See attached comment

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olaboy1:
Many say a CAT can go bad without a DTC, that's why you have many internet threads of how do I know my CAT is bad

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/45097-can-a-catalytic-converter-clog-up-without-codes

True. DTCs may not be set all the time!

olaboy1:

Good morning AutoElectNG and thanks for your help regards the BOT ban.

Welcome

From my car FSM a kick starter is not part of the failing components for DTC P0340
The OBD self test not performed was written at the end of the report and P0340/sensor DTC's where at the top, so that means the OBD2 test was able to pick DTC P0340. So OBD2 monitor for P0340 did run and all this was before the mechanic started working on it.

We would be more certain this was case, if the status of all the monitors was provided. Sadly the FSM is silent on its Detection logic for this DTC. For more information on Toyota Drive Cycles, see http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/support/Knowledgebase/Article/View/42/7/toyotalexus-obd-ii-drive-cycles

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MODIFIED BELOW
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The FSM does indeed provide its detection logic for this DTC. Question is, when you study the information provided by the 133rd post on this thread, can you really say that the monitor tests for the one trip and two trip detection logic was actually run by the PCM/ECU? That is a must to come to the above conclusion without fear of contradiction.

Here is the monitor enabling criteria:


1. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM during cranking - It uses a two trip detection logic to determine this

2. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM at engine speed of 600 RPM or more. It uses a one trip detection logic to determine this

Toyota FSM on DTC P0340 confirms everything I wrote about timing chain been one of the failing components associated with CMP sensor.
Wish I had my own garage, I would have opened that cover to do a visual inspection of my timing chain. Timing chain was the first thing I told the mechanics about to check before oxygen sensors/AF sensors, because that's like the liver of the engine and can cause misfire and total engine failure on motion. I need to look some more DIY YouTube videos on timing chain and see if I can get dirty assuming my mechanic insist on me buying sensors.

Common signs of a faulty timing chain include engine misfires, metal shavings found in the oil, and rattling sounds from the engine while idling. Remember I wrote about some rattling noise in front of the engine when idling.

So you agree with us that P0340 was a good place to start! And that you hints about the timing chain were not so far off the mark.

fuel tank cover was one of the failing components I read about AF sensor codes, and when I tried to put fuel in the car the fuel pressure whilst I opened the tank cover was so much that it felt like it was going to pop the cap out of my hand, so I am going to first go ahead and change the fuel cap. See the video below


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX62e4qLL9Y

I think to eliminate any hidden problems, let's start with FSM fix for P0340, it's not a big deal. I am going to do the electrical check of the CMP sensor and wire harness myself and then ask the mechanic to check timing chain and camshaft. Once I am satisfied with that we move on to next step.

The mechanic explained that if it was a vacuum leak, after clearing the codes they should go away and maybe come back after 2-3trips that you explained in your latest post, and that was how he knew it was a permanent component failure. Also note when I start the car and it's cold I see white exhaust fumes from the tail of the exhaust that looks like NOx.

Sure you agree that nothing beats factory service data in diagnosis.

Anything else is trial and error.

Bolded is noted!

This video below also buttress my inner suspicion about the timing chain. Although I haven't diagnosed a timing chain problem conclusively for my car, but the first time I got the inspection paper about those DTC's, I said to myself maybe the timing chain needs adjustments or replacement and probably some pulley problems also. Since I'm not sure if the car has been given full service according to manufacturer's specification and I read a comment that poor servicing, wrong oil or spark plugs will make the VVT actuator to get clogged with junk and locks in place, hence why I think the P0340 like you said is the most critical point of call.

I will look into the P0340, but I wanted to ask what you think about the white smoke from the exhaust, isn't that a give away of a failing CAT and O2 sensors. I understand we need to start from P0340 and just wanted a second and third opinion. Changing a CAT or sensors without fixing a timing problem is just plain ignorance.
http://www.bobsmuffler.com/reasons_for_a_converter_failure.htm

My FSM did not say anything about voltage measurements for the CMP sensor and wire harness coming from the ECU, the check areas listed are only resistance and continuity, and how do I check for resistance at hot temperature of 50 degrees Celsius - 100 degrees Celsius


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLU3nQNRaO4

olaboy1:
This video below also buttress my inner suspicion about the timing chain. Although I haven't diagnosed a timing chain problem conclusively for my car, but the first time I got the inspection paper about those DTC's, I said to myself maybe the timing chain needs adjustments or replacement and probably some pulley problems also. Since I'm not sure if the car has been given full service according to manufacturer's specification and I read a comment that poor servicing, wrong oil or spark plugs will make the VVT actuator to get clogged with junk and locks in place, hence why I think the P0340 like you said is the most critical point of call.

