pranil:


Yes but in my particular case I have 5.6 Kwp installed with house load of just 500 watt during normal school days except washing machine for one hour. Since I am in rented House it is easier for me to relocate the PV panels and Gyserwise than to rearrange plumbing.

Also Gyserwise fits with my main design principle. When the grid is available to use the grid as far as possible. At current 24 NGN /Unit Grid power is still cheapest per unit of energy in Nigeria. if the situation changes we shall see

The other option I was thinking of was to use PVT panels ( hybrid panels) where solar PV is combined with EV tubes
Uptil now I did not find them in Nigeria market.

http://www.staffordarea.saveyourenergy.org.uk/what/solar/Solar%20PVT%20hybrid%20panels

http://www.eesy.uk.com/services/micro_03_PVT/index.htm

https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/pvt-hybrid-solar-panel.html

Nice going! I'd been dreaming of such panels. Didn't know they actually exist already. Let's hope they make their way into our market soon.

The numbers seem fantastic though

Saipro:


Nice going! I'd been dreaming of such panels. Didn't know they actually exist already. Let's hope they make their way into our market soon.

The numbers seem fantastic though

I have a Victron Bidirectional Quattro( multi) so I am planning to try using a small Grid tie Inverter with solar panels and a current sensor - See atttached PDF -





The sensor can be similar to this -https://www.ev-power.eu/Measure-Test-Tools-1-1/Current-Monitoring-Relay-PRI-52-AC-0-5A-25A-CE.html#tab2

A soladin or APS grid inverter will be ideal choice ( 1 KW to 2 KW) -

http://www.mastervolt.com/products/solar-inverters/soladin-1000-web/

APS- http://www.apsmicroinverter.nl/

The idea is that whenever the current sensor senses the Current flowing from PV panels to Multi or from Multi to PV panels the sensor after 1 min will switch off the Powercontactor feeding the water heater/Boiler - The contractor timer waits for 10-20 min and resets if there is no current flow then the water heater remains connected till the current sensor switches it off

the idea being that in daytime the solar PV inverter will directly feed power to water heater. After midday when the heater gets thermal cutoff there is no power draw from heater the excess energy is fed back through multi to loads and battery

You can set timers( time of Day) and even a bypass switch to feed the heater directly from Multi in winter or night if some top up heat is required.

Alternatively, a time of the day timer can be fitted to disconnect heater in the evenings /night to prevent draw from batteries ( in case your inverter is not passing the grid to the heater)



Since the grid tie inverters have efficiencies between 95-97 % you are using the full yield and compared to the DC heating element you can locate your panels anywhere and heater anywhere in the house as long as they are connected at AC side

Also, the solar panels can be smaller say 500 watts ( set current control higher than the difference of Panel average yield and heating load) OR

They can be much larger ( set current control or a lower value say 1 to 2 amps)



In my case I am planning to use a similar setup but instead of heater use it for running an air conditioner - The one advantage I have is that the AC is inverter type. so it ramps up the load from 100 Watt to 900 watts in linear fashion giving ample time to the contractor to act and disconnect if it is a cloudy day without much tick toc effect

pranil:

I have a Victron Bidirectional Quattro( multi) so I am planning to try using a small Grid tie Inverter with solar panels and a current sensor - See atttached PDF -





The sensor can be similar to this -https://www.ev-power.eu/Measure-Test-Tools-1-1/Current-Monitoring-Relay-PRI-52-AC-0-5A-25A-CE.html#tab2

A soladin or APS grid inverter will be ideal choice ( 1 KW to 2 KW) -

http://www.mastervolt.com/products/solar-inverters/soladin-1000-web/

APS- http://www.apsmicroinverter.nl/

The idea is that whenever the current sensor senses the Current flowing from PV panels to Multi or from Multi to PV panels the sensor after 1 min will switch off the Powercontactor feeding the water heater/Boiler - The contractor timer waits for 10-20 min and resets if there is no current flow then the water heater remains connected till the current sensor switches it off

the idea being that in daytime the solar PV inverter will directly feed power to water heater. After midday when the heater gets thermal cutoff there is no power draw from heater the excess energy is fed back through multi to loads and battery

You can set timers( time of Day) and even a bypass switch to feed the heater directly from Multi in winter or night if some top up heat is required.

