Below are the details:

At speeds below 50km/h

and cruising car at gear 3

Slowed down briefly for a poth hole

After passing poth hole

I expect the gear to downshift to 2, but gear goes to neutral for like 7 secs before getting back to appropriate gear. I know gear goes to neutral because rpm goes up when gas pedal is pressed.

Car has been scanned severally and no code came up.

Note that this does not happen when travelling at higher speeds.car does pretty well at higher speeds.
Tranny oil is ok upon inspection. I use type t4 (pinkish red, smells like syrup etc)


My kazeems suggest I clean the transmission filter

I dont want to touch nothing except I seek advice from the numerous informed car gurus here on NL.

Car is camry 2005

Pls help a bro.

Thank you.

Seems like a shift solenoid issue. I think a dirty filter should manifest at all times especially during a cold start. Which type of scanner was used for scanning?

cyborg123:
Seems like a shift solenoid issue. I think a dirty filter should manifest at all times especially during a cold start. Which type of scanner was used for scanning?

OBD II scanner

If the shaft solenoid is the culprit then is it replaceable?
Why didnt the scanner detect it?

Have your gear selector cable checked first

mayor2013:
Have your gear selector cable checked first

It has never been checked.
I will have it checked.

sidimaruf:


OBD II scanner

If the shaft solenoid is the culprit then is it replaceable?
Why didnt the scanner detect it?

There are different types of OBD II scanner. Some can not detect transmission codes.

I expect more input from the experts but I think solenoids are replaceable.

cyborg123:

There are different types of OBD II scanner. Some can not detect transmission codes.

I expect more input from the experts but I think solenoids are replaceable.

Yes sire...they’re are replaceable.

mayor2013:
Have your gear selector cable checked first

Sir, I have checked the cable selector, it is ok.
Car drives fine, just that when I apply brake to slow down to anything less than 50km/h
Upon pressing the throttle again I expect the gear to have already downshifted to like 2 or 1, but transmission goes to neutral for few seconds making the rpm go up


Problem still persist. Car Gurus help me here biko

Open up bottom tray check condition of transmission strainer

mayor2013:
Open up bottom tray check condition of transmission strainer

Thank u.
Is it the same thing as transmission filter?

Can I open the bottom tray right away or leave it to cool a bit

sidimaruf:

Thank u.
Is it the same thing as transmission filter?

Can I open the bottom tray right away or leave it to cool a bit

Warning!!! do not do this while hot. At least allow for 24hrs if tranny is hot.

N.B : do this at your own risk

sidimaruf:


Sir, I have checked the cable selector, it is ok.
Car drives fine, just that when I apply brake to slow down to anything less than 50km/h
Upon pressing the throttle again I expect the gear to have already downshifted to like 2 or 1, but transmission goes to neutral for few seconds making the rpm go up


Problem still persist. Car Gurus help me here biko

Nothing should concern range cable with this problem.

DO NOT touch anything inside that gear. I think it is just a computer calibration playing games with your mind. To confirm this, drive uphill and let the car slow down on its own without using the brakes. If what you described doesn't happen, it is calibration.

Kashif:


Nothing should concern range cable with this problem.

DO NOT touch anything inside that gear. I think it is just a computer calibration playing games with your mind. To confirm this, drive uphill and let the car slow down on its own without using the brakes. If what you described doesn't happen, it is calibration.

Thanks for u input.

U r right, that issue do not happen when driving uphill-like road, or any hill.

But it happens when decending with legs on brake & slowing down hill-like road, or any hill. Any moment I put my foot on throttle after getting down from such road, tranny seems to be in neutral for some secs and car revs high.

sidimaruf:


Thanks for u input.

U r right, that issue do not happen when driving uphill-like road, or any hill.

But it happens when decending with legs on brake & slowing down hill-like road, or any hill. Any moment I put my foot on throttle after getting down from such road, tranny seems to be in neutral for some secs and car revs high.

Then nothing is wrong with your gear. It is just calibration that kicks in once you apply brakes at lower speeds, as it tries to improve fuel efficiency. It just waits for your throttle input to know which range to select. If you go heavy on throttle, it makes decision more quickly.

Just enjoy your ride.

Kashif:


Then nothing is wrong with your gear. It is just calibration that kicks in once you apply brakes at lower speeds, as it tries to improve fuel efficiency. It just waits for your throttle input to know which range to select. If you go heavy on throttle, it makes decision more quickly.

Just enjoy your ride.

What calibration are we talking about here. Definitely not on this ride. @ op get a bidirectional scan tool visit a competent workshop and let them monitor your transmission performance using actual values. Through this you would be able to tell if your transmission shifts properly. If you don't know how and you get a professional scan tool. I can put you through

mayor2013:
Have your gear selector cable checked first

mayor2013:
Open up bottom tray check condition of transmission strainer

mayor2013:


Warning!!! do not do this while hot. At least allow for 24hrs if tranny is hot.

