GeorgeD1:


hello juokorow
the most important dimensions you should worry about is that of the frame which carries the tank.
i will climb to the top of the water tower and take actual measurements by weekend and revert.
cheers!

Hello, in addition to your pics , I believe this dimensions below can be of lucid help ;

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please gurus, what's the difference between battery rated @20hr and the one rated @10hr..

Installed a battery rated @20hr... wanted to upgrade the battery bank and I got the same battery but this one now is rated @10hr. both 12v 200Ah.SAME BRAND!

what's the difference? can they be mixed

Thanks

What's the difference?
The one rated @10hr means the capacity is 200AH if current is drawn such as to deplete it in 10hrs: it will give you 10hrs at constant current draw of 20A.

The one rated @20hr means the capacity is 200AH if current is drawn such as to deplete it in 20hrs: it will give you 20hrs at constant current draw of 10A.

If you prorated both at the same hour rate, the one at 10hr has slightly greater AH rating. Reason: the larger the current drawn from a battery, the lower its capacity.
So the one rated 200AH at 10hr might have capacity of 220AH at 20hr.

Can you mix them?
Depend on how you want to mix them and on their respective age.
If the older one is still good you can mix but you must balance the mix by ensuring that all strings have same number of old and same number of new batteries. Add battery balancer to the setup to prevent sudden failure of the old ones.
In principle, we are advised not to mix old and new batteries.

mcTrinity:
please gurus, what's the difference between battery rated @20hr and the one rated @10hr..

Installed a battery rated @20hr... wanted to upgrade the battery bank and I got the same battery but this one now is rated @10hr. both 12v 200Ah.SAME BRAND!

what's the difference? can they be mixed

Thanks

SolnergyPower:
Good day friends.

Do you have experience with FELICITY INVERTERS, how efficient are their inverters?

Thank you.

Their inverter works very well, I use it. Call/whatapp 08117398294 for swift delivery at affordable price

Is there anyone in this honorable house that sells a victron energy "VE direct to USB interface cable"?

mank1234:
What's the difference?
The one rated @10hr means the capacity is 200AH if current is drawn such as to deplete it in 10hrs: it will give you 10hrs at constant current draw of 20A.

The one rated @20hr means the capacity is 200AH if current is drawn such as to deplete it in 20hrs: it will give you 20hrs at constant current draw of 10A.

If you prorated both at the same hour rate, the one at 10hr has slightly greater AH rating. Reason: the larger the current drawn from a battery, the lower its capacity.
So the one rated 200AH at 10hr might have capacity of 220AH at 20hr.

Can you mix them?
Depend on how you want to mix them and on their respective age.
If the older one is still good you can mix but you must balance the mix by ensuring that all strings have same number of old and same number of new batteries. Add battery balancer to the setup to prevent sudden failure of the old ones.
In principle, we are advised not to mix old and new batteries.

wow! thanks for that wonderful explanation...

the "old" battery (200Ah @20hr) bank is not actually that old. it's just two weeks. just paralleled the new bank (200Ah @10hr) to it today

thanks...

sathob:
Well, great people of FTA, I think I should start this on behalf of George_D because of the request made by others who have expressed interest in alternate electricity, especially solar energy. Our FTA independence is not complete if we are to suffer frequent power outages and been dependant on the nation’s electricity grid system always. I have read in this house many times, from members “PHCN don go off, so I will track later when they come back”. No one can run away from power outages in the main electricity grid – not even the west, it happens. Hence, we all should have alternate electricity and using renewable energy is, to me, the best. This means one can enjoy their FTA fully by being totally free and not “dom” (dominated).

Look at some advantages
• Lower or no electricity bills
• Compared to generator users, there is no fuel cost and stress of getting it and no fumes.
• People living in the remote locations where power is unavailable or too expensive to hook-up too can have electricity.
Just to mention but a few.

Without going into detail, one can enjoy electricity by means of using solar energy (energy from the sun), wind mill (using energy from the wind). Don’t forget, where there is frequent electricity supply from the utility company, you can store some energy for back up.

You will need the following to complete a solar project or back up.

