I have a Midnite Classic 250KS for sale (part of an order surplus including several MNSPD-300 and a disconnect box)

- max output current is 56A
- max input VoC is 250V DC
- max battery bank voltage is 120V nominal (yes, it can handle ten 12V batteries in series, for those 96V and 120V inverters used in ATMs, offices and some domestic installations)

Price is fixed at N360,000

O8O-239O-23O5 (WhatsApp and calls)

Pls, gurus in d house, how many watts of 24v or 12v solar panel can 20a, 24v/12v charge controller take?. thanks n waiting for your response.

makavele:


Very true, it peaked at 800+ at startup, but eventually went down to 600+.

The other regular units are stuck at +- 1300 all through.

So that means a 1.1Kva (better with a 1.5kva) inverter will stand "gidigba" if hooked to a stand alone modular unit for that 1hp inverter AC.

Nice.

Have been reading of sunpower and lg neon r panels with efficiency over 22% and made me want to ask.gurus what are efficiency of panels like Canadian Solar?

Namzy:

Dirt cheap solar panels? Bros show us the way

While I also found that I can get solar panels at cheaper rates than the ones posted in this thread I am curious to hear that of @NiyiOmoIyunade. I for instance got Flames 250w for 30k yet the quotes you see here are way beyond that.

duwdu:


The SPD has its own dedicated earthing slot on it (like I saw on those in the pdf file you posted earlier, have.) I ran a grounding wire direct from that slot to the grounding bus bar in my fuse box.

........
P34c3
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Can you kindly show me image of how you connected your SPD from the PV to the CC, the SPD I have (which was a gift to me) has only input and I am not sure how to connect it. It's a type2 SPD:
https://www.otowadenki.co.jp/eng/products/pdf/LS-YPV6012S%20%20LS-YPV10012S.pdf

Regards

hotdealz:
below is the battery that came with the fan. It says 12V.

I'm not using any external charger to charge it. It's a rechargeable fan. I'm using the inbuilt charger, I guess.

I disconnected the battery that came with it and connected the laptop battery directly to the wires.

Ojigbijigbi!!!
The in-built AC charger will definitely reach 14.4v or maybe 15v for a 12v lead battery. Now to place 14.4v charging voltage on the Li-on pack with bypassed BMS means each cell getting at least 4.8v instead of 4.2v max. Bro, you have been lucky for 3 months.

I have inadvertently shorted 18650s couple of times and it has always been a frightening experience each time. Now imagine those edgy lithium chemistry 18650s catching fire from overcharge.

All DIY 18650 setups that I have are outside the house. Even the factory made banks that I tinkered with by adding extra batteries are all installed outside the house. In freaking metal casings!

hotdealz:
I think some cells were dead before I started using them cos I didn't throw any cell away from the dead laptop battery as I have no means of testing anything.

Also, I only charge it for 5hours whenever it needs to be recharged which is mostly once in a week cos I only use the fan at night when there is no nepa light for the ceiling fan and that 5hours charge can carry me for about 5 nights at average speed before the fan stops working and needs to be recharged.

I have been doing it that way for 3 months plus now. Unless if charging it for the 5hours can raise the battery voltage above the 12.6v maximum. But, the battery has never for once gotten hot. Can it still explode without getting hot?

Where do I get a volt display so I can always put it off when it gets to about 12.4V? Or is there any device I can connect to it that would automatically stop charging once the volt gets to the 12.4V?

Bros, Abeg how you fit deal me used lappy batteries nau? Please your contact details. Thanks.

3.5kw/48v Fangpusun xtm available at 500k with one year warranty. 08098733709

durumibaka:
Pls, gurus in d house, how many watts of 24v or 12v solar panel can 20a, 24v/12v charge controller take?. thanks n waiting for your response.

Follow the manufacturer's rating,
Read the manual.

ojeysky:


Can you kindly show me image of how you connected your SPD from the PV to the CC, the SPD I have (which was a gift to me) has only input and I am not sure how to connect it. It's a type2 SPD:
https://www.otowadenki.co.jp/eng/products/pdf/LS-YPV6012S%20%20LS-YPV10012S.pdf

Regards

All you need is input, no output.
There should be three terminals, +ve input, -ve input, ground/earth.

ojeysky:


While I also found that I can get solar panels at cheaper rates than the ones posted in this thread I am curious to hear that of @NiyiOmoIyunade. I for instance got Flames 250w for 30k yet the quotes you see here are way beyond that.

