elegungun:
Good morning house, please I urgently need solar installer who can work in Osun state.

Pls call this number 09057285592

efuro:


Cheap/Affordable & high Quality PV modules.
We are getting somewhere in Nigeria.

We must encourage such dealers.


You have given me best news for the week!

i even got 20.1amps today but my fone wasnt any where close to quickly snap

efuro:


My setup is 12 pieces of 150w (6 poly, 6 mono) and battery bank of 7200WH@ 24v, plus 2kva microtek inverter, 60A fangpusun mppt. 50A PV/CC breaker, No Mnspd, No router, contactor or automation, etc. Just a simple setup to ensure 24hrs electricity.

However, I do not have PV feedback or at least my CC takes care of that. It rare nowadays to have that problem you described. Most PV have blocking diode at their terminal box. Also, standard CC prevent such scenario. And if that occurs please audit ur setup.


1. Run some test to Confirm if ur batteries are not the culprit, this include leaving ur pv breaker open while discharging ur bank.

2. Did u do + or - ive grounding to ur setup? If no, insulate ur cables with PVC pipe right from the rooftop-combiner-cc and battery etc. If u don't have funds then just trace ur cable carefully for possible leakages. ( option 2 is only where ur CC is not standard or locally built)

My advice
Calculate ur max pv voc and get a rated diode soldered along the cable just after combiner box (if u have) or before ur CC breaker and you will be fine.

http://www.solar-facts.com/panels/panel-diodes.php

Let us know how you're are able to resolve the issue.

Thanks for. The suggestion. Will carry out a examination on all the cables. Another question if my panels are setup different sides of the roof. 2 stings on opposite sides of the roof (3*4) config. I have suspecting that maybe the panels that get early sunlight might get pulled down by the other panels that don't have exposure yet causing early morning. Drain. also similar case later at night as sun sets one side still as exposure while the other panels are asleep drainage starts. I guessing this might be culprit. Over to my ogas in the house

samnaija:

Thanks for. The suggestion. Will carry out a examination on all the cables. Another question if my panels are setup different sides of the roof. 2 stings on opposite sides of the roof (3*4) config. I have suspecting that maybe the panels that get early sunlight might get pulled down by the other panels that don't have exposure yet causing early morning. Drain. also similar case later at night as sun sets one side still as exposure while the other panels are asleep drainage starts. I guessing this might be culprit. Over to my ogas in the house

The Algorithm of the CC envisages all the fear u expressed. And with your epsolar mppt, ur in good hand except it is faulty.

@efuro you stated placing the rated diode either b4 breaker of the cc. Is at the negative side or positive side. And any idea on the size of the rated diode.

If the cc is faulty and not preventing this back drain how can u detect this. The cc brings out 30-40a on a good day with volts peaking at 125v no load. That's on epsolar display


.

samnaija:
@efuro you stated placing the rated diode either b4 breaker of the cc. Is at the negative side or positive side. And any idea on the size of the rated diode.

If the cc is faulty and not preventing this back drain how can u detect this. The cc brings out 30-40a on a good day with volts peaking at 125v no load. That's on epsolar display.

Of course fix a diode 50% greater than the upper limits of ur CC on the positive line. Be cautious of it's cathode and anode nodes or better

Rely on ur technician to select and fix an approximate diode.

Or PM me for further discussion.

Remember the thread is tending to "no more free advice "

efuro:


...Remember the thread is tending to "no more free advice "

udy821:
i even got 20.1amps today but my fone wasnt any where close to quickly snap

I like your joy, why? You are contented with what you have and happy at the same time. Congrats

udy821:
i even got 20.1amps today but my fone wasnt any where close to quickly snap

JUO:
I like your joy, why? You are contented with what you have and happy at the same time. Congrats

With 2 times of his amps (i.e 4 panels at most 5 PVs), I can power my AC @ minimum speed.

No more NEPA/Disco shakara

Solar surely works!

JUO:
I like your joy, why? You are contented with what you have and happy at the same time. Congrats

my oga thanks o, im so hapi ehh, just like today i got steady 23.5amps(between 1-1:30pm) input frm my two solar panels. thank God i dont regret buying 150watts panel instead of 160watts to parallel my initial 160watts panel because of cash constraint.since i got dis solar panels my inverter neva beep again o.

udy821:
my oga thanks o, im so hapi ehh, just like today i got steady 23.5amps(between 1-1:30pm) input frm my two solar panels. thank God i dont regret buying 150watts panel instead of 160watts to parallel my initial 160watts panel because of cash constraint.since i got dis solar panels my inverter neva beep again o.