1. Solar panels
2. Power Inverter
3. Charge controller
4. Batteries to store energy
5. wires and cables
6. Monitors/meters

The solar panel consists of cells called photo voltaic cells and these, covert the energy received from the sun to electricity in simple terms (this electricity is a direct current
d.c). The panels can last up to 20 years plus. The panels can be fixed, adjustable or of the tracking type. You can decide to go for a complete panel from manufacturers (already made) or build panels by yourself using solar cells- the latter is for the hobbyist. The panels are rated in watts eg 80w solar panel supplying 12v continuous at a given time

The inverter
Power Inverters are available in 3 basic designs, two of which I remember very well now – the one that out sinusoidal waves and those that are modified sign wave type (meaning not pure sine waves and do have limits when it comes to its application) . The power inverter converts your storage battery power into the 240 volts AC that runs your appliances. It is the heart of your solar energy system. Unless you only run 12 volt DC appliances you will need a power inverter to supply your AC. This is just the basics.

The Charge Controller
A Charge Controller is necessary to protect the batteries from over charging and supply them with the proper amount of energy to promote long battery life.

Batteries
Without Storage Batteries to store energy you would only have power when the sun was shining. There is a lot more to batteries than just the ordinary car battery. Yo may need to change batteries over the years.

Wires and Cables
Without the right size of cables, you are likely to experience inefficient transfer of power (greater losses) and overheating.

Meters
This is required to monitor the performance of your solar system.

Firstly, it is very necessary to know what gadgets you will be using (eg.tv, sat. receiver) and how long you will use how long you would have them on the solar power and how much energy your battery can store and which solar panel (rating in power) will supply the required energy.

A lot goes into calculating the cost of setting up a solar system. First one has to consider the period of usable sunlight available at their location to do this calculation. For us here close to the equator, we get about 7 to 8 hours or more of sunlight during dry season, just a rough estimate.

How do I know I need 100w or 80w or 300 watts solar panel for my project?

The power consumption of appliances is given in Watts. To calculate the energy you will use over time, just multiply the power consumption by the hours of use.

Eg. If I have 90W tv set which I want to use for 6hrs, 25W satellite receiver for the same period, and a 50W fan for 3 hours. What will be the energy required from the solar panels for the period?

1. the energy for each appliance is Watts x time (hours) = Wh

So, the watt hours for the tv = 90 x 6 = 540 Wh (watt hours)

Watt hours for sat. receiver = 25 x 6 = 150 Wh

Watt hours for fan will be = 50 x 3 = 150 Wh

2. sum the watt hours for the individual appliances ie. 540 + 150 + 150 = 840 Wh (watt hours)

This means that the solar panel will need to supply 840 watt hours of energy to the battery each day to cover the total power required by these appliances.

3. since there are bound to be losses in the system However, to account for natural losses, we multiply the result by 1.2 (this factor allows for natural system losses, assuming 85% efficiency). Therefore, we will assume the panels will actually need to be able to supply a total of
840 x 1.2 = 1008Wh

4. so, to supply 1008Wh of energy the panel we assume to receive 7 hours of sunlight will be rated at 1008 Wh / 7 h = 144W
So, I will need 144W solar panel to supply energy to my appliances above at the given time.

Regarding point 3, it also means, if I have a solar panel rated at 100W receiving sunlight for 7 hours a day, the total energy supplied considering 85% efficiency will be 100x7x0.85= 595Wh and not 700Wh

5. Your battery should be able to store 1008Wh of energy. Since batteries capacities are rated in Ah (Ampere Hours) you need to multiply Ah by the Volt rating to know the Watt Hour. Power(W) = Voltage (V) x Current (I) ; Watt hour = VxIxHour

Therefore Ah (which is I x h) = Wh / V = 1008 / 12 (the number 12 represents a 12v battery)
= 84 Ah

So it means you will need not less than a 84Ah, 12V battery (deep-cycle batteries, not ordinary car batteries) to do the job.

NB. Another way of calculating battery capacity is explained in this example. Should my battery be rated at 84Ah, 12V the watt hour (energy) will be 84Ah x 12 V = 1008Ah

It implies that the battery can supply a 150watt appliance for 1008/70 = 14hours

Pls don’t just play around with batteries they are dangerous.

