JUO:
This thing dey sweet you now, don't complain of battery failure after 13 months

Haha its always like that sometimes .. I had serious headache planning on type of split AC's to purchase then ! I ended up using 1hp split available then for bedrooms and 1.5hp ×2 for the sitting room solely to run maybe 1 unit when I have guests under sunshine.. So far so good, all has been working superb ! My power inverters are splitted into 2 basically for major and minor loads . Cheer's

kiekie1:


Haha its always like that sometimes .. I had serious headache planning on type of split AC's to purchase then ! I ended up using 1hp split available then for bedrooms and 1.5hp ×2 for the sitting room solely to run maybe 1 unit when I have guests under sunshine.. So far so good, all has been working superb ! My power inverters are splitted into 2 basically for major and minor loads . Cheer's

with oversized panels, he has just 1500w actual power

Hello, for clients calling for LED lights to be used for chandelier , wall brackets etc . I have some long lasting units at affordable prices !

Veiimax 4w 220vac "warm light" .... N500.00
Veiimax 4w 220vac led candle lamp...N500.00
AKT 9w 220vac LED white .... N1500.00

Contact:
Smartcell global services
Frankie_feller@yahoo.com
081-350-31951

JUO:
with oversized panels, he has just 1500w actual power

.. Am busy connecting AKT 30w led flood light right now .. I jst love energy efficient gadgets

kiekie1:


You can keep your inverter . A series ep solar is very OK for 12/24v solar set up with tubular batteries and its readily available in 30 and 40 amps at affordable prices .. You can load upto 4 units of 300-340w pv modules on it if its installed in a well ventilated space . Cheer's

Thanks bro

Pls give me a brand name, one that can be trusted

JUO:
He needs a new charge controller contact us for 30a tracer CN series

Please will this solve the problem for good?

Is it an MPPT charger and how much does it go for ?

JUO:
He needs a new charge controller contact us for 30a tracer CN series

Will this solve the problem for good ?

Is it an MPPT controller ?

How much ?

zeestone99:


Call/whatapp 08117398294 for enquiries on diff good brands available here... Gracias

Please send your email to me and I will send a list of what I need to purchase to you- Thanks
ayinba@yahoo.com

pranil:


I beg to differ. T[b]he only way of reliably testing of earth connection is using something called earth megger[/b]

https://www.tester.co.uk/megger-det4td2-earth-tester?gclid=CjwKCAjw0ujYBRBDEiwAn7BKtxVskY0Ebjn7_IDanAUeQ2PbLikI69LuLmSiKQYo8X56c5zYl-vlZBoCPHwQAvD_BwE

- If the earth is even connected by 1.5 mm2 wire the light bulb will light up or multimeter will show low voltage. The earth is supplied already from the disco in a good installation by neutral grounding and hence neutral will always show low voltage with earth.

A good way to check if the Neutral is earthed at home is to switch off NEPA at the entry point ( including neutral) and then measure the inverter output neutral to earth you will be surprised to note that most inverters will show balanced voltage with respect to earth say 110 V ( P to E) and ( 110 N to E)

The higher end inverters have a sperate grounding relay which actuates the main relay ( Victron) or auxiliary contact ( SMA. even newer Ipower models) earth to neutral short on the failure of the grid



That kind of earth is enough to reliably trip a ELCB ( earth Leakage) circuit breaker but may not be strong enough to sink a lightning surge ( or switching surge

typically earth resistance measured ( when isolated from earth bar) should be less than 5 OHMS ( IEEE) , 10 Ohms ( India) 25 ohms ( USA)

In layman's terms during lightning strike, the earth can carry several kiloamperes of current and a high resistance path may raise the circuit potential above 1.5 KV where the normal equipment may fail or people can get shocked

Also there are two values to be concerned with earth Touch potential and step potential. Both concern with human safety. A weak earth can raise a potential along the earth point potentially shocking people on failure of insulation of the equipment



M[i]y advice is to sink one more rod if you are not sure and connect directly to your earth bar with a solid connection without a break -

Typically if the property has large generator e.g. 20 KVA and above you can easily trace and use the generator earth rod as most generator companies will sink a Rod close to the generator and connect to neutral and generator body
[/i]

If you are not sure and you sink another earth rod, and somehow you end up with 2, does it cause harm?

godspeed:


Thanks bro

Pls give me a brand name, one that can be trusted

Yes I mentioned EP solar (a series) with display and optional remote some minutes ago ! Cheer's

godspeed:


Will this solve the problem for good ?

