AutoElectNG:



Is it all sorted out?

This was the suggested solution on this thread:

https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/5#54780638 as far back as March 20, 2017 at 1921

In the following words:



Have you done a post-repair scan that ensures that the following conditions are fulfilled?

The Mech couldn't finish it today, to be continued tomorrow.
Please let me know what I should watch out for tomorrow.

My Honda is giving an error code of P1077, please how do I sort this out ?

rebella:
My Honda is giving an error code of P1077, please how do I sort this out ?

Seen

Will respond next week

Super occupied at the moment

cc: tunde783 olaboy1

An update on my car.
I changed all the oxygen sensors to brand new original Toyota from Toyota company and my car is running like a champ now.
I used the wifi OBD to clear the codes and the codes are gone with no MIL. I have done one and two trips detection logic and I don't have a check engine light again.

Once i installed the Oxygen sensors upstream and downstream, it took the ECM some few minutes to relearn everything and now my engine does not idle like a Diesel engine anymore and also the power of the engine has increased, RPM very stable now, and the movement now fast and sharp.

Let's see if I pass emission test next week.
Thanks AutoElectNG for all your kind help in breaking everything down for me.

olaboy1:
An update on my car.
I changed all the oxygen sensors to brand new original Toyota from Toyota company and my car is running like a champ now.

Happy you followed the suggestion to replace the sensors

Did you get them in Europe?

How were you able to reduce the cost? As compared to the prices in the Unites States?

I used the wifi OBD to clear the codes and the codes are gone with no MIL. I have done one and two trips detection logic and I don't have a check engine light again.

Had a feeling that if the sensors were replaced everything would be alright, but since we are specialists, we don't throw parts at the car without conclusive evidence that those parts need to be replaced hence all the processes we followed

Once i installed the Oxygen sensors upstream and downstream, it took the ECM some few minutes to relearn everything and now my engine does not idle like a Diesel engine anymore and also the power of the engine has increased, RPM very stable now, and the movement now fast and sharp.

Watch the fuel consumption, it should improve considerably!

Let's see if I pass emission test next week.
Thanks AutoElectNG for all your kind help in breaking everything down for me.

It should pass the emission test since the emissions issue has been resolved, until then we cannot officially send the vehicle off the service bay.

If you pass, then we will give you our PayPal address, it sure deserves an inflow, as to the amount, we will leave that to you to decide!

And by the way, thank you for the pleasure of providing us our very first sight unseen ride for the purpose of the Nairaland OBD II online class.

So far you have helped to prove the assertion that with a good understanding of automotive technology, a copy of the manufacturer's service guidelines and obtaining automotive vehicle health from OBD II data, we can fix problems intelligently.

rebella:
My Honda is giving an error code of P1077, please how do I sort this out ?

Faulty Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC)
Valve IMRC Valve harness is open or shorted
IMRC Valve circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1077_honda.html
Get the intake manifold of your car inspected to ensure all hoses and harnesses are properly connected. A disconnection or improper connection can happen if any activity involving the intake manifold was carried out recently.

rebella:
My Honda is giving an error code of P1077, please how do I sort this out ?

Full details of the vehicle. Year/Model/Trim

You can get a one line response.

You can get a detailed picture.

We prefer the later to the former.

But that can only happen if you provide as much information as possible.

Once we have this, it will be be the very first post, when online diagnostics resume week.

HELP PLEASE OOOO!
Scanned my toyota avalon 2002 model and it threw up these codes
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305

Please wat do I do and how do I go about it.
A mechanic has been suggesting I change my 02sensor and spark plugs but I need a second opinion. The ride consumes fuel BTW.
Tnx

AutoElectNG:


Full details of the vehicle. Year/Model/Trim

You can get a one line response.

You can get a detailed picture.

We prefer the later to the former.

But that can only happen if you provide as much information as possible.

Once we have this, it will be be the very first post, when online diagnostics resume week.

it's an 07 civic IVTEC. Other error codes point to my changing the 2 oxygen sensors.

The car gets sluggish after driving for ages, the RPM too can be on 2000 while the car is doing 60km/hr

timifakay:

Faulty Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC)
Valve IMRC Valve harness is open or shorted
IMRC Valve circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1077_honda.html
Get the intake manifold of your car inspected to ensure all hoses and harnesses are properly connected. A disconnection or improper connection can happen if any activity involving the intake manifold was carried out recently.

Thanks, trying to get second opinions cos I getting conflicting views on how to handle it. Mech 1 says inspect IMRC, mech 2 is saying brainbox. So i'm confused

rebella:
Thanks, trying to get second opinions cos I getting conflicting views on how to handle it. Mech 1 says inspect IMRC, mech 2 is saying brainbox. So i'm confused

Is the P1077 the only code thrown by the vehicle?

