Saipro:

If you're starting fresh, 48V is really good. It's the lowest current option for the typical home system. High current is the bane of electricity transmission because cable resistance is fairly constant. That leaves you with voltage to mess around with thus lowering your current. In addition, 48V will always require fewer strings if you use the same batteries (as opposed to 12v and 24V).

Think about your needs. If a 48V system will work for you (including consideration for DC devices or not), please go ahead with it.

Keeps getting more complicated and interesting. Thanks for the time.

AidanGDunbar:
Orting Locksmith offers optimal locksmith and garage door repair solutions by trained technicians to assist you better standard. Call now and receive same day repair service. We fix all your requirement on the day you ask.

who is this Boko Haram ?

I do this approach but if you look at it in a way it's like paralleling the batteries then series. More like a grid of 12v matrix.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Most of the good options (value & premium inverters and CCs) are within the 12v to 48v range.

Given that your batteries are 12v units you will find best battery balance at 12v but your maximum efficiency at 48v.

Borrowing from how 12v batteries in parallel stay better in sync with each other, one may contrive a similar arrangement with multiple parallel bank 24v or 48v battery setups by creating additional parallel links between each position in each bank. I will post a diagram in a bit.

This solution is not a cure all though, it solves a part of the problem but still leaves something unsolved. It has worked well for me so far vs. doing the conventional approach though.

dapsyra:


The quoted price of US$999 is too high for that capacity and chemistry. If you are a DIY person, I suggest you CALB LifePo4 batteries instead.

For the capacity of 1200WH (24V 50AH) you require 8units of CALB 3.2v 50AH batteries. You can easily get a 50AH CALB LiFePo4 battery at US$60 each or less. The CALB batteries are also rated at 3000-5000 cycles at 80% DOD.

Pls house, can these CALB GBS Batteries be revived? The electrolyte inside has dried up owing to bad storage the 'paper like' materials packed inside are intact.

Alejob:




Pls house, can these CALB GBS Batteries be revived? The electrolyte inside has dried up owing to bad storage the 'paper like' materials packed inside are intact.

nothing to loose, add about 10 to 20ml ie 1 big syringe of distied water..and hook it up on a good charger with desulphation cycles, start with very ow charging currents, less than 1/20 of its ah rating if possible

S007:

I hope this person can see. U better wake up from ur sleep, carry your locks and get out of our thread.

Spambot?

earthrealm:


nothing to loose, add about 10 to 20ml ie 1 big syringe of distied water..and hook it up on a good charger with desulphation cycles, start with very ow charging currents, less than 1/20 of its ah rating if possible

Ahhhh !


CALB -- China Aviation Lithium Battery

it is lithium faa ! not lead-ion

may be this will help
www.evlithium.com/CALB_Battery/

Got these for a client. I am bottom balancing them and they will be installed on Tuesday.

chris81964:
Got these for a client. I am bottom balancing them and they will be installed on Tuesday.

Good stuff . keep it up Bro !

chris81964:
Got these for a client. I am bottom balancing them and they will be installed on Tuesday.

These are CALB Batteries... What is the rating and how much do they go for?

efuro:



Ahhhh !


CALB -- China Aviation Lithium Battery

it is lithium faa ! not lead-ion

may be this will help
www.evlithium.com/CALB_Battery/

ahhh ahh, lithium batt?..then disregard my advice above, i assumed it was normal lead acid batt

I made a good108Ah 12v pack from 18650 lithium ion batteries and the runtime was very impressive. But I have problem charging them with a regular deep cycle battery and the maximum voltage it can take 12.6 while an average charger will go to as high as 14v. I have already blown my batteries and planning to make another. I didn't use any BMS and I was able to charge to 12.4 before I forgot to monitor the voltage and it exceeded the 12.6 and the pack blew up. Pls can I get a 12v charger that I can set to cut off at 12.6 or how do I get a bms?