I'm also experiencing the same amp output, It making me feel PWM controller is better when using 18V PV for small 12V system, I used to get up to 90%+ efficiency during peak sun hour/solar noon, as oppose the 80% MPPT makers claims. cos I get more Current than rated at panel

Dam5reey:


I'm also experiencing the same amp output, It making me feel PWM controller is better when using 18V PV for small 12V system, I used to get up to 90%+ efficiency during peak sun hour/solar noon, as oppose the 80% MPPT makers claims. cos I get more Current than rated at panel

reason y i went for pwm is because i heard its immune to lightning. dont know how true dis is but to be on a safe side. if mppt gives 30%+ i can meet up by adding anoda solar panel(enof space since landlord no complain lol)

Again we start the never ending MPPT vs. PWM argument .

Most authorities agree that for small systems under 1000watts or so, PWM may be a better choice provided the right kind of panels with sufficiently high rated voltage and also matched to the battery voltage are used with a good PWM controller - besides the PWM principle of operation is simpler to implement and intrinsically less prone to energy conversion losses and heat generation than MPPT is.

MPPT's 30% additional yield is the *theoretical* maximum gain when performance is measured under STC - a cold, clear skies sunny day with temperatures around or below 25°C - I am sure such perfect conditions are scarce to come by in real life and these are amongst the reasons why hardcore old-school engineering firms like Bogart Engineering (makers of the Trimetric and other excellent battery monitors) don't make MPPT charge controllers but only PWM.

Where MPPT definitely trumps PWM is the ability to add panels in series to increase PV array voltage and convert this excess voltage to useful current for charging batteries esp. during the battery bulk charge phase -- [(with panels setup in series higher than the battery voltage one is generating the same quantum of power but with lesser amps PV side and therefore one is able to use thinner and cheaper cables for the PV to CC run. Simultaneously, the excess voltage that would be wasted if the panels were setup in series in a PWM config. is being converted to useful charge current flowing into the batteries if you use MPPT)].

Imagine you upgraded your present ~300watt PV array to 1500watts - your roughly 20amps peak yield now could be as high as 100amps in a 1500watt PWM installation - imagine the thickness of the cables you would need to use from your panels to the CC to safely carry 100amps current - something like 25/35MM thickness minimum With MPPT however, you could comfortably use 10/16MM cables for this installation and still have head-room for further expansion later. Also the higher voltage setup with MPPT makes it easier to overcome the inevitable voltage drop (think power losses) that is the bane of all DC powered systems [especially critical if the distance between the PV panels and Charge Controller is much] and then all the excess voltage that makes it to the MPPT controller can be converted to useful battery current.

It's a never ending debate really so I'll end it here but I'll leave a link to Bogart Engineering's MPPT vs. PWM analyis to broaden the knowlege base - in the end, I always advise people to sit down and do the fully loaded cost benefit analysis of both scenarios to know what works best for them e.g. extra cable costs with PWM may easily be offset by much higher cost of an MPPT charge controller as compared to a similar rated PWM one. I started off with a MorningStar PWM CC before I sold it off and moved to MPPT both technologies performed very well when used within their design limits.

[img] https://www.dropbox.com/s/de5rwiqqokckv7b/MPPT%20VS%20PWM%20VS%20MPPT.png?dl=0 [/img]

And a more condensed summary by another source ...
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_controller_testing

Its great to see you getting so much mileage from such a small system.

On a lighter note, as far as I know, no man made electronics whether PWM or MPPT can survive a direct hit from lightening, nothing is immune to that much concentrated power - what one may do is to have mitigants lightening arrestor, equipment grounding, surge protectors like the MNSPD sold by marketers on here e.t.c in place.

udy821:
reason y i went for pwm is because i heard its immune to lightning. dont know how true dis is but to be on a safe side. if mppt gives 30%+ i can meet up by adding anoda solar panel(enof space since landlord no complain lol)

Dam5reey:


I'm also experiencing the same amp output, It making me feel PWM controller is better when using 18V PV for small 12V system, I used to get up to 90%+ efficiency during peak sun hour/solar noon, as oppose the 80% MPPT makers claims. cos I get more Current than rated at panel

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Again we start the never ending MPPT vs. PWM argument

The screenshot says it all

PWM is better for lower set ups like 300Watts
I agree with all statements on the screenshot.. cos I had same experience when I compared MPPT and PWM on single 140W panel..

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Again we start the never ending MPPT vs. PWM argument .

Most authorities agree that for small systems under 1000watts or so, PWM may be a better choice provided the right kind of panels with sufficiently high rated voltage and also matched to the battery voltage are used with a good PWM controller - besides the PWM principle of operation is simpler to implement and intrinsically less prone to energy conversion losses and heat generation than MPPT is.

