bigrovar:


welcome to the club bro. The system I setup some times in july last year is still running and has been logging away without issues. Even when I am out of the country, I can still always take a peep and see what is happening. Using the solar equipment with open communication port and documentations (Looking at Victron and to some extent some tracer and epsolar devices) is also very important if you are considering going this route.

I've been a fan of your dashboard for several months from last year already, actually; it's so functional and pretty and was partly where I got my inspiration, so thanks. My post was geared more towards novices to visualization resources such as yours truly.

Quashie proprietory visualization and data logging interfaces come with my current budget and so far robust components by MPP Solar. I had also during last year tried my hands on building dashboards based on Grafana/Chronograf and the like for use with the PCM60x (attached,) but later slacked off so I'm learning.

Now my mind is further energized as I delve further into the Pi 3 ...

That being said, I'd still love to build something similar to your dashboard if you'll please share your processes/code with me? My new frontline PIP5048 is also Axpert/Voltronic based, although I'm yet to fully deploy it.

........
P34c3
.....
...

Greetings my gurus, am a newbie. Pls I have a question. I have the following. Must EP3000PRO 24V, One-solar 60a MPPT, 6 Pieces Poly Panels of 250w each. My question is this if I install all these with 2 pieces 200ah batteries, wont the grid and the Solar be charging my batteries the same time? My inverter is not hybrid. How do I resolve this issue?

duwdu:


I've been a fan of your dashboard for several months from last year already, actually; it's so functional and pretty and was partly where I took my inspiration from, so thanks. My post was geared more towards novices to visualization resources such as yours truly.

And aside from vizualization and data logging interfaces provided by my current budget and so far robust components by MPP Solar, I had also last year tried my hands on building dashboards based on Grafana/Chronograf and the like (attached,) but later slacked off; so I'm learning.

That being said, I'd still love to build something similar to your dashboard if you'll please share your processes/code with me? My new frontline PIP5048 is also Axpert/Voltronic based, although I'm yet to fully deploy it.

........
P34c3
.....
...

If I am not mistaken the system you are monitoring is the axpert inverter? which communication media are you using? The supplied usb connection cable? I asked because that cable driver is an issue and I was only able to get it to work by treating it as a hardware input device and the hack was not that easy. How did you do the connection in your case?

makavele:


The only wire I can see with my "novice" eyes coming out the opposite direction is the inverter negative cable . . .
please clarify more and i,ll see if it is fix-worthy
are you talking bout the blue and yellow wires (battery to bus bar cables)
i doubt so. once again clarify, until then, peace out

Lols.
When did you park from your bridge?

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10KVA/180V N790,000


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LONG BATTERY 12V/200AH N 120,000
MONBAT BATTERY 12V/200AH N 125,000
ELSON BATTERY 12V/200AH N 115,000
MICROTEC BATTERY 12V/200AH N 105,000
M POWER BATTERY 12V/200AH N 115,000
EASTMAN 12V/200AH TALL TUBULAR BATTERY N115,000
GLT BATTERY 12V/200AH N 90,000
ZEEDIX BATTERY 12V/200AH N 95,000
RITAR BATTERY 12V/200AH N 130,000
PRAG BATTERY 12V/200AH N 140,000
GENUS BATTERY 12V/200AH N125,000
RITAR 200A BATTERY .......................N 115,000
MOTOMA 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000
CINEMAX 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000
QUANTA BATTERY 12V/200AH N 140,000
ALIGRAND 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000
NPP 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000


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BATTERY RACK 2 BATTERY N 15,000
BATTERY RACK 4 BATTERIES N 30,000
BATTERY RACK 8 BATTERIES N 50,000


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20A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 20,000
30A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 25,000
40A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 50,000
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60A 48v PWM controller (LCD) N 95,000


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20A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 15,000
30A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 20,000
40A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 25,000
50A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 32,000
60A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 41,000
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50A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 32,000
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60A 48v N140,000
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duwdu:
The Raspberry Pi 3 Model B is an incredible, nifty machine and is truly affordable. These will have to partially explain why many arrays of developers favour it so much as a platform of choice for apps and IoT stuff, majorly of the open-source types.

In this case, attached are four screen shots of the SolarSnoop/PCM60X Monitor app on the Pi, by a developer and in use with my charge controller. It's freely available on GitHub. It uses a browser interface and is thus available to be interacted with within the range of a WiFi network, or from anywhere on the Internet, on a browser.

I set up this my own particular install of the PCM60X Monitor to auto-refresh every minute, which interval is good enough for me.

Hope some of us who are not already using equivalent or better solutions to monitor/visualize their RE set ups, will be encouraged to find similar ones for own use.