Alejob:
I made a good108Ah 12v pack from 18650 lithium ion batteries and the runtime was very impressive. But I have problem charging them with a regular deep cycle battery and the maximum voltage it can take 12.6 while an average charger will go to as high as 14v. I have already blown my batteries and planning to make another. I didn't use any BMS and I was able to charge to 12.4 before I forgot to monitor the voltage and it exceeded the 12.6 and the pack blew up. Pls can I get a 12v charger that I can set to cut off at 12.6 or how do I get a bms?

Get Charger and BMS, check AliExpress

Perhaps you can dedicate a barebones MPPT or PWM CC? And then set the absorb cutoff point as needed?

The output of your current charge source would be the 'solar input' into the CC

Alejob:
I made a good108Ah 12v pack from 18650 lithium ion batteries and the runtime was very impressive. But I have problem charging them with a regular deep cycle battery and the maximum voltage it can take 12.6 while an average charger will go to as high as 14v. I have already blown my batteries and planning to make another. I didn't use any BMS and I was able to charge to 12.4 before I forgot to monitor the voltage and it exceeded the 12.6 and the pack blew up. Pls can I get a 12v charger that I can set to cut off at 12.6 or how do I get a bms?

To be sincere..... I'm a big fan of used batteries. As long as the batteries passes my test.
--I use a thick d.c cable(>~50mm) and a precision voltmeter set to the d.c mode.
--i place the probes on the battery terminals tightly
--i bridge the terminals for like 3 secs, and watch the voltage level fall.
Any value between 10.5 and 11 = green
Any value between 10.4 and 9.5 = amber
Any value below 9 = red
Note---- this test involves some fireworks and a replacement of meter probes sometimes.

Janyves:
To be sincere..... I'm a big fan of used batteries. As long as the batteries passes my test.
--I use a thick d.c cable(>~50mm) and a precision voltmeter set to the d.c mode.
--i place the probes on the battery terminals tightly
--i bridge the terminals for like 3 secs, and watch the voltage level fall.
Any value between 10.5 and 11 = green
Any value between 10.4 and 9.5 = amber
Any value below 9 = red
Note---- this test involves some fireworks and a replacement of meter probes sometimes.

lollz, good plan.
the battery must be fully charged for this to work, and few used battery sellers will allow you do this on their battery prior to purchase.
this procedure may also short out cells if improperly handled.

how is this different from using a 100amp load tester.
i used this to test all my batts, and they passed in flyinf colors, held it for 10 to 15secs

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544304044&sr=8-1&keywords=schumaker+load+tester

same batts niyi said are all dead

NiyiOmoIyunade:


Mustpower (e.g Felicity) is a good rugged and reliable brand - they have roughly 300% surge capability so a 3.5kva 24v should be able to handle your (1hp > 746watts × 3times surge) 2.24kw surge without trouble. Any of the MustPower - PowerStar IR or similar clones (transformer based) should do the job - I recommended Felicity because of their excellent after sales service.

Do you know if felicity makes hybrid pure sine wave inverter/solar and how reliable is it compared to the likes of ispirit series of mercury?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Perhaps you can dedicate a barebones MPPT or PWM CC? And then set the absorb cutoff point as needed?

The output of your current charge source would be the 'solar input' into the CC

Thanks for your response.....what do mean by barebone cc? I own a 30A epever mppt charge controller already....is it a barebone cc.... I'm thinking barebone may mean programmable but I want I learn Sir..... I need to way to charge my lithium battery pack and will consider going for the bms but in the mean time will explore the local available options to me. I exploded a pack already but I know my charging was wrong. I used a lead acid deep cycle charger that can push battery voltage to as high 14v for a 12.6v lithium pack with loose monitoring . But I don't want to wait a month for Aliexpress slow shipping. Regards!

Alejob:



Thanks for your response.....what do mean by barebone cc? I own a 30A epever mppt charge controller already....is it a barebone cc.... I'm thinking barebone may mean programmable but I want I learn Sir..... I need to way to charge my lithium battery pack and will consider going for the bms but in the mean time will explore the local available options to me. I exploded a pack already but I know my charging was wrong. I used a lead acid deep cycle charger that can push battery voltage to as high 14v for a 12.6v lithium pack with loose monitoring . But I don't want to wait a month for Aliexpress slow shipping. Regards!

