Deluxe8000:

thanks for the reply. What can i do? i am gradually loosing hope in solar system after inviting 2 engr. from nairaland. The last engr. promised me that it won't happen again after the installation of 580w solar panels(280 poly+300 mono) before i bought two batteries at the same time. The one i connected to the solar system is dead within 3months while the other one that i use with on-grid to charge is still very much ok.

CHOOOI, it must be an ngr that you invited to check ur setup, not an engr ...mixing mono and poly panels
quit complaining , you have been asked to state certain key points about your setup, you didnt comply.
lemme ask you again

1. make and rating of your charge controller
2. avg running load and peak load
3. inverter type and specs
4. battery type and specs
5. cable size used for all the connections
6. distances of panel to cc, cc to batt, batt to inverter


it may be better if you attach pictures as well, where applicable

ceaser:


Is that aluminium wires?

Pumping machine cables I know have copper conductors o, not aluminium. And maybe aluminium can still deliver enough juice for AC cabling, but in DC application, I think copper cabling is still best for efficiency, the recurrent watchword in solar set ups.

I have been informed that my cable is ready for collection. Though I had to settle for 6mm because the 10mm is no longer available. Will give feedback by tomorrow when I do the connection. The man says it is white copper(hmnn)

Deluxe8000:

thanks for the reply. What can i do? i am gradually loosing hope in solar system after inviting 2 engr. from nairaland. The last engr. promised me that it won't happen again after the installation of 580w solar panels(280 poly+300 mono) before i bought two batteries at the same time. The one i connected to the solar system is dead within 3months while the other one that i use with on-grid to charge is still very much ok.

It depends on your consumption as well. How much load do you have on your solar setup? From your explanation it seem you have a solar setup with a 12v battery and Southey l another utility setup with another 12v battery, is that correct?

Why did you choose to do mono and poly and what charge controller are you using?

earthrealm:


CHOOOI, it must be an ngr that you invited to check ur setup, not an engr .
quit complaining , you have been asked to state certain key points about your setup, you didnt comply.
lemme ask you again

1. make and rating of your charge controller
2. avg running load and peak load
3. inverter type and specs
4. battery type and specs
5. cable size used for all the connections
6. distances of panel to cc, cc to batt, batt to inverter


it may be better if you attach pictures as well, where applicable

1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix
)
2.avg running load 100w and peak load 150w
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter
4.Monarch Lead acid battery
5.Solar wire(kindly look at the pix)
6. distance from my part of the roof to my room.

olaolu11:

hi. I stumbled upon this thread and have read to 80 and is following from 540. You were prominent then but silent in the recent times so I thought you've upgraded to become an IPP. Glad to know you are very much around

lolz! learning is a continuum so it never stops even when you think you have 'arrived'.
the so-called IPPs you're talking about still do regular consultations in order to get fresh
ideas and renew strategies.
this forum was originally conceived as a 'diy' forum and still has a lot to offer for a lot of us.
so even if i have a 100kw system today, it won't be enough to make me complacent.

Deluxe8000:

.

1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix ---LIKELY CULPRIT NUMBER 1, I SUSPECT YOUR CC, WHATS THE MAX HARVEST, YOU HV EVER SEEN?, IS THE BATT CHARGING VOLTAGE SETPOINTS ADJUSTABLE...HOPE THEY ARE SET CORRECTLY, TOO HIGH A CHARGING VOLTAGE WILL FRY YOUR BATTERY, 2NDLY, CHK THAT UR CC DOESNT HV EQUALIZATION SETTING TURNED ON , DOES YOUR BATTERY/INVERTER RUN DOWN FREQUENTLY AND BEEPS??
)
2.avg running load 100w and peak load 150w ---- FAIR, CANNOT KILL BATTERY
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter --- USUALLY OK, THOUGH OUTPUT CHARGING VOLTAGE NEEDS TO BE CHECKED, TO BE SURE IT HASNT DEVELOPED A FAULT AND OUTPUTTING HIGH VOLTAGE
4.Monarch Lead acid battery --- UNKNOWN BRAND, NOT SO RELIABLE, LIKELY CULPRIT NUMBER 2
5.Solar wire(kindly look at the pix) ----- LOOKS LIKE 100MM/16MM AC CABLE, NOT THE BEST FOR DC OPS, BUT SHUD BE OK
6. distance from my part of the roof to my room. DOESNT LOOK FAR, SHUD BE OK, IF YOUR CABLE IS 10MM AND DISTANCE IS LESS THAN 30FT, YOU CAN USE THE CABLE CHARTS TO CONFIRM THIS, AM LAZY ASF NOW

hardywaltz:
Good evening house,
Please i need urgent help.
My office intends to install a solar system.
The installer gave a very questionable quotation.

