zeestone99:


This my oga jst dey explore dey go. Enjoy

DMerciful:
For my EPsolar, itracer 60A, i use 2 breakers. One breaker which is a double pole breaker of 40A is btw the PV and CC lines. The other breaker of 80A double pole is btw the CC and battery. Here i only protect the positive terminal with one pole while the remaining free pole is use to break the PV input positive. This way, anythime the CC-battery breaker trips, there is no PV input to the CC

I do that too. My latest installation having that workaround failed, only to discover one of the poles wasn't making contact in the first place, forcing me into all kinds of troubleshooting. Frank replaced the bad breaker free of charge. That was 3 months ago. He does have his moments,

Still available...

morofolu:
Hello house,

24hour programmable timers available

Program your devices to be powered on and off automatically at specific times round the clock for efficient power management

Turn your devices on and off even when you are not home.

Can power devices up to 3,100W


Few units on ground, price from N4k

Location - Lagos

NoMoreTrolling:


hey, also when he was connecting the panels, he said he was going to do a 2 series/ parallel string.

okay, i think they were 250 watt panels, so he must have done, 2 series by 4 parallel.

The thing is, when he showed me the VOC for the panels, it was like 60 something volts, we are using a 48v inverter.

I told him that since we are installing an MPPT controller, he should do 3 series by 3 parallel connection, even if it means that we have to buy an additional panel, but he said that having a high VOC could damage the controller, even if the controller is rated for high VOC. He said on some sunny days, the VOC could exceed rated VOC and damage the controller.

I dunno, but I thought the whole point of having an MPPT controller was so you could get very high VOCs and step them down, so that on cloudy days, you would still make some power.

What time does your solar setup stop producing power? Is it still a bit light outside, or does yours stop only when its completely dark outside?

I v nt inspected ur setup yet, but for nw jst buy additional panel, change ur config to 3×3...
Ur mppt shud b able to tk 150v

U might also need a standard roof mount wit adjustable legs to giv perfect angles

u can stil reach me on whatapp 08117398294

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I agree with you that desulfators seem to work best when clamped on a new battery bank from day one.

Interestingly, I have a powerpulse 12v desulfator on my car battery as well and I am going on 3+ years now with that particular battery - again, car/starter batteries never really suffer deep discharge hence little sulfation on their plates unlike in a deep cycle battery application.

What I learnt the hard way now is before I commission any new batteries, I charge each battery fully to be sure they are all 100% charged, if time and client permits, I also load test each one to be sure of its initial capacity - this helps me to avoid premature battery failure and happy clients overall.

Indeed batteries are the weakest point and always give the most trouble and expense in any RE system - with the promise of Lithium ever so good now, I see light at the end of the tunnel.

On a lighter note, I noticed I am the only one who spells sul f ur and desul f ation American style

Dnt wori bro we r porting to lithium ...

Thanks Guy...we learn everyday

NiyiOmoIyunade:
This bros DMerciful is a sure guy! The more I read his posts, the more I come to respect the man's genius.

NoMoreTrolling:


hey, also when he was connecting the panels, he said he was going to do a 2 series/ parallel string.

okay, i think they were 250 watt panels, so he must have done, 2 series by 4 parallel.

The thing is, when he showed me the VOC for the panels, it was like 60 something volts, we are using a 48v inverter.

I told him that since we are installing an MPPT controller, he should do 3 series by 3 parallel connection, even if it means that we have to buy an additional panel, but he said that having a high VOC could damage the controller, even if the controller is rated for high VOC. He said on some sunny days, the VOC could exceed rated VOC and damage the controller.

I dunno, but I thought the whole point of having an MPPT controller was so you could get very high VOCs and step them down, so that on cloudy days, you would still make some power.

What time does your solar setup stop producing power? Is it still a bit light outside, or does yours stop only when its completely dark outside?

What is the name of the mppt controller you are using. Name and model number would do.

For a 48v system it's inexcusable to range your panels in series of 2. That's just dump for many reasons

1 You are sending more currents from PV to CC, more currents means more losses especially at the scale of PV modules u are putting in parallel. I bet a sizable about of power is lost to resistance from cabling alone.