Barebone in this regard means a CC with the barest essential to function. Can you adjust the output voltage of the epever MPPT charge controller? How do you source your 18650 batteries? Interesting setup.

mctfopt:



Barebone in this regard means a CC with the barest essential to function. Can you adjust the output voltage of the epever MPPT charge controller? How do you source your 18650 batteries? Interesting setup.

I don't know how to adjust the output voltage, but Epever is mppt cc is one of the commonest and I will hope one of our guru in the house can tell me if it is useful. I have marketing 18650 battery for over five years. My signature says a lot about that. I got them from a reliable source and my price are cheap! Regards

Nor be Niyi kill the batteries na!

We are all essentially doing the same test but in different ways, Oga Earthrealm uses a calibrated 100amps load while Oga Janyves uses a thick cable and may not be able to regulate the current draw. The issue with the two tests is I believe the time under load is insufficient for a proper diagnosis to be made of the battery health.

What I do is take out the metal element (calibrated load with known resistance) from inside Oga Earthrealm's battery tester and attach it directly to thick cables with clamps at the end. This calibrated 100amps load, I then attach to 25 to 35mm cables with clamps at the end (clamps because you don't want to be bolting to and unbolting from the battery terminals in case you need a quick disconnect ).

With the metal element/load removed from the battery tester, you have bypassed the 15 to 20 seconds the battery tester on/off switch and other components can withstand without damage and can now run your test as long as needed (30 mins for a 200Ah battery). You will need a means to cool that metal element as it will glow red hot - I simply submerge it entirely in a bucket of water and thereby create a DC boiling ring.

That calibrated load I keep mentioning inside the battery tester is simply a piece of metal wire with known resistance - you can rig up your own but I like to take it out from the schumacher battery tester because for $20, I get the 100amps metal element, 2 heavy duty clamps, an analog voltmeter and metal body case I can deploy in other applications - great deal if you ask me.

earthrealm:


lollz, good plan.
the battery must be fully charged for this to work, and few used battery sellers will allow you do this on their battery prior to purchase.
this procedure may also short out cells if improperly handled.

how is this different from using a 100amp load tester.
i used this to test all my batts, and they passed in flyinf colors, held it for 10 to 15secs

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BT-100-Battery-Load-Tester/dp/B000AMBOI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544304044&sr=8-1&keywords=schumaker+load+tester

same batts niyi said are all dead

In the CC settings you can set absorb voltage and length of absorb (time) - simply set the regulation points you need suitable for your battery and you are good to go.

There may be an issue with the mppt not waking up below a certain voltage level but you should try first to see. Worst case an el cheapo PWM CC will solve that problem but except on pricey units like the MorningStar you may not have plenty of customization options around your absorb voltage and absorb time.

Alejob:




I don't know how to adjust the output voltage, but Epever is mppt cc is one of the commonest and I will hope one of our guru in the house can tell me if it is useful. I have marketing 18650 battery for over five years. My signature says a lot about that. I got them from a reliable source and my price are cheap! Regards

Alejob:




I don't know how to adjust the output voltage, but Epever is mppt cc is one of the commonest and I will hope one of our guru in the house can tell me if it is useful. I have marketing 18650 battery for over five years. My signature says a lot about that. I got them from a reliable source and my price are cheap! Regards

Well, I'm still in the dark on how you source the 18650 batteries. But it's ok if it's kinda secret which you don't wanna share

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Nor be Niyi kill the batteries na!

We are all essentially doing the same test but in different ways, Oga Earthrealm uses a calibrated 100amps load while Oga Janyves uses a thick cable and may not be able to regulate the current draw. The issue with the two tests is I believe the time under load is insufficient for a proper diagnosis to be made of the battery health.

That calibrated load I keep mentioning inside the battery tester is simply a piece of metal wire with known resistance - you can rig up your own but I like to take it out from the schumacher battery tester because for $20, I get the 100amps metal element, 2 heavy duty clamps, an analog voltmeter and metal body case I can deploy in other applications - great deal if you ask me.