Is it an MPPT controller ?

How much ?

with discount. Optional accessories available. 35k without accessories (30a) with Mt50 50k

@Bigrovar - thanks for your input. I visited the link for your set up and pardon my lack of technical know how but few questions

1. why is the sum across each set of 4 panels significantly different? I understand that a series connection should give an approximate sum of individual panels so I was expecting a sort of sequence, (not that it matters a great deal as the total pwer is still a sum of both arrays).
Are all eight connected or are they 2 separate power generators going into the inverter.

2. Is DoD a function of battery or how you set up your system?

Thanks

JUO:
with discount. Optional accessories available. 35k without accessories (30a) with Mt50 50k

Ok. I'll be sending my installer over to buy.

The thing no get display ?

Reprobate:



thanks for the prompt response.
yes i hv powered a normal 1.5hp ac + 1hp inverter ac simultaneously b4..inverter shows 61% load..
i couldnt wait and powered the 2hp ac..load displayed was 11% with only the indoor unit blowing..and jumped to 56% when the outdoor unit kicked in..battery voltage dropped from float of 58v to 50.8v..cc input is btw 550w to 650w..not a sunny day..
intend to keep an eye on the batt voltage..so it doesnt go below 48v...batts hv been having an easy life..never gone below 49.2v on normal use.its a highpower inverter

Egbon you are playing with FIRE. You do not have the battery capacity nor the pv power to be even considering running AC.. Not even for 30 minutes. Limit your battery discharge not just by the 50% did rule, but most importantly by your capacity to replace what as been discharged within the 5 hours sun window (not as easy as you think with Lead acid batteries) that's bulk, and 2 to 3 hours of current limiting absorption and get your battery to float. If you are not careful you will end up in a cycle of energy deficit which would leave your battery in prolonged under charge state (a battery should get full and proper charge on a daily) the beginning of its demise. Save yourself the hassle and get 3k fuel to power our AC for the event. If you have a 3kw solar array then you care dare to dream the AC life. Just my opinion sha.

ayinba1:
@Bigrovar - thanks for your input. I visited the link for your set up and pardon my lack of technical know how but few questions

1. why is the sum across each set of 4 panels significantly different? I understand that a series connection should give an approximate sum of individual panels so I was expecting a sort of sequence, (not that it matters a great deal as the total pwer is still a sum of both arrays).



Are all eight connected or are they 2 separate power generators going into the inverter.

The 2 set is arrays are connected to different solar charge controllers. Hence why their output differs. Also because each array are made up of similarly sized solar panels. But the array sizes are different hence different output. Although for the most part both charge controllers (whose output are connected in parallel to the same battery bank) work in sync. Sometimes an array produces enough power to keep the battery in absorption at which point the second array goes to sleep until when needed. This also account for different array output.

2. Is DoD a function of battery or how you set up your system?

Tbh I personally don't use or believe in Dod systems like low voltage disconnect.. Rather I prefer to deign my system load and generation around a cycle use that leave my battery at 35-40% depth of discharge. That is what work for me. Although I can understand why some need it especially where you have a large house hold such a feature might come handy when u are not around. For this I would recommend a system that works in sync with the Victron battery monitor. Using the state of charge and relay function.

Less i forget , Happy born day to a great man . You are indeed a gentleman and a solar enthusiast who has inspired so many especially here in this forum. Wishing you many more years & prosperity >> Amen !

Remain blessed George D

Please, I need recommendations for a UPS to protect sensitive medical equipment of about 200W. I am on my 3rd APC UPS within about 15 months, including the Smart APC series.
Does anyone have experience with the Gennex UPS series? I read that it isolates the AC output from the input.