N.B : do this at your own risk

mayor2013:


What calibration are we talking about here. Definitely not on this ride. @ op get a bidirectional scan tool visit a competent workshop and let them monitor your transmission performance using actual values. Through this you would be able to tell if your transmission shifts properly. If you don't know how and you get a professional scan tool. I can put you through

Chief, first you said check cable, then you said filter, and now bidirectional scanner. On top one issue? What do you reckon they should monitor with the scanner biko?

OP has confirmed what I suspected and IMO, he does not need further diagnosis. If you want me to go deeper into calibration for info, and not argument, I would be happy to do that.

Shalom.

mayor2013:


What calibration are we talking about here. Definitely not on this ride. @ op get a bidirectional scan tool visit a competent workshop and let them monitor your transmission performance using actual values. Through this you would be able to tell if your transmission shifts properly. If you don't know how and you get a professional scan tool. I can put you through

Did you just quote Nairaland's transmission specialist, on a matter on transmission, and you didn't get enough back up info too? My man...

sidimaruf:
Below are the details:

At speeds below 50km/h

and cruising car at gear 3

Slowed down briefly for a poth hole

After passing poth hole

I expect the gear to downshift to 2, but gear goes to neutral for like 7 secs before getting back to appropriate gear. I know gear goes to neutral because rpm goes up when gas pedal is pressed.

Car has been scanned severally and no code came up.

Note that this does not happen when travelling at higher speeds.car does pretty well at higher speeds.
Tranny oil is ok upon inspection. I use type t4 (pinkish red, smells like syrup etc)


My kazeems suggest I clean the transmission filter

I dont want to touch nothing except I seek advice from the numerous informed car gurus here on NL.

Car is camry 2005

Pls help a bro.

Thank you.

I am not a gear guru, but i dont sense a problem in all you have just said. If on speed and you further depress the gas pedal, does the rpm go up or remains static? In that case, would you say the gear went to neutral first?

Most of these kazeems basically draws inference based on assumptions. Listen to Kashif and dont turn your gear into a practical specimen.

Well what do i even know?

Kashif:





Chief, first you said check cable, then you said filter, and now bidirectional scanner. On top one issue? What do you reckon they should monitor with the scanner biko?

OP has confirmed what I suspected and IMO, he does not need further diagnosis. If you want me to go deeper into calibration for info, and not argument, I would be happy to do that.

Shalom.

Nothing is impossible. Have treated a case like that on a Honda Accord and it turned out to be the selector so his can't be an exception. That's a good question the shift status, performance and clutch lock up status and many more can be monitored using the scan tool. Whenever I install a toks gearbox That I use very well and it's been the best way without been biased. The "op" might just not have any problem with this.

oluwaseunla:


Did you just quote Nairaland's transmission specialist, on a matter on transmission, and you didn't get enough back up info too? My man...

What solution have you proferred rather than follow " them say them say". All I say is a professional scan tool can be used to monitor transmission shift performance. Simple as A,B,C . Nothing too much

mayor2013:


What solution have you proferred rather than follow " them say them say". All I say is a professional scan tool can be used to monitor transmission shift performance. Simple as A,B,C . Nothing too much

Of course, a scan tool can be used to monitor shift performance. But again, check the signs the man gave on the car. Decide if this has anything to do with 'the shift status, performance and clutch lock up status' like you said.

You talk of proferring solutions, at least don't mislead the poor guy. And you were so sure that you have to say, concerning calibration in this particular case that it is 'definitely not on this ride'. Seriously sir?

Did you even read his reply to the questions he was asked?

oluwaseunla:


Of course, a scan tool can be used to monitor shift performance. But again, check the signs the man gave on the car. Decide if this has anything to do with 'the shift status, performance and clutch lock up status' like you said.

You talk of proferring solutions, at least don't mislead the poor guy. And you were so sure that you have to say, concerning calibration in this particular case that it is 'definitely not on this ride'. Seriously sir?

Did you even read his reply to the questions he was asked?

What's misleading about what have written up there if I may ask. I wouldn't know the calibration yet. Maybe oga Kashif can enlighten me more on this for a Camry 2005. I need to learn

Haba! Una no dey sleep?

mayor2013:


What's misleading about what have written up there if I may ask. I wouldn't know the calibration yet. Maybe oga Kashif can enlighten me more on this for a Camry 2005. I need to learn

Calibration is programming or more specifically, strategy in this case. It is in the 'brainbox' programming.

