HeartforGod:
Thanks bigrovar.

The cc is Fangpusun 70a mppt with an external display. I have my HT freezer (240w name plate, though my prag inverter displays 1.8a as current draw for the frezzer) connected to it and runs during the day. fans and TVs stay on once my children come back from school.

On the cc, the bulk indicator light stays on all day while the solar is charging and never goes into absorb or float mode at all. my location is PH.

Extra info i can provide is the battery OC voltage stays around 25.0V (6 units of mercury 220ah FLA connected in series-parralel) after night use. I plan on adding washing machine to the inverter but not having the batteries go into absorb/float is posing as a show stopper for me

(

HeartforGod:
Thanks Earthrealm,

My batteries are still performing fine and they are 220ah mercury tubular FLA (15.8kwh battery size). The distance from pv to cc is about 35ft completed with 10mm copper cable. Also, cc is connected to the battery busbar with 2 metre long 25mm fine stranded copper cable.

DMerciful:
Power pressing iron with ur inverter on a sunny day and confirm the current going into d battery from the cc. If high ur installation is OK. If low, then do the following.
change ur panel configuration to 2*3 so that ur PV voltage is 50v-70v max. Unlike Epsolar, Fangpusun works best when PV input voltage to cc is twice battery voltage.
-if changing to 2*3, use 16mm and above flexible cable.

HeartforGod:
Thanks bigrovar.

The cc is Fangpusun 70a mppt with an external display. I have my HT freezer (240w name plate, though my prag inverter displays 1.8a as current draw for the frezzer) connected to it and runs during the day. fans and TVs stay on once my children come back from school.

On the cc, the bulk indicator light stays on all day while the solar is charging and never goes into absorb or float mode at all. my location is PH.

Extra info i can provide is the battery OC voltage stays around 25.0V (6 units of mercury 220ah FLA connected in series-parralel) after night use. I plan on adding washing machine to the inverter but not having the batteries go into absorb/float is posing as a show stopper for me

(

mcci:


How many hours during the day is your Freezer, TVs and Fans on?
If freezer is on all day, I'll recommend you get a timer switch and control when it comes on and off, say between 1pm and 5pm.

When children go to school is anyone else at home?
If not then on a sunny day it is possible you hit float by 1pm or absorb atleast before children are back from school by 1pm or 2pm

HeartforGod:
Thanks DMerciful,

I can do that but getting required length of 16mm copper cable to reconfigure the setup can bore a serious hole in my pocket.

I was considering building a rack to elevate the panels to have a tilt of about 10 - 15 degrees. With this, i may get better harvest and also there will be free flow of air around the panels, thus keeping them cool. What do you think? Wind force on panels during torrential rain is my only fear.

JUO:
please check the back of your device for proper wattage

GeorgeD1:


purplekayc,
could you resend this post with wattage attached to the equipments?
i can only give you proper recommendation if i know the total power demand of your house load.

purplekayc:


CPU 1=95 watts
CPU 2= 60 "
LG LED TV =75 watts
LG LED TV = 30 watts
LG home theatre DVD player =100 watts
LG surround sound player. =(couldn't get the wattage for this guess it should be less than 100)
Strong decoder. = 25 watts
DSTV decoder. = 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs @26 watts each
Dell monitor= 17 watts
Acer monitor = 30 watts

purplekayc:


CPU 1=95 watts
CPU 2= 60 "
LG LED TV =75 watts
LG LED TV = 30 watts
LG home theatre DVD player =100 watts
LG surround sound player. =(couldn't get the wattage for this guess it should be less than 100)
Strong decoder. = 25 watts
DSTV decoder. = 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs @26 watts each
Dell monitor= 17 watts
Acer monitor = 30 watts

purplekayc:


CPU 1=95 watts
CPU 2= 60 "
LG LED TV =75 watts
LG LED TV = 30 watts
LG home theatre DVD player =100 watts
LG surround sound player. =(couldn't get the wattage for this guess it should be less than 100)
Strong decoder. = 25 watts
DSTV decoder. = 45 watts
8 energy saving bulbs @26 watts each
Dell monitor= 17 watts
Acer monitor = 30 watts

DMerciful:
Power pressing iron with ur inverter on a sunny day and confirm the current going into d battery from the cc. If high ur installation is OK. If low, then do the following.
change ur panel configuration to 2*3 so that ur PV voltage is 50v-70v max. Unlike Epsolar, Fangpusun works best when PV input voltage to cc is twice battery voltage.
-if changing to 2*3, use 16mm and above flexible cable.

HeartforGod:
Thanks mcci for your suggestion.