Well, my take is the load tester was designed by people who i believe are smarter than us ,
i believe batts are graded excellent/good/fair etc, your test might be on the excellent band,
the 10 - 15sec test is on the good band and may be able to catch a bad battery maybe 3 to 6months b4 it fails.
Niyi s method may catch it 6 to 12 months b4 it fails, while janyves method may even damage the battery, by shorting out a weak cell or connection inside the battery during the test

NiyiOmoIyunade:
In the CC settings you can set absorb voltage and length of absorb (time) - simply set the regulation points you need suitable for your battery and you are good to go.

There may be an issue with the mppt not waking up below a certain voltage level but you should try first to see. Worst case an el cheapo PWM CC will solve that problem but except on pricey units like the MorningStar you may not have plenty of customization options around your absorb voltage and absorb time.

i


I have a cheapo I will check the settings. I thanks for your response!

mctfopt:



Well, I'm still in the dark on how you source the 18650 batteries. But it's ok if it's kinda secret which you don't wanna share

Business my brother, this is what I sell! We scrap from where it is not needed anymore and test to sell the best out for profit

Alejob:



Business my brother, this is what I sell! We scrap from where it is not needed anymore and test to sell the best out for profit

Oh, that's awesome. Thanks.

Some Solar Power installers erroneously do not separate AC mains charging of connected batteries from charging through solar charge controller.

To my surprise every installer I have spoken with that this is wrong do not see anything wrong with this. They are of the opinion that when the AC mains and solar charge controller are switched on the higher supply of the two takes over charging.

Please experts let's put forward here the best practice.

Jean2:
Some Solar Power installers erroneously do not separate AC mains charging of connected batteries from charging through solar charge controller.

To my surprise every installer I have spoken with that this is wrong do not see anything wrong with this. They are of the opinion that when the AC mains and solar charge controller are switched on the higher supply of the two takes over charging.

Please experts let's put forward here the best practice.

since they are both meeting at the battery head, whats the use of separating them?.. some high end smrt inverters have solar or grid priority setting, and this may ony allow one charging point if configured properly.

in all my set ups, have never bothered separating the 2 charging sources,, and zero issues, ikewise many folks here.
observed in mine..that depending on the state of charge of the battery, the solar charging is throttled down a bit when grid charging kicks in

Alejob:



Thanks for your response.....what do mean by barebone cc? I own a 30A epever mppt charge controller already....is it a barebone cc.... I'm thinking barebone may mean programmable but I want I learn Sir..... I need to way to charge my lithium battery pack and will consider going for the bms but in the mean time will explore the local available options to me. I exploded a pack already but I know my charging was wrong. I used a lead acid deep cycle charger that can push battery voltage to as high 14v for a 12.6v lithium pack with loose monitoring . But I don't want to wait a month for Aliexpress slow shipping. Regards!

If you must charge use the settings in the middle on your epever, You can see charge limit Voltage 12.6V
Cheers

How much is per pack the one of 3s12p

earthrealm:


since they are both meeting at the battery head, whats the use of separating them?.. some high end smrt inverters have solar or grid priority setting, and this may ony allow one charging point if configured properly.

in all my set ups, have never bothered separating the 2 charging sources,, and zero issues, ikewise many folks here.
observed in mine..that depending on the state of charge of the battery, the solar charging is throttled down a bit when grid charging kicks in

Okay... let's hear from other gurus too.

One reason why I am all for separation is to actually cut down on electricity bill.
And technically, I think it is the ideal thing to do.

How do hybrid inverters work? Do they switch between the two (AC mains and Solar charging)?

Jean2:


Okay... let's hear from other gurus too.

One reason why I am all for separation is to actually cut down on electricity bill.
And technically, I think it is the ideal thing to do.

How do hybrid inverters work? Do they switch between the two (AC mains and Solar charging)?

This is 2018, manufacturer are thinking like you as well..

Hybrid inverter can work the way you want it, Check out Epsolar UPower series it's all you need.. you can customize the way you want inorder to save electricity bill

It can charge with both AC mains and Solar at the same time, or one at a time, you can even limit total charge current so there is not excess current charging the Batteries..