Noted!

I will look into the P0340, but I wanted to ask what you think about the white smoke from the exhaust, isn't that a give away of a failing CAT and O2 sensors. I understand we need to start from P0340 and just wanted a second and third opinion. Changing a CAT or sensors without fixing a timing problem is just plain ignorance.
http://www.bobsmuffler.com/reasons_for_a_converter_failure.htm

Is it thick white smoke? If yes, then, you might have an engine problem on your hands. By engine problem is meant something along the lines of:
1.A bad cylinder head
2.A bad head gasket
3.A cracked engine block
with the root cause being an overheated engine
You might like to take a look at this link http://procarmechanics.com/types-of-smoke-from-your-car-tailpipe-what-it-indicates/

My FSM did not say anything about voltage measurements for the CMP sensor and wire harness coming from the ECU, the check areas listed are only resistance and continuity, and how do I check for resistance at hot temperature of 50 degrees Celsius - 100 degrees Celsius


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLU3nQNRaO4

Actually it did.

We took a second look at the FSM.

One of the most important tools in diagnosing a modern vehicle is a Digital Multimeter. You can tell the condition of a circuit with a resistance test or a voltage drop test. You have been provided resistance tests that can tell if the wiring is intact or it has been compromised, whether the compromise is a lack of signals from the PCM/ECU getting to the sensor (open) or whether the problem is that the signals have gone where they were not intended to go (short).

Let us work you through the details provided by the FSM once more.

Please note, according to m_05_0129, how does the PCM know that it should set a P0340 code?

When it notices either of two things:

1. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM during cranking - It uses a two trip detection logic to determine this

2. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM at engine speed of 600 RPM or more. It uses a one trip detection logic to determine this

It also goes ahead to say that the trouble areas to consider (in that order) are:

1. Open or short in camshaft position sensor circuit - this is an electrical test. And you need to calculate the resistance to determine this

2. Camshaft Position Sensor - this is an electrical test. And you need to compare the resistance of the sensor in your car with the resistance as it should be per factory specifications

It is only and only if the two trouble areas above do not resolve the problem that you should go to the third

3. Camshaft timing pulley - this is a mechanical test

4. Jumped tooth of timing chain - this is a mechanical test

5. ECM replacement - this is an electrical issue.

Please resolve P0340 using the above decision tree and in consultation with the steps provided in m_05_0129.

Do not forget the hint: DTC P0340 indicates a malfunction related to the CMP sensor + circuit (the wire harness between the ECM and CMP sensor, and the CMP sensor itself)

The first test tells the condition of the sensor electrically

The second test tells the condition of the wiring between the sensor wiring harness and the PCM/ECU. It does not have to be a voltage test before it can tell the condition of the wiring.

The third and forth tests are mechanical

Hi guys,

please where can we purchase the scanner?

The white smoke is very little and disappears when the engine is warmed up. If I have an engine problem I will know when I rev the engine. I have reved the engine at around 5000 RPM and it sounded very perfect. The car is now starting at much less time but if you tap on the throttle it idles poorly for 3-5 seconds (RPM fluctuates), and then it goes back to normal. I've forgotten exactly what fault is simulated in a video I watched where the engine RPM fluctuated by tapping of the throttle sharply.

I tried to electrically check the CMP sensor today but it was difficult to get to without taking some vehicle parts out, and my mechanic and I I've agreed to start with timing chain on Monday because I am traveling and will be back on Sunday evening.