Alternatively, a time of the day timer can be fitted to disconnect heater in the evenings /night to prevent draw from batteries ( in case your inverter is not passing the grid to the heater)



Since the grid tie inverters have efficiencies between 95-97 % you are using the full yield and compared to the DC heating element you can locate your panels anywhere and heater anywhere in the house as long as they are connected at AC side

Also, the solar panels can be smaller say 500 watts ( set current control higher than the difference of Panel average yield and heating load) OR

They can be much larger ( set current control or a lower value say 1 to 2 amps)



In my case I am planning to use a similar setup but instead of heater use it for running an air conditioner - The one advantage I have is that the AC is inverter type. so it ramps up the load from 100 Watt to 900 watts in linear fashion giving ample time to the contractor to act and disconnect if it is a cloudy day without much tick toc effect

You really are into life hacks!

@Pranil
hmnn, the rate at which you are going, Am sure your house will be full of gadgets and complicated designs . Did you study electronics? Abi you just an enthusiast. From your solar, down to your water pump. In fact, the water pump setup scare me self. Hope your wife dey enjoy all this your fun too.

I have my raspberry pi 3. It is amazing. I think you need to share the MTQQ and NODESCRIPT concept, design and etc etc with me.

babaegun:


@SolnergyPower

I've not see any within that 100W range. Maybe some guys in-house will still share better ones with us soon.

I have 300w AC Areo dry Iron I have been using since 2009 when I have not dreamt of inverter or solar. it so efficient that it melted the lower plastic casing and it's thermostat knob making me to hate using it for sometime. Last year, with the fear of recession and the need to protect my battery bank, I had to dig it out from my dusty store & insulate the casing from it's element or iron base.

now I enjoy pressing cloths anytime of d day with just 300w on my 2kva/1600w inverter.

I have since dumped my Siemens 2200w water iron.

for those looking for inverter friendly pressing iron, check it out maybe you will find an improved version of it.

pranil:


A grid is a legal term referring multiple energy sources connected together for distribution to multiple legal entities so when you call an inverter grid tie it means It is coupled to other energy sources which are regulated based on national laws
Infact based on your recommendation the first search of grid tie inverter brought me to wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grid-tie_inverter

Quote " A grid-tie inverter converts direct current (DC) into an alternating current (AC) suitable for injecting into an electrical power grid, normally 120V RMS at 60Hz or 240V RMS at 50 Hz. Grid-tie inverters are used between local electrical power generators: solar panel, wind turbine, hydro-electric, and the grid.[1]"
In order to inject electrical power efficiently and safely into the grid, grid-tie inverters must accurately match the voltage and phase of the grid sine wave AC waveform.
Some electricity companies will pay for electrical power that is injected into the grid. Unquote

The emphasis is here again GRID-TIE - .
A simple google search will also take you to various manufacturers use of grid tie inverters recommendation and certifications for grid tie which specifically refers to connecting to local distribution grid

Please note that Grid tie inverters are not only frequency based control but they require a complex mechanism to detect abnormal grid conditions such as power swings and ramp rates which are different for every country . A grid tie inverter can also inject VAr into the system or disturb the static var compensations as well as contribute to harmonics

Just to make point clear about google I am not some D.i.Y enthusiast who has read on internet but a practicing consultant for more than 25 years and in renewables for more than 9 years for a leading German consulting company . I have advised utilities and private companies in many countries both in east and west africa on Power systems , renewables and sustainable energy . I use off grid system for my house as a hobby and out of necessity and constantly experimenting with it . But I am worried when people are not aware of the dangers the systems will try to take only partial knowledge and create problems down the line for the entire solar enthusiasts
If interested you can have a look at the publication coauthored by me for ministry of power on Nigerian Electrical system with emphasis on Renewables and rural electrification
http://www.energyplatformnigeria.com/images/Library/Energy_Sector_Study_(2nd_Edition)_-_GIZ_NESP_2015.pdf
http://www.energyplatformnigeria.com/index.php/overarching

Every responsible inverter manufacturers will tell you that in places of weak grid like Nigeria Grid tie or even AC coupled systems are bad idea . It can lead to instability , flickers and other unanticipated issues .


See the attached snipped from official victron user forums where Victron has replied to exact same question -
https://www.victronenergy.com/live/ess:design-installation-manual

P.s. I am not stopping people from using the grid tie inverters just let them be aware that there are both technical and legal pitfalls ahead of them specially when Grid tie inverters cost much higher than offgrid /hybrid inverters and have lower overall efficiency in a typical residential house with battery backup .( converting solar DC to Ac and then back to DC to charge the batteries) . Unfortunately due to severe requirements placed on them because of grid tie they turn out to be more reliable and durable then typical offf grid inverters and hence preferred even for off grid