Do you know the type of device used to read the code?

Can you arrange for it to be scanned by a professional scan tool instead of just a code reader in case there might be problems an ordinary code reader cannot pick up?

In the meantime, I will study the documentation on this code and be back with a professional opinion in a couple of days?

Did this just start suddenly? Or was work done on the vehicle before this started happening?

What is the mileage of the vehicle? Any recent repairs?

AutoElectNG:

Happy you followed the suggestion to replace the sensors

Did you get them in Europe?

How were you able to reduce the cost? As compared to the prices in the Unites States?




Had a feeling that if the sensors were replaced everything would be alright, but since we are specialists, we don't throw parts at the car without conclusive evidence that those parts need to be replaced hence all the processes we followed


Watch the fuel consumption, it should improve considerably!



It should pass the emission test since the emissions issue has been resolved, until then we cannot officially send the vehicle off the service bay.

If you pass, then we will give you our PayPal address, it sure deserves an inflow, as to the amount, we will leave that to you to decide!

And by the way, thank you for the pleasure of providing us our very first sight unseen ride for the purpose of the Nairaland OBD II online class.

So far you have helped to prove the assertion that with a good understanding of automotive technology, a copy of the manufacturer's service guidelines and obtaining automotive vehicle health from OBD II data, we can fix problems intelligently.

I bought the sensors in Europe as buying from abroad would have amounted to the same cost due to custom clearance and VAT.
I am pleased that we followed all due process to determine the right repairs.
Hahahaha Paypal don block me for account duplication, but not too worry local transfer still dey work.
Its interesting to be on this OBD forum and I have learnt so much. Your diagnosis also albeit online are concise and world class.

AutoElectNG:


Is the P1077 the only code thrown by the vehicle?

Do you know the type of device used to read the code?

Can you arrange for it to be scanned by a professional scan tool instead of just a code reader in case there might be problems an ordinary code reader cannot pick up?

In the meantime, I will study the documentation on this code and be back with a professional opinion in a couple of days?

Did this just start suddenly? Or was work done on the vehicle before this started happening?

What is the mileage of the vehicle? Any recent repairs?

It was done at a professional auto workshop. Other codes include p0453, p0498, p0141,p1298. It's been there for a while,mileage is around 131,000

rebella:


It was done at a professional auto workshop. Other codes include p0453, p0498, p0141,p1298. It's been there for a while,mileage is around 131,000

Thanks for providing a comprehensive picture.

We will be back with a detailed resolution guide to enable you decide the next move.

rebella:
Thanks, trying to get second opinions cos I getting conflicting views on how to handle it. Mech 1 says inspect IMRC, mech 2 is saying brainbox. So i'm confused

ECU/ brain box is last resort, start from simplest option and end with brain box.
What's your location?

olaboy1:


I bought the sensors in Europe as buying from abroad would have amounted to the same cost due to custom clearance and VAT.
I am pleased that we followed all due process to determine the right repairs.
Hahahaha Paypal don block me for account duplication, but not too worry local transfer still dey work.
Its interesting to be on this OBD forum and I have learnt so much. Your diagnosis also albeit online are concise and world class.

Lovely

OK, then since you are all the way in Sweden, that was why PayPal was suggested, a local account number is available

The classes are not over

There is still a lot that has not been covered.

J0hnTrevolt:
HELP PLEASE OOOO!
Scanned my toyota avalon 2002 model and it threw up these codes
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305

Please wat do I do and how do I go about it.
A mechanic has been suggesting I change my 02sensor and spark plugs but I need a second opinion. The ride consumes fuel BTW.
Tnx

We have a few vehicles in the driveway, but it will soon be your turn.

rebella:


It was done at a professional auto workshop. Other codes include p0453, p0498, p0141,p1298. It's been there for a while,mileage is around 131,000

Ideally the professional auto workshop should have given you a print out the code readout.

It would have been invaluable to study the Freeze Frame Data of your vehicle.

If you could obtain that information, it would be grand, but if you cannot, we will try our best without it!

AutoElectNG:


Ideally the professional auto workshop should have given you a print out the code readout.

It would have been invaluable to study the Freeze Frame Data of your vehicle.

If you could obtain that information, it would be grand, but if you cannot, we will try our best without it!

I got a print out, please what is the freeze frame data..lol

timifakay:

ECU/ brain box is last resort, start from simplest option and end with brain box.
What's your location?