The freezer is on timer (9am - 17pm), and TV with decode (about 64w), Binatone fans (65w each, atleast 2 stays ON) and LED lights all come ON from about 2:30pm till 9pm. More LED and energy saver lights come ON as dusk approaches. Reducing the panel tilt to about 15degrees is strongly on my mind but don't if that improve my harvest.

Oshomo12:


Hello, ur panels have no air flow under them, hope u know that they get very hot? Once the temp is that high, there is a large drop in the efficiency (silicon prefer cold temp). In ur case, the heat generated at the back of the panels have very little space to escape, so it goes back up to heatup the panels. That's one of the reasons u re getting about 50% of ur total panel wattage. Again ur tilt angle at about 30 is a little high, around 14-10 is ok. 10mm for 35ft is ok for a voltage higher than 80 v. Do this corrections and don't forget to send me a cake!

nene2016:
HeartofGod,

Were you able to give the bolded a shot?

HeartforGod:


Thanks Oshomo for the suggestion. I will do just that. And will also carry out load test on the panels as gurus in the house did suggest.
NB: the cake is currently baking

earthrealm:


ooh, i didnt get that part -- so his panels are flat on the roof?..
if so thats a bad idea like the poster above stated, get a local welder to fabricate a short rack for you, using angle iron, if you have a fair bit of trignometry, you can calculate the height of the legs to help you achieve an angle closer to 10/15 deg inclination,---- ie make the front or hind legs of the rack shorter or longer as the case may be, the legs shudnt exceed 12inchies to avoid instability and wind factors

earthrealm:


ooh, i didnt get that part -- so his panels are flat on the roof?..
if so thats a bad idea like the poster above stated, get a local welder to fabricate a short rack for you, using angle iron, if you have a fair bit of trignometry, you can calculate the height of the legs to help you achieve an angle closer to 10/15 deg inclination,---- ie make the front or hind legs of the rack shorter or longer as the case may be, the legs shudnt exceed 12inchies to avoid instability and wind factors

DMerciful:
Flat panel mounting for places on d equator is about d best fyi however a little inclination for ours of 6° facing south balances out our 6° offset towards North. Also that 6° inclination provides a washing angle that ensures d rain cleans ur panels. While flat is better along d equator is cos the Sun moves from Capricorn to Cancer(South to North) every 6 months, flat orientation captures both ends

Oshomo12:


hello, I agree with ur words, but the issue here is that these particular panels lie flat on the roof with no or very little air flow under them. so they will get very hot, and reduce the efficiency to about 50%.

DMerciful:
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DMerciful:
If you want to increase the space between panels n roof.....use standard solar mounts. Angle is different from spacing

Oshomo12:

Bros I hail o. I am sure u did not read thru my whole suggestions. Spacing one of the Reasons..... There is anoda part I talked about. Thank u.

DMerciful:
Space will create gap for airflow besides power loss due to temp is than 5%. While u may loose as much as 40% with wrong angles

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Oshomo12:

I will disagree with u on this(less than 5%?). The experiment I carried out shows otherwise. I had two panels flat on the roof, with very little airflow. Between 12:30 and 1:00pm I was getting max of 9.4 amps. These panels should give me nothing less than 14amps( though the angle was around 26deg). I check d temp under the panels, it was very high. What I did was that I have my water pump connected to hoss, and I showered it on panels and the surrounding roof. This last for about 3mins, when I got inside to check the current I was pulling, I could see around 14.7amps! After some time, it went back to around 10 amps. This is what I observed, I want to believe that is more than 5%. The only thing I did was just to cool them down.

DMerciful:
How did you keep the luminosity (around 1000w/m^2) constant? Even without pouring water, amps rises and falls based on the luminosity which is influenced by clouds you may not even see! If the difference is this much u would have seen water cooled panels
Try watch u cc display for 1hours and see how current rises from 30%-80%-50% and back to 30%. When there's reduction in d luminosity, d cc tracks d max power point and you see the current fluctuating upandan

Oshomo12:


Lol.
There was no cloud cover my brother! I have watched this cc for weeks around that same time (done my experiment in February, peak of the heat at my side). That was the highest current seen so far(9.4amps, even with a resistive load on, eg iron) before I decided to carry out the test. Never saw that current again(14.7 amps), after my experiment( still within same period). Until I gave some space, very good spacing I mean, between the roof and the panel.

Oshomo12:
@DMerciful
Anyways, u are correct I am wrong. Maybe I don't know what I am doing, but that is what I have observed and reported. Thank u for ur time.

DMerciful:
In trying to give spacing did you change the angle?