Oga Pranil, after all your previous rantings about the supposed "Ilegality" of using grid-tie inverters in an off-grid system, you are now dreaming of implementing an AC-coupled system using the same grid-tie inverter (in this case microinverters hard-coupled to PV panels)?
You are trying to implement a variation of an off-grid, AC-Coupled system with grid-tie inverters called a "GRID-FREE" system, yet you argue that grid-tie inverters must inject into the national grid. Please explain to the forum how you plan to stabilize the national grid and also show us all the NEC / NERC code compliance certificates and permits that must be issued to you by our beloved NEPA ...sorry Eko Disco....

jazzman2:


Oga Pranil, after all your previous rantings about the supposed "Ilegality" of using grid-tie inverters in an off-grid system, you are now dreaming of implementing an AC-coupled system using the same grid-tie inverter (in this case microinverters hard-coupled to PV panels)?
You are trying to implement a variation of an off-grid, AC-Coupled system with grid-tie inverters called a "GRID-FREE" system, yet you argue that grid-tie inverters must inject into the national grid. Please explain to the forum how you plan to stabilize the national grid and also show us all the NEC / NERC code compliance certificates and permits that must be issued to you by our beloved NEPA ...sorry Eko Disco....

I thought we let this go a while back.
The hazards of a self-contained micro-grid cannot be over-emphasized but is beautiful when properly setup. If you follow SMA installations, you'd discover it's the preferred mode of using Sunny Boys in an off-grid setup (backed by a Sunny Island master). Chris on this forum seems to have installed quite a few units and I vividly remember seeing pictures of a Sunny Boy/Sunny Island combo setup by his company on this forum. He could lend us his practical experience rather than us drawing abstractions.

FAIRLY NEW


Recently upgraded this systems and all up for grabs wit its warranty seal still intact .. All working "inverting/charging" like new ;

-Mercury 3kva 24v LCD display pure sinewave power inverter worth 200-220k for brand new
-Sinergy 3.5kva 48v LCD display pure sinewave power inverter
-Fairly new 200a batteries "Loading soon"

Strictly for interested clients as its half the price of its brand-new

Call >> +234-813-503-1951

Way to go Pranil...
Have you jettisoned the Geywiserrobot project?
It seems the best approach to solve the wahala below, as it's the same issue I'm faced with.

DUNKA:
chiefo the plumbing is also what had been putting me off installing a a solar water system. How did you handle the plumbing for multiple bathrooms and kitchen without extensive modifications of the existing plumbing works? Please further explanation would be appreciated to enable us understand the re plumbing

If you need cccam account for Tvsat Africa 16e

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Qsat account

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efuro:


I have 300w AC Areo dry Iron I have been using since 2009 when I have not dreamt of inverter or solar. it so efficient that it melted the lower plastic casing and it's thermostat ......

Wow! That's a good one. Hope it is still in the market.

kiekie1:


Hello powerstar / voltron series dosnt have 72v(6 units 12v) dc input systems .. He might be confusing 72v inverter with 2×2×2 battery bank systems.. Cheers !

It would seem you are right. Just had a discussion with their sales manager and he confirmed your assertion. And he said Rubitec does not have/market their own branded inverters.

Saipro:


That would be ideal but painfully, most irons are rated at 1,500W or over. A lot of them are 1,800W and beyond if they're steam irons.

Mine is a Philips too and is rated 1,000W; I checked just now and I discovered it kicks in at 708W. I don't think one would find an iron at 100W. It would take too long to heat up and the the thermostat might never go off when in use.

I own 2pcs one 500w that operates at 400w and one 100w that operates at 35w. Works very well for me

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aroseyi:
If you need cccam account for Tvsat Africa 16e

9e cccam account

Full European cccam on hotbird and hispasat

Cccam for star time 5e

Canal reunion and Zap 36e cccam

Qsat account

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Whatsapp me +2348062272279

Skype : ancl.sy

You will never change.Stop spamming this thread!What has this got to do with solar?

@ babaegun
I don't know if it is available again. it's a long time

JUO:
I own 2pcs one 500w that operates at 400w and one 100w that operates at 35w. Works very well for me

Ur lucky to have dem. it is no load to ur setup.

jazzman2:


Oga Pranil, after all your previous rantings about the supposed "Ilegality" of using grid-tie inverters in an off-grid system, you are now dreaming of implementing an AC-coupled system using the same grid-tie inverter (in this case microinverters hard-coupled to PV panels)?
You are trying to implement a variation of an off-grid, AC-Coupled system with grid-tie inverters called a "GRID-FREE" system, yet you argue that grid-tie inverters must inject into the national grid. Please explain to the forum how you plan to stabilize the national grid and also show us all the NEC / NERC code compliance certificates and permits that must be issued to you by our beloved NEPA ...sorry Eko Disco....

you have every right to call me out .