2 issues with one leads to a 2nd problem. The losses from 1 reduces the voltage coming from the PV (amps are not affected by resistance, just voltages) of the about 60v coming from your PV between 3 to 5% can be lost to resistance 5% of 60v is 57v that's less than the 57.6v required to probably change a lead acid battery (assuming it's agm batteries flooded requires higher voltage) we are talking about resistance related losses alone. And that's not the only losses u would get. There is heat related voltage loss.. Simply put what eventually hit your battery would not be enough to probably charge it. Lots of power is lost due to the PV getting hot especially when it's mounted on the roof. Panel can lose 10% of their power thanks to heat.. Most of this affects the PV voltage.

3 your mppt is pretty much useless with this arrangement. Might even be better served with a pwm. No extra voltage from your Pv to make mppt worth it. Would have been perfect if u go 3 series string. Sending 90v down the wire would reduce resistance, give enough buffer to properly charge your battery and bring your mppt controller to work. As long as your mppt can handle the voc its a no Brainer.

Also check your cabling and also do a check of each panel to be sure they are working. Change your panel arrangement to save your batteries.

You can limit maximum current some MPPT controller like MorningStar Tristar can output by changing the configuration. He might have done that to save your battery from excessive gassing due to too high charging current. 200AH battery can be charged at 60A but it's not ideal. 20A (C10) rate is optimum.

If you size output base on load, don't you think you risk damaging your battery when the anticipated load are not in use and sunshine is optimum?

Discuss with him if he limited it. If he did ask him to add another 200AH of battery and change the settings to btw 40 and 50A maximum.

NoMoreTrolling:


Think they are 10 200 watt panels, roof mounted on a one storey building. Unfortunately I don't know the direction.

Everything is still under warranty, so I can call the guy back if something is wrong somewhere.

He was saying that, solar amps harvested is dependent on the battery AH rating. i.e for a 200ah rating, he was saying the charge controller would never output more than 20amps (10% of 200AH), to preserve the life of the battery.

I on the other hand was arguing that the solar amps harvested should be depended on the load. So if I have a load that requires say 30amps, then it doesn't matter if my battery bank is 200ah. If the panels can supply that 30amps, then they should.

I don't know who is right here, me or him.

NoMoreTrolling:


Think they are 10 200 watt panels, roof mounted on a one storey building. Unfortunately I don't know the direction.

Everything is still under warranty, so I can call the guy back if something is wrong somewhere.

He was saying that, solar amps harvested is dependent on the battery AH rating. i.e for a 200ah rating, he was saying the charge controller would never output more than 20amps (10% of 200AH), to preserve the life of the battery.

I on the other hand was arguing that the solar amps harvested should be depended on the load. So if I have a load that requires say 30amps, then it doesn't matter if my battery bank is 200ah. If the panels can supply that 30amps, then they should.

I don't know who is right here, me or him.

It like you have more information, than the installer, just check the MPPT controller specs sheet or snap the picture and upload here..

PV output depends on the load/battery SOC that's basic...

If your battery bank is fully charged.. your load will draw current from the Panels, and if the load is not there then there is no harm charge controller know what to do, even PWM

Check if temperature sensor is connected to battery sometimes it's limit the maximum output, based on battery temperature settings.

Maximum PV output depends on
1. Sun intensity... Cloud factor
2. Temperature of the Panels
3. Note that there is difference between daylight and sun hours
Panels gets maximum current of up to 80- 100% by 11 to 1pm

mank1234:
You can limit maximum current some MPPT controller like MorningStar Tristar can output by changing the configuration. He might have done that to save your battery from excessive gassing due to too high charging current. 200AH battery can be charged at 60A but it's not ideal. 20A (C10) rate is optimum.

If you size output base on load, don't you think you risk damaging your battery when the anticipated load are not in use and sunshine is optimum?

Discuss with him if he limited it. If he did ask him to add another 200AH of battery and change the settings to btw 40 and 50A maximum.

It's all about smartly designed systems. My PV array can push out 50A to my 220ah 24v battery which is far from ideal. What I did is to break what goes into the battery using opportunity loads. A fridge and Freezer set to automatically start from 9am till 5pm will ensure that battery never gets charged more than 27ah during bulk, by 12pm when panel is able to push more than 27a into the battery (opportunity loads be damned) the battery is already in current limiting absorption charge stage.
The biggest problem with his setup is putting 2 panels in series. Such with never do more than surface charge his battery into an early grave. Little wonder he doesn't get any charge whatsoever once it's evening.