........
P34c3
.....
...

I'd like to have something like this for the Midnites too. Sadly, the closest I came was with an Android App (though there's some German Raspberry Pi compiles which seem to work just fine).

bigrovar:


If I am not mistaken the system you are monitoring is the axpert inverter? which communication media are you using? The supplied usb connection cable? I asked because that cable driver is an issue and I was only able to get it to work by treating it as a hardware input device and the hack was not that easy. How did you do the connection in your case?

The component I'm monitoring and have shown is just my PCM60x CC so far and it is a Voltronic/MPPSolar product. It is coupled with a VIL Star-Light Power Inverter. Like I said, I'm yet to deploy my Axpert/Voltronic based PIP5048GK.

The com cable supplied with the CC (and also one of the cables that come with the PIP) is ethernet/RJ45-to-RS232. Based on what I learnt from MPP Solar and on other forums (chiefly secondlifestorage - yeah, I once saw one bigrovar post on there, hehehe) I then got a RS232-to-USB converter from Amazon. It has worked like a charm to seamlessly interface the CC with my PC/Pi via USB. I don't have the particular link handy, but the trick is to get one with a Prolific chip. Appropriate Prolific drivers are auto installed on Linux. For Windoze, they're available on Prolific's website.

(BTW, I also tried the RJ45-to-USB cable sold for EPSolar/Ever products but that did not work for me.)

........
P34c3
.....
...

How can I achieve the scenerio below :
Make a device to come on only when instantaneous energy from a solar array reaches 1500W and then goes off when it falls below 500W?

duwdu:


The component I'm monitoring and have shown is just my PCM60x CC so far and it is a Voltronic/MPPSolar product. It is coupled with a VIL Star-Light Power Inverter. Like I said, I'm yet to deploy my Axpert/Voltronic based PIP5048GK.

The com cable supplied with the CC (and also one of the cables that come with the PIP) is ethernet/RJ45-to-RS232. Based on what I learnt from MPP Solar and on other forums (chiefly secondlifestorage - yeah, I once saw one bigrovar post on there, hehehe) I then got a RS232-to-USB converter from Amazon. It has worked like a charm to seamlessly interface the CC with my PC/Pi via USB. I don't have the particular link handy, but the trick is to get one with a Prolific chip. Appropriate Prolific drivers are auto installed on Linux. For Windoze, they're available on Prolific's website.

(BTW, I also tried the RJ45-to-USB cable sold for EPSolar/Ever products but that did not work for me.)

........
P34c3
.....
...

Thanks for the update.

Can you expatiate on what you tryna do?

I'm not sure you can do this, and it's not a good parameter to use for control.
You can produce instantaneous power of 1.5Kw, but only 200w reach the batteries.

Consider using the battery Voltage or SOC for your control system.

mank1234:
How can I achieve the scenerio below :
Make a device to come on only when instantaneous energy from a solar array reaches 1500W and then goes off when it falls below 500W?

mank1234:
How can I achieve the scenerio below :
Make a device to come on only when instantaneous energy from a solar array reaches 1500W and then goes off when it falls below 500W?

Not unless you have faily advanced systems like Victron, SMA or fronius which allow programming of auxiliary relays

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Barezzi:
Can you expatiate on what you tryna do?

I'm not sure you can do this, and it's not a good parameter to use for control.
You can produce instantaneous power of 1.5Kw, but only 200w reach the batteries.

Consider using the battery Voltage or SOC for your control system.

Bro. How area. Abeg ping me backstage i lost your number during a phone swap.

pranil:


Not unless you have faily advanced systems like Victron, SMA or fronius which allow programming of auxiliary relays

It can easily be achieved if voltage is use as the signal instead of power. I currently have a system that uses the battery voltage as the signal to active a low/high disconnect monitoring Relay which in turn activate or de-activate contactors. These contactors control selected loads such fridge, ACs, sockets etc

Hello Niyi,

I was hoping you could help me out as you know a lot about batteries.

I want to install a 5kVA solar PV system at home. I have had offers for regular lead acid batteries, tubular batteries and lithium ion batteries (GSL Powerwall). I want to know what you think is a good option for me.

Setup wise, I've had the following offers

12 Solar Panels (24V, 250W); 8 batteries (12V, 150A)

20 Solar Panels (24V, 250W); 10 batteries (200Ah)/12 batteries (150Ah)

16 Solar Panels (250W); 8 batteries (220Ah)

According to my estimates, the fridges use 450W, the TV 100W, the ACs 1472W, the Fans 375W, the Bulbs 135W and the Laptop 60 W.