Once we get into timing chain job, I will do a comprehensive full service of the engine by following the FASTEC module
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing ignition crankshaft and camshaft, exhaust and compression.
I shall also ask him to clean the throttle body, check IAC, check EGR valve and PCV and replace if necessary, check the intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold and head gasket. What other things do I need to consider for a full service, engine oil and filter have been changed.
There are two radiator fans in the car, I guess one is for the AC and the other for radiator cooling, after keeping the car running for thirty minutes both fans never worked, is this something to be worried about or they will only work when on motion, because this car does not have a dashboard display for engine temperature.

dljbd1:
Hi guys,

please where can we purchase the scanner?

Generate a shopping list of features based on the recommendations on this thread.

Then we can take it from there...

olaboy1:
The white smoke is very little and disappears when the engine is warmed up. If I have an engine problem I will know when I rev the engine. I have reved the engine at around 5000 RPM and it sounded very perfect.

OK

The car is now starting at much less time but if you tap on the throttle it idles poorly for 3-5 seconds (RPM fluctuates), and then it goes back to normal. I've forgotten exactly what fault is simulated in a video I watched where the engine RPM fluctuated by tapping of the throttle sharply.

Noted. Have you thought about the fact that there could be a correlation between the the poor idling and the CMP sensor?

I tried to electrically check the CMP sensor today but it was difficult to get to without taking some vehicle parts out, and my mechanic and I I've agreed to start with timing chain on Monday because I am traveling and will be back on Sunday evening.

Good to know!

Once we get into timing chain job, I will do a comprehensive full service of the engine by following the FASTEC module
Fuel, Air, Spark, Timing ignition crankshaft and camshaft, exhaust and compression.
I shall also ask him to clean the throttle body, check IAC, check EGR valve and PCV and replace if necessary, check the intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold and head gasket.

Noted.

What other things do I need to consider for a full service, engine oil and filter have been changed.

have you checked the FSM? It usually contains such information specific to the ride in question?

There are two radiator fans in the car, I guess one is for the AC and the other for radiator cooling, after keeping the car running for thirty minutes both fans never worked, is this something to be worried about or they will only work when on motion, because this car does not have a dashboard display for engine temperature.

Once again you need a scan tool, so you can monitor what happens when the temperature hits 185 degrees up to 220/250 degrees?
What happens if you turn on the AC? Do both fans engage then?
Don't calculate based on time, calculate based on engine coolant temperature as reported by the scan tool!
Can we see a picture of this dasboard that does not have a temperature display?

AutoElectNG:

Noted!


Is it thick white smoke? If yes, then, you might have an engine problem on your hands. By engine problem is meant something along the lines of:
1.A bad cylinder head
2.A bad head gasket
3.A cracked engine block
with the root cause being an overheated engine
You might like to take a look at this link http://procarmechanics.com/types-of-smoke-from-your-car-tailpipe-what-it-indicates/



Actually it did.

We took a second look at the FSM.

One of the most important tools in diagnosing a modern vehicle is a Digital Multimeter. You can tell the condition of a circuit with a resistance test or a voltage drop test. You have been provided resistance tests that can tell if the wiring is intact or it has been compromised, whether the compromise is a lack of signals from the PCM/ECU getting to the sensor (open) or whether the problem is that the signals have gone where they were not intended to go (short).

Let us work you through the details provided by the FSM once more.

Please note, according to m_05_0129, how does the PCM know that it should set a P0340 code?

When it notices either of two things:

1. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM during cranking - It uses a two trip detection logic to determine this

2. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM at engine speed of 600 RPM or more. It uses a one trip detection logic to determine this

It also goes ahead to say that the trouble areas to consider (in that order) are:

1. Open or short in camshaft position sensor circuit - this is an electrical test. And you need to calculate the resistance to determine this

2. Camshaft Position Sensor - this is an electrical test. And you need to compare the resistance of the sensor in your car with the resistance as it should be per factory specifications

It is only and only if the two trouble areas above do not resolve the problem that you should go to the third

3. Camshaft timing pulley - this is a mechanical test

4. Jumped tooth of timing chain - this is a mechanical test

5. ECM replacement - this is an electrical issue.

Please resolve P0340 using the above decision tree and in consultation with the steps provided in m_05_0129.

Do not forget the hint: DTC P0340 indicates a malfunction related to the CMP sensor + circuit (the wire harness between the ECM and CMP sensor, and the CMP sensor itself)

The first test tells the condition of the sensor electrically

The second test tells the condition of the wiring between the sensor wiring harness and the PCM/ECU. It does not have to be a voltage test before it can tell the condition of the wiring.