I still have these 2 charge controllers for sale.

1.Roysolar charge controller 12/24v 60amp

2. Roysolar 12/24v 20amp

Interested? Call/sms 08033735359

We did a video on Monitoring using the Conext Combox. Enjoy. We will be doing one with the Victron Color control very soon

http://atlanticwastepower.com/videos/


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6fvIJjEakE

Pls how much will It cost me to get the whole setup (solar panels inverter with two batteries)?

shogz89:
Pls how much will It cost me to get the whole setup (solar panels inverter with two batteries)?

Yes I love seeing prospective clients as it reminds me of how I ventured into my solar set-up... I like your courage...

Fell free to call-contact me for detailed enquiries & discounted prices !!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmrHfVm2h1s

Sir Frankie
Smartcell global services
081-350-319-51

kiekie1:


Something might be wrong somwer in your set up.. Send pictures of the mppt , wire guages in/out of the mppt .. 3×3 PV configuration is always best for 48v inverter systems ...Did you use a combiner box & mc4 connectors or he looped all the PV cables together ? If a combiner box was used, trouble shooting of PV array strings is always easier .. My mobile number is 24hours available for further enquiries ! Cheers

NOTE: In my set-up, its ground mounted due to the weak asbestos roofing sheet on the bungalow I intended using and trouble shooting "measuring individual panel voc/vmp/isc" is very easy for me.. In my storey building jobs,I always make use of improvised affordable combiner box with DC breakers.. Pending on mppt, mine stops charging -sleeps before 7pm most days ... See attached pics below ;

Thank you K.k, bigrovar, zeestone99 for your input regarding the setup.

I will call the contractor back to see if he can change the setup to 3X3 instead. I just didn't want to stand my ground then, because as they say, no one knows everything. So I figured I'd trust the guy that has done 100s of installs.

Here is the charge controller he bought, the first one he bought spoilt, so he had to replace it with this one.

The max PV voltage is usually like 60 something, but as soon as you load it, the pv voltage drops down to battery voltage, around 51-55v depending on the weather. It just doesn't seem right for MPPT.

Thanks again guys, may this thread and all our endeavors continue to blossom!

mank1234:
You can limit maximum current some MPPT controller like MorningStar Tristar can output by changing the configuration. He might have done that to save your battery from excessive gassing due to too high charging current. 200AH battery can be charged at 60A but it's not ideal. 20A (C10) rate is optimum.

If you size output base on load, don't you think you risk damaging your battery when the anticipated load are not in use and sunshine is optimum?

Discuss with him if he limited it. If he did ask him to add another 200AH of battery and change the settings to btw 40 and 50A maximum.

This is what I'm trying to wrap my head around.

Are you saying charge controllers aren't smart enough to regulate battery charge current while simultaneously providing load current?

That seems weird. I though if I needed 30 DC amps for a load, the C.C would provide the 30amps as long as the panels were capable of providing that power.

So in essence, the battery is not really being over charged, but the current is simply flowing to the load via the inverter. Still learning though, I will ask him about any kind of limit.

Dam5reey:


It like you have more information, than the installer, just check the MPPT controller specs sheet or snap the picture and upload here..

PV output depends on the load/battery SOC that's basic...

If your battery bank is fully charged.. your load will draw current from the Panels, and if the load is not there then there is no harm charge controller know what to do, even PWM

Check if temperature sensor is connected to battery sometimes it's limit the maximum output, based on battery temperature settings.

Maximum PV output depends on
1. Sun intensity... Cloud factor
2. Temperature of the Panels
3. Note that there is difference between daylight and sun hours
Panels gets maximum current of up to 80- 100% by 11 to 1pm

In Lagos, the sun sets at 6:40pm. So if you go outside by 6:15pm, there would still be light outside, but obviously not sunlight.

However, at 6:00pm, my C.C is showing 0amps. At least gimme 1amp na

I will note if there is any difference after the installer reconfigures the setup.

NoMoreTrolling:


Thank you K.k, bigrovar, zeestone99 for your input regarding the setup.

I will call the contractor back to see if he can change the setup to 3X3 instead. I just didn't want to stand my ground then, because as they say, no one knows everything. So I figured I'd trust the guy that has done 100s of installs.

Here is the charge controller he bought, the first one he bought spoilt, so he had to replace it with this one.

