miracle1997:
I will like to ask a question,is it advisable to use a 6inch block for foundation(dry land)... Like is it ok

It is not advisable. Unless Gen House or mini security house. For storey building and high rise Bungalow. Please use 9 inches. Foundation is key to what is on top as building.

Chekitaut:
Am scared in Benin, Edo state is like all the Bricklayers have collided to sent all the Engineers packing, thereby building dead traps for people.

You can not imagine building a storey building with 6inches(throughout) block 12mm steel road for columns.

I swear entering some build in Benin, Edo State is like"Eferevor" ...u go wond ooo.

Really? Wowww.

Season Greetings my gallants,Builders,Quantity Surveyor's, Architects, Civil Engineer's to mention but a few. I am a recent graduate from the great Yaba College of Technology,studied civil engineering in the capacity of Higher National Diploma. I'm currently looking for an internship before my nysc service which would come up later next year. Am responsible and ready to learn, more about fieldwork beyond the four walls of the Institution. Mr Ayobami.

megacontrol:
I think someone asked this question recently but I've searched and can't find any reference. here you go...

what is the best way to abandon an old soak away?
just leave it, open up and fill up with rubbles or junks, any other best practice advised?

We plan to make a new style soak away system, the old one in the building will not be required anymore.

Thanks for your contributions.

There's no quick fix solution, only the right solution:

Evacuate the pit. Dismantle the blocks and evacuate.

Fill pit with red laterite sand. Allow to settle for one raining season. Fill with more laterite after initial settlement. Allow to settle another raining season, so minimum two years. You may then build on it.

NEVER fill pits with rubbles, pure water nylon, biodegradable materials like plants, trees, food waste, clayey sand etc. This will make the soil unstable to support any meaningful structure.

diordaves:


There's no quick fix solution, only the right solution:

Evacuate the pit. Dismantle the blocks and evacuate.

Fill pit with red laterite sand. Allow to settle for one raining season. Fill with more laterite after initial settlement. Allow to settle another raining season, so minimum two years. You may then build on it.

NEVER fill pits with rubbles, pure water nylon, biodegradable materials like plants, trees, food waste, clayey sand etc. This will make the soil unstable to support any meaningful structure.

Nice!

Addition to this; You can also compact with compacting machine as you fill with laterite for quick soil settlement.

Timtol:

Lol
I like this man.
Good!

No Sir. She is a well respected woman with more balls than most of us here.

Hajji M.

mufutau55:


No Sir. She is a well respected woman with more balls than most of us here.

Hajji M.

Smiles!
Ok sir.

Builders in the house, your advice is needed.

A house that has dampness after screeding and painting, what other things can I do to it aside setting tiles or small hardcore on the wall?

Note that we can't go back to the foundation.

Chekitaut:
This is misleading post, are you an engineer to explain load bearing? Oga consult for soil test & involve expert.

I don't think u read my text very well, l said for my own , raised ur point let them see, u don't need this ,pls pls

showietee:
Builders in the house, your advice is needed.

A house that has dampness after screeding and painting, what other things can I do to it aside setting tiles or small hardcore on the wall?

Note that we can't go back to the foundation.

There is pretty not much you can do. The water would still move above the level of the tile and manifest. If you tile the whole place, it would simply look for another weak spot.
If it's possible to peel the paint which shouldn't be due to the damp effect, repair screeding with pop paint, some cement and some binder in little amount so as to make it permeable to water vapor.
If the screeding isn't damaged, then just try to remove the paint (peel) and apply matte emulsion with anti fungi and algae additive to prevent growth.
The damp wall won't allow mold and other growths on the wall and the ground water would be leaving the surface more unhindered.
Ensure adequate ventilation for damp air to escape.

Expact advise is need. I want block makers (manual/hand moulders) to produce 35 blocks per cement bag for me but they insist on produce 27-29 blocks per cement of 9" Are they right to tell me 35 blocks per bag of cement is no good or what? What advice would you give on 6" per cement.

Thanks

Takoro13:
Expact advise is need. I want block makers (manual/hand moulders) to produce 35 blocks per cement bag for me but they insist on produce 27-29 blocks per cement of 9" Are they right to tell me 35 blocks per bag of cement is no good or what? What advice would you give on 6" per cement.

Thanks

To the best of my understanding sir, 27 is the set standard but if you can maintain 30 it's fair but best do the 27.
I've seen 55per bag before and 120 per 2bags which is very bad.
30 is cool n fair.

Timtol:
I like this Chekitaut

Bros, is good we are blunt so people reading words here do not think that we are just jokers, people should hold ther area of specialisations.

Timtol:

To the best of my understanding sir, 27 is the set standard but if you can maintain 30 it's fair but best do the 27.
I've seen 55per bag before and 120 per 2bags which is very bad.
30 is cool n fair.

God will bless you, let me also make it clear you can never get good result from hand mould block, reason hand can never vibrate what machine does, if you still have to use hand to mould blocks, i employ you to take all measures to reinforced your structure, for bungalow as low as one board raft & tie @ lintel you avoid crack. Build safe, 2019 we will build home not house. God bless you Happy New Year.

Happy new year all, to everyone on this thread We will all continue to receive Gods blessings.

Happy New Year to everyone one on this thread. I wish everyone a more prosperous year.

Takoro13:
Expact advise is need. I want block makers (manual/hand moulders) to produce 35 blocks per cement bag for me but they insist on produce 27-29 blocks per cement of 9" Are they right to tell me 35 blocks per bag of cement is no good or what? What advice would you give on 6" per cement.

