Giddymax:


Yes the SES light is on

Then scan.

Good day house, I know this is a Nissan forum,but I highly value the input of members here. I will like to know if the Land Rover LR3 Nigeria used is worthy the money. Is it reliable to buy? Mt brother want to go for it and I wanted to be sure its a good idea to buy it. Its clean and a 2007 model.

adelowo4u:
Good day house, I know this is a Nissan forum,but I highly value the input of members here. I will like to know if the Land Rover LR3 Nigeria used is worthy the money. Is it reliable to buy? Mt brother want to go for it and I wanted to be sure its a good idea to buy it. Its clean and a 2007 model.

Depends on lot of factors. Lets chat if you want me to tel you the factors 07034581213

Thank you. I will chat you up.

a 2012 infiniti fx35 full option versus 2012 toyota venza which one would give more prestige....i love the fx because it looks more unique and you hardly see anyone driving that particular model, but once you mention fx35 people will begin to say the car is outdated even before seeing the model they all say venza has more prestige....advice please....the both are preowned in nigeria....venza 4.5m with 88k mileage only reverse camera and auto trunk...fx 6m with 4 camera dvd automatic side mirror closing and auto trunk.fx was bought brand new tear rubber with just 36k mileage...please advice

Sarah140:
a 2012 infiniti fx35 full option versus 2012 toyota venza which one would give more prestige....i love the fx because it looks more unique and you hardly see anyone driving that particular model, but once you mention fx35 people will begin to say the car is outdated even before seeing the model they all say venza has more prestige....advice please....the both are preowned in nigeria....venza 4.5m with 88k mileage only reverse camera and auto trunk...fx 6m with 4 camera dvd automatic side mirror closing and auto trunk.fx was bought brand new tear rubber with just 36k mileage...please advice

even a lexus RX will avoid dragging swaggs with the Fx not to now talk of venza.

venza if you intend to play safe
Fx for all out swag and class. also would need special attention and care

nurey:


even a lexus RX will avoid dragging swaggs with the Fx not to now talk of venza.

venza if you intend to play safe
Fx for all out swag and class. also would need special attention and care

DOES IT GIVE MUCH PROBLEMS IF I DRIVE IT MAYBE LIKE 3-4 TIMES WEEKLY

Sarah140:


DOES IT GIVE MUCH PROBLEMS IF I DRIVE IT MAYBE LIKE 3-4 TIMES WEEKLY

nope I don't think it will if you don't buy a problematic remixed engine one.

the engine though is the Vq35HR and only fitted to infiniti line ups don't expect it to be cheap if you abuse it.
the infiniti too require octane boosters for the engine compared to the venza. you sha need more care in using the infiniti than the venza, infiniti body parts too won't come cheap.

overall it's a reliable vehicle

nurey:


[s]even a lexus RX will avoid dragging swaggs with the Fx not to now talk of venza.[/s]

venza if you intend to play safe
Fx for all out swag and class. also would need special attention and care

You get mind

Sarah140:


DOES IT GIVE MUCH PROBLEMS IF I DRIVE IT MAYBE LIKE 3-4 TIMES WEEKLY

Buy Venza or RX350 leave that very uncomfortable harsh riding vehicle with deadly blind spots

please my infiniti QX4 is having power steering oil leakage. my mechanic had removed the steering rack to work on it, but the problem still there. please i need help on this. thanks

signorstan:
please my infiniti QX4 is having power steering oil leakage. my mechanic had removed the steering rack to work on it, but the problem still there. please i need help on this. thanks

Steering rack leak was repaired? To my knowledge this process can't be done properly in our environment. If there is a leak at the rack, I'll advise you replace rack.

Giddymax:
Please house l just recently got an infiniti G35, 2005. I have been having this problem. The car will just go off while on motion like the fuel is finished even when l still have a full tank. It won't start until after a couple of minutes like 15-20. Any idea what could be wrong?

