DeLaRue:


Interesting. My downy mildew-infected Tokyo seems to produce much darker fruit than normal. I wonder if it's to do with the magnesium sulphate I applied when I initially mis-diagnosed the yellowing leaves as possible magnesium deficiency.

magnesium nah baba oo, your yield will be crazy, I've harvested 10 times, some plants are still blooming. I spray organic too

Pistotita:


Magnesium change a light green cucumber to darker green? Are you kidding me? I need to try it. Very light green to dark green? Are you for real? Cos it is simple to test. We just feed cu999 only well, and we see if it can produce such dark green color. Nutrition change the genetics of a variety?


This is new. It is going to open a new approach I am working if this is true. Please, I want to know more about it. I am always opened to new ideas. My apologies to @okoroemeka if this is true. Cos if there is a witness, there is an element of truth. I have to really test it. There must be something about manure. Just thinking....can it be Magnesium? Can it be the nutrients inside? Or what exactly is in manure that alters the gene? It is why I say that I use compost more for organic matters cos what is in that stuff and with microbes cannot be underestimated. This should be really investigated well. The more I study microorganisms activities, the more I just say "There is a supreme being somewhere".

Not that I have accepted your theory, but it's worth looking into. And with a practical farmer like @okoroemeka put it here, then, I should check it well.

cu999 from my farm today. You can google it, magnesium let you harvest more greener cukes

Manure
Espom salt
Staking
Will do the job perfectly

Manure
Espom salt
Staking will do the job.
Spraying organic that contains beneficial microbes its not bad too

I heard few efia in my nursery.
The harvest can last for how many months?
Can it yield like hybrids i.e avenir f1?
Did you topped it too?

okoroemeka:
we are not critical of East West seed,we just did an experiment that proves beyond any reasonable doubt the economic viability of planting monalisa in the south east,for me farming is not a hobby or passion,its my business and means of livelihood,today we transplanted 2000 Efia pepper by East West seed in our pepper megaproject alongside Cameroon habaneros,we will also order on Friday a further 4000 seeds from Mr olatian in East West,they are a good company no doubt,but I think it best for farmers to know were the pitfalls are,their habanero pepper has a good track record ,but I can't say that for the monalisa,pics of site B,Efia habaneros (East West)field transplanting.

FMCASH:
cu999 from my farm today. You can google it, magnesium let you harvest more greener cukes

Come on! This is still normal Cu999, though darker. But check the precious pictures. Those are extreme dark Cu999. Compare the two pictures very well.

In regards to Magnesium, it is not just it. Magnesium and Calcium work together. Spraying Magnesium is ok, I do it, but if you fertigate too much with it, Calcium will be deficient and that is disastrous. And Potassium will not be absorbed. The most important nutrient for fruiting is Potassium, followed by Calcium, and magnesium. Then, you talk of Suphur. Calcium is on another level because it is used to rectify PH. The best way is to balance nutrition using Nitrogen as a way to know the quantity of other elements needed in inorganic. For organic, I guess, it's just by checking the leaves if one is using compost, but one can use EC of compost tea also to check it.

My point is that you will get around 90% good looking Cu999 like yours with good nutrition, but the picture where Cu999 was cultivated with Monalisa was definitely cross pollination. That I am very sure of. And if you compare the pictures with yours, there is no regular rhythm in the color like this one you have just shown. You can still see some parts are just light especially the tip or top part of all the cukes. But yours blended very well.

Silence reader here. See images from my farm at 35 days. I have Jorad (on the mulch) and Cu999 on two different sections of approx 2.5plots and 3.4plots respectively.

I am looking to crop rotate, my people my question is which crops (probably tomatoes, peppers, chillis) can I plant next with limited experience and what cultivars will you recommend?

Thanks in advance.

Wizs2019:
Silence reader here. See images from my farm at 35 days. I have Jorad (on the mulch) and Cu999 on two different sections of approx 2.5plots and 3.4plots respectively.

Very nice. Plants are green, lush, and seem happy.