Below is a brief summary of the installers spec
30kw 3 phase inverter,
100 units of 300w solar panels (24v)
60 units of 12v 200AH SMF

Duh its not in my department but my colleague asked me to help him since i have solar system in my house.
I made a few calls but it seems 40 kva inverters are not too common.

Based on some research i came up with a
40kva Inverter (360v)
105nr of 340w mono panels in 15S 7P arrangement
60nr of 12v 200Ah batteries in 30S 2P arrangement


Please
1. What brand of 40kva can be recommended ( if possible capable of custom setting for lithium battery cahrging )
2. Are there lithium batteries that can be connected in series to achieve 360v.

well just to add my voice. I believe ur office will not like to throw away money. why did they get single qoute/advise? they should open up and get 3 - 5 views and quote, call for defense and analysis of each system, then go for d best one. it is not this era an organization will throw away their money on single quote especially for high capacity system. shikenan nafada nawa

.

Deluxe8000:

1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix
)
2.avg running load 100w and peak load 150w
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter
4.Monarch Lead acid battery
5.Solar wire(kindly look at the pix)
6. distance from my part of the roof to my room.

From this it appears your setup is a 12v system. Possible scenarios:
1) charge controller may have been set to charge at 24v instead of 12v
2) charge controller if in auto mode, may be wrong in sensing voltage and thus thinks your setup is 24v system
3) you may have repeatedly drawn your battery below 9V.
Diagnostics:
1) Measure the charging voltage from the charge controller in full day light. Anything above 15v is red flag.
2) Put a meter to always display your battery voltage
3) Download and read ebooks on solar renewable energy.

[q
1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix ---LIKELY CULPRIT NUMBER 1, I SUSPECT YOUR CC, WHATS THE MAX HARVEST, YOU HV EVER SEEN?, IS THE BATT CHARGING VOLTAGE SETPOINTS ADJUSTABLE...HOPE THEY ARE SET CORRECTLY, TOO HIGH A CHARGING VOLTAGE WILL FRY YOUR BATTERY, 2NDLY, CHK THAT UR CC DOESNT HV EQUALIZATION SETTING TURNED ON , DOES YOUR BATTERY/INVERTER RUN DOWN FREQUENTLY AND BEEPS??
)
The "pv off" of the cc is set at 13.8v
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter --- USUALLY OK, THOUGH OUTPUT CHARGING VOLTAGE NEEDS TO BE CHECKED, TO BE SURE IT HASNT DEVELOPED A FAULT AND OUTPUTTING HIGH VOLTAGE
I don't use its charger i have external charger of 30ah
4.Monarch Lead acid battery --- UNKNOWN BRAND, NOT SO RELIABLE, LIKELY CULPRIT NUMBER 2 I bought the 2 batteries the same day. The one charged by phcn is still very much ok while the one on solar system is dead in 3months just like the GBM i bought before

Deluxe8000:

1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix
)
2.avg running load 100w and peak load 150w
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter
4.Monarch Lead acid battery
5.Solar wire(kindly look at the pix)
6. distance from my part of the roof to my room.

i think u bought the wrong cm3024z charge controller . go to youtube and watch videos on fake and original CM3024Z charge controller . 80% of cm3024z charge controller at alaba are fake only 20% trusted, i personally went to alaba and discovered this.

mank1234:


From this it appears your setup is a 12v system. Possible scenarios:
1) charge controller may have been set to charge at 24v instead of 12v
2) charge controller if in auto mode, may be wrong in sensing voltage and thus thinks your setup is 24v system
3) you may have repeatedly drawn your battery below 9V.
Diagnostics:
1) Measure the charging voltage from the charge controller in full day light. Anything above 15v is red flag.
2) Put a meter to always display your battery voltage
3) Download and read ebooks on solar renewable energy.

thanks for the reply. That means the Charge controller is the cause.

udy821:
i think u bought the wrong cm3024z charge controller . go to youtube and watch videos on fake and original CM3024Z charge controller . 80% of cm3024z charge controller at alaba are fake only 20% trusted, i personally went to alaba and discovered this.

Thanks for the reply. I thought as much cause the guy that delivered the two batteries also said something similar. What can I do?

Deluxe8000:

Thanks for the reply. I thought as much cause the guy that delivered the two batteries also said something similar. What can I do?

my honest opinion i think u shld try another "type" of charge controller and observe

if you can afford, buy the mppt charge controllers that have been given decent enough reviews on this thread - Fangpusun, Epever etc comes to mind

Deluxe8000:

thanks for the reply. What can i do? i am gradually loosing hope in solar system after inviting 2 engr. from nairaland. The last engr. promised me that it won't happen again after the installation of 580w solar panels(280 poly+300 mono) before i bought two batteries at the same time. The one i connected to the solar system is dead within 3months while the other one that i use with on-grid to charge is still very much ok.