The max PV voltage is usually like 60 something, but as soon as you load it, the pv voltage drops down to battery voltage, around 51-55v depending on the weather. It just doesn't seem right for MPPT.

Thanks again guys, may this thread and all our endeavors continue to blossom!

Poor cabling(power loss inevitable) , secondly I dnt knw anytin abt dis controller, but den I remember a client of mine bought a controller himself wch mppt was written all over it. As soon as we loaded it above nominal voltage the controller beeped pv voltage overload. I tink u jst purchased one of those(I'm nt sure dis controller is true mppt, i might b wrong though), that cud b a reason for poor harvest.

At bulk stage, of charging the controller will output all power (current) it can squeeze out so long as it is within its currents limit. Without enough load to divert a part of this current, you risk damaging your battery in the long run

Good design for off-grid in southern Nigeria should follow this pattern:
1) determine daily consumption in kWHr.
2) design your panel and charge controller to deliver 120% of this using an average sunlight of 4-5hrs
3) determine what percentage of your consumption falls between 4pm and 8am (night)
4) size your battery to be 3 times the capacity determined in 3 above to take care of cloudy,hazy days.

NoMoreTrolling:


This is what I'm trying to wrap my head around.

Are you saying charge controllers aren't smart enough to regulate battery charge current while simultaneously providing load current?

That seems weird. I though if I needed 30 DC amps for a load, the C.C would provide the 30amps as long as the panels were capable of providing that power.

So in essence, the battery is not really being over charged, but the current is simply flowing to the load via the inverter. Still learning though, I will ask him about any kind of limit.

Example, if my daily consumption is 4kWHr, of which 3kWHr is at night, then:
Solar panel should be 1200W
Charge controller that can handle this is 40A MPPT @ 24V or 80A @ 12V
3 days night energy need is 9000WHr. Which is equivalent to 375AH battery @ 24V or 750AH battery @ 12V. (Actually 400AH/800AH to take care of inverting inefficiencies.
Inverter to be used will be determined by maximum instantaneous load.

If my night load were to be 1.5kWHr instead of 3kWHr, battery will then be 200AH/400AH.

Let me correct a misconception here . . .
Take for example a 40A mppt controller on a 600W array connected to just a single 12V 100Ah battery
On a very good day, during bulk charging the array is capable of pushing out 25-30 Amps
But we all know it is best to charge batteries at one-tenth capacity (C10) i.e. in this example 10A;
So your controller is pushing 30A, which is an overkill for the battery.
Most people, like the poster above me, believe you can add or turn on some load to reduce the current entering the battery.
This is a misconception and why is so?
1. The PV array does not directly power any load connected to the inverter/battery bank.
2. What happens is that the battery is discharging and charging at the same time albeit very fast.
3. If for example, the total load turned on is 100W; and the PV is producing 150W; what happens is that the load
will draw 100W from the battery (discharge); and at the same time the PV will pump in 100W (recharge) to the battery
to replace what is lost and 50W is used to keep the battery in float (if it is already in float);
or used to keep charging the battery if it isn't yet in float

SO back to our example, what if the CC is delivering 30A on a c10 rated battery . .
if you like turn on all the load in the world; what is happening is that . . the CC is still sending in 30A to your battery
and in turn your battery is powering the loads connected, be it 10A, 20A, 2A, 100A
If the CC amp is greater than the load, the battery stays charged up
if the load amps is greater than CC amp, the battery will start discharging even while being connected to solar.

Thanks

Hello House, I have been following this thread for long and i give kudos to all members for the enlightment so far, i want to Install a Solar System to Complement PHCN and Here are My Loads wattage Below , Please Kindly Advice on Nos of Panel and Batteries , I was thinking 800w, 40A pwm , and 4 Pcs , 12v 100AH, 24v 1.2/1.5kv inverter. Please all the expert kindly advise me .Also any reliable Installer that can give after installation service at ibadan.
.'