MPPT's 30% additional yield is the *theoretical* maximum gain when performance is measured under STC - a cold, clear skies sunny day with temperatures around or below 25°C - I am sure such perfect conditions are scarce to come by in real life and these are amongst the reasons why hardcore old-school engineering firms like Bogart Engineering (makers of the Trimetric and other excellent battery monitors) don't make MPPT charge controllers but only PWM.

Where MPPT definitely trumps PWM is the ability to add panels in series to increase PV array voltage and convert this excess voltage to useful current for charging batteries esp. during the battery bulk charge phase -- [(with panels setup in series higher than the battery voltage one is generating the same quantum of power but with lesser amps PV side and therefore one is able to use thinner and cheaper cables for the PV to CC run. Simultaneously, the excess voltage that would be wasted if the panels were setup in series in a PWM config. is being converted to useful charge current flowing into the batteries if you use MPPT)].

Imagine you upgraded your present ~300watt PV array to 1500watts - your roughly 20amps peak yield now could be as high as 100amps in a 1500watt PWM installation - imagine the thickness of the cables you would need to use from your panels to the CC to safely carry 100amps current - something like 25/35MM thickness minimum With MPPT however, you could comfortably use 10/16MM cables for this installation and still have head-room for further expansion later. Also the higher voltage setup with MPPT makes it easier to overcome the inevitable voltage drop (think power losses) that is the bane of all DC powered systems [especially critical if the distance between the PV panels and Charge Controller is much] and then all the excess voltage that makes it to the MPPT controller can be converted to useful battery current.

It's a never ending debate really so I'll end it here but I'll leave a link to Bogart Engineering's MPPT vs. PWM analyis to broaden the knowlege base - in the end, I always advise people to sit down and do the fully loaded cost benefit analysis of both scenarios to know what works best for them e.g. extra cable costs with PWM may easily be offset by much higher cost of an MPPT charge controller as compared to a similar rated PWM one. I started off with a MorningStar PWM CC before I sold it off and moved to MPPT both technologies performed very well when used within their design limits.

[img] https://www.dropbox.com/s/de5rwiqqokckv7b/MPPT%20VS%20PWM%20VS%20MPPT.png?dl=0 [/img]

And a more condensed summary by another source ...
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_controller_testing

Its great to see you getting so much mileage from such a small system.

On a lighter note, as far as I know, no man made electronics whether PWM or MPPT can survive a direct hit from lightening, nothing is immune to that much concentrated power - what one may do is to have mitigants lightening arrestor, equipment grounding, surge protectors like the MNSPD sold by marketers on here e.t.c in place.

Thank you so much for this beautiful piece of information... I strongly believe that this will go a long way to help the DIY enthusiast like myself who are yet to join the RE world to properly plan accordingly based on their budget, as the economy is not smiling on us ...

Waiting patiently for those who will be considering upgrading their setup and willing to sell off their old system at a more pocket friendly price

Breaking news!!
The first off-grid Solar house in Lagos

http://punchng.com/off-grid-solar-house-launched-in-lagos/

Barezzi:
Breaking news!!
The first off-grid Solar house in Lagos

http://punchng.com/off-grid-solar-house-launched-in-lagos/

that is not news. Many people have been using it for years without noise making, even GeorgeD get load pass the house. Regular pumping machine, electric iron, bulbs, water heaters no modern equipment. How is this a news punch?

JUO:
that is not news. Many people have been using it for years without noise making, even GeorgeD get load pass the house. Regular pumping machine, electric iron, bulbs, water heaters no modern equipment. How is this a news punch?

Master,
I was just being sarcastic!
We full ground here. I was just shocked about the claim, that's why I posted it.

kiekie1:


HURRY ! Very good fairly new 12v 200a batteries up for GRABS . Dial me up now .... #limited stock

All in very good working condition ... See profile - signature now for mobile number !

BangDadaDang... lifepo4 batteries don land o

pranil , @jazzman2 , DUNKA , Oshomo12 , DMerciful , dapsyra , @damola1


Abeg who go help me successfully install am, based on experience of doing same before. Is there anything else to buy like the BMS?

I got; 12, and also I have a Magnum 4KVA and Outback 3kva, all 24V.