It has earthing and I think it's sufficient given the fact that it was able to powder a load while connecting live and earth

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Please I have a general question for those electrically inclined.

I visited a location where the occupant wanted solar installed - he had just moved into the house and there was a lightening arrestor on the roof but we were unable to verify the location of the buried earth rod or earthing/ground point and apparently the wire from the lightening arrestor ran inside the walls vs. externally on the surface. We called the building manager who insisted there was an earth rod buried in the ground but he didn't also know where it was - the house distribution panel also had a earth bar and several 1.5mm/2.5mm green earth wires but no substantial 6mm or greater size conductor that would indicate a direct link to the buried earth rod/point.

Being dressed for the office, I was unwilling to enter the roof to trace from the lightening arrestor so I whipped out my trusty Fluke and ran a few quick checks;

On an AC socket in the house, I measured Line to Neutral Voltage at 232volts AC
Neutral to Earth voltage about 4-15 volts AC
Line to Earth voltage about 205volts AC - I was also able to light up a test lamp (light bulb) by connecting the Live Wire of the test lamp to Live point on the wall socket and the Neutral Wire of the test lamp to the Earth point on the wall socket.

Are these tests sufficient to conclude that a earth rod is in place and functioning? I am not really interested in the full fancy tests measuring the ground vs. earth rod resistance and loop impedance and such ... I just want extra comfort that the house in question has a earth rod in place and it is functional regardless of whether the installation was up to code or not.

bigrovar:

Egbon you are playing with FIRE. You do not have the battery capacity nor the pv power to be even considering running AC.. Not even for 30 minutes. Limit your battery discharge not just by the 50% did rule, but most importantly by your capacity to replace what as been discharged within the 5 hours sun window (not as easy as you think with Lead acid batteries) that's bulk, and 2 to 3 hours of current limiting absorption and get your battery to float. If you are not careful you will end up in a cycle of energy deficit which would leave your battery in prolonged under charge state (a battery should get full and proper charge on a daily) the beginning of its demise. Save yourself the hassle and get 3k fuel to power our AC for the event. If you have a 3kw solar array then you care dare to dream the AC life. Just my opinion sha.

lol, I don't have a gen,he gen noise drive me nuts ...…….. and don't have the energy to go scouting to hire.
guess I wasn't so clear, I am not offgrid. phcn is my primary charging source, and we average between 10 to 16hrs daily, in cycles of 3, 4 or 6hrs.we usually have phcn from for 6hrs 9pm t0 6am, so that is what is giving me the impetus to do what am doing,
anyway, the bank tried, being a cloudy day, after about 3hrs, batt voltage hit 48.8v, I promptly turned off the ac and switched to fans, and observed batt voltage gradually creep up and settle at 50v!......and then 49.2v after 3hrs of powering abt 450w load

Reprobate:


lol, I don't have a gen,he gen noise drive me nuts ...…….. and don't have the energy to go scouting to hire.
guess I wasn't so clear, I am not offgrid. phcn is my primary charging source, and we average between 10 to 16hrs daily, in cycles of 3, 4 or 6hrs.we usually have phcn from for 6hrs 9pm t0 6am, so that is what is giving me the impetus to do what am doing,
anyway, the bank tried, being a cloudy day, after about 3hrs, batt voltage hit 48.8v, I promptly turned off the ac and switched to fans, and observed batt voltage gradually creep up and settle at 50v!......and then 49.2v after 3hrs of powering abt 450w load

With all due respect, 6 hrs is not enough to charge that your battery bank given the discharge level and number of batteries involved the biggest issue with batteries are absorption they must have proper absorption charge which can take a very long time up to 3 hours depending on the level of discharge and na naija we dey unless you live in a gated estate with standby gen. The grid can never be relied on even where grid power is generally good.. You can't count on them knock on wood. This means you do not have a good to reliable source of charge that you can always count on and that would ensure you battery gets its proper daily circle of charge bulk absorption float. The battery am using is the first battery I started offgrid solar with going 3 years now. Its not even a premium brand rather a tubular battery, 2 of them and I don't even have grid connection.. Yet it powers the house 24 7 and yet has never been used up to 50% dod. Average amp discharge is 88ah for a 220ah battery (which I have derated to 200) even after derating the battery average discharge is still well south of 50% dod. Again you are playing with fire. Maybe you don't mind spending over 400k once every year sha. If that is the case then touché.