Since most of the battery are not allowed to drained down below half , and we needed 840watts to run our appliances do u think the power stored in the battery when converted will sufficient to take us to that 14hrs u specified in ur write up ?,I need more explanations please. I no,for sure voltage x Ah=watts which mean 12v x 84Ah =1008 watts, since most battery are not allow to drain bellow half when u divide 1008/2 then u are having less than the power needed 840, then I would like u to specify the actual size of bettery needed for 14hrs, and again u said we have 7-8 sun hour here in nigeria ,what of if at time we don't have up to that 7-8 sun hours can we be sure of our battery charging up to 100% that we take us to that 14hrs u specified? Pls sorry I want to lean. Sorry if I may ask, what Ah will the 144w solar panel be imputing into the battery per hour? Because I want to calculate the exact hours my 84Ah battery will take to charge to 100%

Barezzi:
Is there anyone in this honorable house that sells a victron energy "VE direct to USB interface cable"?

I have a compatible one for 9k just one left though ( Fangpusun)

efuro:
Hello House
My inverter waste much of my precious battery power.

It’s my belief that DC watt is 92% of AC watt and current stays same whether DC or AC.
Can someone help with explanation why my inverter draws so much juice just to produce so little. For instance, it draws 11.60A@307W DC to produce 1.47A@247W AC to power load (of a Deep Freezer, 32” LCD + 2 Decoders, Newclime Ceiling Fan).
See readings at 8.59AM this morning.
For the time being, I installed DC watt meter at output of my Battery Bank and another just before my CC to read-off harvest directly. While AC watt meter to monitor my AC loads.

An experienced explanation will do my nerves good.
Thanks
(Meanwhile, my inverter idle state is just 27.7w and has good surge allowance when fridge and freezer compressor kicks.)

which inverter?

Pls why did u use 70 at d end oof ur calculation to get the total number of hours d battery can last

sathob:
Well, great people of FTA, I think I should start this on behalf of George_D because of the request made by others who have expressed interest in alternate electricity, especially solar energy. Our FTA independence is not complete if we are to suffer frequent power outages and been dependant on the nation’s electricity grid system always. I have read in this house many times, from members “PHCN don go off, so I will track later when they come back”. No one can run away from power outages in the main electricity grid – not even the west, it happens. Hence, we all should have alternate electricity and using renewable energy is, to me, the best. This means one can enjoy their FTA fully by being totally free and not “dom” (dominated).

Look at some advantages
• Lower or no electricity bills
• Compared to generator users, there is no fuel cost and stress of getting it and no fumes.
• People living in the remote locations where power is unavailable or too expensive to hook-up too can have electricity.
Just to mention but a few.

Without going into detail, one can enjoy electricity by means of using solar energy (energy from the sun), wind mill (using energy from the wind). Don’t forget, where there is frequent electricity supply from the utility company, you can store some energy for back up.

You will need the following to complete a solar project or back up.

1. Solar panels
2. Power Inverter
3. Charge controller
4. Batteries to store energy
5. wires and cables
6. Monitors/meters

The solar panel consists of cells called photo voltaic cells and these, covert the energy received from the sun to electricity in simple terms (this electricity is a direct current
d.c). The panels can last up to 20 years plus. The panels can be fixed, adjustable or of the tracking type. You can decide to go for a complete panel from manufacturers (already made) or build panels by yourself using solar cells- the latter is for the hobbyist. The panels are rated in watts eg 80w solar panel supplying 12v continuous at a given time

The inverter
Power Inverters are available in 3 basic designs, two of which I remember very well now – the one that out sinusoidal waves and those that are modified sign wave type (meaning not pure sine waves and do have limits when it comes to its application) . The power inverter converts your storage battery power into the 240 volts AC that runs your appliances. It is the heart of your solar energy system. Unless you only run 12 volt DC appliances you will need a power inverter to supply your AC. This is just the basics.

The Charge Controller
A Charge Controller is necessary to protect the batteries from over charging and supply them with the proper amount of energy to promote long battery life.