I only pointed out the dangers both technical and legal and left the choice to consumers in the absence of any regulation on GRID Tie since the community is full of D.I>Y enthusiast who might lack the knowledge to make a suitable decision . May be it was misunderstood

F.y.i. in my case is I am using a islanding relay and a Em24 Energy meter to ensure that the grid export is prevented along with PV assitant and a Venus GX If you want I can send you my discussion with Victron ,EVpower and ,d Soladin on applying Microinverter.

Even Victron has not done it before and I am trying to test a solution

Infact both Soladin and victron advised me against it as it has never been done before making me more curious to try it out

babaegun:
@Pranil
hmnn, the rate at which you are going, Am sure your house will be full of gadgets and complicated designs . Did you study electronics? Abi you just an enthusiast. From your solar, down to your water pump. In fact, the water pump setup scare me self. Hope your wife dey enjoy all this your fun too.

I have my raspberry pi 3. It is amazing. I think you need to share the MTQQ and NODESCRIPT concept, design and etc etc with me.

My wife complains that the house should have it's own user manual
I am mainly using my Pi3 to run emoncms with ICC to mintor my Axperts ( which power the AC) and same PI is also attached to Touchscreen displaying the VRM from Victron /Venus GX

The another pi is only running measureit with currentcost to measure whole house consumption and uploading to PVOUT ( thats how I posted teh booster data)


I am now trying to get the unified dashboard for Victron and Axpert ( ipower) and other stuff using http://freeboard.io/

Currently stuck on some code on Github which needs to be modified as I have no Knowledge of JAVA- If any inhouse experts are there I can use the help

pranil:


My wife complains that the house should have it's own user manual
I am mainly using my Pi3 to run emoncms with ICC to mintor my Axperts ( which power the AC) and same PI is also attached to Touchscreen displaying the VRM from Victron /Venus GX

The another pi is only running measureit with currentcost to measure whole house consumption and uploading to PVOUT ( thats how I posted teh booster data)


I am now trying to get the unified dashboard for Victron and Axpert ( ipower) and other stuff using http://freeboard.io/

Currently stuck on some code on Github which needs to be modified as I have no Knowledge of JAVA- If any inhouse experts are there I can use the help

So the VRM works with a raspberry pi lcd making it essentially a CCGX? I tended to do just that. I read the touch screen part has some driver issues since the code has not been tested on the Venus image your thoughts

DUNKA:
chiefo the plumbing is also what had been putting me off installing a a solar water system. How did you handle the plumbing for multiple bathrooms and kitchen without extensive modifications of the existing plumbing works? Please further explanation would be appreciated to enable us understand the re plumbing

dunka,
plumbing does not need to be a headache for you when it comes to solar water heating.
first of all, get the package and measure the total height of the assembly, i.e from the top
of the water heater tank to the foot of the frame carrying it. add one or two feet to this value.
that would be the clearance from the bottom of the main water tank to the top of the water
heater tank.
after installing the water heater, run your hot water lines direct from the hot water outlet to
the inlet of your existing electric water heater inlet. use a t-connection copper tube. you
only need to bore a little hole from outside your bathroom to gain access to the existing
plumbing.use the t-connection to introduce the hot water into your bathroom.

JUO:
I own 2pcs one 500w that operates at 400w and one 100w that operates at 35w. Works very well for me

Here you are puncturing neat holes in my elegant speculation. Nice one. In final defence, I would claim those seem to be traveler type irons, renown for portability and low energy consumption.

GeorgeD1:


dunka,
plumbing does not need to be a headache for you when it comes to solar water heating.
first of all, get the package and measure the total height of the assembly, i.e from the top
of the water heater tank to the foot of the frame carrying it. add one or two feet to this value.
that would be the clearance from the bottom of the main water tank to the top of the water
heater tank.
after installing the water heater, run your hot water lines direct from the hot water outlet to
the inlet of your existing electric water heater inlet. use a t-connection copper tube. you
only need to bore a little hole from outside your bathroom to gain access to the existing
plumbing.use the t-connection to introduce the hot water into your bathroom.

Thanks a million . I will run it by my plumber and see how it goes. What did you do with your former water heaters?