Sorry, I'll let others comment on rotation, though I believe anything outside the cucurbit family should be fine.

Back to your cucumber, I wonder if it's a problem with my phone - it seems there's little flowering going on even @ day 35. Perhaps this is normal with the varieties you're planting & the flowers will come on in a few days.

It's the images because they were taken at a distance and also the vegetation is quite vigorous. See some close-up images below.

FMCASH:
Manure
Espom salt
Staking will do the job.
Spraying organic that contains beneficial microbes its not bad too

Pls what is the quantity of the Epsom salt when to start using it and how often

Konafas:


Pls what is the quantity of the Epsom salt when to start using it and how often

I use 6 - 8 table spoons per large paint bucket of water. Some might use more than that, but I like to play it safe.

As for regularity, I only use once or twice during the lifetime of a cucumber plant. Excessive magnesium may interfere with the plants ability to take in other nutrients.

More importantly, if your plants are green and lush and showing no signs of distress, you should ask yourself if there's any need to apply magnesium.

DeLaRue:


I use 6 - 8 table spoons per large paint bucket of water. Some might use more than that, but I like to play it safe.

As for regularity, I only use once or twice during the lifetime of a cucumber plant. Excessive magnesium may interfere with the plants ability to take in other nutrients.

More importantly, if your plants are green and lush and showing no signs of distress, you should ask yourself if there's any need to apply magnesium.

Thank you so much

FMCASH:
I heard few efia in my nursery.
The harvest can last for how many months?
Can it yield like hybrids i.e avenir f1?
Did you topped it too?

Don't compare efia with avenir,they are two parallel line.its like comparing marketer cucumber seed with murano 2 f1 seed. O ju rawon lo.

ogbongenet:
Don't compare efia with avenir,they are two parallel line.its like comparing marketer cucumber seed with murano 2 f1 seed. O ju rawon lo.

efia is not hybrid and may not yield like avenir,but the main thing we are looking for is survivability first not yield,what benefit will it give to a farmer to plant a hybrid pepper that will contact disease easily in the rainy season and die off after 1 or 2 months of harvest or a localised variety that will yield 20-30% lesser but will survive the rainy season , and yield for 6 months+, hybrids are for dry season farming with drip irrigation.

okoroemeka:
efia is not hybrid and may not yield like avenir,but the main thing we are looking for is survivability first not yield,what benefit will it give to a farmer to plant a hybrid pepper that will contact disease easily in the rainy season and die off after 1 or 2 months of harvest or a localised variety that will yield 20-30% lesser but will survive the rainy season , and yield for 6 months+, hybrids are for dry season farming with drip irrigation.

I don't agree with you on this brother,instead of me to buy efia I will rather buy the Hausa local variety because it's fruiting capacity is even more than efia and it's far cheaper because a beer bottle full is like 12k . That bottle can plant like 30 acres.This is what I have been doing for more than 7year now. Be it local or hybrid will suffer disease during raining season, if not properly manage...even hybrid seed has resistance to some disease that the locals don't.its like saying you won't plant cu99 cucumber during a particular season ,instead you will plant pointsett or marketer.improved variety will always have edge on local variety

ogbongenet:
I don't agree with you on this brother,instead of me to buy efia I will rather buy the Hausa local variety because it's fruiting capacity is even more than efia and it's far cheaper because a beer bottle full is like 12k . That bottle can plant like 30 acres.This is what I have been doing for more than 7year now. Be it local or hybrid will suffer disease during raining season, if not properly manage...even hybrid seed has resistance to some disease that the locals don't.its like saying you won't plant cu99 cucumber during a particular season ,instead you will plant pointsett or marketer.improved variety will always have edge on local variety

but seriously I don't think there's a pepper variety that could surpass avenir in production,if there is then it will be very abnormal,last year we counted 300+ fruits on one plant alone and the branches started breaking due to weight of the fruits,I am not a big fan of technisem products,but MY GOD they got it right with the avenir,we are reserving it for our last batch ,by then rain must have stopped or reduced.