Thanks

Depending on what type of structure you want and your soil strength. 30 - 33 is very good. 35 is relatively OK for a strong soil too and a storey building as well. In this case. You as a client have the right over the block molders coz you pay them by per bag or block numbers. Depending on the level of agreement reached. I have used blocks molded by 27 per bag and with stone dust. It's the strongest I have seen so far for residential houses.

Dennis3D:


Depending on what type of structure you want and your soil strength. 30 - 33 is very good. 35 is relatively OK for a strong soil too and a storey building as well. In this case. You as a client have the right over the block molders coz you pay them by per bag or block numbers. Depending on the level of agreement reached. I have used blocks molded by 27 per bag and with stone dust. It's the strongest I have seen so far for residential houses.

If yu will agree with me molding block with stonedust with hand is not as stong as molding with machine, the stone inside will not encourage good compaction.

why did sir EgunMogaji deactivate his account? i hope all is fine?

Happy new year people.

BestDude:
why did sir EgunMogaji deactivate his account? i hope all is fine?
Happy new year people.

I think he is still here, mat be just busy.

Hajji M.

Happy New Year 2019, my people.
May God Almighty give us good health, happiness, joy and plenty money for more buildings in this new year o.

Hajji M.

Chekitaut:
God will bless you, let me also make it clear you can never get good result from hand mould block, reason hand can never vibrate what machine does, if you still have to use hand to mould blocks, i employ you to take all measures to reinforced your structure, for bungalow as low as one board raft & tie @ lintel you avoid crack. Build safe, 2019 we will build home not house. God bless you Happy New Year.

Sir, I don't advice anyone to use hand ooo cos hand can never do the vibration well like the machine designed for it.
The worse term scenario it shouldn't be used more than for a small portable bungalow.
I disagree on this, using hands isn't good enough and perhaps the KN of the block done by a machine is definitely different from the ones made by mere human hand.
We are on same page bro

Timtol:

Sir, I don't advice anyone to use hand ooo cos hand can never do the vibration well like the machine designed for it.
The worse term scenario it shouldn't be used more than for a small portable bungalow.
I disagree on this, using hands isn't good enough and perhaps the KN of the block done by a machine is definitely different from the ones made by mere human hand.
We are on same page bro

i neva go against your word...you on point

Chekitaut:
If yu will agree with me molding block with stonedust with hand is not as stong as molding with machine, the stone inside will not encourage good compaction.

It's with machine o. You have been to my site now were I used it in Lakowe. It's pure machine and stone dust. Now the result is. The more the day pass by the harder the block is. Normal nail can't penetrate the block as we speak. Coz the more rain beats it and sun heats it. It gets harder and stronger.

A good setting out; more importantly soil bearing capacity and foundation level established up to German level stage often cause cracks, because with time, it settles differentially. I have seen machine moulded blocks used in building cracking too! Though, all mixing ratios being equal, machine moulded blocks will be better off than manual moulding. As the saying goes: when we build, let us think that we build forever!

Happy new year to all Nairalanders throughout the universe.
More good things to come this new year and locate each and everyone of us.
Amen.

Rotech construction

Takoro13:
Expact advise is need. I want block makers (manual/hand moulders) to produce 35 blocks per cement bag for me but they insist on produce 27-29 blocks per cement of 9" Are they right to tell me 35 blocks per bag of cement is no good or what? What advice would you give on 6" per cement.

Thanks

gud dey sir, or ma, happy new year , they try to let u know what u don't know , they are professional wanted to do good job for u, if u insist on 35 , per bag they will do it, but it will tell in ur building nearest future, it will not strong at all, so therefore monitor them let them do it that 29, it will be OK than 35, thanks

In construction work, there are substitute/alternative materials to use and when done right, it'll give the desired result.
In as much as 6" blocks, Y12 are not the recommended to use for single storey buildings Engineering wise, that does not mean a structure done with such will not stand if the individual doing such knows what he's doing.
The use of Y12 for single storey building as wholesome reinforcement material is not just peculiar to Edo State, you can add Imo State to that list and some other states.
The use of 9" blocks for foundation wall of bungalows is a nice option but not a guarantee that the building will not have defects.
There's also no known article anywhere that says complete lintel chaining prevents wall cracks.
In certain riverine communities in Bayelsa State, those who have the resources have to transport granite materials across water via pontoon-barge to effect their building construction works. Others who can't, make use of periwinkle shells and 3/8" coarse as aggregate materials for concrete works for their single storey buildings.

Thanks for your quick and detailed response as always.
however, there is no plan to build on that section of the land. it's just going to be compound space or car park or something.
no structure planed to go on it, the new pit will be located in a new spot.

Does this change your submission? can we evacuate, fill up and just cover it up in one go?

diordaves:


There's no quick fix solution, only the right solution:

Evacuate the pit. Dismantle the blocks and evacuate.

Fill pit with red laterite sand. Allow to settle for one raining season. Fill with more laterite after initial settlement. Allow to settle another raining season, so minimum two years. You may then build on it.

NEVER fill pits with rubbles, pure water nylon, biodegradable materials like plants, trees, food waste, clayey sand etc. This will make the soil unstable to support any meaningful structure.

Landmark architect and construction...He his in imota, Caleb University to be precise contact: 08153295492

Sumuni:
Hello everyone, please can someone help me with contact details of competent builders at Imota after Ikorodu that can help complete a building and monitor the quality of work done. Thank you all.