Refrigerator watts = WattHours =60w ........ for 5hours...................300w/hr
Television watts = WattHours = 70w.......For 8 hours daily............ 560w/hr
DVD home theatre WattHours = 110.......For 7 hours daily............ 770w/hr
House lights led watts = WattHours= 65w... for 6 hours daily........... 390w/hr
House lights others watts = WattHours= 120w... for 2 hours daily........... 240w/hr
Computer system = WattHours = 65w....... For 6 Hours daily........... 390w/hr
Misc items watts = WattHours = 50w ..... For 2 Hours daily........... 100w/hr

Summary of WattHours required
Total daily WattHours required = 2750w/hr

makavele:

Most people, like the poster above me, believe you can add or turn on some load to reduce the current entering the battery.

Sorry, I had to quote you. That's not how electricity works. The battery only sees the net current flow, which is the difference of what it takes minus what it gives. So you're very safe if you as I postulated. Things only get wrong if your your load gets disconnected.

Let's even look at it from a lay an point of view: take the battery to be a container with 2 openings - inlet and outlet. If you put 2 litres of water into the containtand takes out 1 litre, as far as the container is concern, you're adding 1 litre. What happens outside the container is irrelevant to the container.

fernado56:
Hello House, I have been following this thread for long and i give kudos to all members for the enlightment so far, i want to Install a Solar System to Complement PHCN and Here are My Loads wattage Below , Please Kindly Advice on Nos of Panel and Batteries , I was thinking 800w, 40A pwm , and 4 Pcs , 12v 100AH, 24v 1.2/1.5kv inverter. Please all the expert kindly advise me .Also any reliable Installer that can give after installation service at ibadan.
.'


Refrigerator watts = WattHours =60w ........ for 5hours...................300w/hr
Television watts = WattHours = 70w.......For 8 hours daily............ 560w/hr
DVD home theatre WattHours = 110.......For 7 hours daily............ 770w/hr
House lights led watts = WattHours= 65w... for 6 hours daily........... 390w/hr
House lights others watts = WattHours= 120w... for 2 hours daily........... 240w/hr
Computer system = WattHours = 65w....... For 6 Hours daily........... 390w/hr
Misc items watts = WattHours = 50w ..... For 2 Hours daily........... 100w/hr

Summary of WattHours required
Total daily WattHours required = 2750w/hr

In my opinion, you're good. Since you're using PWM, be sure your arrangement of the panels matches 24V.

I checked online and the Yohako MPPT CC appears to be rated at input VoC 96v and max current 80a - this is probably the reason why your installer used a 2 panels in series config for you.

The challenge is now that this controller is mismatched for your application as you are using a 48v nominal system. MPPT requires some 'voltage headroom' to operate properly e.g a 48v nominal system will charge batteries anywhere from 56v to 62v (allowing for desulfation voltages) - at the panel side you will need at least 90volts to give sufficient headroom for the Charge Controller to 'boost' current and realise MPPT benefits - with 24v nominal panels, you need a minimum of 3 panels in series to achieve a useable MPPT voltage range for a 48v nominal battery bank - unfortunately, you will fry the Yohako at this voltage level.

Its either you switch to a 24v inverter and keep the Yohako as is OR you set your panels as 3 in series and change to a different controller capable of at least 150vdc e.g Chinco EP Solar/Fangpusun or the venerable MorningStar or Midnite Solar, Magnum e.t.c

As it is now you have an MPPT CC but operating like or worse than a PWM because it is not suitable for your application

You still have to ensure your panels face either South or West or East (some folks on here do North but I have no idea how that works) in that order of preference, your panel mount tilt/angle is relatively flat, no shading on the panels, properly sized cables e.t.c to be sure you have captured all angles.

But clearly, it appears your issue is a poorly designed/mismatched system and you will need some tweaking to get it right.

NoMoreTrolling:


Thank you K.k, bigrovar, zeestone99 for your input regarding the setup.

I will call the contractor back to see if he can change the setup to 3X3 instead. I just didn't want to stand my ground then, because as they say, no one knows everything. So I figured I'd trust the guy that has done 100s of installs.

Here is the charge controller he bought, the first one he bought spoilt, so he had to replace it with this one.

The max PV voltage is usually like 60 something, but as soon as you load it, the pv voltage drops down to battery voltage, around 51-55v depending on the weather. It just doesn't seem right for MPPT.

Thanks again guys, may this thread and all our endeavors continue to blossom!

mank1234:


Sorry, I had to quote you. That's not how electricity works. The battery only sees the net current flow, which is the difference of what it takes minus what it gives. So you're very safe if you as I postulated. Things only get wrong if your your load gets disconnected.

