mybad:
Hello House,

The experience of the rainy season has been terrible,
Having caused flood (storm water) in my compound.
I've decided to do a drainage system to stall further occurence.

I don't however have an idea of how to design this.
How to get seives for the drainage points like in the picture below especially, is a mystery.

I'll appreciate the expert advise from nairalanders to lay the challenge to rest.

. And you think putting those will serve your purpose? Is there any existing drainage outside your compound?
I am certain you already know why storm water settles in your compound and takes time to flow out naturally or penetrate into the earth easily.

erico2k2:

hmm i will take laminated wood over sprayed wood all day reason, laminating material is like shiny glossy plastic, the kind of stuff used i n coating wooden floors.water cant get in.

would appreciate if you can post a picture of this wooded panel ...i dislike hving cables running over the living room

bixton:
. Very interesting views...............if you're using the same mix ratio when stone dust is an aggregate and 3/4 granite as aggregate too in serving the same purpose then that's where you need to check your ratio.
I quoted your post based on your choice of words/terms (cost---cheap---comparison).
Engineering principles are applied to commercial purposes for economic benefits on the long term purposes.
Costing of projects are done based on finances of client and availability of readily available materials within the immediate environment of project.

Am struggling to get ur point

earthrealm:


would appreciate if you can post a picture of this wooded panel ...i dislike hving cables running over the living room

The skirting boards? here go

Daboomb:



At the highlighted.

Did you just do a 'copy & paste' or where is the White men number and price list you referred to?

Mistake?

sorry it was a network problem

44chux:


Am struggling to get ur point

you complain about faults in your work. What mix ratio did you use in your block moulding when using stone and sharp sand and what mix ratio did you use in casting your tank stand?

44chux:

You can google wooden baseboard or wall skirtings for pictures.

Done by same carpenters that do interior decor and kitchen cabinets.

Older designs used to be popular with court houses, legislative chambers and the alters of some pentecostal churches and some hotels back in the day (they called it mansonia panelling) so its not new. Only the designs were modenised

Oh I thought you're talking of wooden for courtyard floor instead of stamp concrete, of course interior wooden floor decorative are always better if one can afford it. I have seen many beautiful locally made designs SKIMANSKI display here every time. Very, very, talented pay attention to details workers that guy was blessed with.

This is very interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbjNo_G-3n8&t=5s

desiji:
This is very interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbjNo_G-3n8&t=5s

I watched it a while back. Very repeatable model but the government won't listen.

I will be grateful if I could get some advise regarding the following please.
The building is four flats of 3 bedroom flats (the usual two flats up and two flats down) located in Sango, Ota Ogun State.

(1) How many bags of cement roughly will be required to plaster the interior, and labour cost?
(2) How many bags of cement roughly will be required to plaster the interior ceiling (ground floor only), and labour cost?
(3) How many bags of cement to plaster the inside of the boundary wall/fence (wall surrounds two plots), and labour cost?
(4) Balancing cost and durability, what kind of surfacing should I do for the compound? I do not need anything fanciful, just something practical, durable and best value for money.
(5) What size septic tank will I require and roughly how much will that cost?

Thank you.

nabiz:
sorry it was a network problem

No problem and thanks for re-attaching it.

I observed that the first item, (for example), will cost you, an installer who uses large volume of the product and hence will buy bigger quantities, #19,000, while your individual client whom you send to the place to buy his/her own individual requirement, will pay #24,500 for the same Unit price!
Same thing goes for all the other products.
Why would a Customer go and buy directly from the supplier, if it will cost him more, than them paying you for the same unit item?


So, you asking them to go to the Supplier DIRECTLY, is not really an 'act of altruism' (show of transparency) but it is because you know that it will cost them more and therefore not economically viable for them to do so.

You even mentioned provision of Compactor, as one of the things such client must provide to you as 'materials'!

My own personal opinion on issues like this is that the Installer should not always DIRECTLY EQUATE HIGH PRICE to QUALITY of his Services.
Your goal is to always try and see how you can provide same 'high quality', at COMPETITIVE PRICES.

MTN once told us it costs#45 to make a voice call, back then when they were enjoying a sort of monopoly. they told us it cant be cheaper.
But fast-forward a few months later when other competitors entered the market, we all saw that it could actually be achieved for #15.