It is a way automobile manufacturers integrate/drive automatic transmissions. That is why you can see same transmission behaving differently in different brands. For instance Aisin transmission in VW and Volvo will behave differently. In some models of Volvo, once you stop for X number of times within X distance, without exceeding X speed, the car automatically switches to Traffic mode. In this mode, it will start in 2 and will delay upshifts. There are many manufacturer-specific strategies like that. ZFs can be programmed in tonnes of ways.

Other strategies could restrict shift when it senses the vehicle is making a bend. This is where it is very important that the same size of tires are installed and inflated equally at all times. Once there is a difference, the vehicle thinks you are in a bend, and you are stuck in a range.

In this Toyota case, it is something I know, and only needed the OP to confirm. It should be noted that the delays are typically 2-3 seconds, depending on how light you go on throttle after applying brakes. If you don't touch the brakes, it stays away. His complaint about 7 seconds is just a psychology thing, as it looks like eternity, especially if you are coming from another vehicle that doesn't deploy this strategy. At lower speeds and brakes are applied, the computer commands the gear to neutral, and will select based on what your TPS tells it. Unfortunately, the computer is just too slow at doing this job well. It can be annoying, but that's the way it is. Like I said before, the heavier you go on the throttle after braking, the quicker the downshift. The reason it doesn't happen at higher speeds is because the computer already knows that a downshift is not likely.

Hope this helps in understanding why a similar symptom in a Honda (or any other brand) could be caused by something entirely different.

scarplanet:


I am not a gear guru, but i dont sense a problem in all you have just said. If on speed and you further depress the gas pedal, does the rpm go up or remains static? In that case, would you say the gear went to neutral first?

Most of these kazeems basically draws inference based on assumptions. Listen to Kashif and dont turn your gear into a practical specimen.

Well what do i even know?

Ans to ur question: The rpm will first be static and later go down gradually as speed decreases.


The issue is whenever I have the cause to drive below 50kmph or slow down to 50kmph (with legs on brake), and later I need to mover faster, I press the throttle hoping the car will surge forward, but it will just rev up for some secs before selecting the normal gear.

Thank you

Kashif:


Calibration is programming or more specifically, strategy in this case. It is in the 'brainbox' programming.

It is a way automobile manufacturers integrate/drive automatic transmissions. That is why you can see same transmission behaving differently in different brands. For instance Aisin transmission in VW and Volvo will behave differently. In some models of Volvo, once you stop for X number of times within X distance, without exceeding X speed, the car automatically switches to Traffic mode. In this mode, it will start in 2 and will delay upshifts. There are many manufacturer-specific strategies like that. ZFs can be programmed in tonnes of ways.

Other strategies could restrict shift when it senses the vehicle is making a bend. This is where it is very important that the same size of tires are installed and inflated equally at all times. Once there is a difference, the vehicle thinks you are in a bend, and you are stuck in a range.

In this Toyota case, it is something I know, and only needed the OP to confirm. It should be noted that the delays are typically 2-3 seconds, depending on how light you go on throttle after applying brakes. If you don't touch the brakes, it stays away. His complaint about 7 seconds is just a psychology thing, as it looks like eternity, especially if you are coming from another vehicle that doesn't deploy this strategy. At lower speeds and brakes are applied, the computer commands the gear to neutral, and will select based on what your TPS tells it. Unfortunately, the computer is just too slow at doing this job well. It can be annoying, but that's the way it is. Like I said before, the heavier you go on the throttle after braking, the quicker the downshift. The reason it doesn't happen at higher speeds is because the computer already knows that a downshift is not likely.

Hope this helps in understanding why a similar symptom in a Honda (or any other brand) could be caused by something entirely different.

I expected you to narrow it down to Toyota sir. I know the likes of Volvo, benz, BMW but for a Camry 2005 what actually are you calibrating when there no TCM. Signals are only picked from the pcm

Kashif:


Calibration is programming or more specifically, strategy in this case. It is in the 'brainbox' programming.

It is a way automobile manufacturers integrate/drive automatic transmissions. That is why you can see same transmission behaving differently in different brands. For instance Aisin transmission in VW and Volvo will behave differently. In some models of Volvo, once you stop for X number of times within X distance, without exceeding X speed, the car automatically switches to Traffic mode. In this mode, it will start in 2 and will delay upshifts. There are many manufacturer-specific strategies like that. ZFs can be programmed in tonnes of ways.

Other strategies could restrict shift when it senses the vehicle is making a bend. This is where it is very important that the same size of tires are installed and inflated equally at all times. Once there is a difference, the vehicle thinks you are in a bend, and you are stuck in a range.