Like I always say, there is no perfect or the best cultivar. However, I prefer spotting excellent OP cultivars these days. I will want to try the hausa cultivar. If it gives me good production, it is very good. I use avenir too, and it performed terribly the last time. Every farm and soil has its own issue. There are still cultivars that outweigh Avenir's yield. What we know is what we know. No matter how we say we know, someone out there still know what we don't know. The best way around is to focus on perfecting our farming skills and also try to source for OPs, and grow my knowledge in seed preservation. If we spot good OPs, let us go for them instead of hybrids. Nothing special in hybrids. Just money making avenue for seed companies. Even OP left all eggplant hybrids, and chose green color OP from Cameroon. These OPs we rubbish are what seed companies are spending millions of dollars to spot excellent ones all over the world so they cross with another and rename hybrids.

Konafas:


Pls what is the quantity of the Epsom salt when to start using it and how often

3 sachet (75 grams) to 16 litres
4 to 5wks or when you notice the deficiency

Wizs2019:
Silence reader here. See images from my farm at 35 days. I have Jorad (on the mulch) and Cu999 on two different sections of approx 2.5plots and 3.4plots respectively.

I am looking to crop rotate, my people my question is which crops (probably tomatoes, peppers, chillis) can I plant next with limited experience and what cultivars will you recommend?

Thanks in advance.

hi pls how can i get ur contact .i wanna know about drip irrigation and the nylon.

FMCASH:
3 sachet (75 grams) to 16 litres
4 to 5wks or when you notice the deficiency

Thank you

FMCASH:
3 sachet (75 grams) to 16 litres
4 to 5wks or when you notice the deficiency

used as a foliar spray or soil additive will help tomato and pepper plants grow and produce larger, tastier yields.

Late in the season use an Epsom salt spray to increase tomato and pepper yield and keep plants green and bushy; early in the season add Epsom salt to the soil to aid germination, early root and cell development, photosynthesis, plant growth, and to prevent blossom-end rot.

Epsom salt is not actually salt but a natural mineral compound of about 10 percent magnesium and about 13 percent sulfur—often referred to as magnesium-sulfate. Epsom salt is highly soluble and easily taken in by plants when combined with water and sprayed on leaves. As a soil additive, Epsom salt becomes soluble with soil moisture and is drawn up into plants through the roots.

A magnesium or sulfur deficiency in the soil can cause tomato and pepper plants to grow small and spindly, leaves to yellow between leaf veins late in the season, and fruit to be slow in maturing and ripening.

HOW TO APPLY EPSOM SALT TO PLANTS:

• Foliar spray during season. Add two tablespoons of Epsom salt to a gallon of water and use tank sprayer to apply the mix once a month substituting the spray for a regular watering. Use one tablespoon per gallon of water if you apply Epsom salt spray more often than once a month. Begin foliar spraying when blooms first appear.

• Sidedressing during season. Work one tablespoon of Epsom salt per foot of plant height around the base of each plant. Sidedress plants every six weeks beginning soon after leaves appear and continuing through the end harvest.

• Soil additive at planting time. Add one or two tablespoons of Epsom salt to the bottom of each hole before planting seeds or transplants.

MORE USEFUL INFORMATION ABOUT MAGNESIUM AND SULFUR:

Magnesium is critical for seed germination, production of chlorophyll, and fruit development; it helps strengthen cell walls and improves plant uptake of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur.
Sulfur is critical for the production of vitamins, amino acids and protein, and enzymes.
Alkaline soils with a pH of 7 or greater and acidic soils high in calcium and potassium often have low levels of magnesium. Calcium and potassium compete with magnesium for uptake by plant roots—magnesium can be blocked from plant uptake by calcium and potassium.
Dolomitic lime which is used to raise the pH of acidic soils is rich in magnesium (46 percent calcium carbonate, 38 percent magnesium carbonate).
The soil additive Sul-Po-Mag (22 percent sulfur, 22 percent potassium, 11 percent magnesium) which is often added to alkaline soils should negate the need for Epsom salt .
Beans, peas, lettuce, and spinach produce good yields in soil with a low magnesium level.
A soil test will tell you if your soil is nutrient deficient. The cooperative extension service in your area or a private soil testing laboratory can perform a soil analysis.
Epsom salt is available at garden center and hardware stores as are most other soil additives.
Epsom salt gets its name from the town of Epsom in Surrey, England where the bitter salt was first produced from a saline spring.

