liquidcrystal73:


There is really no need throwing parts at vehicle . . .
If a scan is done; it could pin-point the exact problem; else; we solve by elimination.
Instead of buying new spark plug wires/coils; he should test for continuity of current flow to the spark plugs
by checking for sparks when grounded . . .
DO NOT JUST CHANGE PARTS WITHOUT DIAGNOSIS . . very wrong !!!

fidtopade:
Oil light issue: after my engine knocked and crackshaft and metal, 4 x pisting and rings, 2 x camp shaft replaced. The oil light always come up whenever the engine is on. But when you truttle it, the oil light goes of. I have change the oil switch and the oil pump, but this problem persist.
I still notice some noise from the engine when the car is being tuttled.

Please what could be responsible for these??

onepence:
I get your point. However,I spoke from experience of having used the same car as the complainer.

kollysnut:
I drive a toyota corolla, I noticed something about the car, when the idling the RMP is just a little below 1, which I think is normal. After driving for a while, while still on Drive gear and the brake is applied( still on drive gear). The RPM goes slower, almost at the BTW 1 and 0. Then the car start shaking small small (noticeable). But immediate I accelerate the shaking stops.

Pls what could be wrong, no check light on. Noticed this about a weak nw.

The said car is a toyota corolla sport 05.

Thank you.

liquidcrystal73:


Inspect Engine mounts
Remove and clean carbon deposits from Throttle Body, else;
Replace IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE
If you have access to a scanner .. check live data for intake air measurements . . .
should be at least 3.2 g/cm³ from experience.

kollysnut:


Thanks..i will do that...

liquidcrystal73:


A symptom doesn't exist for only 1 car problem . . . e.g
a car that stalls could be as a result of bad fuel pump, bad spark plugs, or a damaged intake air system . . .
so for the fact that you changed your spark plug wire(s) as you claimed, DOESN'T mean it's the same problem he's suffering from;
you understand ?

liquidcrystal73:


In there lies your answer . . .

When the door isn't flush with the body; the door switch makes partial or zero contact; hence
the "Door Ajar" light stays on . . . The interior lights would also stay on ( you might not notice, due to burnt out bulbs); except
you turn them off Manually.
So you might be looking at a "mechanical issue" here . .
Get a panel-beater to fix the door locking mechanism that that is closes completely !

onepence:
sorry sir, I don't. Camry fuel pumps don't go out that easily. He had change the spark plugs earlier. As for the air intake system, I doubt tgat .

ruz:
I have a corolla x 2004 and my major issue has been the screeching sound the brakes make most times I depress them. I have changed by brake pads 4 times using different ones, changed brake plates, but there doesn't seem to be any solution. I hear most corollas have such problems.

semid4lyfe:
liquidcrystal73,

I greet you specially.

I had an accident with my 2002 Toyota Camry V6 November last year. The car skidded off the road into a bush and the exhaust got extensively damaged with grass and leaves tucked into it. Catalytic converter, exhaust pot were replaced and some welding work was done.

Since then, fuel consumption has gone over the roof and scanning has revealed p1135 (A/F Sensor Circuit Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1) and p1155 (A/F Sensor Circuit Heater Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1) error codes.

I do not believe the A/F sensors have gone bad cos it's unlikely for the two A/F sensors at different locations to go bad at the same time. Also, the same p1135 and p1155 codes were present when I first got the car and you said I might need to change the sensors but the error codes disappeared after exhaust work and the sensors were not changed.

I've had 2 other panel beaters/mechanics examine the exhaust and test drive, and they all tell me, "Oga, your exhaust is fine. No let anyone take you chop". They say there's no popping sound when starting the car, no visible leaks and the exhaust is breathing fine.

However, the slight stalling I experience when accelerating (not all the time and not too often), the increased grunt, decreased power & acceleration and the now excessive fuel consumption make me believe all is not well with my car. (Car did not have these issues before the accident).

I don tire, and I wan park the car as the fuel consumption don dey dig hole for my pocket. I'll be glad if I can be pointed in the right direction to get the problem fixed once & for all.

NB: I am in Abakaliki, Ebonyi State.

liquidcrystal73:


You either have loose drum shoes (which need manual adjustments);
or a binding caliper . . .
Replace with OEM brake pads; not before resurfacing the disc (within safe limits)/replacement
Then adjust drum shoes and service calipers/replace to stop binding !!

ruz:


Thanks for the reply. Can you recommend an OEM brakepad for my car type?

fidtopade:
Oil light issue: after my engine knocked and crackshaft and metal, 4 x pisting and rings, 2 x camp shaft replaced. The oil light always come up whenever the engine is on. But when you truttle it, the oil light goes of. I have change the oil switch and the oil pump, but this problem persist.
I still notice some noise from the engine when the car is being tuttled.

Please what could be responsible for these??

dan6019:
I have a landcruiser Prado, AWD, 2001. My problem is with the Auto transmission. I have just replaced the ATF thinking it is the cause of the problem because it got burnt. When the gear is in D or R, it behaves as if it is in Neutral, engine revvs high and no movement.

What do I do? I am scared of replacing the transmission, as you can hardly get a functional one without any problem. I may need to get this one checked and rebuilt, my concern is the expert to handle it. Can anyone recommend one. I am in Lekki, Lagos.

Thanks

liquidcrystal73:
Drive a Toyota that has been acting up lately . . . ?

Feel free to ask me and to the best of my knowledge and circumstances;

I will try to solve the issues.


Thank you

jum33:

It is only a intectually lazy peeps that deals with Toyota only .All cars brand s the same general architect ,though specification may differ.
This is why we remain behind technologically -wise.Mechanic will be the one dictating the car to use for us becos they are afraid to think beyond anything Toyota and Honda. They are all afraid of Benz ,BMW and other high ends cars !!!Bunch of wasted generations!!

liquidcrystal73:
Drive a Toyota that has been acting up lately . . . ?

Feel free to ask me and to the best of my knowledge and circumstances;

I will try to solve the issues.


Thank you

GAZZUZZ:
why pesin go just de sell beef like this?

ogoplus:


Great job you are doing!

Car infor: Toyota Sienna '02

One Kazzem working on the car drove it for 50 metres(within his workshop without Oil in the Steering Oil reserve can)

After that time, I observe that my steering wheel operates normal whenever I start driving but steering becomes stiff and hard to operate after driving for like 2 hours.

What do I need the change to solve the hardness of the steering wheel? the steering pump or the steering rack?

Thanks....

GAZZUZZ:


Have you ever welded the power steering pressure hose?

ogoplus:


No sir. I have never welded the power steering pressure hose.

I have never had any issue with the power steering.

I went to do alignment and wheel balancing and the guy observed that I need to change my ATF.

So I gave him the go-ahead.

As part for changing the oil, he emptied the power steering reservoir and drove the car for a short distance.

That's when the issue started

Let me also add that the ATF seems to be leaking because I have started observing oil drops where I pack the car.

Like I said earlier, the Steering works well when I commence driving, the stiffness starts after driving for like hours or more.

Recently, I opened the engine compartment while the engine was running and observed a faint smoke coming from the steering pump.