And so the OP brings it to my end and after comprehensive scan three guys showed faces: the knock sensor, camshaft position sensor, and the intelligent key module. Long story short. The I-Key module was gradually failing and would intermittently trigger off the immobilizer to shut the car down. It would only restart after it had reset, which would take hours. Indeed on the second occasion the car was at place, it refused to go beyond my neighbourhood and had to be returned to my place where it was to remain for the next two weeks. We scouted for the module at Ladipo: not immediately available. Not surprising, I found out that Nissan in its wisdom fitted this particular module only in the G35. So we went on ebay (where it flooded the cyberspace), got one and brought it down. We installed and had it programmed to the car, and it brought all the dead remote functions back to life. Yet, the car would do hard starting or even none at all. Camshaft sensor? We changed with one that I had, which was good. No dice. Knock sensor? But I've always known the knock sensor to complement rather than initiate. Anyway, we looked closely and discovered that the connection responsible for the supply line between the knock sensor and the ecm had been severed. (OP couldn't account for that). Apparently, the knock sensor unable to fight for itself appealed to the bank 1 camshaft sensor nearby to capriciously shut off power to the injectors. We restored the link between the knock sensor and the ecm and the car fired up instantly. All this was three days ago. OP has reported no hiccups since. But we watch...
The I-Key Module

Nice work Costee, I too would have suspected the intelligent key module, your discovery about the knock sensor is why we have master specialists for brands, because while there are all cars, there are also very different from each other.

Kudos

Please, I need professional help from a willing member.

My Infiniti QX4 just shut down somewhere in Ikoyi and smell of something burnt oozed from the dashboard (I couldn't say specifically from where). I got a mechanic who, in turn, brought a rewire after looking at it. A sensor was replaced yet the car did not start. Eventually, I was told it was the brainbox (when brought out, it was still smelling very burnt).

My fear is, I hope the only problem is the brainbox because that alone will cost me N40k (I already discussed with a seller at Ladipo). I have had the SUV for more than 6 years and I have never done any major work on it other than servicing and replacing bad shocks.

Prior to the complete breakdown, the SUV would not move fast even when I fired it. It took sometime to gather moment to move at my desired speed, which I found worrisome but I didn't know exactly what might be wrong. I blamed the whole it on old age (it's fast aging).

Anticipating your professional counsel.

Rotimi

Macbroomy:
My Infiniti QX4 just shut down somewhere in Ikoyi and smell of something burnt oozed from the dashboard (I couldn't say specifically from where). I got a mechanic who, in turn, brought a rewire after looking at it. A sensor was replaced yet the car did not start. Eventually, I was told it was the brainbox (when brought out, it was still smelling very burnt).

My fear is, I hope the only problem is the brainbox...Prior to the complete breakdown, the SUV would not move fast even when I fired it. It took sometime to gather moment to move at my desired speed, which I found worrisome but I didn't know exactly what might be wrong.

Something was clearly killing your vehicle gradually. Can't be too sure, but I'd suggest you look the IACV over. If radiator coolant/water had found its way inside it then the resultant electrical breach will redound on the ECM. In effect, if the bad IACV is not changed it will damage the new ECM introduced.
Here's an offer you may consider:
https://www.nairaland.com/3811353/dealership-level-diagnostics-nissan-1996/1#67075764

Costee:

Something was clearly killing your vehicle gradually. Can't be too sure, but I'd suggest you look the IACV over. If radiator coolant/water had found its way inside it then the resultant electrical breach will redound on the ECM. In effect, if the bad IACV is not changed it will damage the new ECM introduced.
Here's an offer you may consider:
https://www.nairaland.com/3811353/dealership-level-diagnostics-nissan-1996/1#67075764

Location for the offer is Abuja

Macbroomy:
Please, I need professional help from a willing member.

My Infiniti QX4 just shut down somewhere in Ikoyi and smell of something burnt oozed from the dashboard (I couldn't say specifically from where). I got a mechanic who, in turn, brought a rewire after looking at it. A sensor was replaced yet the car did not start. Eventually, I was told it was the brainbox (when brought out, it was still smelling very burnt).

My fear is, I hope the only problem is the brainbox because that alone will cost me N40k (I already discussed with a seller at Ladipo). I have had the SUV for more than 6 years and I have never done any major work on it other than servicing and replacing bad shocks.

Prior to the complete breakdown, the SUV would not move fast even when I fired it. It took sometime to gather moment to move at my desired speed, which I found worrisome but I didn't know exactly what might be wrong. I blamed the whole it on old age (it's fast aging).

Anticipating your professional counsel.

Rotimi

Co.stee has pointed you in the right direction, the electric motor in the IACV in your car has a tendency to go down, but sadly it fails to go down alone, it likes to take the ECU along.

Best practice indicates that when you face this problem, replace both...but replace the IACV first, and the ECU next failing which, the new to you ECU will soon fail - if the technician you consulted did not tell you this, he is not thorough!