Good/High quality Service should not be a license to exploit Customers, if it can be avoided.

Having said that, l think one option you may explore, is that of "segmenting" your Customers.
The High Net-worth Customers who can easily afford and dont give a darn about Price, should be allowed and encouraged to pay the "Big man price" while the 'kobo-kobo Customers' who want the same service should be availed of such discounted prices.
That way, you get more jobs to do and make more money from the principle of 'economies of scale'.

Okay, just dont mind me, na small boys dey worry me.

Good evening house!Please i need the name and price of a very good paint i can use for my parents house.A minor renovation work ongoing .Paint should be good but pocket friendly.(Recession thingz)

Daboomb:


My own personal opinion on issues like this is that the Installer should not always DIRECTLY EQUATE HIGH PRICE to QUALITY of his Services.
Your goal is to always try and see how you can provide same 'high quality', at COMPETITIVE PRICES.

Gbam.

[img]https://media./images/0b4f613d993892bf70f6d159c533e52f/tenor.gif[/img]

I hope sellers on this forum are reading this.

rabcnesbit:
I will be grateful if I could get some advise regarding the following please.
The building is four flats of 3 bedroom flats (the usual two flats up and two flats down) located in Sango, Ota Ogun State.

(1) How many bags of cement roughly will be required to plaster the interior, and labour cost?
(2) How many bags of cement roughly will be required to plaster the interior ceiling (ground floor only), and labour cost?
(3) How many bags of cement to plaster the inside of the boundary wall/fence (wall surrounds two plots), and labour cost?
(4) Balancing cost and durability, what kind of surfacing should I do for the compound? I do not need anything fanciful, just something practical, durable and best value for money.
(5) What size septic tank will I require and roughly how much will that cost?

Thank you.

. Can you give the area of coverage of respective sections you want to effect plastering?
Such apartments may require a separate septic and soak away pit which usually depends on land space/availability. More so is there an existing drainage close to the facility?

erico2k2:

The skirting boards? here go

hmmmm, dont reLLY understand how it works..guess maybe if i see a b4 and after picture.....
was expecting a recess..enclosed by a wooden panel..wch could be opened and cables..usually for electronics routed through the recess and then covered by the wooden skirting board.....perjaps i misunderstood the whole concept

earthrealm:



hmmmm, dont reLLY understand how it works..guess maybe if i see a b4 and after picture.....
was expecting a recess..enclosed by a wooden panel..wch could be opened and cables..usually for electronics routed through the recess and then covered by the wooden skirting board.....perjaps i misunderstood the whole concept

That would be wooden panels on walls thats different from skirting board,this is replace with tiles in Nigeria.But this is wood, you can work cables into it,depends on your design,you can have a grove into it in front or behind.

bixton:
. Can you give the area of coverage of respective sections you want to effect plastering?
Such apartments may require a separate septic and soak away pit which usually depends on land space/availability. More so is there an existing drainage close to the facility?

Hello. The plot itself is 40m x 40m x 72.61m x 75.68m. I do not have the measurements for the individual sections of the building, but is a standard 4 flats (two flats up and two flats down), with each flat made up of 3 bedrooms with master bedroom being en suite, 1 bathroom/toilet, 1 visitor's toilet, living/dining room, kitchen, and small store. I am not after an accurate figure, just an estimate so that I have an idea of what it should be and thus not exploited by the artisans.

With regards to existing drainage, I am not too sure, but it is on a street with other residential buildings, and having residential buildings either side of the plot.

With regards to the septic tank and soak away pit, below is the plan with area for both indicated by the red arrow. Thank you

bixton:
. And you think putting those will serve your purpose? Is there any existing drainage outside your compound?
I am certain you already know why storm water settles in your compound and takes time to flow out naturally or penetrate into the earth easily.

I intend to do that alongside the drainage.
I've thought of a locally fabricated drainge that can serve same purpose.

mybad:


I intend to do that alongside the drainage.
I've thought of a locally fabricated drainge that can serve same purpose.