We are moving house so the plan is to cut down on our energy use. Consequently, I'm hoping to wire the house in such a way that when the inverter is receiving power from the panel or grid, everything can be put on but when the inverter is drawing power from the batteries, only essential power points will be available.

I've been reading some of your posts and would really appreciate your input.

Thanks

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I agree with these broad conclusions but 500 cycles for Quanta would imply end users get less than 2 years life at 50% DoD per day.

To throw in some real life into all these spec sheets;

I have actual field data from at least 100 12v 200Ah batteries I have installed - a good number of them have already passed the 2 year mark and still going strong - this with users who don't even know what DoD means or respect DoD.

I can only conclude that the Quanta manufacturer estimates are overly conservative or the battery capacity is understated.

Oga Dapsyra gave some hard field data for his LTO batteries over a 15month period - I look to similar field data for the BattleBorns instead of just projected lab results.

I do not think it is practical to use a 100% DoD assumption for any battery bank with more than one battery connected in series except the battery capacity was understated.

I would really love a LTO or similar bank to play with but the entry cost is rather steep - sad to say I 'd rather replace my Quanta 3 times over a 10 year period than throw 10 million naira into a Lithium battery bank and hope for a 10 year lifespan without field evidence to back me up.

Nearly 80% of the Lithium reviews I come across tell me people are still trying to gain mastery of this Lithium tech.

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Keye 3.5kva/48v 150,000
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EP Solar 12/24/36/48v 60a mppt(i tracer) solar charge controller @ 135k
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Trojan 12v 205a agm batteries ... 165k
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USA Deka 12v 210a .......190k
USA Mnspd 300 DC / AC ..... 50k
Schneider DC SPD ..........30k
AC/DC true RMS Clamp meters
UNI-T 203 ...N 20k
Suoer intelligent-automatic 30A 12V Battery Charger (MA-1230A) .... N 20k
DC display meters 0-30v...N 1600
DC display meters 0-120v..N 2200
ZHC Battery equalizer 12/24/36/48 volts..... 24k
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Long 150a slim AGM battery..93,000
Long 100a AGM battery ........ 65,000
Long 100a carbon battery ..... 75,000
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12v 150ah= 60,000
12v 200ah= 80,000
Maximum power batteries
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12v 150ah= 60,000
12v 200ah= 80,000
Double tech batteries
12v 100ah= 40,000
12v 150ah= 60,000
12v 200ah= 80,000
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12v 250ah= 115,000
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15kva Single phase 157,000
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2001 Spirit Plus 2kva 135,000
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Mercury 2.4kva Inverter 45,000
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Mercury 200ah AGM battery 100,000
Mercury 100ah AGM battery 55,500

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Luminous 3.5kva/48v Cruise..180k
Luminous 5kva/96v Cruise ....400k
Luminous 7.5kva/120v Cruise..500k
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Luminous 15kva/240v.............1m
Luminous 20kva/360v............ ----

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Prag √√√√√ 1.2kva 12v....N70,000
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Prag √√√√√ 1.5kva 24v....N92,000
Prag √√√√√ 2.5kva 24v....N95,000 "Promo"
Prag √√√√√ 1.5kva 24v....N96_000

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Prag inverter 3kva 24v ....N145,000
Prag inverter 5kva 48v...N250,000
Prag inverter 7.5kva 120v ....N410,000
Prag inverter 10kva 180v....N480,000

Prag 4kva 24v wall H ......N240,000
Prag 6.5kva 48v wall H....N350,000


PRAG servo & relay stabilizers ;

-Prag 3kva relay B(95-280v)..N
-Prag 3kva relay E(95-280v)..N
-Prag 10kva servo ..N110,000
-Prag 10kva servo(130-250v)..N115,000
-Prag 12kva servo...N
-Prag 15kva relay(95-280v)...N110,000 "Promo"
-Prag 15kva servo(80-260v)..N220,000
-Prag 15kva servo(130-260v)..N190,000
-Prag 20kva servo(130-260v)...N230,000
-Prag 20kva relay cabinet(95-280v).. N150,000
-Prag 20kva servo(80-260v) ...N330,000
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Felicity inverters ;
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3.5kva 24v .............155,000
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Felicity solar charge controllers 12-48v specs;
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40a pwm. ............25,000
50a pwm..............30,000
60a pwm..............35,000
40a mppt..............95,000
60a mppt .............120,000

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Protek 200L solar water heater... N215,000
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NairaBaba:


It can easily be achieved if the voltage is used as the signal instead of power. I currently have a system that uses the battery voltage as the signal to active a low/high disconnect monitoring Relay which in turn activate or de-activate contactors. These contactors control selected loads such fridge, ACs, sockets etc