Secondly, if the new to you ECU has this code P0505 but fails to go away after following the recommended procedure for clearing it, then you are back to square one, you are thus faced with a difficult choice - buy a replacement ECU or repair the one that died by replacing the faulty chip.

My advice...buy a new (not new to you aka tokunbo) IACV before thinking of replacing the ECU, and make sure the part number matches your old ECU if you go the replacement ECU route.

Note: I suggest a new IACV because the used ones in the market may have been beaten to death, their motors may be close to end of life, you do not want to back here so soon after for the same problem.

Let wiring integrity be confirmed before the installation of a new ECU.

Get an OBD II bluetooth scanner and install OBD II software on your mobile and frequently scan for issues (especially if you see a check engine light) so you will be ahead of trouble next time. Learn more about OBD II here https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

Did you have a check engine light on that vehicle? If you had, did you scan for codes? I think you must have had, but since most likely you did not check, you were not aware that you had IACV trouble? Did you have a jumping/unsteady idle?

Good Day,

i was driving last week and i observed that my car (nissan primera) temperature gauge goes high at top speed, have checked to see if over heating occurs but no.

have checked my coolant level and its good please what could be the issue i need professional advise as i do not want all these road side mechanics to turn it upside down.

awaiting feedback many thanks

pls awaiting advise.

etech:
Good Day,

i was driving last week and i observed that my car (nissan primera) temperature gauge goes high at top speed, have checked to see if over heating occurs but no.

have checked my coolant level and its good please what could be the issue i need professional advise as i do not want all these road side mechanics to turn it upside down.

awaiting feedback many thanks

AutoElectNG

Yes, the check engine light was on for a very long time and I just kept driving. I guess I was the architect of my own problem. Since you are far away in Abuja, is there anyone equally reliable you can recommend here in Lagos?

I forgot to add also that we put in a new ECU and it went in flames in less than 18hrs. I am in deep problems right now. The car broke down at my children's school and it has been in the school premises ever since then.

This is an SOS call, Please

Rotimi
Agodo-Egbe, Lagos
08066427383

AutoElectNG:


Co.stee has pointed you in the right direction, the electric motor in the IACV in your car has a tendency to go down, but sadly it fails to go down alone, it likes to take the ECU along.

Best practice indicates that when you face this problem, replace both...but replace the IACV first, and the ECU next failing which, the new to you ECU will soon fail - if the technician you consulted did not tell you this, he is not thorough!

Secondly, if the new to you ECU has this code P0505 but fails to go away after following the recommended procedure for clearing it, then you are back to square one, you are thus faced with a difficult choice - buy a replacement ECU or repair the one that died by replacing the faulty chip.

My advice...buy a new (not new to you aka tokunbo) IACV before thinking of replacing the ECU, and make sure the part number matches your old ECU if you go the replacement ECU route.

Note: I suggest a new IACV because the used ones in the market may have been beaten to death, their motors may be close to end of life, you do not want to back here so soon after for the same problem.

Let wiring integrity be confirmed before the installation of a new ECU.

Get an OBD II bluetooth scanner and install OBD II software on your mobile and frequently scan for issues (especially if you see a check engine light) so you will be ahead of trouble next time. Learn more about OBD II here https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

Did you have a check engine light on that vehicle? If you had, did you scan for codes? I think you must have had, but since most likely you did not check, you were not aware that you had IACV trouble? Did you have a jumping/unsteady idle?

Macbroomy:
AutoElectNG

Yes, the check engine light was on for a very long time and I just kept driving. I guess I was the architect of my own problem. Since you are far away in Abuja, is there anyone equally reliable you can recommend here in Lagos?

I forgot to add also that we put in a new ECU and it went in flames in less than 18hrs. I am in deep problems right now. The car broke down at my children's school and it has been in the school premises ever since then.

This is an SOS call, Please

Rotimi
Agodo-Egbe, Lagos
08066427383

I'll call you.

Is this number also on Whatsapp?

Macbroomy:
AutoElectNG

Yes, the check engine light was on for a very long time and I just kept driving. I guess I was the architect of my own problem. Since you are far away in Abuja, is there anyone equally reliable you can recommend here in Lagos?

I forgot to add also that we put in a new ECU and it went in flames in less than 18hrs. I am in deep problems right now. The car broke down at my children's school and it has been in the school premises ever since then.