I agree 6hrs is not enough to charge the batt bank to float, the 2hp ac thing is just a 1 off event, my bank regular goes into float everyday, even with 10hr daily use of the 1hp inverter ac, phcn is stable in my place, comes on every 3hrs, sometimes every 6hrs, ie u have light from 9am to noon, then its off from noon to 3pm...then comes on by 3pm to 6pm..etc, so even though my 1hp ac runs for 10hrs daily, half of the time, phcn would be availbale,&it would be running off grid and the solar kicks in during the day time hours when phcn is absent. I said earlier 49.2v is the lowest I have seen it go...one of those random days like yesterday..that phcn didn't bring power for 6 to 9hrs straight

I am of the school of thought that lazy batt banks like mine should be depleted to 48.4v once every quarter or 6months to keep it in shape

Seen a lot of discussion on the Roy Solar PWM CC over the past two pages. Is the grouse with the brand or with use of the PWM CC (the lines are blurred during the course of discussions)?

My point: for smaller systems (translated as being under 1kW of PV array) with short distance between the array and CC, PWM might be the cost effective way to go (considering Nigeria's climate).

I have 2 PWM CC in my itinerary (Xantrex C60 and Midnite Kid), of which one is in use at the moment for powering my DC security lights and their performance is nothing if not ideal.

Of course, these statements rely heavily on the VoC of the panels and nominal voltage of the system being optimally matched.

bigrovar:

Egbon you are playing with FIRE. You do not have the battery capacity nor the pv power to be even considering running AC.. Not even for 30 minutes. Limit your battery discharge not just by the 50% did rule, but most importantly by your capacity to replace what as been discharged within the 5 hours sun window (not as easy as you think with Lead acid batteries) that's bulk, and 2 to 3 hours of current limiting absorption and get your battery to float. If you are not careful you will end up in a cycle of energy deficit which would leave your battery in prolonged under charge state (a battery should get full and proper charge on a daily) the beginning of its demise. Save yourself the hassle and get 3k fuel to power our AC for the event. If you have a 3kw solar array then you care dare to dream the AC life. Just my opinion sha.

Even on a 3kW PV array, air conditioning on batteries should be almost exclusively be during the day. The inconsistency of sunshine lately makes it something of a hazard to try it at night - unless you have a fairly predictable grid supply to augment solar charging. That way, he won't become anxious when the sun goes on a 3-day vacation.

bigrovar:
.....
Tbh I personally don't use or believe in Dod systems like low voltage disconnect.. Rather I prefer to deign my system load and generation around a cycle use that leave my battery at 35-40% depth of discharge. That is what work for me. Although I can understand why some need it especially where you have a large house hold such a feature might come handy when u are not around. For this I would recommend a system that works in sync with the Victron battery monitor. Using the state of charge and relay function.

LVD becomes essential when you frequently have guests or you've got teenagers in the house. Next to ignorance, teenagers are my dread. I consider them the natural enemy of RE.

Ativ:
Please, I need recommendations for a UPS to protect sensitive medical equipment of about 200W. I am on my 3rd APC UPS within about 15 months, including the Smart APC series.
Does anyone have experience with the Gennex UPS series? I read that it isolates the AC output from the input.

The price of sustaining sensitive equipment/protecting them from power blackouts/brownouts is the cost of replacing UPS batteries. Next time a UPS dies, replace the batteries, not the entire UPS. Get good batteries to replace the dead ones (Long brand comes to mind). Of course, for each cycle of use, you should endeavour to fully charge the batteries before the next discharge cycle. And don't wait for the UPS to die on you before powering it down; that only kills the battery sooner.

Saipro:
Seen a lot of discussion on the Roy Solar PWM CC over the past two pages. Is the grouse with the brand or with use of the PWM CC (the lines are blurred during the course of discussions)?