Thanks,location is Lagos

I have installed the oxygen sensors upstream and downstream and erased the codes and MIL disappeared. I have done one trip and two trips detection logic and I don't have any DTC's and no MIL.
The car before the sensors fix and also after the fix doesn't start in like 2 seconds of turning the ignition key, you have to hold the key while the engine spins like 5 seconds before it starts which is quite different from my other car that starts at a blow.
I have below the live data if you could make any sense out of this for me, all I want is the car to start fast, function optimally with lower fuel consumption.
And also during cold start the RPM is like 1800 at idling, and when it's properly warm it goes to 740RPM, wondering if that is normal. Shouldn't the RPM be 740 immediately whether cold or warm.

FUEL SYSTEM STATUS
ECU 1. 2) closed loop: using O2 sensor for fuel mix
Engine load. 21.96%
Engine coolant temperature. 67.00 degrees Celsius
Short term fuel trim % - Bank 1. Minus 19 to minus 21.09
Long term fuel trim % - Bank 1. Minus 8.59
Short term fuel trim % - Bank 2. Minus 19 to minus 21.09
Long term fuel trim % - Bank 2. Minus 6.25
Engine RPM. 738
Timing advance. 9.5 - 10 degrees
Intake air temp IAT. 30.00 degrees Celsius
MAF air flow rate. 2.96 grams/sec
Throttle position. 12.55%

OXYGEN SENSORS 1 PRESENT
ECU1. 00110011
0212(Bank 1). 0.7 - 0.85v
0212(Bank 2). Not used. %
0222(Bank 1). 0.7 - 0.78v
0222(Bank 2). Not used. %

OBD STANDARD
ECU1 EOBD (Europe)
02S1 (Bank 1). 0.9 - 1.008v
02S1 (Bank 2). 3.344%
02S5 (Bank 1). 0.81 - 0.997v
02S5 (Bank 2). 3.2 - 3.315%

FSM conditions

olaboy1:
I have installed the oxygen sensors upstream and downstream and erased the codes and MIL disappeared. I have done one trip and two trips detection logic and I don't have any DTC's and no MIL.

Good, I don't see why it should not pass emissions inspection and why my bank account should not smile from your gratitude! LOL.

The car before the sensors fix and also after the fix doesn't start in like 2 seconds of turning the ignition key, you have to hold the key while the engine spins like 5 seconds before it starts which is quite different from my other car that starts at a blow.

You have to find out from those who have 1AZ-FE engines installed if any of their vehicles start in 2 seconds of turning the ignition key. Not privileged to conduct that test so no information to share.

Also, it seems that the other vehicles that you are comparing the Picnic to might be more recent vehicles or vehicles from another stable.

While the principles underpinning automotive technology remain largely the same, the implementations are different. In other words, the theory remains the same, but the application is not uniform so we can expect changes in behavior from one engine to another.


In any case, how does a car start?

Until a certain number of engine revolutions is reached, the car cannot start. Until the ECM receives/processes expected input(s) and output(s) from certain sensors, the car will not start.

Seems to much to expect everything to happen in 2 seconds for vehicles of that area, 5 seconds is more like it!

I have below the live data if you could make any sense out of this for me, all I want is the car to start fast, function optimally with lower fuel consumption.
And also during cold start the RPM is like 1800 at idling, and when it's properly warm it goes to 740RPM, wondering if that is normal. Shouldn't the RPM be 740 immediately whether cold or warm.

FUEL SYSTEM STATUS
ECU 1. 2) closed loop: using O2 sensor for fuel mix
Engine load. 21.96%
Engine coolant temperature. 67.00 degrees Celsius
Short term fuel trim % - Bank 1. Minus 19 to minus 21.09
Long term fuel trim % - Bank 1. Minus 8.59
Short term fuel trim % - Bank 2. Minus 19 to minus 21.09
Long term fuel trim % - Bank 2. Minus 6.25
Engine RPM. 738
Timing advance. 9.5 - 10 degrees
Intake air temp IAT. 30.00 degrees Celsius
MAF air flow rate. 2.96 grams/sec
Throttle position. 12.55%

OXYGEN SENSORS 1 PRESENT
ECU1. 00110011
0212(Bank 1). 0.7 - 0.85v
0212(Bank 2). Not used. %
0222(Bank 1). 0.7 - 0.78v
0222(Bank 2). Not used. %

OBD STANDARD
ECU1 EOBD (Europe)
02S1 (Bank 1). 0.9 - 1.008v
02S1 (Bank 2). 3.344%
02S5 (Bank 1). 0.81 - 0.997v
02S5 (Bank 2). 3.2 - 3.315%

Can we get the above in a table?

You can use Excel or take a picture from the scanner and then post it here?

In any case, this information has not been analyzed at this moment, so inferences cannot be drawn, maybe later.

As to your other question about RPMs, here is your answer: High RPM at start helps your engine warm up faster, once it warms up, the RPM improves.