Not for Solar production. SOC and voltage is not directly related to solar production in Inverter charger setup. if NEPA is available the inverter will keep the battries charged so Solar is still idling

Using SOC to optimize smaller loads like Refrigeration and pumps will not optimally work as the PV production can change every minute and may not match the load profile cycling the battery unnecessarily - ( every unit /KWH from battery will cost you 50 NGN while solar will be producing at 25 to 30 NGN so it makes sense to optimize the battery not solar


The only way to fully optimize excess solar production is to monitor incoming power and solar production and use AC coupling

in off-grid setup USE Battery, voltage /SOC to run a large load like water heater makes sense if the energy gain is significantly high


However, the easiest way to do this is if you have a charge controller with load output - e.g. epsolar/morningstar/victron - The load output can start a relay which will control opportunistic loads such a water pumping / AC/water heating -



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvNk-VBbCRU



see the clip I made earlier where the system only takes 100 watt from grid and balance from solar

ojeysky:


Can you let me know the model/spec of this freezer?
Thanks

Sorry I'm seeing your post late.

I should be home by the weekend. I will take pictures of the information on the sticker and the model number and get it across to you.

ojeysky:


Can you let me know the model/spec of this freezer?
Thanks

LG freezer of similar capacity is still same wattage, also samsung....
i simply went with my watt meter when i was freezer hunting, i suggest you do same

Good day Sir and many thanks for the A2A.

When I add all your loads together, I get 1.12kw without ACs while with one AC as you stated we are looking at 2.6kw of loads.

With any lead acid battery bank you are looking at at least 20-24 units of 12v 200Ah batteries to power 2.6kw of loads continuously except AC use is planned for solar hours or On-Grid only. With 1.12kw of loads we are looking at 10-12 12v 200Ah batteries to power the load continuously.

With a Lithium bank, you may be able to get away with 80% DoD and a smaller battery bank size albeit at a steep entry cost.

For 1.12Kw of loads, 12pcs of 250w panels should do, although I always like to oversize my PV array slightly, 2.6kw of loads we are looking at the 18-24 panel option (assuming 48v nominal inverter and batteries).

I can't tell which is Lithium or Lead Acid in your 3 battery options but all the battery sizes appear rather undersized for the loads you want to power except you scale down the loads or actively manage them.

Long and short is none of the offers seem to cut it at first glance, you would probably have to mix and match across the offers.

For panels, I recommend Canadian Solar for solid performance at a good price - You may reach out directly to discuss how you may optimize your system design and I can also supply you Canadian Solar panels and Quanta batteries at very good prices if you wish.

CNN80:
Hello Niyi,

I was hoping you could help me out as you know a lot about batteries.

I want to install a 5kVA solar PV system at home. I have had offers for regular lead acid batteries, tubular batteries and lithium ion batteries (GSL Powerwall). I want to know what you think is a good option for me.

Setup wise, I've had the following offers

12 Solar Panels (24V, 250W); 8 batteries (12V, 150A)

20 Solar Panels (24V, 250W); 10 batteries (200Ah)/12 batteries (150Ah)

16 Solar Panels (250W); 8 batteries (220Ah)

According to my estimates, the fridges use 450W, the TV 100W, the ACs 1472W, the Fans 375W, the Bulbs 135W and the Laptop 60 W.

We are moving house so the plan is to cut down on our energy use. Consequently, I'm hoping to wire the house in such a way that when the inverter is receiving power from the panel or grid, everything can be put on but when the inverter is drawing power from the batteries, only essential power points will be available.

I've been reading some of your posts and would really appreciate your input.

Thanks

I broke down and joined the LG AC Revolution. I run it from 1030 am to 430 pm daily and for 1 hour at night. I am not so sure that it is that much more efficient than a regular AC. There are many options on how I can run it relative to the window unit I have in my office.
My Nissan leaf batteries are kicking ass.

earthrealm:


LG freezer of similar capacity is still same wattage, also samsung....
i simply went with my watt meter when i was freezer hunting, i suggest you do same

In fact, right now there is hardly any electronics purchase I do without taking my wattmeter along. The merchants always look like "what is this guy doing" whenever I request their indulgence to plug in the appliance thru the meter when testing.

Apparently majority of them do not know that "energy savers" should be the watchword either on grid power or green power.

Oga Ojeysky should get a wattmeter as a handy tool. It'll help a lot.

CNN80:


According to my estimates, the fridges use 450W, the TV 100W, the ACs 1472W, the Fans 375W, the Bulbs 135W and the Laptop 60 W.