Batteries
Without Storage Batteries to store energy you would only have power when the sun was shining. There is a lot more to batteries than just the ordinary car battery. Yo may need to change batteries over the years.

Wires and Cables
Without the right size of cables, you are likely to experience inefficient transfer of power (greater losses) and overheating.

Meters
This is required to monitor the performance of your solar system.

Firstly, it is very necessary to know what gadgets you will be using (eg.tv, sat. receiver) and how long you will use how long you would have them on the solar power and how much energy your battery can store and which solar panel (rating in power) will supply the required energy.

A lot goes into calculating the cost of setting up a solar system. First one has to consider the period of usable sunlight available at their location to do this calculation. For us here close to the equator, we get about 7 to 8 hours or more of sunlight during dry season, just a rough estimate.

How do I know I need 100w or 80w or 300 watts solar panel for my project?

The power consumption of appliances is given in Watts. To calculate the energy you will use over time, just multiply the power consumption by the hours of use.

Eg. If I have 90W tv set which I want to use for 6hrs, 25W satellite receiver for the same period, and a 50W fan for 3 hours. What will be the energy required from the solar panels for the period?

1. the energy for each appliance is Watts x time (hours) = Wh

So, the watt hours for the tv = 90 x 6 = 540 Wh (watt hours)

Watt hours for sat. receiver = 25 x 6 = 150 Wh

Watt hours for fan will be = 50 x 3 = 150 Wh

2. sum the watt hours for the individual appliances ie. 540 + 150 + 150 = 840 Wh (watt hours)

This means that the solar panel will need to supply 840 watt hours of energy to the battery each day to cover the total power required by these appliances.

3. since there are bound to be losses in the system However, to account for natural losses, we multiply the result by 1.2 (this factor allows for natural system losses, assuming 85% efficiency). Therefore, we will assume the panels will actually need to be able to supply a total of
840 x 1.2 = 1008Wh

4. so, to supply 1008Wh of energy the panel we assume to receive 7 hours of sunlight will be rated at 1008 Wh / 7 h = 144W
So, I will need 144W solar panel to supply energy to my appliances above at the given time.

Regarding point 3, it also means, if I have a solar panel rated at 100W receiving sunlight for 7 hours a day, the total energy supplied considering 85% efficiency will be 100x7x0.85= 595Wh and not 700Wh

5. Your battery should be able to store 1008Wh of energy. Since batteries capacities are rated in Ah (Ampere Hours) you need to multiply Ah by the Volt rating to know the Watt Hour. Power(W) = Voltage (V) x Current (I) ; Watt hour = VxIxHour

Therefore Ah (which is I x h) = Wh / V = 1008 / 12 (the number 12 represents a 12v battery)
= 84 Ah

So it means you will need not less than a 84Ah, 12V battery (deep-cycle batteries, not ordinary car batteries) to do the job.

NB. Another way of calculating battery capacity is explained in this example. Should my battery be rated at 84Ah, 12V the watt hour (energy) will be 84Ah x 12 V = 1008Ah

It implies that the battery can supply a 150watt appliance for 1008/70 = 14hours

Pls don’t just play around with batteries they are dangerous.

The 20hr or 10hr just means that it is discharged to 1.75V per cell over a period of 20 hours or 10 hours while the total amp hour supplied is measured. But this does not mean a 20hour rated battery is necessarily better than a 10hour rated battery.

Example; Rolls Surrette S-605 L16 Battery is rated at 100hr for 605AH, 20 hr at 468AH and at 10hr for 398AH. Note that this the same battery, the only thing that changed here is the load that was used to discharge the battery.

So the numbers can make a battery look better if a 100 hr rating is given for a particular battery.

Because of the Peukert effect, batteries turn to deliver more AH if they are discharged slowly (low amperage draw) and lower AH if discharged fast (High average draw). So a 200AH at 10hr, may be better than a 200AH at 20hr.

mcTrinity:
please gurus, what's the difference between battery rated @20hr and the one rated @10hr..

