earthrealm:


ok, good we are on the same page now, 13% of 200ah = 26amps. 13% of 220amps = 29amps.
the batts claims to be 220ah. will dial back the knob to 50% or 26amps....and see if it makes any difference over time to my standy ffully charged voltage

bigrovar:


The 3 stage charge are Bulk, Absorption and Float. In the bulk stage every current available to the charger goes into the battery.. This is where the user has to be careful, you have to ensure you limit the current going to your battery to the recommended battery current set limit (usually set by the manufacturer) but generally 10-13% of C20 Capacity of the battery (for fla). What this means is that a 200ah fla battery should not be charged at current more than 20AH (in the bulk stage of charge) if a charger sends in 30ah to a 200ah fla battery then 10ah of the current is wasted and often times converted to heat.. causing the battery to boil and wearing off the plates. It can also lead to surface charge. AGM is much more tolerant of high current charge even in bulk stage.

pitodenz:
Anybody used Exulted Eagle batteries how good re they any recommendations?
I saw they have 150,180 n 220A am thinking of going for their 220A

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Everything Oga BigRovar has said just reinforces my conviction that flooded batteries are not suitable for solar RE applications or if they are to be used, one has to plan his charge and discharge and battery bank size very carefully.

The goal of every solar power user I have ever met is to squeeze out every last ounce of juice from his PV panels to satisfy the demands of his loads and push maximum amount of power into his batteries within the limited time frame of 1 solar charging day.

At some point in my journey with flooded batteries I throttled my charging output to 45amps when my PV panels could put out 75amps - this worked until there was no one at home to use any appliances for a while and then most of the amps would still make it to my batteries and boil them - I was not ready to be adjusting my CC amps limit on a regular basis and it made even less sense to me to just put on equipment loads I did not need just to take up the excess solar power. I remember when I kept complaining about my batteries boiling my Madam advised to leave one AC permanently on in the house and I said a point blank NO.

Give me a good Lithium or AGM or GEL any day and they will take a charge rate at 20 to 35% of their AH capacity without breaking a sweat. Heck I hear you can even charge Lithium from nearly empty to full within 1 or 2 hours.

NiyiOmoIyunade:

Give me a good Lithium or AGM or GEL any day and they will take a charge rate at 20 to 35% of their AH capacity without breaking a sweat. Heck I hear you can even charge Lithium from nearly empty to full within 1 or 2 hours.

chris81964:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lql7dyL_EtE

Ijeoma660:
My surprise is not just about my tripping breakers alone as you all are right about breaker undersized capacity. Intact the first thing too on my mind was solar flares. Wikipedia to the rescue.

My main issue is that my CC is rated as 3KW, 60A mppt CC.
At 581w I am already having 42Amps.

What's gonna happen at the 3kw mark?

pranil:


Can you please elaborate more on batteries shutting down at 32 DEG. ( I heard it in the video)
MY BYD batteries are happily offering full rated capacity( design discharge current limit of 0.7C even at 40 DEG)

But I remember one of the Victron dealers suggesting that they do not bring in Victron Lithium as Nigeria temperatures are too high for them

My temp of the inverter room regularly hits 40 DEG

Attached below is the graph of the temp monitor placed outside the BYD box. My cabinet is not even force cooled so the bank will be at higher temperatures. I have attached photos of inside and the manufacturer's photo of the cabinet ( too late to snap a photo)

Ijeoma660:
My surprise is not just about my tripping breakers alone as you all are right about breaker undersized capacity. Intact the first thing too on my mind was solar flares. Wikipedia to the rescue.

My main issue is that my CC is rated as 3KW, 60A mppt CC.
At 581w I am already having 42Amps.

What's gonna happen at the 3kw mark?

Dam5reey:


You cant it 3kw on 12V system...

Your CC is simply rated 3kw at 48V system, Cheers.

sharks776:
Hello, I NEED SOME URGENT ADVICE PLEASE.
I have a 1.5kva 24v inverter (safe power, problem free 3yrs and counting ) with two quanta 12v 200ah batteries I use. I also have a 6pcs of PV 130w each in 2x3 with a 40a 24v must solar mppt charge controller.
The issue is my batteries are weak (3yrs 2months), they don't last longer than 4hrs with just a ceiling fan on at night or day. Sometime s we go 2-3days without light in my area .So am thinking of getting a hybrid inverter of either 2kva or 3kva, so at least I can still light straight from the PV's during the day before I can finally change the batteries. I hope its a good idea and what type of hybrid inverter will be best?