The third and forth tests are mechanical

I so much like how you analyze things for a layman to understand. So to be on the same page with you, I don't have to tear open the timing chain to know it's in a good condition as that's the job of the CMP sensor?
If decision tree 1 and 2 are met and everything is fine electrically from sensor to wire harness with regards to FSM, then is it safe to say the timing chain is conclusively in a good condition?

olaboy1:


I so much like how you analyze things for a layman to understand. So to be on the same page with you, I don't have to tear open the timing chain to know it's in a good condition as that's the job of the CMP sensor?
If decision tree 1 and 2 are met and everything is fine electrically from sensor to wire harness with regards to FSM, then is it safe to say the timing chain is conclusively in a good condition?

Thanks for the compliments.

We are happy for you that you have come to the realization that there is no need to tear open the engine cover to access the timing chain at this time.

We were sad for you, but there was little we could do for you, it is afterall your car!

If the wiring checks out between the sensor and the PCM/ECU,
THEN
the next thing to do is to check if the sensor checks out,
IF
the sensor does not check out,
THEN
replace the sensor with the factory recommended part no from a reputable parts supplier!

We do not recommend aftermarket chinese CMP sensors since they are of unreliable quality and can fail without warning!

ONLY IF
after replacing the sensor and things are still not in ok,
IN THAT
after doing the one trip detection logic
AND
the two trip detection logic the code comes back,
THEN AND ONLY THEN
will you need to tear down the engine to work on the timing chain.

AutoElectNG:
Please check the document labeled "m_05_0016.pdf"!

Also ask and answer the following questions from the specification sheet of the OBD II Scan Tool you intend to purchase?

Does the OBD II Scan Tool understand the ISO 9141-2/ISO 14230 communication protocol? That is what your car uses!

Does the DLC terminal arrangement of the interface cable comply with the ISO 15031-03/IS0 9141-2/ISO 14230 format? That is what your car uses!



Is the OBD II Scan tool tool a basic tool or a high end tool? And I am comfortable with its outputs? Will it give me the level of data I need for the quality of repairs that I intend to provide?

It's Amazon listing said support for European Vehicles from 2004 forward.

Generate a shopping list of features you want from an OBD II scan tool, then determine which one to buy from studying the tool that meets all the features you consider an absolute must!

Weldone sir, i have a 2007 lexus rx350 , i scanned it with an obd2 scanner, find below the following codes i got and pls let me know the solution to the problem.

P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation
P0019- same as P0016
P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance
P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over retarded
P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit
P0354- ignition coil "" primary/secondary circuit
P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit
P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow
P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)

please help and thanks

tunde783:


Weldone sir, i have a 2007 lexus rx350 , i scanned it with an obd2 scanner, find below the following codes i got and pls let me know the solution to the problem.

P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation
P0019- same as P0016
P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance
P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over retarded
P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit
P0354- ignition coil "" primary/secondary circuit
P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit
P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow
P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)

please help and thanks

Please provide comprehensive information so we can analyze the subject objectively instead of subjectively.



Please provide the following:

Did you buy this vehicle brand new or is it new to you?

What is it's mileage?

Do you know its full service history? Tell us everything you know. What went wrong? How did it go wrong?

How long have you had this/these problem(s)?

Was any repair made before you had this problem?

Have you attempted any repairs so far? If yes, what exactly has been done to the vehicle?

What is the current status of the MIL
1. Do you have no driveability complaint along with the MIL? (Do you have any drivability issues?)
2. Do you have driveability complaint(s) along with the MIL? If yes, kindly explain. (Or is the MIL on but no drivability issues/complaints? )

Have you ever erased the DTC(s)? Did it/they come back after that?


Freeze Frame Data required includes:
Fuel System Status (whether Open Loop or Closed Loop)
Calculated Load in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Engine Speed in RPM
Vehicle Speed in MPH or km/h
Engine Coolant Temperature in degrees
If a single-cylinder misfire is detected, indicate cylinder(s)

Current Parameter Display Information required includes:


Fuel System Status (whether Open Loop or Closed Loop)
Calculated Load in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 in Percentage
Engine Speed in RPM
Vehicle Speed in MPH or km/h
Engine Coolant Temperature in degrees

Once we have your feedback, we will roll her into the service bay!

tunde783:


Weldone sir, i have a 2007 lexus rx350 , i scanned it with an obd2 scanner, find below the following codes i got and pls let me know the solution to the problem.