. Good. But it will be better if you can get the services of an engineer/artisan on site to take a look at it to profer best suitable way to treat the problem. And while doing that also make sure that the intended constructed drainage is done in a way so that while storm water is taken out of the compound it also does not take in storm water in too. My second option is quite expensive to handle and it's only applicable in a fresh project in controlled environments who intends to use storm water for other economical purposes.

rabcnesbit:


Hello. The plot itself is 40m x 40m x 72.61m x 75.68m. I do not have the measurements for the individual sections of the building, but is a standard 4 flats (two flats up and two flats down), with each flat made up of 3 bedrooms with master bedroom being en suite, 1 bathroom/toilet, 1 visitor's toilet, living/dining room, kitchen, and small store. I am not after an accurate figure, just an estimate so that I have an idea of what it should be and thus not exploited by the artisans.

With regards to existing drainage, I am not too sure, but it is on a street with other residential buildings, and having residential buildings either side of the plot.

With regards to the septic tank and soak away pit, below is the plan with area for both indicated by the red arrow. Thank you

. It all depends on how you intend to give out the plastering work(plastering/rendering/dressing).
A partition to be worked upon by an artisan ranges from #1500-#2500(min-max) depending on how you bargain which also depends on either the client is paying the labour by him/herself separately or the artisan handles that payment completely.
If there is an existing drainage that actually flows, outside your compound or close by you can channel all waste water(kitchen,laundry,bathing) to it and build only that which will hold the waste from toilet. For only toilet waste you can use 3ft X 8ft. But if your doing both soakaway/septic as single unit, you can do 6ft X 12ft.

desiji:
This is very interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbjNo_G-3n8&t=5s

If you can guarantee the end users will not use the acs then your system is sustainable.

The bane of any inverter powered system is high current loads like acs, kettles, irons and to a lesser extent fridges and freezers. Led luminaires, and electronics can run on a system for extended periods

The other issue is the batteries which must be replaced every two years or so. It is a very bad issue in Nigeria as every Tom dick and Harry (even the big names) are selling batteries of dubious quality. A used battery is often in the exact same physical condition as a new battery. Others have packaged 100 ah batteries as 200ah batteries.

I have seen working systems involving outback inverters and batteries, but while the work was fantastic the cost was prohibitive. I do not know if this was the reality or the Nigerian I must hammer 1000% return on investment immediately.

oyb:


If you can guarantee the end users will not use the acs then your system is sustainable.

The bane of any inverter powered system is high current loads like acs, kettles, irons and to a lesser extent fridges and freezers. Led luminaires, and electronics can run on a system for extended periods

The other issue is the batteries which must be replaced every two years or so. It is a very bad issue in Nigeria as every Tom dick and Harry (even the big names) are selling batteries of dubious quality. A used battery is often in the exact same physical condition as a new battery. Others have packaged 100 ah batteries as 200ah batteries.

I have seen working systems involving outback inverters and batteries, but while the work was fantastic the cost was prohibitive. I do not know if this was the reality or the Nigerian I must hammer 1000% return on investment immediately.

Daboomb:




No problem and thanks for re-attaching it.

I observed that the first item, (for example), will cost you, an installer who uses large volume of the product and hence will buy bigger quantities, #19,000, while your individual client whom you send to the place to buy his/her own individual requirement, will pay #24,500 for the same Unit price!
Same thing goes for all the other products.
Why would a Customer go and buy directly from the supplier, if it will cost him more, than them paying you for the same unit item?


So, you asking them to go to the Supplier DIRECTLY, is not really an 'act of altruism' (show of transparency) but it is because you know that it will cost them more and therefore not economically viable for them to do so.

You even mentioned provision of Compactor, as one of the things such client must provide to you as 'materials'!

My own personal opinion on issues like this is that the Installer should not always DIRECTLY EQUATE HIGH PRICE to QUALITY of his Services.
Your goal is to always try and see how you can provide same 'high quality', at COMPETITIVE PRICES.

MTN once told us it costs#45 to make a voice call, back then when they were enjoying a sort of monopoly. they told us it cant be cheaper.
But fast-forward a few months later when other competitors entered the market, we all saw that it could actually be achieved for #15.

Good/High quality Service should not be a license to exploit Customers, if it can be avoided.

Having said that, l think one option you may explore, is that of "segmenting" your Customers.
The High Net-worth Customers who can easily afford and dont give a darn about Price, should be allowed and encouraged to pay the "Big man price" while the 'kobo-kobo Customers' who want the same service should be availed of such discounted prices.
That way, you get more jobs to do and make more money from the principle of 'economies of scale'.