Lol I got 340w Era solar for N44.5k and jinko 340w for 60k but I believe men here are getting ridiculous deals especially on barely used panels.

mktinsight:
Have been reading of sunpower and lg neon r panels with efficiency over 22% and made me want to ask.gurus what are efficiency of panels like Canadian Solar?

Efficiency here just means how small a panel can be to supply same watts for eg a 340w solar panels can be 72 cells and so the size will be bigger than a 60 cells 300w panels. But a manufacture can make that smaller frame deliver that same 340w making it more 'efficient' don't mistake efficiency by ability to deliver rated watts. It just means you need less roof space when used efficient solar panels since they are smaller and yet deliver same watts as some panels that might be bigger in size

Namzy:

Lol I got 340w Era solar for N44.5k and jinko 340w for 60k but I believe men here are getting ridiculous deals especially on barely used panels.

cc: ojesky

wowzers, mek una carry us along o

dragnet:

All you need is input, no output.
There should be three terminals, +ve input, -ve input, ground/earth.

Yes I have all those, so the cable coming from PV goes into the input, where do I get the cable to connect to my CC? I was thinking there will be output on the SPD that I will then put on my CC.
Please Pardon my questions am just a JJC on this stuff

Namzy:

Lol I got 340w Era solar for N44.5k and jinko 340w for 60k but I believe men here are getting ridiculous deals especially on barely used panels.

Actually the flames I was referring to were tear nylon brand new . I have gotten used 300w from some seller on this thread in the past (won't mention name) but that was before I discovered that new ones are not as expensive out there.

mctfopt:


You'd need a clamp meter to find out.



Clamp either the positive or negative terminal of the battery cable and turn on the inverter with no load connected to it. You can then be able to see the no load current drawn by it. A wattmeter can only check the wattage of devices connected to it.

This clamp meter keeps resurfacing as a reoccurring decimal amongst things I should have, having been able to get thru most applications I encountered with the use of the regular voltmeter.

Thanks for the prompt response.

zeestone99:


Switch off the output, measure the current with a clamp meter

Thanks bàbá.

ojeysky:

.

Yes I have all those, so the cable coming from PV goes into the input, where do I get the cable to connect to my CC? I was thinking there will be output on the SPD that I will then put on my CC.
Please Pardon my questions am just a JJC on this stuff

The cables coming from the PV:
goes into breaker (if available) then output to CC,
also PV input goes into the SPD but never comes out.

ojeysky:


Actually the flames I was referring to were tear nylon brand new . I have gotten used 300w from some seller on this thread in the past (won't mention name) but that was before I discovered that new ones are not as expensive out there.

You sure it wasn't a knock off?
many imitations/rebrands in the market.

dragnet:

You sure it wasn't a knock off?
many imitations/rebrands in the market.

Absolutely not, funny enough I have the used flames and the new flames so no; both performed the same and were exactly same as well

dragnet:

The cables coming from the PV:
goes into breaker (if available) then output to CC,
also PV input goes into the SPD but never comes out.

I am actually spinning my head over this, sorry am a network engineer by profession. When you say PV input goes into the SPD I am confused, there was only 2 cables on each solar panel, am not sure there is an input to PV. If you don't mind, could you show me this diagrammatically?

ceaser:



This clamp meter keeps resurfacing as a reoccurring decimal amongst things I should have, having been able to get thru most applications I encountered with the use of the regular voltmeter.

Thanks for the prompt response.

Get one, you'd eventually need it.

ojeysky:


I am actually spinning my head over this, sorry am a network engineer by profession. When you say PV input goes into the SPD I am confused, there was only 2 cables on each solar panel, am not sure there is an input to PV. If you don't mind, could you show me this diagrammatically?

Wire +ve from solar and +ve to controller to the same +ve terminal on the SPD. Do same for the - ve. SPD does not have input and output.
Then wire the ground to earth. No need for diagram.

It is however advised to out a circuit breaker along the path from solar to SPD. This is especially necessary if you one one terminal of your setup is grounded at any point to avoid the SPD shorting your power source when activated.

ojeysky:


I am actually spinning my head over this, sorry am a network engineer by profession. When you say PV input goes into the SPD I am confused, there was only 2 cables on each solar panel, am not sure there is an input to PV. If you don't mind, could you show me this diagrammatically?

I added a diagram but wasn't uploaded. There seem to be an issue with image upload at the moment.

Imagine that there are two loooong wires going from PV array to CC - one is the positive PV cable and the other is the negative PV cable.