My point: for smaller systems (translated as being under 1kW of PV array) with short distance between the array and CC, PWM might be the cost effective way to go (considering Nigeria's climate).

I have 2 PWM CC in my itinerary (Xantrex C60 and Midnite Kid), of which one is in use at the moment for powering my DC security lights and their performance is nothing if not ideal.

Of course, these statements rely heavily on the VoC of the panels and nominal voltage of the system being optimally matched.

for simple setup like security lights, PWM is no doubt more than capable. however for any thing above 600w you should start considering mppt especially for a 24v system, PWM might still serve for 12v setups when used with a 24v panel.. but it is a no no for a 24v system considering most PV modules in these parts are actually designed for grid-tied systems hence the relatively low vmp/voc most 24v offgrid solar panels comes with voc as high as 37 allowing for enough headroom for you to charge a 24v battery even if using pwm. The catch is that truely offgrid panels are expensive so its either you get cheap panels / expensive controller, or expensive panel or cheaper controller... bad things happens when you go cheap both ways.

Saipro:


LVD becomes essential when you frequently have guests or you've got teenagers in the house. Next to ignorance, teenagers are my dread. I consider them the natural enemy of RE.

@ bold. you are right and I admitted as much. the Victron battery monitor is one device whose implementation of low voltage relay action I could live with.

bigrovar:


There in lies the culprits. Roy solar.. Its you again ... Bro your inverter and solar charge controller have conspired to murder your battery. Even if you don't use those batteries they would still die. The inverter will never be able to charge those batteries properly. They won't be able to give it proper absorption charge (14.4v at the very least) and 15.3v for 2 hours of equalisation at least once a month. You won't get that from your inverter. The charge controller is even worse. Fortunately you have a tubular battery so the situation can still be saveged. Get a different inverter one of the powerstar series from Must or felicity if possible, get a tracer series charge controller and connect your panels in series. All this would set u back over a 100k. It is the price for bad installation. Solar is not cheap. You can't afford to make a mistake because it gets even more expensive.

For most "Roy" installations I've seen, installers would use a horrible pair of 4 - 6mm (one for +ve, the other -ve) to run double digit amps over 20 - 50 metres, amongst other blunders. These cables would even have poorly connected joints. Very poor system design can often be blamed. I do agree culprit Roy has poor charging algorithms, no voltage correction and worst of all, no temperature compensation.

bigrovar:


for simple setup like security lights, PWM is no doubt more than capable. however for any thing above 600w you should start considering mppt especially for a 24v system, PWM might still serve for 12v setups when used with a 24v panel.. but it is a no no for a 24v system considering most PV modules in these parts are actually designed for grid-tied systems hence the relatively low vmp/voc most 24v offgrid solar panels comes with voc as high as 37 allowing for enough headroom for you to charge a 24v battery even if using pwm. The catch is that truely offgrid panels are expensive so its either you get cheap panels / expensive controller, or expensive panel or cheaper controller... bad things happens when you go cheap both ways.

I agree with everything but the 24V limit. Indeed, 1,000W (roughly 70A) is the point at which you begin considering if a 12V system is a wise choice. 12V systems are best kept under 800W. About 2,000W is the "sensible" limit for a 24V system. The primary problem is cabling. The second being, there are DC currents you don't really want to play with.

Saipro:


For most "Roy" installations I've seen, installers would use a horrible pair of 4 - 6mm to run double digit amps over 20 - 50 metresblunders, amongst other . Very poor system design can often be blamed. I do agree culprit Roy has poor charging algorithms, no voltage correction and worst of all, no temperature compensation.

Roy is bad no point calling a spade a gardening tool.

Both batteries drain (used) simultaneously. Whether batteries are in Parallel or series, they drain simultaneously.

kadorzy:
Good day house,
A quick one please.
When two batteries are connected in parallel I understand the capacity increases but voltage remains same. But my question is while the batteries are being used do the two batteries drain simultaneously or one after the other.?

Thanks.

Hello house,

Please, what is the function of "customized" under charger control of Cyber power inverter as shown below?

Thanks.