P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation
P0019- same as P0016
P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance
P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over retarded
P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit
P0354- ignition coil "" primary/secondary circuit
P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit
P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow
P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)

please help and thanks

Did you see our response above?

In what ways is OBD II a vast improvement over OBD I? aka Why might your mechanic refuse to repair pre-OBD II VEHICLES?

Content loading ....

This vehicle's owner stopped by for an expert opinion on the OBD II codes he retrieved from his vehicle's PCM/ECU. Let's take a lot at the vehicle before taking a look at the codes thrown

2007 Lexus RX350 Edmund's review

The Lexus RX series has long been the company's best-selling vehicle. Since its debut in '99 as the RX 300, this midsize luxury crossover SUV has won over buyers with its easy-to-drive nature, plush cabin, virtually silent and vibration-free powertrain and very high build quality. And thanks to above-average reliability and quality dealer service, the RX has provided its owners with about as stress-free an experience as one could hope for. A full redesign in 2004 brought with it a bigger 3.3-liter V6 (which provided impetus for the RX 300-to-RX 330 name change) and a radically different body design housing an even roomier and more luxurious cabin than before.

For the 2007 Lexus RX 350, as the name implies, there is a larger, more powerful engine fitted to this midsize SUV. Displacing 3.5 liters and cranking out 270 horsepower and 251 pound-feet of torque, the new engine's output represents increases over last year's RX 330 of 47 hp and 13 lb-ft, respectively. Other than the new engine and additional sound insulation to make the quiet cabin even more hushed, the RX continues as before. This means that the RX's elevated seating position, forgiving ride and smooth drivetrain are still there, only with added performance.

While the RX has always been a comfy and peppy SUV, the latest version considerably ups the ante in terms of both luxury and performance. The 2007 Lexus RX 350 serves as an excellent example of what a luxury crossover utility should be. With its spacious cabin, many useful features and top-notch build quality, the RX remains a strong choice in this very competitive market segment.

Source: https://www.edmunds.com/lexus/rx-350/2007/review/

For obtain more angles to the story, also check out https://www.kbb.com/lexus/rx/2007/

2007 lexus rx350 P0016- crankshaft position- camshaft position correlation ...

P0016 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
16 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/ which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:CRANKSHAFT POSITION -CAMSHAFT POSITION POSITION CORRECTION (BANK 1 SENSOR A)

In other words, Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0019- same as P0016 …

P0019 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
19 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/ which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:CRANKSHAFT POSITION -CAMSHAFT POSITION POSITION CORRECTION (BANK 2 SENSOR B)

In other words, Crankshaft/Camshaft Timing Misalignment

OBD2 Code P0016 Lexus definition according to http://www.carobdcodes.com:

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and Camshaft position sensor (CMP) work in harmony to control the spark/fuel delivery and timing. They both consist of a reluctor, or tone, ring which passes over a magnetic sensor, which generates a voltage, indicating position. The crankshaft sensor is part of the primary ignition system and functions as the “trigger”. It detects the position of the crankshaft relays that information on to the PCM or the ignition module (depending on the vehicle) to control spark timing. The Camshaft position sensor detects the position of the camshafts and relays the information to the PCM. The PCM uses the CMP signal to identify the beginning of the injector sequence. What ties these two shafts and their sensors together is the timing belt or chain. The cam and crank should be precisely timed together. If the PCM detects that the Crank and Cam signals are out of time by a specific number of degrees, this P0016 Lexus code will set.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0021- "A" camshaft position- Timing over- Advanced or system performance …

P0021 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
21 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:“A” Camshaft Position – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)

In other words, Camshaft Position "B" - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

