mayor2013:


You ask the "op" to use 5w30 on a ride with 222,145km. ride on sir

AutoElectNG:


My personal vehicle has hit 200,000 miles, and I still use 5w30 and will use it till the engine grenades itself.

But you can teach me why I shouldn't.

I am very open-minded and will consider your suggestions on the basis of its merits.

I know people who have used the same oil weight to 500,000 miles

mayor2013:


This suggests why you want to check a ghost service history. Don't gamble on this sir

AutoElectNG:


Back up your position with facts.

5w30 flows better than 20w50 because it is thinner, hence better fuel economy.

20w50 does not flow as well as 5w30 because it is thicker, hence worse fuel economy.

Why condemn the OP to 20w50 without thorough analysis that proves that is a wise decision?

Not all high mileage engines are condemned to run 20w50!

What of protection when it matters most at startup?

Everything is give an take - which is more important - greater oil film thickness or flow (how quickly it gets to protect moving parts)?

To me flow matters more than film strength unless the engine is certified worn, then the decision will be different.

I know how to check service history for American used vehicles, I just confirmed to a guy who was worried, if ever his timing belt was changed down to the date and the mileage, same for the coolant, the shocks, and a lot more.

I can pull up the same data for the OP

May I know which ghost you have in mind? Sir?

Thank you.

mayor2013:


The internet is different from the field of play.

Oil plays a larger role in VVT systems. They need engine oil not only for lubrication, but also to actuate the camshafts to change the profile of the lobes.

Oil quality, condition and specifications are critical to the performance of the system. The passages and orifices can be very small and prone to sludging. Also, the oil acts as hydraulic fluid to move the actuators. If the oil does not have the correct viscosity, the behavior of the actuators will change.

The very first step I take before turning nuts and bolts is to check the oil. Dirty oil and the lack of regular oil changes can leave a buildup of sludge or debris in the passages leading to the pressure control valve that operates the VVT. If the oil is dirty and too much sludge accumulates at the valve ports, the sludge can be passed on through the cam and the valve assembly. From there, the oil passages in the cam can be compromised and could result in a cam failure due to scored journals.

Lack of regular maintenance seems to be the big factor in most of these systems. Unlike vehicles from years gone by where certain maintenance issues could be neglected, these newer engines and newer systems require the utmost in care. Stressing this point to your customers and performing the required basic maintenance per the manufacturer’s schedule will safeguard their vehicle and increase your profits.

Most late-model engines are ­factory filled with multiviscosity 5w-20 or 5w-30 motor oil, but some require 5w-40, 0w-20 or 0w-30. Be sure to follow the viscosity recommendations because many of these engines have tighter bearing clearances that require a lower-viscosity oil for proper lubrication. Thinner oils also improve fuel economy.

You should be able to find out which oils are approved for various makes/models/applications by searching the OEM service literature or an aftermarket repair database.

AmandaLuv:
please was urs guzzling fuel?

AutoElectNG:
AmandaLuv, it is up to you who you listen to.

Here is third party explanation for the position that oil is critical to the behavior of the VVT system, and therefore by mandating that we start this fix from the point of view of running the correct oil, I have not deviated for engineering and scientific principles.

Although the system is party electrical and partly mechanic, without oil which takes care of the hydraulic angle, everything falls apart.

As the link I will provide proves, it is not just any oil, it has to be oil of the correct viscosity, which translates to the manufacturer's recommendation which translate to 5W30 in your case.

Here are excerpts to help you make up you appreciate where my recommendation so far comes from:




Observation: Your engine is particularly prone to sludge by the way!


Observation: This is standard practice in more than one service location. I am not an exception, its the simple things first, not the complex things first. Some shops even go further to check for sludge formation, I have not ruled that out for your ride either.

Why conduct invasive surgery without ruling out everything else?


Note: Instead of rushing into electrical or mechanical issues, I made you realize that oil, the correct oil is pivotal to a perfectly functional VVT system, so that if and when the system is fixed, the repair will stand the test of time. Secondly, I did not try to talk above you, it is your vehicle afterall, so I made sure to carry you along and made sure that you at least appreciated if not understood the fix I proposed.


Observation: You are in business for profit, would you knowing carry coins in a bag with a hole? If your answer is no, why use an oil that robes your vehicle of fuel economy. 20w50 is fine if you are racing the vehicle at 110MPH day in day out, but you are not, there is just no justification for 20w50 at this time.


Observation: Done that for you already, use 5w30!

Source: http://www.underhoodservice.com/video-fuel-pump-filters-current/

Although they do not mention the exact code you have, it does not take away from the fact that the use of the correct type of oil is a must for proper operation of the VVT system.