Installed a battery rated @20hr... wanted to upgrade the battery bank and I got the same battery but this one now is rated @10hr. both 12v 200Ah.SAME BRAND!

what's the difference? can they be mixed

Thanks

JUO:
I have a compatible one for 9k just one left though ( Fangpusun)

Happy birthday Juo!
I'll call you later today.

mcTrinity:
please gurus, what's the difference between battery rated @20hr and the one rated @10hr..

Installed a battery rated @20hr... wanted to upgrade the battery bank and I got the same battery but this one now is rated @10hr. both 12v 200Ah.SAME BRAND!

what's the difference? can they be mixed

Thanks

I think if they are both 200ah capacity, then the one of 10hr rating is better..based on the link below.

http://gbindustrialbattery.com/Forklift_Battery_Sizes_and_Specifications_Zone15.html

Refa:
The 20hr or 10hr just means that it is discharged to 1.75V per cell over a period of 20 hours or 10 hours while the total amp hour supplied is measured. But this does not mean a 20hour rated battery is necessarily better than a 10hour rated battery.

Example; Rolls Surrette S-605 L16 Battery is rated at 100hr for 605AH, 20 hr at 468AH and at 10hr for 398AH. Note that this the same battery, the only thing that changed here is the load that was used to discharge the battery.

So the numbers can be may look better if a 100 hr rating is given for a particular battery.

Because of the Peukert effect, batteries turn to deliver more AH if they are discharged slowly (low amperage draw) and lower AH if discharged fast (High average draw). So a 200AH at 10hr, may be better than a 200AH at 20hr.

refa,
you're very much on point. and that has been my beef with the trojan ind-17 6v battery being sold by solarshop:

http://www.solarshopnigeria.com/homepage/trojan-ind17-6-industrial-line-flooded-lead-acid-battery-1202ah.html

on the surface, it looks robust with a high amp-hour rating of 1202ah but on careful examination, this rating is
based on 100 hours. the question then is: why this deliberate deception? and for a price tag of 535k?

SolnergyPower:
Good day friends.

Do you have experience with FELICITY INVERTERS, how efficient are their inverters?

Thank you.

I did a short review of Felicity Solar Inverter. You can check it on the link attached to my signature

Thank you so much sir. I learnt a whole lot from there!

The review was very impressive, the only thing that now dampens my interest is when the inverter is OFF, there isn't charging nor current by-pass!

Below is the link to the Felicity inverters review by bigbrovar, you will definitely learn a lot about Felicity inverters...

http://bobby.com.ng/2017/06/28/felicity-inverter-a-short-review/



(

bigbrovar:


I did a short review of Felicity Solar Inverter. You can check it on the link attached to my signature

efuro:
Hello House
My inverter waste much of my precious battery power.

It’s my belief that DC watt is 92% of AC watt and current stays same whether DC or AC.
Can someone help with explanation why my inverter draws so much juice just to produce so little. For instance, it draws 11.60A@307W DC to produce 1.47A@247W AC to power load (of a Deep Freezer, 32” LCD + 2 Decoders, Newclime Ceiling Fan).
See readings at 8.59AM this morning.
For the time being, I installed DC watt meter at output of my Battery Bank and another just before my CC to read-off harvest directly. While AC watt meter to monitor my AC loads.

An experienced explanation will do my nerves good.
Thanks
(Meanwhile, my inverter idle state is just 27.7w and has good surge allowance when fridge and freezer compressor kicks.)

Name of your inverter. From what you have posted it seem your inverter uses between 100w / 110w for idle load which is very high but not unexpected with some inverters

Barezzi:

Happy birthday Juo!
I'll call you later today.

thanks

Good day gurus, please I want to know if I'm on the right track. I have a 2KVA inverter, 2 * 200AH 12v battery already installed and working well but I want to add solar panels. I don't have the money to acquire everything at once but been able to get a few.
1, 60 amp 24v mppt charge controller
2, 2* 250watt mono solar modules and I intend getting 2 more 250 watts mono solar modules to make it 1000 watts. Am I on the right track?

efuro:
Hello House
My inverter waste much of my precious battery power.

