thebigkendo:

Update on the 2004 Volkswagen Bora

Vehicle is 25km away one way.

It does not run and drive.

Attempts to communicate with the owner, have not been reciprocated until late this afternoon.

More updates before weekend.

I'll have interesting updates for you on my Honda thread between today, tomorrow and next tomorrow on the abuse of a 2011 Honda Accord EX-L

AutoElectNG:


Vehicle is 25km away one way.

It does not run and drive.

Attempts to communicate with the owner, have not been reciprocated until late this afternoon.

More updates before weekend.

I'll have interesting updates for you on my Honda thread between today, tomorrow and next tomorrow on the abuse of a 2011 Honda Accord EX-L

patiently waiting

AutoElectNG:
P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high

This code is an indication that the vehicle is afflicted with the take me home aka limp home mode.

Once this condition occurs, nothing will make a VW rev up!

Is there a problem with the connections to this module? Do the contacts suffer from dirt and or corrosion causing the voltage and or current flowing to be out of sync with factory specifications? Is the accelerator pedal itself bad?

Our tests will reveal the next course of action.

These tests have to be redone. Then will update this post.

We need to take measurements between the ECU (see Picture One which is courtesy of http://uk-mkivs.net) and the Throttle Position Sensor TP (G79)/Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor APP (G185) 6 pin electrical harness connector terminals (Picture Two).

We need to compare voltage readings with (Picture Three which is courtesy of http://uk-mkivs.net)

We will also need to take some resistance readings.

When we have that information, we can conclude the diagnosis phase of this case and move into the remediation phase.

AutoElectNG:


We need to take measurements between the ECU (see Picture One which is courtesy of http://uk-mkivs.net) and the Throttle Position Sensor TP (G79)/Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor APP (G185) 6 pin electrical harness connector terminals (Picture Two).

We need to compare voltage readings with (Picture Three which is courtesy of http://uk-mkivs.net)

We will also need to take some resistance readings.

When we have that information, we can conclude the diagnosis phase of this case and move into the remediation phase.

Great work and more kudos you.I had similar experience on 2001 V6 vw passat
NO RESPONSE FROM THE THROTTLE WHEN ACCELERATE ,the picture u provided almost have the same rating anyway I solved the problem with the help of multimeter and alldata also I drive vw passat 1.8T.
THE THROTTLE PEDAL SENSOR HAS SIX WIRES.RESISTANCE AND CONTINUITY TEST SOLVED THE ISSUES (OPEN CIRCUIT)
Troubleshooting VAG products not an easy job.
Thanks for the pic and link.
Still following and waiting for update.

empron:
Great work and more kudos you.I had similar experience on 2001 V6 vw passat
NO RESPONSE FROM THE THROTTLE WHEN ACCELERATE ,the picture u provided almost have the same rating anyway I solved the problem with the help of multimeter and alldata also I drive vw passat 1.8T.
THE THROTTLE PEDAL SENSOR HAS SIX WIRES.RESISTANCE AND CONTINUITY TEST SOLVED THE ISSUES (OPEN CIRCUIT)
Troubleshooting VAG products not an easy job.
Thanks for the pic and link.
Still following and waiting for update.

Would you trade it for an equivalent Toyota with similar engine size?

So you are saying in effect that it is not impossible.

Would you say that VW vehicles are troublesome? And should be avoided at all costs?

I expect to update on or before Saturday.

Car owner comes online towards 11PM daily, he came online briefly this afternoon.

I hope I can get information that will enable me move this to the end of this phase when he comes online in a few minutes.

AutoElectNG:


Would you trade it for an equivalent Toyota with similar engine size?

So you are saying in effect that it is not impossible.

Would you say that VW vehicles are troublesome? And should be avoided at all costs?

I expect to update on or before Saturday.

Car owner comes online towards 11PM daily, he came online briefly this afternoon.

I hope I can get information that will enable me move this to the end of this phase when he comes online in a few minutes.

incomparable VW require dexterity and details when working,once abused it required expert to fix not a car u can bypass anything anyhow.Lack of expert and impatient make it look more complex.

empron:
incomparable VW require dexterity and details when working,once abused it required expert to fix not a car u can bypass anything anyhow.Lack of expert and impatient make it look more complex.

Cool...at least is not that their vehicles are unreliable, more likely it's the technicians whose knowledge is out of date that are

We cannot emphasize enough the importance of taking your Audi/VW to skilled technicians

If the repair is not world-class, If it cannot hold its own among peers - and by peers, I do not mean Nigerian peers, but worldwide peers - your safety, the safety of those you love and even the safety of other road users may be compromised.

The time has come to benchmark what we do against the world.

Something went down in Canada a few days ago - June 5, 2018 to be precise.