OBD2 Code P0021 Lexus definition by http://www.carobdcodes.com/

A code P0021 Lexus definition:the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car’s PCM (powertrain control module, also called an ECM). That consists of a few different components but the P0021 Lexus DTC specifically definition:the camshaft (cam) timing. In this case, if the cam timing is above a set limit (over-advanced), the engine light will be illluminated and the code will be set. The “A” camshaft is either the intake, left, or front camshaft. A P0021 Lexus engine code is basically the same as a P0011 Lexus code, except this is for Bank 2, not Bank 1.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0025- "B" camshaft position- Timing over slow …

P0025 MEANS

P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
0 = SAE Reserved
25 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault
which yields the following information:P0025: Camshaft Position “B” – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0300- random/multiple cylinder misfire detected…

P0300 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
00 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

The P0300 code means that your engine is misfiring but the PCM/ECU is unable to localize the fault to a particular cylinder or to some specific cylinders.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0301- cylinder 1 misfire detected…

P0301 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
01 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected

The P0301 code means that your engine is misfiring and the PCM/ECU is able to localize the fault to a particular cylinder that is Cylinder #1.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected…


P0303 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
03 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected

The P0303 code means that your engine is misfiring and the PCM/ECU is able to localize the fault to a particular cylinder that is Cylinder #3.

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0352- ignition coil "B" primary/secondary circuit…

P0352 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
52 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Ignition Coil “B” Primary / Secondary Circuit

The P0352 code means that Cylinder #2 might have issues with its ignition coil (Note: B=2)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0354- ignition coil " " primary/secondary circuit…

P0354 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
54 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Ignition Coil “B” Primary / Secondary Circuit

The P0354 code means that Cylinder #4 might have issues with its ignition coil (Note: D=4)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0356- ignition coil "F" primary/secondary circuit…

P0356 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
56 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Ignition Coil “B” Primary / Secondary Circuit

The P0356 code means that Cylinder #6 might have issues with its ignition coil (Note: F=6)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0441- evaporative emission system incorrect purge flow…

P0441 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
4 = Emission Control
41 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

2007 lexus rx350 P0455- evaporative emissin system leak detected(large leak)…

P0455 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
4 = Emission Control
55 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Gross Leak)

Fix details later cc: Tunde783

AutoElectNG:


Thanks for the compliments.

We are happy for you that you have come to the realization that there is no need to tear open the engine cover to access the timing chain at this time.

We were sad for you, but there was little we could do for you, it is afterall your car!

If the wiring checks out between the sensor and the PCM/ECU,
THEN
the next thing to do is to check if the sensor checks out,
IF
the sensor does not check out,
THEN
replace the sensor with the factory recommended part no from a reputable parts supplier!

We do not recommend aftermarket chinese CMP sensors since they are of unreliable quality and can fail without warning!

ONLY IF
after replacing the sensor and things are still not in ok,
IN THAT
after doing the one trip detection logic
AND
the two trip detection logic the code comes back,
THEN AND ONLY THEN
will you need to tear down the engine to work on the timing chain.

I am back from my trip and will be meeting my mechanic tomorrow, just to shed more light on P0340.
You said after doing all the checks between sensor and wire harness and they come back good, one needs to do one trip and two trip detection logic to see if the code comes back before moving to the next step of timing chain.
Are you saying the CMP sensor is the ultimate check to know if one needs a timing chain replacement or if the chain is slack/jumped tooth or jumped timing? Why can't they engineer the timing chain in such a way one can check without opening valve cover and stuffs.

Remember I posted a YouTube video where a guy said kick starter could be a problem, I am posting a webpage below again to buttress that where they quoted kick starter and battery as some of the culprits of P0340, and also on that page a guy changed the CMP sensor and it didn't fix the problem until he changed the battery. EVEN ALTERNATOR change solved the P0340 for some people

Please note my car had a serious battery and kick starter problem also and they were changed AFTER the DTC code P0340 was detected, and additionally the old mechanic for my car blew the dirt off in the CMP connector, and the code hasn't come back even after the one trip and two trip logic detection.

So I am wondering the whole point of all the checks for P0340 you outlined is to not have the code come back after one trip and two trip logic detection, and my car so far after battery change, kick starter change and CMP connector cleaning has done more than two trips detection logic because I drove it for almost a 4hr journey without the P0340 code coming back.

See attached screenshot of the webpage I talked about

olaboy1:


I am back from my trip and will be meeting my mechanic tomorrow, just to shed more light on P0340.
You said after doing all the checks between sensor and wire harness and they come back good, one needs to do one trip and two trip detection logic to see if the code comes back before moving to the next step of timing chain.