Specs of battery are:

Capacity: 210Ah
Height: 147 mm
Width: 429 mm
Length: 147 mm
Bolt Size: M8
Voltage nominal: 3.2V
Charge voltage cut-off: 3.6V
Discharging cut-off: 2.5V
Chemistry: LiFePO4

My location is: Ikeja.

damola1:
BangDadaDang... lifepo4 batteries don land o

pranil , @jazzman2 , DUNKA , Oshomo12 , DMerciful , dapsyra , @damola1


Abeg who go help me successfully install am, based on experience of doing same before. Is there anything else to buy like the BMS?

I got; 12, and also I have a Magnum 4KVA and Outback 3kva, all 24V.

My location is: Behind F.O. filling station Ikeja.

See machine o, more grease... whatapp 08117398294

damola1:
BangDadaDang... lifepo4 batteries don land o

pranil , @jazzman2 , DUNKA , Oshomo12 , DMerciful , dapsyra , @damola1


Abeg who go help me successfully install am, based on experience of doing same before. Is there anything else to buy like the BMS?

I got; 12, and also I have a Magnum 4KVA and Outback 3kva, all 24V.

Specs of battery are:

Capacity: 210Ah
Height: 147 mm
Width: 429 mm
Length: 147 mm
Bolt Size: M8
Voltage nominal: 3.2V
Charge voltage cut-off: 3.6V
Discharging cut-off: 2.5V
Chemistry: LiFePO4

My location is: Behind F.O. filling station Ikeja.

Congrats on your acquisition of such highly rated batteries.

Installation is not difficult, so you can do-it-yourself.

For a nominal 24V setup, it is advisable that you use 8 of the batteries in series. I will also advise that you charge to 3.5v instead of 3.6v and discharge to 2.7v instead of 2.5v. This will greatly increase the cycle life of the batteries. You should also install a good quality BMS to protect the batteries against overcharge and over discharge.

So, connect 8 batteries in series and set your charge controller to absorb voltage=28v, absorb time=1minute, float=28v. Also set the LVD of your inverter to 21.6v

Since LiFePO4 batteries can delivery very high current when demanded (i.e short circuit), please endeavour to install appropriately rated DC circuit breaker on the battery.

Make sure the BMS is capable of both High and Low Voltage Disconnect.

Enjoy your investment.

dapsyra:


Congrats on your acquisition of such highly rated batteries.

Installation is not difficult, so you can do-it-yourself.

For a nominal 24V setup, it is advisable that you use 8 of the batteries in series. I will also advise that you charge to 3.5v instead of 3.6v and discharge to 2.7v instead of 2.5v. This will greatly increase the cycle life of the batteries. You should also install a good quality BMS to protect the batteries against overcharge and over discharge.

So, connect 8 batteries in series and set your charge controller to absorb voltage=28v, absorb time=1minute, float=28v. Also set the LVD of your inverter to 21.6v

Since LiFePO4 batteries can delivery very high current when demanded (i.e short circuit), please endeavour to install appropriately rated DC circuit breaker on the battery.

Make sure the BMS is capable of both High and Low Voltage Disconnect.

Enjoy your investment.

bros, leave DIY. Abeg. I can do a lot of things myself, but this is not one of the things I want to. time and fear no go gree me. I experiment with other things. Anyone wey don handle this sort of batteries before, make hin buzz up

Mobile: 08181302339 email: damola@damola.com

Lovely...welcome to the new club
you need either 8 or 16 of these batteries since ur inverter voltage is 24v and each battery is 3.2v. They seems to be individual cells without BMS and as such you require a BMS for them else it will dangerous . kindly contact the manufacturer or vendor on how to incorporate a BMS .
cheers

damola1:
BangDadaDang... lifepo4 batteries don land o

pranil , @jazzman2 , DUNKA , Oshomo12 , DMerciful , dapsyra , @damola1


Abeg who go help me successfully install am, based on experience of doing same before. Is there anything else to buy like the BMS?

I got; 12, and also I have a Magnum 4KVA and Outback 3kva, all 24V.

Specs of battery are:

Capacity: 210Ah
Height: 147 mm
Width: 429 mm
Length: 147 mm
Bolt Size: M8
Voltage nominal: 3.2V
Charge voltage cut-off: 3.6V
Discharging cut-off: 2.5V
Chemistry: LiFePO4

My location is: Ikeja.

damola1:


bros, leave DIY. Abeg. I can do a lot of things myself, but this is not one of the things I want to. time and fear no go gree me. I experiment with other things. Anyone wey don handle this sort of batteries before, make hin buzz up

Mobile: 08181302339 email: damola@damola.com

True talk,even as we all are DIYers here.This is not time to gamble considering the cost of your investment.Consult a specialist as you said.I hail you and all others inspiring all here..........
We don't mind if you drop the link to buying your newly acquired ba3 here.Thanks.

ENJOY!