This is the sort of stuff we should be focusing on here and not on celebrating mediocrity in the form ragtag contraptions in the name of vehicles.

The pictures speak for themselves

pictures cont'd

yet more pictures

Finally

P1631 Additional notes

First Picture courtesy of https://volkswagen-polo-highline..com/search/label/accelerator%20pedal%20sensors

Second Picture courtesy of https://www./799177896345228936/

thebigkendo:

Update on the 2004 Volkswagen Bora

Final tests carried out...will update post soon with the results and the implications of the same...work takes second place over the weekend. ..

AutoElectNG:
P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high

This code is an indication that the vehicle is afflicted with the take me home aka limp home mode.

Once this condition occurs, nothing will make a VW rev up!

Is there a problem with the connections to this module? Do the contacts suffer from dirt and or corrosion causing the voltage and or current flowing to be out of sync with factory specifications? Is the accelerator pedal itself bad?

Our tests will reveal the next course of action.

These tests have to be redone. Then will update this post.

There are two tests mandated by the factory to determine the way forward. There is a third test suggested by VW diehards.

The first factory test is voltage drop testing. The second factory test is a measure of resistance. The third aficionado test is a voltage drop test

P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high

Confirm that battery voltage is a minimum of 12.5V
Confirm that all electrical loads are switched off
Confirm that GROUND connections between the engine, the transmission and the chassis are OK

Remove the driver side footwell

Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor TP (G79)/Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor APP (G185) 6 pin electrical harness connector
THEN
Switch the Ignition ON

Using a Digital Multimeter, measure the voltage drop between the following:

PIN1 AND GROUND
PIN2 AND GROUND
PIN2 AND PIN 3

If OK, should read about 5V.


These were the results of our factory voltage drop test

First test (PIN1 AND GROUND) = 5.08V,

Second test (PIN2 AND GROUND) = 5.00V,

Third test (PIN2 AND PIN 3) = 4.99V

It would seem that these test results are good

P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high

Remove the ECM

Then check the Throttle Position Sensor TP (G79)/Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor APP (G185) 6 pin electrical harness connector terminals to the ECM electrical connector T121 for an open circuit

Test the following pins

TP/APP Harness connector **//** ECM Harness connector
1 **//** 72
2 **//** 73
3 **//** 36
4 **//** 35
5 **//** 33
6 **//** 34

Expected value must be less than 1.5 ohms


Results obtained


1 **//** 72= infinite resistance
2 **//** 73= infinite resistance
3 **//** 36= infinite resistance
4 **//** 35=infinite resistance
5 **//** 33=infinite resistance
6 **//** 34=infinite resistance

It would seem that these test results are NO GOOD

The third aficionado test cannot be done yet, because the ECU is not on the vehicle. We are investigating the possibility of repairing the ECU since it appears to be bad. Test will be conducted upon return of the ECU.


P1631: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor -G79- Signal too high


Using a Digital Multimeter, measure the voltage drop between the following:

PIN1 and the 5 volt reference from ECM for G185

PIN2 and the 5 volt reference from ECM for G185

PIN3 and the sensor Ground circuit for G79

PIN4 and the sensor Signal circuit for G79

PIN5 and the sensor Ground circuit for G185

PIN6 and the sensor Signal circuit for G185

-----------------------------
MODIFIED BELOW
----------------------------

Bonus video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBRJdzrGUA4

Taking notes

drmuchin:
It is rare to see a Nigerian share information like this

Picture below explains my background.

I have been privileged to associate with people who ordinarily I would have no access to except that they come from a culture of sharing knowledge...to give just one example, how easy is it to have access to the wealth of knowledge and experience of a NASA trained scientist (20 year veteran) and automotive aficionado who selflessly explained concepts I had difficulty grasping until it made sense to me?

Until the value of teamwork and knowledge sharing is valued here as it is valued over there...progress will be difficult.

The other part of my background is that my dad used to tell me if you understand it, then explain it to me in your own words, not the words of the text you claim to have understood.

When I am not willing to burn brain cycles to explain in my own words, I find a text that appropriately explains the concept I want to pass on and provide appropriate attribution

AutoElectNG:


Picture below explains my background.

I have been privileged to associate with people who ordinarily I would have no access to except that they come from a culture of sharing knowledge...to give just one example, how easy is it to have access to the wealth of knowledge and experience of a NASA trained scientist (20 year veteran) and automotive aficionado who selflessly explained concepts I had difficulty grasping until it made sense to me?

Until the value of teamwork and knowledge sharing is valued here as it is valued over there...progress will be difficult.

The other part of my background is that my dad used to tell me if you understand it, then explain it to me in your own words, not the words of the text you claim to have understood.