It’s my belief that DC watt is 92% of AC watt and current stays same whether DC or AC.
Can someone help with explanation why my inverter draws so much juice just to produce so little. For instance, it draws 11.60A@307W DC to produce 1.47A@247W AC to power load (of a Deep Freezer, 32” LCD + 2 Decoders, Newclime Ceiling Fan).
See readings at 8.59AM this morning.
For the time being, I installed DC watt meter at output of my Battery Bank and another just before my CC to read-off harvest directly. While AC watt meter to monitor my AC loads.

An experienced explanation will do my nerves good.
Thanks
(Meanwhile, my inverter idle state is just 27.7w and has good surge allowance when fridge and freezer compressor kicks.)

I think the difference could be accounted for by the energy consumption of the inverter itself. It is an electrical appliance and will consume energy to drive its energy conversion circuitry, mostly via losses.

GeorgeD1:


refa,
you're very much on point. and that has been my beef with the trojan ind-17 6v battery being sold by solarshop:

http://www.solarshopnigeria.com/homepage/trojan-ind17-6-industrial-line-flooded-lead-acid-battery-1202ah.html

on the surface, it looks robust with a high amp-hour rating of 1202ah but on careful examination, this rating is
based on 100 hours. the question then is: why this deliberate deception? and for a price tag of 535k?

I've checked many forklift battery sellers in the US over the years and they tend to advertise those batteries at their 100HR rating, God knows why. The Trojan IND17-6 sold by Trojan essentially belongs to that category. And Trojan is an American company.

It's rated 925AH at its 20-HR rate. Trojan initially did that with its L16 batteries too before changing the electrolyte composition and increasing the thickness of the plates so the 100HR rating value became the 20HR rating value. I think that was done in response to negative criticism.

BTW, the J200-RE and the J185P are essentially the same battery once more with a change in plate thickness and electrolyte composition. Well, they've added their patented SmartCarbon too, to increase performance under partial-state-of-charge.

dejavumart3d:
Pls why did u use 70 at d end oof ur calculation to get the total number of hours d battery can last

Good day my brother in the house, sathob could u pls calculate the solar panel That can charge my 200Ah battery to 100% in 3hours sun light as we cannot predict the whether condition here in our land and could u pls also tell me when exactly is the sun peak hour here in lagos, and bear in mind that I don't allow my battery to go down more than halfway. Thanks and God bless u

Very Nice review. Thumbs up

bigbrovar:


I did a short review of Felicity Solar Inverter. You can check it on the link attached to my signature

GeorgeD1:


refa,
you're very much on point. and that has been my beef with the trojan ind-17 6v battery being sold by solarshop:

http://www.solarshopnigeria.com/homepage/trojan-ind17-6-industrial-line-flooded-lead-acid-battery-1202ah.html

on the surface, it looks robust with a high amp-hour rating of 1202ah but on careful examination, this rating is
based on 100 hours. the question then is: why this deliberate deception? and for a price tag of 535k?

Seems Solarshop has updated that link to reflect the C100 rating...

richard69:
Good day gurus, please I want to know if I'm on the right track. I have a 2KVA inverter, 2 * 200AH 12v battery already installed and working well but I want to add solar panels. I don't have the money to acquire everything at once but been able to get a few.
1, 60 amp 24v mppt charge controller
2, 2* 250watt mono solar modules and I intend getting 2 more 250 watts mono solar modules to make it 1000 watts. Am I on the right track?

That would depend on your load. I started solar journey with just 2 panels. But because I had my energy audit right I was able to use it well and ensure I don't cycle my battery below 30% depth of discharge. It has been said many times in this thread. The most important and cheapest activity you need do before u by a single component is an audit. It might sound boring but when u do it. You will be glad you did. So do an audit and come back to ask same question.

trewbless:

Good day my brother in the house, sathob could u pls calculate the solar panel That can charge my 200Ah battery to 100% in 3hours sun light as we cannot predict the whether condition here in our land and could u pls also tell me when exactly is the sun peak hour here in lagos, and bear in mind that I don't allow my battery to go down more than halfway. Thanks and God bless u

It's simple.. from my experience.. panels only produce average of 3 to 5 times it's Capacity in Lagos..