Okay, just dont mind me, na small boys dey worry me.

That was s wonderful repply from you sir which we so much appreciate. Sir, from the repply it seems you misinterpret the price list table arrangment l.

The price list i posted is we the installer. The company normally give we the installer little discount believing we will always come back to do business with them unlike you a house owner, so it is left for to tell them wether you are a house owner or installer because the word installer is no written at our face. So tell the man that you an installer or a contractor he will give you the same price with me.


Another thing you misunderstand from the table is that word "installer" on the table. The wrote to tell us that that is the price he sale to we the installer.

The price change you is based on the qauntity you are buying and not based on wether you are an istaller or not so have still attached the price list below so you can revisit it for a better understanding and i pray u understand. What the man means is that for instant, if you are buying from 1 to 25 bags, he will sell to you at #24,500 per bag, if you are buying from 26 to 50 bags, he will sell to u at #21,500 per bag etc.

oyb:


If you can guarantee the end users will not use the acs then your system is sustainable.

The bane of any inverter powered system is high current loads like acs, kettles, irons and to a lesser extent fridges and freezers. Led luminaires, and electronics can run on a system for extended periods

The other issue is the batteries which must be replaced every two years or so. It is a very bad issue in Nigeria as every Tom dick and Harry (even the big names) are selling batteries of dubious quality. A used battery is often in the exact same physical condition as a new battery. Others have packaged 100 ah batteries as 200ah batteries.

I have seen working systems involving outback inverters and batteries, but while the work was fantastic the cost was prohibitive. I do not know if this was the reality or the Nigerian I must hammer 1000% return on investment immediately.

If you really watch the Video to the end you will get, where he said they went for the best Electronics in the market i.e the A/C are also inverter A/C which dosen't need a high percentage of starting current and runs at 30% lesser current than the normal A/C which are being sold and if some people could remember, i have always being an advocate of buying the A++ Electronics which are more current friendly and dosen't too much power.
Where i am at there is a revolution going now with the highest grade of going green from The tiniest Electronics to the high ends one. if like i said we keep on following the status quo will we never get anything done. we that know better should be the one's Leading and let other follow.
I know for sure that if the people see and know how viable this system are they will quickly join but you have a point of this get rich quick method of the sellers selling inferior and not qualitive things to people thereby making a mockery of what could have been a movement.

About batteries if they are not drained too deep it could last more than 5 to 7years

desiji:

If you really watch the Video to the end you will get, where he said they went for the best Electronics in the market i.e the A/C are also inverter A/C which dosen't need a high percentage of starting current and runs at 30% lesser current than the normal A/C which are being sold and if some people could remember, i have always being an advocate of buying the A++ Electronics which are more current friendly and dosen't too much power.
Where i am at there is a revolution going now with the highest grade of going green from The tiniest Electronics to the high ends one. if like i said we keep on following the status quo will we never get anything done. we that know better should be the one's Leading and let other follow.
I know for sure that if the people see and know how viable this system are they will quickly join but you have a point of this get rich quick method of the sellers selling inferior and not qualitive things to people thereby making a mockery of what could have been a movement.

I've been silently watching auctions on military grade solar batteries. These are fail safe batteries which costs taxpayers a fortune but they have a rotational cycle of only 2 years.

I have a friend that was lucky to get some out of Hawaii. He is a techie and he rants and raves about their capacity.

Anyways, like you said, the good products are out there but our fellow citizens have managed to dilute the "movement". One of my retirement business models is selling/installing solars. I've been doing a fair amount of research and just not sure if the populace is ready to embrace the eye popping cost of the good stuff. Some will but I want to follow the Walmart business model. Sell a lot for less.

Egun we are on the same wavelength

44chux:
.

Using 4mm cable for sockets and 2.5mm for lighting and 35mm amoured for supply resulting in cost of 3.3mil for a 4bed duplex ...

I hate to say I told you so, but...I told u so (even though you were blessing my akkant)
Definitely an Overkill... But on the flip side, you're in the ultimate safe position. all your cables will be on paid vacation for the rest of thier life... Just "chilling"

bixton:
. It all depends on how you intend to give out the plastering work(plastering/rendering/dressing).
A partition to be worked upon by an artisan ranges from #1500-#2500(min-max) depending on how you bargain which also depends on either the client is paying the labour by him/herself separately or the artisan handles that payment completely.
If there is an existing drainage that actually flows, outside your compound or close by you can channel all waste water(kitchen,laundry,bathing) to it and build only that which will hold the waste from toilet. For only toilet waste you can use 3ft X 8ft. But if your doing both soakaway/septic as single unit, you can do 6ft X 12ft.