This is an SOS call, Please

Rotimi
Agodo-Egbe, Lagos
08066427383

Costee resident expert

What has thou got to say about this?

AutoElectNG:


Costee resident expert

What has thou got to say about this?

Why art thou teasing me? Lol. Whatever happened to the IACV connection in the saga?
We proceed by confirming that it's not been troubled by radiator coolant/water.

Costee:

Why art thou teasing me? Lol. Whatever happened to the IACV connection in the saga?
We proceed by confirming that it's not been troubled by radiator coolant/water.

Well...as the Chief Priest of Nissan on Nairaland

You had to be informed of the presence of another burnt offering

It may be necessary to appease the god of Nissan for this vehicle to rise again

LOL

AutoElectNG:


Well...as the Chief Priest of Nissan on Nairaland

You had to be informed of the presence of another burnt offering

It may be necessary to appease the god of Nissan for this vehicle to rise again

LOL

"We put in a new ECU and it went in flames in less than 18hrs." Verily, verily I say unto thee, that was the burnt offering.
But seriously, I think that a good auto tech should be able to handle this issue smoothly (I hope you'll get involved). The JR50/R50 (QX4/Pathfinder) is one of the more innocuous handiwork of Nissan.

AutoElectNG. I am genuinely grateful for your assistance thus far. You have been quite supportive and helpful in helping get my Infiniti QX4 back on the road. I sincerely cannot thank you enough. God bless you tremendously. Regards

Rotimi
Lagos

AutoElectNG:


Co.stee has pointed you in the right direction, the electric motor in the IACV in your car has a tendency to go down, but sadly it fails to go down alone, it likes to take the ECU along.

Best practice indicates that when you face this problem, replace both...but replace the IACV first, and the ECU next failing which, the new to you ECU will soon fail - if the technician you consulted did not tell you this, he is not thorough!

Secondly, if the new to you ECU has this code P0505 but fails to go away after following the recommended procedure for clearing it, then you are back to square one, you are thus faced with a difficult choice - buy a replacement ECU or repair the one that died by replacing the faulty chip.

My advice...buy a new (not new to you aka tokunbo) IACV before thinking of replacing the ECU, and make sure the part number matches your old ECU if you go the replacement ECU route.

Note: I suggest a new IACV because the used ones in the market may have been beaten to death, their motors may be close to end of life, you do not want to back here so soon after for the same problem.

Let wiring integrity be confirmed before the installation of a new ECU.

Get an OBD II bluetooth scanner and install OBD II software on your mobile and frequently scan for issues (especially if you see a check engine light) so you will be ahead of trouble next time. Learn more about OBD II here https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

Did you have a check engine light on that vehicle? If you had, did you scan for codes? I think you must have had, but since most likely you did not check, you were not aware that you had IACV trouble? Did you have a jumping/unsteady idle?

Costee:

"We put in a new ECU and it went in flames in less than 18hrs." Verily, verily I say unto thee, that was the burnt offering.
But seriously, I think that a good auto tech should be able to handle this issue smoothly (I hope you'll get involved). The JR50/R50 (QX4/Pathfinder) is one of the more innocuous handiwork of Nissan.

You have mail.

Do respond.

Thank you.

What are the likely causes of overheating on a second generation Xterra (05+)? Does the cooling system need bleeding when you add coolant ? How do I know if the water pump is working or not?

Hoses not leaking
Coolant filled to normal level
No thermostat
Radiator cold after long drive but the other plastic boils and throws water away when I park
Fan working well


Please help.

Peacefullife:
What are the likely causes of overheating on a second generation Xterra (05+)? Does the cooling system need bleeding when you add coolant ? How do I know if the water pump is working or not?

Hoses not leaking
Coolant filled to normal level
No thermostat
Radiator cold after long drive but the other plastic boils and throws water away when I park
Fan working well


Please help.

Slow moving traffic overheating?

Fast moving traffic overheating?

Overheating when A/C comes on?

Which of these is your problem?

What work was done on the ride before this bout of overheating

AutoElectNG:


Slow moving traffic overheating?

Fast moving traffic overheating?

Overheating when A/C comes on?

Which of these is your problem?

What work was done on the ride before this bout of overheating

I notice the overhoverheating whenever I get to my destination, and off the engine, the coolant will just pour out . It is usually worse when I use the a.c. I think it is related to a.c operation