly below the pump location.

*Topped the reservoir with water, and discovered immediate water was leaking out from beneath the pump.

*Auto tensioner bearing makes noise(grinding noise).
That bearing was responsible for the initial noise, when the car was started.

THE FIX

*Drained the existing coolants, and captured it in a container.

*Replaced the pump with a new one, after removing the old one.

*Inspected the water pump housing seal to make sure its still intact.
Do not reuse an old seal.
All new pumps come with new rubber seals.
Reusing old seals would cause coolant leaks and overheating. Something, you'd want to avoid.
Ensured genuine silicone gum was used.

*Allowed silicone gum to dry perfectly before filling the radiator system with coolants. This would give the water pump a perfect sealing.

*Started the engine, and allowed to run for 15min.
Checked for leaks, without any found.

*Replaced only the auto tensioner bearing, instead of buying a complete auto tensioner assembly.
That saved the customer some bulks though.



CONCLUSION
Detecting a failing(failed) pump, should be quiet easy.
Replacing your car's radiator coolants, is a panacea for prolonging the lifespan of the car's water pump unit.
It pays to use new OEM water pump, than using a used one.






Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)

ERM, the last time I checked, Camry has 2.4l i4 2AZ-FE.
Also, your Claim that Engine goes as hot as 2000°C.
Na Ceramic oven or boiler room for refinery?
Last time I checked the melting point of aluminium from which a 2AZ-FE is made from is 660.3°C, now you do the math.

TRYGO:
INTRODUCTION



REASONS WATER PUMPS FAIL
Because of the extreme exposure of the pump to high temperatures, pumps are bound to fail, due to the followings:

1. Use of water as coolants. Using of water as coolants, comes with its own risk.
Agreed, water is a good conductor of heat.

But it would interest you to note that, water, thermally, is excellent dissipating heat away from the engines cooling system to the environment, fails to exhibit such characteristic, when the temperature of an engine gets to close to 2000°C. At that temperature, it looses its thermal property. This lose of thermal property, encourages overheating, corrosion buildup, etc, thereby resulting into reduction in pump efficiency.



.perational efficiency of water pumps.
When coolants aren't replaced, additives are degraded, and form sludge, and corrosion, that have being know to be enemies of water pump, and aluminum surfaces.





CASE STUDY

Camry 2007;
Capacity of engine: 2.7L, 4Cylinder
Engine type: 2AZ-FE


CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINT

*Engine makes a grinding noise, immediately the engine is started, when it is cold

*Water from the coolant reservoir keeps going down, and I keep topping it.


OUR TROUBLESHOOTING

*Got to the customer's location, in order to simulate the customer's complaints.
Started the engine, a terrible grinding noise surfaces.

*Discovered coolant leaks around the front and sides directly below the pump location.

*Topped the reservoir with water, and discovered immediate water was leaking out from beneath the pump.

*Auto tensioner bearing makes noise(grinding noise).
That bearing was responsible for the initial noise, when the car was started.

THE FIX

*Drained the existing coolants, and captured it in a container.

*Replaced the pump with a new one, after removing the old one.

*Inspected the water pump housing seal to make sure its still intact.
Do not reuse an old seal.
All new pumps come with new rubber seals.
Reusing old seals would cause coolant leaks and overheating. Something, you'd want to avoid.
Ensured genuine silicone gum was used.

*Allowed silicone gum to dry perfectly before filling the radiator system with coolants. This would give the water pump a perfect sealing.

*Started the engine, and allowed to run for 15min.
Checked for leaks, without any found.

*Replaced only the auto tensioner bearing, instead of buying a complete auto tensioner assembly.
That saved the customer some bulks though.



CONCLUSION
Detecting a failing(failed) pump, should be quiet easy.
Replacing your car's radiator coolants, is a panacea for prolonging the lifespan of the car's water pump unit.
It pays to use new OEM water pump, than using a used one.






Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)

@kingreign and Gazzuzz. Sorry! As far as you've gotten the message, of what the article depicts, no problem.
Corrections would be effected.
Thanks for drawing my attention to it.

@Gazzuzz. You de funny o! So all articles I don post get technical errors? Haba mallam!

GAZZUZZ:


You want me to list all of them and their errors? I can do that on a sunday

You wan finish him kazeem career

@Gazzuzz and kingreign. Well, not to worry. I'm in the "theatre room" right now, preparing an article.
If there's time, we'd talk about that.
In the meantime, an article is the making right now.

I like your stuff guys. I think this shows you aren't just scanning through it, but studying what's written.

Later na.
But I'd really appreciate if "technical errors" could be pointed out in ALL my articles.
That would be a better avenue for fine tuning that "engine".

TRYGO:
@Gazzuzz and kingreign. Well, not to worry. I'm in the "theatre room" right now, preparing an article.
If there's time, we'd talk about that.
In the meantime, an article is the making right now.

I like your stuff guys. I think this shows you aren't just scanning through it, but studying what's written.