Welcome back, hope it went well!

Remember the below:

Please note, according to m_05_0129, how does the PCM know that it should set a P0340 code?

When it notices either of two things:

1. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM during cranking - It uses a two trip detection logic to determine this

2. No camshaft position sensor signal to ECM at engine speed of 600 RPM or more. It uses a one trip detection logic to determine this

It also goes ahead to say that the trouble areas to consider (in that order) are:

1. Open or short in camshaft position sensor circuit - this is an electrical test. And you need to calculate the resistance to determine this

2. Camshaft Position Sensor - this is an electrical test. And you need to compare the resistance of the sensor in your car with the resistance as it should be per factory specifications

It is only and only if the two trouble areas above do not resolve the problem that you should go to the third

3. Camshaft timing pulley - this is a mechanical test

4. Jumped tooth of timing chain - this is a mechanical test

5. ECM replacement - this is an electrical issue.

If we were the ones fixing your ride, we would:

1. first run sensor checks (because provided the wiring is intact, the condition of the sensor needs to perfect for it to send correct signals, that is, signals that the ECU understands and within the ranges it was designed to expect) - this check has two parts, does the sensor send the correct signals when cold and when hot, if this test fails, we would replace the sensor

2. second run wiring checks (because the sensor needs intact wiring to send signals to the ECU and the ECU uses wires to send commands to/control the sensor) - if this check fails, we would fix then repair the wiring so the signals can travel without hindrance or interruption

3. third run is the sensor properly installed/seated - if this test fails, we could reseat it properly

4. fourth run is the camshaft in order? is the timing chain in order? -if this test fails, we would check if we need to work on the timing of the ride. But remember timing chains last longer than timing belts and take a lot of abuse, we find it difficult to believe that the problem is with the timing until we have ruled out the first 3 tests above

5. fifth and final test, if the timing is in order, and the code still reappears, then the problem is a sick PCM/ECU which we would then replace

After each section of the test, we would drive the vehicle and ensure that we meet the enabling criteria for the monitors in the one trip and two trip detection logic for the DTC to pass or fail the repair to run.

This means that we would clear the codes and run the vehicle until we meet the enabling criteria with the OBD II scan tool hooked. In other words, we would do this test as many times as we concluded each of the tests above, which means in a worst case scenario, we are looking at doing this 5 times.

Are you saying the CMP sensor is the ultimate check to know if one needs a timing chain replacement or if the chain is slack/jumped tooth or jumped timing? Why can't they engineer the timing chain in such a way one can check without opening valve cover and stuffs.

What these videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpAA3qeOYiI
and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Scpi91e1JKc

tell us the answer to your question Are you saying the CMP sensor is the ultimate check to know if one needs a timing chain replacement or if the chain is slack/jumped tooth or jumped timing?

Economics and space influence design choices!

Remember I posted a YouTube video where a guy said kick starter could be a problem, I am posting a webpage below again to buttress that where they quoted kick starter and battery as some of the culprits of P0340, and also on that page a guy changed the CMP sensor and it didn't fix the problem until he changed the battery.

Please note my car had a serious battery and kick starter problem also and they were changed AFTER the DTC code P0340 was detected, and additionally the old mechanic for my car blew the dirt off in the CMP connector, and the code hasn't come back even after the one trip and two trip logic detection.

So I am wondering the whole point of all the checks for P0340 you outlined is to not have the code come back after one trip and two trip logic detection, and my car so far after battery change, kick starter change and CMP connector cleaning has done more than two trips detection logic because I drove it for almost a 4hr journey without the P0340 code coming back.

Remember though that the video addresses issues that the ultimate reference guide on your ride did not address, so now that the code is no more, there is no about that code!

Did you ensure that the monitor conditions were met?

Yes, you did, so the problem is solved!

PCM/ECU was able to detect camshaft position sensor signal to the PCM/ECU at an engine speed of 600 RPM (one trip detection logic)

PCM/ECU was able to detect camshaft position sensor to the PCM/ECU during cranking (two trip detection logic)

That is why the DTC has not come back!! So we can treat the other codes!