200 * 12 / 3
2400w / 3 thats 800Watts
So 600watts is recommended.. for 24V system multiply by 2 1200W

trewbless:

Good day my brother in the house, sathob could u pls calculate the solar panel That can charge my 200Ah battery to 100% in 3hours sun light as we cannot predict the whether condition here in our land and could u pls also tell me when exactly is the sun peak hour here in lagos, and bear in mind that I don't allow my battery to go down more than halfway. Thanks and God bless u

It's never advisable to charge your battery full within 3 hours,
You would shorten the battery life by doing this,
Such kind of practice makes the battery very hot!

Now for the maths class :
A 12v 200ah battery converted to watt-hour = 12x200 = 2400Wh
Its is advisable to charge the battery with 10% - at most 18% of it's ah rating,
Meaning 10% - 200ah/20a = 10 hours,
And 18% - 200ah/36a = 5 1/2 hours,

So for your 3 hours super charging,
That would be 200ah/3h = 67a charging current,
That would be 33.5% charging current as regard to the battery rating,

This won't only heat up your battery but also make it to swell/burge thereby shorten the battery life, in short, you just want to murder the poor battery,

Hopefully the ban autobot don't ban the message,
As the autobot failed maths class during it's early days!

Bulbs 56 watts, fan 65 watts tv60 watts decoder 20 watts let's say 250watt in total and would want it to last for at least 8 hours daily.

bigrovar:

That would depend on your load. I started solar journey with just 2 panels. But because I had my energy audit right I was able to use it well and ensure I don't cycle my battery below 30% depth of discharge. It has been said many times in this thread. The most important and cheapest activity you need do before u by a single component is an audit. It might sound boring but when u do it. You will be glad you did. So do an audit and come back to ask same question.

I intend setting up a stand alone solar powered freezer at home which will run on an inverter,battery and solar panel (off grid)

I will like the freezer to run at least minimum of 6-7 hrs daily to keep food fresh

I will prefer a small chest freezer of 100 litres or lesser (chest freezer only)

I will like a small chest freezer with a rated power consumption of 60 watts

What kind of inverter will be best for it 500 watts,1kv or higher,pure sinewave or modified

I have attached a picture of the freezer i will like below.The kind i want,even a smaller one will be nice as long as it meets with my specs.

Can i get a small chest freezer of such capacity?

Please advice

Feshizzy:


It's never advisable to charge your battery full within 3 hours,
You would shorten the battery life by doing this,
Such kind of practice makes the battery very hot!

Now for the maths class :
A 12v 200ah battery converted to watt-hour = 12x200 = 2400Wh
Its is advisable to charge the battery with 10% - at most 18% of it's ah rating,
Meaning 10% - 200ah/20a = 10 hours,
And 18% - 200ah/36a = 5 1/2 hours,

So for your 3 hours super charging,
That would be 200ah/3h = 67a charging current,
That would be 33.5% charging current as regard to the battery rating,

This won't only heat up your battery but also make it to swell/burge thereby shorten the battery life, in short, you just want to murder the poor battery,

Hopefully the ban autobot don't ban the message,
As the autobot failed maths class during it's early days!

Thank you very much am satisfied with ur explanation, good work.

GeorgeD, you are spot on. That battery is rated 925AH @ C20. The 20 hour rating is appropriate for solar applications since this mimics closely the duty cycle of the batteries in solar applications. Some manufacturers even use the 24 hour rating for batteries that are targeted towards the solar market. 100hr and 5hr rating are typically given for industrial applications, the 5 hour rating is used in industrial applications (Forklifts, aerial lifts, and floor sweepers), since they are only used in an 8 hour shift.


The Trojan Ind-17

GeorgeD1:


refa,
you're very much on point. and that has been my beef with the trojan ind-17 6v battery being sold by solarshop:

http://www.solarshopnigeria.com/homepage/trojan-ind17-6-industrial-line-flooded-lead-acid-battery-1202ah.html

on the surface, it looks robust with a high amp-hour rating of 1202ah but on careful examination, this rating is
based on 100 hours. the question then is: why this deliberate deception? and for a price tag of 535k?