When I am not willing to burn brain cycles to explain in my own words, I find a text that appropriately explains the concept I want to pass on and provide appropriate attribution

Simple fact.well done.I have been trying to reach you on your WhatsApp number.pls kindly send it.

empron:
Simple fact.well done.I have been trying to reach you on your WhatsApp number.pls kindly send it.

.

Discussions have been opened concerning another engine swap gone wrong.

This time around it is a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta 2.8L VR6 that has given its owner tremendous problems and hypertension. The vehicle has been grounded for ONE whole year.

The list of problems include:

Faulty gearbox

Engine overheating

Blown head gasket

Cracked engine top

Injector nozzle fault

Mass Air Flow sensor fault

Spark plugs soaking oil

Our prospective client has spent, spent and spent until he is tired.

There are three possible solutions:

1. Rebuild the current engine (and take advantage of our 12 months/24,000 miles warranty + great peace of mind)

2. Install a tokunbo engine (which will come with the engine sellers usual 1 or 2 weeks guaranty + the heart in one's mouth)

3. Get a reconditioned engine from VW (with 3 year/36,000 miles warranty + cost of shipping same from either US or Europe)

This depends on the client though.

We have made it clear that we charge a flat rate for labor on engine rebuilds (N250,000.00) that does not include the cost of parts(rebuild kit). The cost for parts to be replaced will be determined following engine disassembly and inspection.

If he goes for option 2, then we will do our best to source for a decent Nigerian source but are constrained to providing no more warranties than the source itself provides.

It would most likely be cheaper to source for and install a tokunbo engine.

Following immediately below is the history of the vehicle to date:

PREVIOUSLY
Car starts
But car cannot idle
When the accelerator is released the engine would stutter and go off
But the car makes explosive sounds
To be able to drive it to his workshop, the electrician had to unplug the MAF sensor, only then was he able to drive it some 20KM to his workshop

Scanning brought out 7 different DTCs

The electrician then proceeded to replace injector nozzles, in collaboration with a mechanic worked on timing, replaced the MAF sensor, replaced the control relay, removed and replaced an adjuster where engine oil was leaking from.

CURRENTLY
Car starts
Car idles fine
Car is drivable
The car makes explosive sounds
And the plugs are soaked in oil

2004 Volkswagen Bora 1.6L Interim Diagnosis/Report

Whenever a Volkswagen vehicle can idle
BUT
the same vehicle fails to respond to accelerator pedal input
AND
either the oxygen sensor heater wires or signal wires have been frayed, cut, damaged or exposed in any way
THE VERDICT IS USUALLY THIS
that the 5V Drive-by-Wire (DBW) aka Throttle Driver from the ECU has been roasted by the 12V from the oxygen sensor heater.

Likely causes of this unfortunate event can include but is not limited to:

1. Improper exhaust installation/modification
2. Crumbling engine mounts
3. Installation of poorly manufactured universal oxygen sensor
4. time-worn OEM oxygen sensor wiring

This repair is not going to come cheap as the client needs to do the following:

1. Replace the oxygen sensors with new from Bosch
2. With the help of a digital multi-meter ensure that there are absolutely no shorts on the vehicle especially in any circuits that are currently blowing fuses
3. Program and install a new ECM (where is not possible to repair the one that came with the vehicle from the factory)
4. Run a Throttle Body Adaptation (TBA)
5. Try to see if the vehicle will accelerate
6. Install extra heat shrink tapes around the oxygen sensors to form a flexible loop and a heat shield at the same time
7. Add fusing to the oxygen sensor heater circuit to forestall another event of the ECU being roasted

The tell-tale signs of this misfortune are the presence of Accelerator Position Sensor (G79) Signal too high and Accelerator Position Sensor (G185) Signal too high and oxygen sensor DTCs.

This sad event occurs because the throttle pedal, the throttle body and the upstream oxygen sensors all share a 5V signal from the ECM.

Whether there will be a final report depends on the client funding the process so the above listed can be done.

It would seem to me that to all intents and purposes I have rightfully earned every cent of the funds allocated to the diagnosis of the faults of this vehicle.

Why is it important to repair a vehicle according to OEM specifications (even more so when the repairs involves fixing the aftermath of a collision)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNO_Wl79ZSg

Learning some inputs here.
Great work so far.

SmartToyota:
Learning some inputs here.
Great work so far.

I am honored to hear from you.

Whenever the oxygen sensor heater wires or signal wires have been frayed, cut, damaged or exposed in any way in a Volkswagen:

What happens? ECM is toast!

Alien wire in Engine compartment.

When queried client said, it was put in place as an alternative way of controlling the A/C when the A/C knob or its associated wiring failed

Engine bay pictures

Engine bay pictures (2)

Engine bay pictures (3)

Passenger compartment pictures (1)