Hello, thank you for your advice. I am most grateful. You did not advise as to number of bags of cement that will be required. Also, what are the pros and cons of doing soakaway/septic as single unit as opposed to separate units (ie. which is better)? Also, channelling the waste water (from kitchen,laundry, bathing) to any existing drainage, is that legal, and will that lead to any potential problems in future? Many thanks

desiji:
This is very interesting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbjNo_G-3n8&t=5s

How simple and down to earth the developer (Suleiman Yusuf) comes across, and also well spoken. No arrogance or vulgar ostentatious display of 'wealth'!

desiji:

If you really watch the Video to the end you will get, where he said they went for the best Electronics in the market i.e the A/C are also inverter A/C which dosen't need a high percentage of starting current and runs at 30% lesser current than the normal A/C which are being sold and if some people could remember, i have always being an advocate of buying the A++ Electronics which are more current friendly and dosen't too much power.
Where i am at there is a revolution going now with the highest grade of going green from The tiniest Electronics to the high ends one. if like i said we keep on following the status quo will we never get anything done. we that know better should be the one's Leading and let other follow.
I know for sure that if the people see and know how viable this system are they will quickly join but you have a point of this get rich quick method of the sellers selling inferior and not qualitive things to people thereby making a mockery of what could have been a movement.

Because it is not easy to get A++ appliances in Nigeria. Our regulators do not mandate appliance importers and manufacturers to include energy ratings in their products and as such it is very hard to know how energy efficient whatever appliance you are getting really is.

When I started my journey to renewable energy about 2 years ago, I went out of my way to ensure the appliances I got for the house had good energy star rating. It was a very stressful experience. What makes things even worse was how hard it is to even get the power consumption of devices sold in Nigeria. Even on the major e-retailers from Jumia to Konga, very few items have watt consumption has part of their specifications. I had to make do with taking a watt meter with me to any mall to physically check watt consumption before I make any purchase. Its that bad

desiji:

If you really watch the Video to the end you will get, where he said they went for the best Electronics in the market i.e the A/C are also inverter A/C which dosen't need a high percentage of starting current and runs at 30% lesser current than the normal A/C which are being sold and if some people could remember, i have always being an advocate of buying the A++ Electronics which are more current friendly and dosen't too much power.
Where i am at there is a revolution going now with the highest grade of going green from The tiniest Electronics to the high ends one. if like i said we keep on following the status quo will we never get anything done. we that know better should be the one's Leading and let other follow.
I know for sure that if the people see and know how viable this system are they will quickly join but you have a point of this get rich quick method of the sellers selling inferior and not qualitive things to people thereby making a mockery of what could have been a movement.

I have two or more lg inverter acs. They have a low starting current, but they still consume power. My inverter batteries are on their last legs, and I doubt the inverter will run 30 minutes with one.

The users best suited to inverters are those with spartan lifestyles. That estate is for nigerian rich, who are energy hogs.

EgunMogaji:


I've been silently watching auctions on military grade solar batteries. These are fail safe batteries which costs taxpayers a fortune but they have a rotational cycle of only 2 years.

I have a friend that was lucky to get some out of Hawaii. He is a techie and he rants and raves about their capacity.

Anyways, like you said, the good products are out there but our fellow citizens have managed to dilute the "movement". One of my retirement business models is selling/installing solars. I've been doing a fair amount of research and just not sure if the populace is ready to embrace the eye popping cost of the good stuff. Some will but I want to follow the Walmart business model. Sell a lot for less.

even the normal batteries sold in Nigeria can be used and expected to work well with solar. Offgrid solar systems can be very flakky and the devil is in how u use your system, sizing your loads to be in sync with what you generate. My own offgrid setup which I DIY is working 24/7 plus minimum of 8 hours Freezer and Fridge time and yet battery is usually cycled at about 35% depth of discharge. My battery voltage has never dropped before 12.3v since I starting using the system about 2 years ago