You want your SPD to sit 'in line' with these two PV cables that go to the CC - you want your SPD to 'plug into' the circuit made between PV and CC *without breaking the connection* and monitor it for voltage surges - if SPD senses an incoming voltage above its set threshold on either positive or negative PV to CC cable, it immediately shorts that terminal that has higher than desired voltage to its (SPD's) ground terminal so that the surge voltage is primarily diverted to ground and does not make it to the CC. This is roughly the operating principle.

See very rough diagram below - bus bars are the best method to bring mulltiple cables together but you can use whatever technique makes for a solid mechanical and electrical connection

ojeysky:


I am actually spinning my head over this, sorry am a network engineer by profession. When you say PV input goes into the SPD I am confused, there was only 2 cables on each solar panel, am not sure there is an input to PV. If you don't mind, could you show me this diagrammatically?

Imagine that there are two loooong wires going from PV array to CC - one is the positive PV cable and the other is the negative PV cable.

You want your SPD to sit 'in line' with these two PV cables that go to the CC - you want your SPD to 'plug into' the circuit made between PV and CC *without breaking the connection* and monitor it for voltage surges - if SPD senses an incoming voltage above its set threshold on either positive or negative PV to CC cable, it immediately shorts that terminal that has higher than desired voltage to its (SPD's) ground terminal so that the surge voltage is primarily diverted to ground and does not make it to the CC. This is roughly the operating principle.

See very rough diagram below - bus bars are the best method to bring mulltiple cables together but you can use whatever technique makes for a solid mechanical and electrical connection - I have seen people shove the PV cable into the SPD terminal or shove both PV and SPD cables into the DC breaker terminal or shove PV and SPD cable into the CC terminal - they are using whatever terminal the wires are shoved into as the common connection point (as a bus bar as it were) but the neatest is yet to use a busbar or similar arrangement.

ojeysky:


I am actually spinning my head over this, sorry am a network engineer by profession. When you say PV input goes into the SPD I am confused, there was only 2 cables on each solar panel, am not sure there is an input to PV. If you don't mind, could you show me this diagrammatically?

Please I need advice from solar power users on this forum, sir's which is more suitable of this two type of battery for solar power setup?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Imagine that there are two loooong wires going from PV array to CC - one is the positive PV cable and the other is the negative PV cable.

You want your SPD to sit 'in line' with these two PV cables that go to the CC - you want your SPD to 'plug into' the circuit made between PV and CC *without breaking the connection* and monitor it for voltage surges - if SPD senses an incoming voltage above its set threshold on either positive or negative PV to CC cable, it immediately shorts that terminal that has higher than desired voltage to its (SPD's) ground terminal so that the surge voltage is primarily diverted to ground and does not make it to the CC. This is roughly the operating principle.

See very rough diagram below - bus bars are the best method to bring mulltiple cables together but you can use whatever technique makes for a solid mechanical and electrical connection

Thanks a lot, I will get the DC breaker and busbar as you've recommended. I have just finished hooking up 6 panels tonight with PV cable direct into the CC waiting for day to break tomorrow to see the performance. Can I still run the system without at it is for now pending when I install the SPD and DC breaker?

Thanks

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Imagine that there are two loooong wires going from PV array to CC - one is the positive PV cable and the other is the negative PV cable.

You want your SPD to sit 'in line' with these two PV cables that go to the CC - you want your SPD to 'plug into' the circuit made between PV and CC *without breaking the connection* and monitor it for voltage surges - if SPD senses an incoming voltage above its set threshold on either positive or negative PV to CC cable, it immediately shorts that terminal that has higher than desired voltage to its (SPD's) ground terminal so that the surge voltage is primarily diverted to ground and does not make it to the CC. This is roughly the operating principle.

See very rough diagram below - bus bars are the best method to bring mulltiple cables together but you can use whatever technique makes for a solid mechanical and electrical connection

Chief niyi

Needs recommendation on Reliable batteries 200AH.
Gennex Technologies do not have AGM or GEL, and I would havè gone for Quanta but they're not available either

So recommend another good one

Thanks

.

davodyguy:

Chief niyi

Needs recommendation on Reliable batteries 200AH.
Gennex Technologies do not have AGM or GEL, and I would havè gone for Quanta but they're not available either

So recommend another good one

Thanks

Gaston - 130k
Luminous blue - 120k
Spectra - 125k

1 year warranty

Call/whatapp 08117398294 to order