Let's even look at it from a lay an point of view: take the battery to be a container with 2 openings - inlet and outlet. If you put 2 litres of water into the containtand takes out 1 litre, as far as the container is concern, you're adding 1 litre. What happens outside the container is irrelevant to the container.

Your analogy is seriously flawed because unlike a container, a battery has only 1 opening . .
the same opening for inward and outward current . . .
Current must flow to load first; and be replenished by solar array (when under load)
Or no current flows to load, and current is received by solar array (when idle and charging)
so when 30A flows to load, for example, and solar pumps in 40A back . . . current flowing into the "opening" is still 40A;
(which will kill a typical 100Ah or even 200Ah battery over time) and not 10A
Best bet is to increase battery bank
You garrit ?

That's so wrong! What will an ammeter placed before the battery read? 10A or 30A or 40A?
It will definitely read 10A.

That place before the inverter will read 30A, that after the controller will read 40A.

The inbuilt diversion mode of some controller with that feature works this way in principle.

makavele:


Your analogy is seriously flawed because unlike a container, a battery has only 1 opening . .
the same opening for inward and outward current . . .
Current must flow to load first; and be replenished by solar array (when under load)
Or no current flows to load, and current is received by solar array (when idle and charging)
so when 30A flows to load, for example, and solar pumps in 40A back . . . current flowing into the "opening" is still 40A;
(which will kill a typical 100Ah or even 200Ah battery over time) and not 10A
Best bet is to increase battery bank
You garrit ?

Please what brand/name is this inverter and how can I get one?

Also what is the max charging amps?

I want to gift it to a family member this festive season

Saipro:


My backup home inverter with specs 24V 1.5kVA (980W) with good overload and surge handling capabilities and reasonably low idle consumption has a 40A DC breaker fitted into the the input circuitry. The breaker doesn't trip with surge loads like compressors and motors but will do so with irons and heating elements. Instant cut-off. Occurs before the inbuilt overload circuitry trip-off has a chance to activate. Happens once or twice a week when someone forgets we're on "night mode". Reset the breaker and life continues.

I don't know of any brand which currently suffers due to DC input interruption. Inverters are buit rugged like that.

mank1234:
That's so wrong! What will an ammeter placed before the battery read? 10A or 30A or 40A?
It will definitely read 10A.

That place before the inverter will read 30A, that after the controller will read 40A.

The inbuilt diversion mode of some controller with that feature works this way in principle.

I do not like guesswork.
Please place an ammeter between charge controller and battery bank;
and let us know what you get,
Then place between battery bank and inverter and let us know what you get too . .
before you do this, please ensure the CC is supplying more than the c10 or c20 current
thanks

NoMoreTrolling:


In Lagos, the sun sets at 6:40pm. So if you go outside by 6:15pm, there would still be light outside, but obviously not sunlight.

However, at 6:00pm, my C.C is showing 0amps. At least gimme 1amp na

I will note if there is any difference after the installer reconfigures the setup.

By 6pm your PV voltage will be lower than battery voltage hence 0 Amp

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please what brand/name is this inverter and how can I get one?

Also what is the max charging amps?

I want to gift it to a family member this festive season

Lol

fernado56:
Hello House, I have been following this thread for long and i give kudos to all members for the enlightment so far, i want to Install a Solar System to Complement PHCN and Here are My Loads wattage Below , Please Kindly Advice on Nos of Panel and Batteries , I was thinking 800w, 40A pwm , and 4 Pcs , 12v 100AH, 24v 1.2/1.5kv inverter. Please all the expert kindly advise me .Also any reliable Installer that can give after installation service at ibadan.
.'


Refrigerator watts = WattHours =60w ........ for 5hours...................300w/hr
Television watts = WattHours = 70w.......For 8 hours daily............ 560w/hr
DVD home theatre WattHours = 110.......For 7 hours daily............ 770w/hr
House lights led watts = WattHours= 65w... for 6 hours daily........... 390w/hr
House lights others watts = WattHours= 120w... for 2 hours daily........... 240w/hr
Computer system = WattHours = 65w....... For 6 Hours daily........... 390w/hr
Misc items watts = WattHours = 50w ..... For 2 Hours daily........... 100w/hr

Summary of WattHours required
Total daily WattHours required = 2750w/hr

Contact :
See signature for mobile number !