Thanks

I'm assuming your calculation for the bolded are based on the maximum power consumed. So aside from Oga Niyi's recommendation, you can still get more run time if you switch to energy saving mode. Your bulbs can be changed to low power LED bulbs. A 60" Hisense TV that peaks at 150 watts drops to 45 watts at energy saving settings. So you may want to consider using TVs with that feature.

chris81964:
I broke down and joined the LG AC Revolution. I run it from 1030 am to 430 pm daily and for 1 hour at night. I am not so sure that it is that much more efficient than a regular AC. There are many options on how I can run it relative to the window unit I have in my office.
My Nissan leaf batteries are kicking ass.

wow, this interface is pretty cool,

Reprobate:


wow, this interface is pretty cool,

Thank you

ojeysky:


Will patronise them if indeed it's how dey charge. I have reached out to them waiting for their response.
Thanks

update: i withdraw my referral of shoptomydoor, , they are going steadily downhill,
since they give you an address and you buy stuff and ship to their address, you are literally in their hands, a pal was forced to pay 4x the item weight price, as Shoptomydoor changed the game midway and came up with volumetric weight issh, item of about 10Lbs, now became 45Lbs, his previous 2 or 3 transactions with them was ok o

earthrealm:


update: i withdraw my referral of shoptomydoor, , they are going steadily downhill,
since they give you an address and you buy stuff and ship to their address, you are literally in their hands, a pal was forced to pay 4x the item weight price, as Shoptomydoor changed the game midway and came up with volumetric weight issh, item of about 10Lbs, now became 45Lbs, his previous 2 or 3 transactions with them was ok o

I reached their customer support and their response also gave me a hint that they are not good to deal with. Kindly provide update if you find another reliable shipper with reasonable price.

HI,

Thanks so much for answering me. I really appreciate it.

I wasn't planning to run any of the heavy power equipment on the batteries although I'm now considering running one AC, maybe one of those inverter ACs.

None of the offers was for a Lithium Battery. The 8 batteries offers were tubular batteries; the 10/12 Lead Acid.

The Lithium Ion Battery offer was for a SmartLiving PowerWall LiFePO4 Battery Pack (48 V 200Ah/9,600 Wh) with 12 315W Monocrystalline Solar Panels and a 6kVA Hybrid Inverter.

I'm looking to conserve power not consume it so the plan is to be as efficient as possible. Which is why I was hoping for an inverter or controller that will send power to the entire house when solar or grid energy is detected and power to a few designated power points when battery energy is detected.

What is special about the Quanta battery? What kind is it? Have you used it before?

Do you have any recommendations for inverters?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Good day Sir and many thanks for the A2A.

When I add all your loads together, I get 1.12kw without ACs while with one AC as you stated we are looking at 2.6kw of loads.

With any lead acid battery bank you are looking at at least 20-24 units of 12v 200Ah batteries to power 2.6kw of loads continuously except AC use is planned for solar hours or On-Grid only. With 1.12kw of loads we are looking at 10-12 12v 200Ah batteries to power the load continuously.

With a Lithium bank, you may be able to get away with 80% DoD and a smaller battery bank size albeit at a steep entry cost.

For 1.12Kw of loads, 12pcs of 250w panels should do, although I always like to oversize my PV array slightly, 2.6kw of loads we are looking at the 18-24 panel option (assuming 48v nominal inverter and batteries).

I can't tell which is Lithium or Lead Acid in your 3 battery options but all the battery sizes appear rather undersized for the loads you want to power except you scale down the loads or actively manage them.

Long and short is none of the offers seem to cut it at first glance, you would probably have to mix and match across the offers.

For panels, I recommend Canadian Solar for solid performance at a good price - You may reach out directly to discuss how you may optimize your system design and I can also supply you Canadian Solar panels and Quanta batteries at very good prices if you wish.

Hello,

How do I switch to enerygy saving mode? The max rating of any of our LED bulbs is 15W and we are planning to change all to at most 10W. Of course we won't have all on at the same time. I am a big proponent of sustainability.

By the way, can I run my water pump on solar?

ceaser:


I'm assuming your calculation for the bolded are based on the maximum power consumed. So aside from Oga Niyi's recommendation, you can still get more run time if you switch to energy saving mode. Your bulbs can be changed to low power LED bulbs. A 60" Hisense TV that peaks at 150 watts drops to 45 watts at energy saving settings. So you may want to consider using TVs with that feature.

Sure, you can run water pump on solar.

CNN80:
Hello,

How do I switch to enerygy saving mode? The max rating of any of our LED bulbs is 15W and we are planning to change all to at most 10W. Of course we won't have all on at the same time. I am a big proponent of sustainability.

By the way, can I run my water pump on solar?