Later na.
But I'd really appreciate if "technical errors" could be pointed out in ALL my articles.
That would be a better avenue for fine tuning that "engine".

Your articles are usually too long .Learn to summarise and straight to point.
That long tory can be in your blog

please gurus in the house. my Honda EOD is currently overheating. changed gasket and water pump once but the things won't stop overheating. now my gasket is burnt again. my second mechanic is recommending changing the radiator (single plug or so) saying its not good for Nigeria weather. please advice me on what steps to take.

@honmusa. Thanks so very much for the feedback. Would try effecting that suggestion.

@gabito4luv. Can you provide some historical fact about that problem? How it all started, etc?
That would help in my response to you.

A lot of factors can cause overheating, ranging from vacuum leaks, misfires, a failing or failed engine cooling system(water pump, radiator system, thermostat stuck closed, bad radiator fan, etc)

***But in the meantime, "replaced head gaskets, and H2O pump, and still same issue"? Suggests the remote and immediate cause of the problem hasn't being identified yet.***

***" Now gasket is burnt again"?. Suggests extreme overheating occurring on that engine.***

I would like to share this link with you about some of the causes of overheating I have written,

https://www.nairaland.com/modifypost?redirect=%2F3500161%2Fdisastrous-impacts-overheating%2351775939&post=51775939

in addition to the following points:

***At what engine condition does this overheating occur? idling, or while driving?
The T°C gauge exceeds the 1/2mark, and closes on to the RED line?(at least that's isn't President Obama's Syria's redline). Sorry for being political here.

***Have the car scanned for codes. Is there any check engine light displaying on the dashboard?

***Check if the engine fan is specifically working. In some cases I have experienced, the fan(s) might be functional, but if the revolutions of the engine fan is below specifications, it won't be able to blow in cool air from the atmosphere, and evacuate even the hot one from the engine.

Also check the harnesses to the fans, to ensure they're all connected rightly(if fans not working).

***What sort of gasket, do you have installed in there? Cellulose type, or metal make?

*** Installation errors could be another factor. Cylinder heads not properly smoothened(machined), would cause improper sealing between the interfaces of the cylinder head, and engine block. This would cause compression issues, and loss of power.

∆∆∆If the water outer casing seals are leaking, as a result if improper application of silicon sealant, coolants gets wasted and overheating still persists.∆∆∆

***Wrapped cylinder head. Bulk of the heat transfer from the engine occurs at the cylinder head if the engine. Because of the tremendous heat such heads undergo, and the various hotspots at the corners of such cylinders, aluminum heads are bound to exhibit some form of hairline cracks, that if not checked, would engine misfires, and overheating.

∆∆∆The next time your mechanic removes the head again, request he inspects the cylinder heads for hairline cracks.
***If the timing of the engine is over advanced, engine works much more, and overheats.

***If any of the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps were interchanged as seen in this case study, your car would continue having such issues, until the bearing caps are corrected.

***Check for clogged or dirty radiator. If before now, the radiator hadn't overheated as a result of a single celled radiator system, then replacing it may not solve the problem. Check if the radiator is clogged. Flush, or replace it with a much higher capacity one.


Hope this helps you tackle this problem.

Any concerns you've got, relay back to the house please.


Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Twitter: @dw_nig
08066643532(WhatsApp/calls)

gabito4luv:
please gurus in the house. my Honda EOD is currently overheating. changed gasket and water pump once but the things won't stop overheating. now my gasket is burnt again. my second mechanic is recommending changing the radiator (single plug or so) saying its not good for Nigeria weather. please advice me on what steps to take.

You meant 'double or single cell'

@lonelydora. Double, if after ascertaining that the single celled radiator didn't work.

TRYGO:
@gabito4luv. Can you provide some historical fact about that problem? How it all started, etc?
That would help in my response to you.

A lot of factors can cause overheating, ranging from vacuum leaks, misfires, a failing or failed engine cooling system(water pump, radiator system, thermostat stuck closed, bad radiator fan, etc)

***But in the meantime, "replaced head gaskets, and H2O pump, and still same issue"? Suggests the remote and immediate cause of the problem hasn't being identified yet.***

***" Now gasket is burnt again"?. Suggests extreme overheating occurring on that engine.***

I would like to share this link with you about some of the causes of overheating I have written,

https://www.nairaland.com/modifypost?redirect=%2F3500161%2Fdisastrous-impacts-overheating%2351775939&post=51775939

in addition to the following points:

***At what engine condition does this overheating occur? idling, or while driving?
The T°C gauge exceeds the 1/2mark, and closes on to the RED line?(at least that's isn't President Obama's Syria's redline). Sorry for being political here.

***Have the car scanned for codes. Is there any check engine light displaying on the dashboard?

***Check if the engine fan is specifically working. In some cases I have experienced, the fan(s) might be functional, but if the revolutions of the engine fan is below specifications, it won't be able to blow in cool air from the atmosphere, and evacuate even the hot one from the engine.

Also check the harnesses to the fans, to ensure they're all connected rightly(if fans not working).