My Two cents!
Both Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) and Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) are the most popular methods used in off grid solar battery charging. The choice to use any of them should be driven by system design and not which one is best.

In both instances-MPPT and PWM, PWM is applied when battery bank is nearing full capacity or set voltage; PWM algorithm slowly regulates the amount of power applied to the batteries by pulsating the amount of power supplied by the panels, preventing the battery voltage to rise above the set voltage (absorb voltage). The MPPT on the other is experienced when batteries are in bulk charging mode. The MPPT algorithm does a DC to DC conversion, which augments the higher voltage from the panels to allow maximum power to be applied to the batteries with a higher amperage than that supplied by the panels. In more advanced charge controllers, the tracking for Maximum power point is an ongoing event in the charger. MPPT performance advantage shines in low irradiance (cloudy days) or hot days when solar panels are not at their best; the charger tracks maximum power points and enables charger to harvest the most from a bad situation for solar panels. PWM just allows the panels to do what they want till battery voltage approaches a set voltage. That is why panel and battery voltages must be close matched; smaller panels like a Kyocera 140D has a Voc of 22.1V, Vmp of 17.7V. This panel on a good, cool sunny day may produce more power if hooked up to a Tristar TS-60 (Self-consumption of < 20mA) than it would, if it is hooked up to a Tristar TS-MPPT 60 (Self-consumption of about 2.7W). But if the clouds start rolling by or it gets really hot, the tables are likely to turn.
Considering the statement below;

…”MPPT's 30% additional yield is the *theoretical* maximum gain when performance is measured under STC - a cold, clear skies sunny day with temperatures around or below 25°C - I am sure such perfect conditions are scarce to come by in real life and these are amongst the reasons why hardcore old-school engineering firms like Bogart Engineering (makers of the Trimetric and other excellent battery monitors) don't make MPPT charge controllers but only PWM.”

The gain is in comparison to a PWM, not under standard test conditions (STC). if we are using a 20V or 24V panel (Canadian Solar CSK6K-275M, Solar World SW345 XL respectively) to charge a 12V battery. You can take advantage of the MPPT's ability to convert a higher panel voltage in a series connection to help charge your batteries in bad weather. A PWM will not be able to deliver under the same conditions.

Your system may be under 1000W, but the panels happen to be 24V panel and you also happen to have a 12V battery; it will be advisable to use an MPPT. If you happen to have a 24V battery bank and also have the Solar World panel mentioned above which has a Voc of 47.8V and Vmp of 38.2V @ STC; a PWM will be appropriate.

If you live in a region with a lot of cloud cover/low irradiation or very hot climatic conditions; PWMs won’t be the best for you. Your panels won’t deliver your batteries to absorb voltage to take advantage of the PWM effect, MPPT will be your friend. If you find yourself in a place where you experience a lot of West African typical February weather and your system isn’t big then by all means choose a PWM.

In conclusion, use what best suites your system. MPPT may be a waste of resources if it is applied in the wrong setup.

"Don't call for a 6.2L diesel engine when you are designing a motor bike"

Take another look at your link.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_controller_testing

Barezzi:
Breaking news!!
The first off-grid Solar house in Lagos

http://punchng.com/off-grid-solar-house-launched-in-lagos/

Sarcastic or not, it's a commendable/laudable feat (the publicity I mean ). The energy generation? Even little moi has similar installations under me belt. The energy production is nothing. The energy pipelines and storage are everything (of course, conservation first). I want to see the energy devices they're using for storing >=130kWh (assuming 30% DoD max). The calculation assumes of the daily generation, 40% storage and 50% consumption during the day; the rest acceptable oversizing losses.

That'd be one heck of a bank to behold!

DM

erciful:
Lovely...welcome to the new club
you need either 8 or 16 of these batteries since ur inverter voltage is 24v and each battery is 3.2v. They seems to be individual cells without BMS and as such you require a BMS for them else it will dangerous . kindly contact the manufacturer or vendor on how to incorporate a BMS .
cheers

Contacted the supplier:

Hi,

Any BMS that can handle LiFePO4 chemistry. Also just check what current you will draw ie 30amp, 100amp.

=============

So, which current will be drawn?

hello guys, pls what distance should be between solar street lights of about 40w and still have good illumination?

damola1:


Contacted the supplier:

Hi,

Any BMS that can handle LiFePO4 chemistry. Also just check what current you will draw ie 30amp, 100amp.

=============

So, which current will be drawn?

Your Inverter rating divided by Nominal voltage.
Using 24V inverter, 3kVA will draw approx. 120 AMP at Full Load, while 4 KVA willl draw approx. 160 AMP at full load.