There are at least two guys on this forum who have constituted themselves into opposition parties in relation to me because I had cause to call them out, and so that must be borne in mind when considering their points of view, they have an axe to grind and they can't even disguise it, until they do away with that bias, take everything they say with a grain of salt.

Anyone who has an alternative point of view is welcome to state it but provide proof why it should be that way, instead of blanket sweeping statements without basis.

AmandaLuv:
OK. American used.

emmaak2:





THEN IS IT ADVISABLE FOR 2001 CAMRY DRIVEN FOR 5YRS WITH 20W50 TO BE CHANGE TO 5W20?

AmandaLuv:
Hello my people,
Please I have a toyota siena that is guzzling a lot of fuel. This car was shipped directly from the US and has never been worked on. No issue with the car apart from the fuel ish and the check engine light on. Its bn scanned and it brought forth code
p0300
P0301
P0303
Vvt system malfunction bank 1 P1349
Please wat could be wrong?
Unfortunately the car is in the east as all d professionals seems to be based in lagos.
Please I'll need any professional mechanic in umuahia dat can fix this for me. Not kazeeem biko. Lol

AutoElectNG:


Good to know that the check engine light has always been on.

Good to know the about the oil level.

5w30 is more expensive than 20w50.
5w30 is what is recommended for your vehicle.

Remember that the VVT system is partly hydraulic in nature, by using 20w50, you are using too heavy an oil weight, an oil weight that is does not meet the specifications around which the engine was designed to operate.

I could recommend deeper diagnostics, but I want to eliminate the possibility that the oil is responsible for the problem first.

You could learn a thing or two from this thread: http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/165489-sae-5w30-vs-5w40-vs-20w50.html

Or you could run the oil for the whole 5000 miles , then at the next oil change switch to 5w30 so we can see if the oil was the problem.

Before trying something deeper or more involved

GAZZUZZ:


From all the long chatter I read in all the posts, I can deduce your engine has a sludge problem.

I will not advice you to use the right weight of engine oil at this time 5w30, because it will shorten the lifespan of your engine

There are 2 strainers on both banks of the cylinder, they allow oil flow to the VVTI solenoids, presently the one on bank 1. Is blocked, I will show you the location of both strainers once I get to the workshop at 9am.

Remove both, have them cleaned.

Change engine oil more regularly on shorter intervals to keep engine clean. In case I forget quote me.

ironheart:
at our current temperature, 20w30 is ok. As long as he is not planning to visit Jos town. American spec use 5w30 because there temperature does drop fast. Wear n tears happen in the few minutes of an engine start. 20w50 is ok

AutoElectNG:


Did you mean to say 20w30? Or something else?

Thanks by the way.

GAZZUZZ:


From all the long chatter I read in all the posts, I can deduce your engine has a sludge problem.

I will not advice you to use the right weight of engine oil at this time 5w30, because it will shorten the lifespan of your engine

There are 2 strainers on both banks of the cylinder, they allow oil flow to the VVTI solenoids, presently the one on bank 1. Is blocked, I will show you the location of both strainers once I get to the workshop at 9am.

Remove both, have them cleaned.

Change engine oil more regularly on shorter intervals to keep engine clean. In case I forget quote me.

AutoElectNG:
As for the issue of loss of fuel economy along with P1349, I have checked every single case of this issue in an aftermarket database, it always comes along with a significant loss of fuel economy.

So what you experience is normal in the light of the presence of that code.

Presented above is the mechanical side of things!

AmandaLuv:
Thank u so much engineer GAZZUZZ.
Please is this mechanical or electrical problem?
Who is to fix it?
The selonoid what will they clean it with?
No need to buy a new one?
Sorry for too many questions.
I await the location of the strainer u talked about.

AutoElectNG:

Seen.
Will revert with a response.
But I will need to get answers to some questions from you as well

GAZZUZZ:


This is Not DIY for you, please show pics to your mechanic.

AmandaLuv:
please is this strainer or solenoid? Is solenoid and strainer same thing?
Wats the name of picture u sent me and wat do I tell d mech to do on it.
U did not answer me if its mechanical or wat an electrician will do.
Tnx for ur input.

GAZZUZZ:



I am still uploading pics

AmandaLuv:
OK sir.
Will dat be all?

GAZZUZZ:



Movie has ended on this side.

AmandaLuv:
I'm so grateful sir for ur time and efforts. God bless u real good.

Plz one more thing, the strainer is it to be cleaned dry or with solvent like carberator cleaner?


God bless u real good sir.

Replacing would have been ideal. Unfortunately you will not fint it to buy in your area, so just bath it in carb cleaner

AutoElectNG:
Thank you Gazzuzz!

I can always count on you!!