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We harvested yesterday and I don't think it's wise anymore to show the numbet of monalisa harvested to save them from futher embarrassment,from our first harvest we have nearly got the money invested on the farm,from this second harvest and other subsequent ones is our sweat and tears wiper,we are estimating 10 bags from this second harvest,it's impressive considering we planted just 1500 crops on half plot.

Please, I noticed yellowish leaves, and although I applied NPK today as my senior boss advised, I noticed whitish marks now. Please I need to know what to do about it.

Note: I've not applied fungicide or any such in any of my planting before, only majorly manure.

Attached are the pics taken today

Yampotatocarrot:
Please, I noticed yellowish leaves, and although I applied NPK today as my senior boss advised, I noticed whitish marks now. Please I need to know what to do about it.

Note: I've not applied fungicide or any such in any of my planting before, only majorly manure.

Attached are the pics taken today

there is nothing variety cannot cause,that white marks looks like fertilizer burn,they looks fairly ok,but remember sack needs water more than soil farming,so be prepared to irrigate if no rain for 2 days, what's the variety?

Yampotatocarrot:
Please, I noticed yellowish leaves, and although I applied NPK today as my senior boss advised, I noticed whitish marks now. Please I need to know what to do about it.

Note: I've not applied fungicide or any such in any of my planting before, only majorly manure.

Attached are the pics taken today

Please try and ascertain the yellow spots are signs of nutrient deficiency and not downy mildew

okoroemeka:
there is nothing variety cannot cause,that white marks looks like fertilizer burn,they looks fairly ok,but remember sack needs water more than soil farming,so be prepared to irrigate if no rain for 2 days, what's the variety?

Its been raining regularly for now. These are murano variety.

My Cu999 were planted on ridges but destroyed by fowls. I guess they were seeking for the maggots in the manure I put in d soil.

Yampotatocarrot:


Its been raining regularly for now. These are murano variety.

My Cu999 were planted on ridges but destroyed by fowls. I guess they were seeking for the maggots in the manure I put in d soil.

that yellow spots is sign of downy mildrew,you have to find copper fungicide to apply like redforce, ridomil or tandem,and also remove affected leafs and dispose,if rain is too much we spray fungicide every 4 days interval to aviod stories.

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funsoul:

Please try and ascertain the yellow spots are signs of nutrient deficiency and not downy mildew

Thanks for your earlier analysis.

@funsoul and okoroemeka, I was able to cut away the affected plants, but couldn't apply the fungicides cos jt was the annual 7days rain, so it would have washed it away if I did.

However, the rain seems to be ending today, I'll like to know how to apply the stuff. I have a 16litres knapsack, how many cups will I use for it, and which size of container/cup?

Thanks

Yampotatocarrot:


Thanks for your earlier analysis.

@funsoul and okoroemeka, I was able to cut away the affected plants, but couldn't apply the fungicides cos jt was the annual 7days rain, so it would have washed it away if I did.

However, the rain seems to be ending today, I'll like to know how to apply the stuff. I have a 16litres knapsack, how many cups will I use for it, and which size of container/cup?

Thanks

you didn't state the type of fungicide you are using,they have different dosage,zforce,raksha,cotzeb@100 gram per knapsack, ridomil gold,redforce,tandem@50 gram per knapsack,saaf@25 gram per knapsack,if u still have an unopened pack just divide it accordingly equal parts,e,g saaf 250 gram you divide into 10 equal parts in nylon water proof.

Abeg, what's the efficacy of these so-called foliar spray fertilizer? Someone is preaching it to me. I remember Pistotita saying he took one to the lab and found nothing in it. Anyone else has tested? Any DIY kit to test things like that.