This video shows the problem you think you have
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQ0vqDwlVLk but this link provides additional detail as to why it is not a problem: for vehicles with a similar engine to yours: http://www.rav4world.com/forums/83-4-1-general/85680-high-idle-start-then-fine-after-10mins.html

As a matter of fact, this exact same thing happens on my own personal ride, high RPM at start which gradually slows down till it is somewhere between 700 and 800 RPM.

rebella:

I got a print out, please what is the freeze frame data..lol

Freeze Frame Data is when the ECU decides to take a selfie of key engine parameters at the moment in time that a DTC is thrown.

Read more here: https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/1#54562357

Can you upload a copy of the print out or would you prefer to email it?

Ok I don't need to worry about RPM anymore then.
My major concern right now is Short term fuel trim percentage. What does my minus 21.09 STFT mean in terms of fuel consumption and what are the trouble areas to look. With the attached pix pls explain further.
At idle I have minus 21.09 for bank 1 and 2. when I added load with high RPM around 2500-3000RPM it moves between +5, 0, -8, -21.09 for bank 1 and 2.

When I introduced a big vacuum leak after the MAF sensor, the STFT Bank 1/2 also moved up and down. About same value as above.
After this last check of introducing vacuum leak and putting back the hose properly at idle I noticed something.
STFT Bank 1 moves between -7 to -13
STFT Bank 2 moves between -17.97 to -21.09

Can I pass emission test this way and later fix this problem because I have the emission test tomorrow, or do I reschedule.
I was wondering since I don't have any DTC's and no MIL it won't be a problem to pass emission. I need advice on this also

STFT pixs at idle before artificially creating a big vacuum leak

STFT at idle after introducing vacuum leak and putting back the hose.

olaboy1:
Ok I don't need to worry about RPM anymore then.
My major concern right now is Short term fuel trim percentage. What does my minus 21.09 STFT mean in terms of fuel consumption and what are the trouble areas to look. With the attached pix pls explain further.
At idle I have minus 21.09 for bank 1 and 2. when I added load with high RPM around 2500-3000RPM it moves between +5, 0, -8, -21.09 for bank 1 and 2.

When I introduced a big vacuum leak after the MAF sensor, the STFT Bank 1/2 also moved up and down. About same value as above.
After this last check of introducing vacuum leak and putting back the hose properly at idle I noticed something.
STFT Bank 1 moves between -7 to -13
STFT Bank 2 moves between -17.97 to -21.09

Can I pass emission test this way and later fix this problem because I have the emission test tomorrow, or do I reschedule.
I was wondering since I don't have any DTC's and no MIL it won't be a problem to pass emission. I need advice on this also

It is not ideal to look at STFT in isolation.

LTFT is also required.

Indeed both are necessary to comprehensively deduce the state of the engine with respect to fuel trims.

Can you provide both STFT AND LTFT at
1) idle
2) 1,500 RPM
3) 2,500 RPM

Thanks!

To obtain correct readings, lock in the RPM at the recommended values for at least 30 seconds before noting both values.

You may need a helper!

J0hnTrevolt:
HELP PLEASE OOOO!
Scanned my toyota avalon 2002 model and it threw up these codes
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305

Please wat do I do and how do I go about it.
A mechanic has been suggesting I change my 02sensor and spark plugs but I need a second opinion. The ride consumes fuel BTW.
Tnx

oga u dnt even wanna treat my little issue. No wahala.

J0hnTrevolt:
oga u dnt even wanna treat my little issue. No wahala.

We empathize with you and sympathize with you
BUT IF
you revisit our posts of

1) March 28, 2017 at 1.24pm, you will notice that it was announced that the ability to respond in detail would be hampered because of other projects we are working on

2) March 31, 2017 at 12.20am, further noted that there still wasn't enough time to respond in detail to issues raised on this thread

3) March 31, 2017 at 10.49pm, just above your post, further observed that full diagnostics would resume next week when the projects being handled would reach advanced stages allowing time for more detailed responses

You can get a one line response.

You can get a detailed picture.

We prefer the later to the former.

Your case will be treated this week.

As for the case of the picnic, it is already ongoing and given the time-sensitive nature of the emission test the owner was about to take, it was necessary to respond to him ASAP.

We have nothing against you!

It is just that we try to be painstaking and detailed, it is the best or nothing as far as we are concerned.

AutoElectNG:


Freeze Frame Data is when the ECU decides to take a selfie of key engine parameters at the moment in time that a DTC is thrown.

Read more here: https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/1#54562357

Can you upload a copy of the print out or would you prefer to email it?

I will prefer to mail it, please what's your email address. Thanks