In this Toyota case, it is something I know, and only needed the OP to confirm. It should be noted that the delays are typically 2-3 seconds, depending on how light you go on throttle after applying brakes. If you don't touch the brakes, it stays away. His complaint about 7 seconds is just a psychology thing, as it looks like eternity, especially if you are coming from another vehicle that doesn't deploy this strategy. At lower speeds and brakes are applied, the computer commands the gear to neutral, and will select based on what your TPS tells it. Unfortunately, the computer is just too slow at doing this job well. It can be annoying, but that's the way it is. Like I said before, the heavier you go on the throttle after braking, the quicker the downshift. The reason it doesn't happen at higher speeds is because the computer already knows that a downshift is not likely.

Hope this helps in understanding why a similar symptom in a Honda (or any other brand) could be caused by something entirely different.

You know sir, In my first post on this thread I deliberately left out the part of what i feel when going uphill or down hill, hoping someone will mention it as part of the symptoms. And you did.

The thing is that the issue started not too long. Car is just three months old. Bought it in Dec 2017, tokunbo.

Thank you.

Kashif:


Calibration is programming or more specifically, strategy in this case. It is in the 'brainbox' programming.

It is a way automobile manufacturers integrate/drive automatic transmissions. That is why you can see same transmission behaving differently in different brands. For instance Aisin transmission in VW and Volvo will behave differently. In some models of Volvo, once you stop for X number of times within X distance, without exceeding X speed, the car automatically switches to Traffic mode. In this mode, it will start in 2 and will delay upshifts. There are many manufacturer-specific strategies like that. ZFs can be programmed in tonnes of ways.

Other strategies could restrict shift when it senses the vehicle is making a bend. This is where it is very important that the same size of tires are installed and inflated equally at all times. Once there is a difference, the vehicle thinks you are in a bend, and you are stuck in a range.

In this Toyota case, it is something I know, and only needed the OP to confirm. It should be noted that the delays are typically 2-3 seconds, depending on how light you go on throttle after applying brakes. If you don't touch the brakes, it stays away. His complaint about 7 seconds is just a psychology thing, as it looks like eternity, especially if you are coming from another vehicle that doesn't deploy this strategy. At lower speeds and brakes are applied, the computer commands the gear to neutral, and will select based on what your TPS tells it. Unfortunately, the computer is just too slow at doing this job well. It can be annoying, but that's the way it is. Like I said before, the heavier you go on the throttle after braking, the quicker the downshift. The reason it doesn't happen at higher speeds is because the computer already knows that a downshift is not likely.

Hope this helps in understanding why a similar symptom in a Honda (or any other brand) could be caused by something entirely different.

You know sir, In my first post on this thread I deliberately left out the part of what i feel when going uphill or down hill, hoping someone will mention it as part of the symptoms. And you did.

The thing is that the issue started not too long. Car is just three months old. Bought it in Dec 2017, tokunbo.

Thank you.

mayor2013:


What calibration are we talking about here. Definitely not on this ride. @ op get a bidirectional scan tool visit a competent workshop and let them monitor your transmission performance using actual values. Through this you would be able to tell if your transmission shifts properly. If you don't know how and you get a professional scan tool. I can put you through

Sir, by actual values, do you mean we hook up a scanner to the car while test driving it? Pls explain more. I want to try that and see the results

Modified.........ps include the type of scanner to be used.

mayor2013:


I expected you to narrow it down to Toyota sir. I know the likes of Volvo, benz, BMW but for a Camry 2005 what actually are you calibrating when there no TCM. Signals are only picked from the pcm

My fourth paragraph is on Toyota, go back and read it again.

I am surprised you are asking this basic question about calibration. So you think whatever in automobile's name that controls the transmission is not calibrated by the designers? You don't know it runs a software? Did I say a mechanic does the calibration? Is it about semantics now? Have you ever worked with a blank ECU/PCM before?

It is better you say you don't know, and then learn, instead of just arguing for the sake of it. Well, did you know that this transmission in question (in this Camry) actually has two 3rd gear ranges, and selects one depending on pressure? Technically, it has 6 speeds! The details are too technical for this discuss.

sidimaruf:




You know sir, In my first post on this thread I deliberately left out the part of what i feel when going uphill or down hill, hoping someone will mention it as part of the symptoms. And you did.

The thing is that the issue started not too long. Car is just three months old. Bought it in Dec 2017, tokunbo.

Thank you.

Bro, I can assure you nothing is wrong with your car, unless you have other symptoms. You may not have noticed it before now, as car is still relatively new to you.

Now, drive it like this and report your finding:- after you slow down to where you would normally experience this, press the throttle harder and see if you get this long delay.

Kashif:


Nothing should concern range cable with this problem.

DO NOT touch anything inside that gear. I think it is just a computer calibration playing games with your mind. To confirm this, drive uphill and let the car slow down on its own without using the brakes. If what you described doesn't happen, it is calibration.

I agree with you on this.

This may be simply the shift logic control at play here.

There may be probably nothing wrong with the transmission itself.