***What sort of gasket, do you have installed in there? Cellulose type, or metal make?

*** Installation errors could be another factor. Cylinder heads not properly smoothened(machined), would cause improper sealing between the interfaces of the cylinder head, and engine block. This would cause compression issues, and loss of power.

∆∆∆If the water outer casing seals are leaking, as a result if improper application of silicon sealant, coolants gets wasted and overheating still persists.∆∆∆

***Wrapped cylinder head. Bulk of the heat transfer from the engine occurs at the cylinder head if the engine. Because of the tremendous heat such heads undergo, and the various hotspots at the corners of such cylinders, aluminum heads are bound to exhibit some form of hairline cracks, that if not checked, would engine misfires, and overheating.

∆∆∆The next time your mechanic removes the head again, request he inspects the cylinder heads for hairline cracks.
***If the timing of the engine is over advanced, engine works much more, and overheats.

***If any of the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps were interchanged as seen in this case study, your car would continue having such issues, until the bearing caps are corrected.

***Check for clogged or dirty radiator. If before now, the radiator hadn't overheated as a result of a single celled radiator system, then replacing it may not solve the problem. Check if the radiator is clogged. Flush, or replace it with a much higher capacity one.


Hope this helps you tackle this problem.

Any concerns you've got, relay back to the house please.


Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Twitter: @dw_nig
08066643532(WhatsApp/calls)

So you must always write Newspaper column abi na one complete thesis to prove a point or assist someone?
Na wa o. So even Honmusa was right after all. Eleyi gidi gaan.

Ooga o!

gabito4luv:
please gurus in the house. my Honda EOD is currently overheating. changed gasket and water pump once but the things won't stop overheating. now my gasket is burnt again. my second mechanic is recommending changing the radiator (single plug or so) saying its not good for Nigeria weather. please advice me on what steps to take.

If you are in Lagos ,u can bring to my workshop on Monday ,I have resolved alot of similar issue
I prefer physical contact with the issue I am resolving ,I am not talented to be writing long tory like trygo

Thanks guys. The car broke down on my way to Benin from Lagos. The overheating occurred immediately I got to Ore. The mechanic has identified cracks on the top cylinder which may be changed.

Also one of the radiator fans stopped working on my way but has been fixed by a roadside electrician

@kingreign. Well, I don't see anything wrong with writing a "column". This is just a small write. Since the nairalander concerned hasn't complained, no wahala.
I think the person concerned was able to dig through and decipher what I meant.
The write, or response wasn't just meant for him alone, but for other persons that might be interested in being educated, as regards overheating, and the likes.

I LIKE BEING MORE DETAILED, IN MY WRITE-UPS.
I DON'T JUST LIST POINTS OUT, BUT PREFER TO EXPLAIN MUCH MORE!
THAT'S JUST WHO " TRYGO" IS.

@gabito4luv. Thank God, for the quick fix. From your feedback, I think most of what we've written, was of help to you.
Keep stuffs like these coming.


@honmusa. Nawao for you o! This is the modus operandi of my job:

*get to the field, work on some cars.

*ask the customers exactly what the problems are

*get a troubleshooting tree process

*resolved issues are analyzed to determine cause of fault, and solutions proffered.

*gather such problems and solutions, then write on them on various platforms online.

NB: All what I write are a combination of years of experience fixing cars PERSONALLY, and employing online resources as well to buttress some of the posts I have on this platform.

I DON'T JUST WRITE, BUT I ACT THE WRITE-UPS.

ANY POSTS I HAVE ON THIS PLATFORM, I HAVE EXPERIENCED THEM ALL.


Appreciate you guys!

@kingreign. Well, I don't see anything wrong with writing a "column". This is just a small write. Since the nairalander concerned hasn't complained, no wahala.
I think the person concerned was able to dig through and decipher what I meant.
The write, or response wasn't just meant for him alone, but for other persons that might be interested in being educated, as regards overheating, and the likes.

I LIKE BEING MORE DETAILED IN MY WRITE-UPS.
I DON'T JUST LIST POINTS OUT, BUT PREFER TO EXPLAIN MUCH MORE!
THAT'S JUST WHO " TRYGO" IS.


@gabito4luv. Thank God, for the quick fix. From your feedback, I think most of what we've written, was of help to you.
Keep stuffs like these coming.


@honmusa. Nawao for you o! This is the modus operandi of my job:

*get to the field, work on some cars.

*ask the customers exactly what the problems are

*get a troubleshooting tree process

*resolved issues are analyzed to determine cause of fault, and solutions proffered.

*gather such problems and solutions, then write on them on various platforms online.

NB: All what I write are a combination of years of experience fixing cars PERSONALLY, and employing online resources as well to buttress some of the posts I have on this platform.

I DON'T JUST WRITE, BUT I ACT THE WRITE-UPS.

ANY POSTS I HAVE ON THIS PLATFORM, I HAVE EXPERIENCED THEM ALL.


Appreciate you guys!