GeorgeD1:


dunka,
plumbing does not need to be a headache for you when it comes to solar water heating.
first of all, get the package and measure the total height of the assembly, i.e from the top
of the water heater tank to the foot of the frame carrying it. add one or two feet to this value.
that would be the clearance from the bottom of the main water tank to the top of the water
heater tank.
after installing the water heater, run your hot water lines direct from the hot water outlet to
the inlet of your existing electric water heater inlet. use a t-connection copper tube. you
only need to bore a little hole from outside your bathroom to gain access to the existing
plumbing.use the t-connection to introduce the hot water into your bathroom.

just wondering...so for an old house....one would have to run the hot water pipe from the solar heater to the various hot water points in the house?...........if yes..that would be untidy and a bit difficult in some builds.

for a new house having a central hot water piping traverse the whole house might be a tidier option...though when one factors in the cost of the copper pipes...it might add up to much...especially for a large build eg 5br duplex..
what are your thoughts/advice?

DUNKA:
Thanks a million . I will run it by my plumber and see how it goes. What did you do with your former water heaters?

dunka,
i dismantled them and gave them away. there was really no point in keeping
them around as i wouldn't be needing them anymore. and, several months down
the line, i'm still glad i took that step.

earthrealm:


just wondering...so for an old house....one would have to run the hot water pipe from the solar heater to the various hot water points in the house?...........if yes..that would be untidy and a bit difficult in some builds.

for a new house having a central hot water piping traverse the whole house might be a tidier option...though when one factors in the cost of the copper pipes...it might add up to much...especially for a large build eg 5br duplex..
what are your thoughts/advice?

earthrealm,
yes, for a house with an already existing electric hot water plumbing network, you definitely have to
run your solar water heater hot line to the various points but its not really as untidy as you think.
provided it has an existing hot water line, you can retrofit the solar water heater outlet to link up with
your existing plumbing system.
for a new house, it becomes even better. the cost of copper plumbing drops drastically because in this
instance you can run your hot water line directly either from the roof downwards or through the floor
of the house.

GeorgeD1:


dunka,
plumbing does not need to be a headache for you when it comes to solar water heating.
first of all, get the package and measure the total height of the assembly, i.e from the top
of the water heater tank to the foot of the frame carrying it. add one or two feet to this value.
that would be the clearance from the bottom of the main water tank to the top of the water
heater tank.
after installing the water heater, run your hot water lines direct from the hot water outlet to
the inlet of your existing electric water heater inlet. use a t-connection copper tube. You only need to bore a little hole from outside your bathroom to gain access to the existing plumbing.use the t-connection to introduce the hot water into your bathroom.

Problem is that my cold water is boosted at 3 Bar which means I have to boost Hot water also with a booster to match user expectation on temperature versus mixer handle position. Also, Hot water boosters /recirculation pumps are on the pricier side

How much outlet temperature normally you get on a sunny day and cloudy day. I might use the hot water as preheated water for one boiler /heater used for the main bathroom and later think of adding other rooms

Where did you get your system from? Any issues with the pumps controllers ?

pranil:


Problem is that my cold water is boosted at 3 Bar which means I have to boost Hot water also with a booster to match user expectation on temperature versus mixer handle position. Also, Hot water boosters /recirculation pumps are on the pricier side

How much outlet temperature normally you get on a sunny day and cloudy day. I might use the hot water as preheated water for one boiler /heater used for the main bathroom and later think of adding other rooms

Where did you get your system from? Any issues with the pumps controllers ?

any reviews for this unit - https:///protek-solar-water-heater-200l-with-heating-element-1647054

pranil:


any reviews for this unit - https:///protek-solar-water-heater-200l-with-heating-element-1647054

I have the 300L, which has been in use for almost 2 years. it is awesome and I have not had a single issue with it since it was installed.

Just install and forget it while you continue to enjoy your hot water.

Cheers

bigrovar:


So the VRM works with a raspberry pi lcd making it essentially a CCGX? I tended to do just that. I read the touch screen part has some driver issues since the code has not been tested on the Venus image your thoughts

the Venus GX ( Same as CCGX ) is here - https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wiki/raspberrypi-install-venus-image

Runs very well I ran it for few months before getting the Venus GX ( i wanted the Can bus and Tank levels)

The 7 inch display for RS components is the official version with case - No driver required - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/graphics-display-development-kits/8997466/

Lagos dealer is below

kiekie1:
FAIRLY NEW


Recently upgraded this systems and all up for grabs wit its warranty seal still intact .. All working "inverting/charging" like new ;

-Mercury 3kva 24v LCD display pure sinewave power inverter worth 200-220k for brand new
-Sinergy 3.5kva 48v LCD display pure sinewave power inverter
-Fairly new 200a batteries "Loading soon"

Strictly for interested clients as its half the price of its brand-new

Call >> +234-813-503-1951

HURRY ! Very good fairly new 12v 200a batteries up for GRABS . Dial me up now .... #limited stock