sharks776:
Hello, I NEED SOME URGENT ADVICE PLEASE.
I have a 1.5kva 24v inverter (safe power, problem free 3yrs and counting ) with two quanta 12v 200ah batteries I use. I also have a 6pcs of PV 130w each in 2x3 with a 40a 24v must solar mppt charge controller.
The issue is my batteries are weak (3yrs 2months), they don't last longer than 4hrs with just a ceiling fan on at night or day. Sometime s we go 2-3days without light in my area .So am thinking of getting a hybrid inverter of either 2kva or 3kva, so at least I can still light straight from the PV's during the day before I can finally change the batteries. I hope its a good idea and what type of hybrid inverter will be best?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Based on what you have represented below; you already have a charge controller which by all accounts is functioning well and also you have a trouble free inverter.

As it appears you are not ready to change your batteries yet, an 'Hybrid Inverter' may not help you at all as it merely combines the solar charge controller and inverter feature in one single box. The Hybrid Inverter still needs batteries to function except it is a grid tie inverter you have in mind and going that route will very likely be more complicated and costly than a simple battery change.

Assuming your MustPower charge controller is functioning well, power generated from your PV panels will be directed first towards your loads then any excess power will go to charging the batteries - what I'm trying to say is that what you already have should be achieving your objective unless I am missing something?

For your batteries, they have done well to last 3 years especially as 6*130watts panels would not have been enough to charge them properly unless your loads are very low or you are getting PHCN or Gen to complete the charge. Have you checked the battery voltages when your inverter low battery alarm goes off? You may be able to identify a weak battery that may be recovered with a few complete/proper charge cycles.

Please revert with further details and we can take things further.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
What brand of desulfator are you using? PowerPulse, BLS or something else?

sharks776:


Thanks your response. What I have is a grid tide inverter. The charge controller supplement whenever the Grid is down (I hate generators). Pls see sketch below. the reason I want a hybrid inverter is just so I could get power for my appliances straight from the PV during the day.
My multimeter is misbehaving, will get another one tomorrow God willing so I can test the individual batteries.

Oshomo12:


...

NOTE: where d hell is Makavele when u need him?

sharks776:


Thanks your response. What I have is a grid tide inverter. The charge controller supplement whenever the Grid is down (I hate generators). Pls see sketch below. the reason I want a hybrid inverter is just so I could get power for my appliances straight from the PV during the day.
My multimeter is misbehaving, will get another one tomorrow God willing so I can test the individual batteries.

Oshomo12:


I want to belief it's not a grid tie (maybe u meant an inverter that uses the grid to charge ur batteries). Grid tie inverter supplies directly to the grid, aka Phcn. Just as @NiyiomoIyunade said, ur batteries are quite strong to have last this long(6 of 130 w panaels can't just cut it! a little small to charge those batteries well).
My brother, go and buy new panels before u think of replacing those batteries fa! And No, u don't need hybrid inverter, cos u have one in conjuction with your controller already.

NOTE: where d hell is Makavele when u need him?

sharks776:


Thanks for the correction, I actually mean my inverter uses grid to charge and the charge controller is also connected to the batteries (charges it when the grid is down). 130watts PV ain't easy to come by around here, can I mix with a different watt e.g 300w.

makavele:


Brah Matiu, you are not permitted to do so.

Do it and you'll essentially have 130 + 130 Watts instead of 300 + 130 Watts

lol

davodyguy:
Hello guys. Urgent need your advice on this

1. I have this 1000 watts invert, 12v
2. Bought two numbers 200amps Gennex batteries since April, 2017 and it was connected in parallel form to keep with the 12v rating of the inverter

3. Today, I decided to do Solar, so I bought 2 numbers 300watts Solar pa Nels and now have 600watts Solar panels
4. The charge controller is 40a E smart Mptt
5. Connection was completed around 6:00pm, so the panel couldn't send a charge.

What we noticed is that despite not loading the batteries at all, the icon on the display screen is constantly showing a discharge. I.e signal keeps going to the bulb on the screen showing a discharge sign.

Though no clamp meter to check is current is actually flowing out, but this lives me confused as to what's going on.

I need advice so I don't regret investing in this.

Thanks all

sharks776:


Thanks for the correction, I actually mean my inverter uses grid to charge and the charge controller is also connected to the batteries (charges it when the grid is down). 130watts PV ain't easy to come by around here, can I mix with a different watt e.g 300w.