Deluxe8000:

1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix
)
2.avg running load 100w and peak load 150w
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter
4.Monarch Lead acid battery
5.Solar wire(kindly look at the pix)
6. distance from my part of the roof to my room.

Oga, everything about the set up is wrong.. Name the engineers abeg..

1. Controller choice is wrong, most cheapo controllers fails,
How will an engineer tell you 300+ 280watts panels on a PWM controller is fine?

2. 100w to 150w, where is the meter showing this information or it's a guess work?

3. That inverter, may not have the 3 stage charging profile..

4. Why don't you provide the battery capacity

5. Wire may be okay

6. Distance may be okay too..

Does you inverter shut down by low battery voltage from time to time, how often?

If money is not an issue you can, get a better controller, Inverter as well as new batteries..

funken:
if you can afford, buy the mppt charge controllers that have been given decent enough reviews on this thread - Fangpusun, Epever etc comes to mind

In addition, batteries need to be babysitted. You need to pay good attention to your batteries. What depth of discharge do you normally see? How often does it get a full charge? What is the cut-off voltage of your inverter? What charging current do you see during the day when there is sun? Etc, Etc. Solar or even ordinary inverter backup is not a "set and forget" thing. Even where things are properly and adequately set up, there is still a need to look in occasionally and be sure that things are going great. Anyone with a serious system should invest in some automatic monitoring system that can alert you to impending trouble.

adrusa:


In addition, batteries need to be babysitted. You need to pay good attention to your batteries. What depth of discharge do you normally see? How often does it get a full charge? What is the cut-off voltage of your inverter? What charging current do you see during the day when there is sun? Etc, Etc. Solar or even ordinary inverter backup is not a "set and forget" thing. Even where things are properly and adequately set up, there is still a need to look in occasionally and be sure that things are going great. Anyone with a serious system should invest in some automatic monitoring system that can alert you to impending trouble.

unfortunately i don't have the luxury of babysitting battery. i run off- grid system and on-grid system. The on- grid is working perfectly without babysitting. why should i babysit off-grid solar set up?

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2.6KVA/36V N105,000
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10KVA/180V N790,000


PRAG INVERTER
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VOLTRON SERIES
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12KVA WALL MOUNT RELAY REGULATOR #120,000
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15KVA WALL MOUNT SERVO REGULATOR #240,000
20KVA RELAY REGULATOR #195,000
20KVA SERVO REGULATOR #370,000
30KVA SERVO REGULATOR #470,000


BATTERY

LUMINIOUS BATTERY 12V/200AH N 125,000
LONG BATTERY 12V/200AH N 120,000
MONBAT BATTERY 12V/200AH N 125,000
ELSON BATTERY 12V/200AH N 115,000
MICROTEC BATTERY 12V/200AH N 105,000
M POWER BATTERY 12V/200AH N 115,000
EASTMAN 12V/200AH TALL TUBULAR BATTERY N115,000
GLT BATTERY 12V/200AH N 90,000
ZEEDIX BATTERY 12V/200AH N 95,000
RITAR BATTERY 12V/200AH N 130,000
PRAG BATTERY 12V/200AH N 140,000
GENUS BATTERY 12V/200AH N125,000
RITAR 200A BATTERY .......................N 115,000
MOTOMA 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000
CINEMAX 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000
QUANTA BATTERY 12V/200AH N 140,000
ALIGRAND 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000
NPP 200A BATTERY ................N 120,000


BATTERY RACK
BATTERY RACK 2 BATTERY N 15,000
BATTERY RACK 4 BATTERIES N 30,000
BATTERY RACK 8 BATTERIES N 50,000


CHARGE CONTROLLER

ROY SOLAR SERIES
20A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 20,000
30A 12/24V PWM CONTROLLER N 25,000
40A 48v PWM controller (LED) N 50,000
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60A 48v PWM controller (LCD) N 95,000


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30A 24V N40,000
60A 48v N140,000
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SOLAR PANELS

JOY SOLAR PANEL
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200w POLY -N31,000
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TRINA SOLAR PANEL

300w MONO -N85,000
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BATTERY BALANCER /EQUALIZER 48V -------------35,000
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Dam5reey:


Oga, everything about the set up is wrong.. Name the engineers abeg..

1. Controller choice is wrong, most cheapo controllers fails,
How will an engineer tell you 300+ 280watts panels on a PWM controller is fine?

2. 100w to 150w, where is the meter showing this information or it's a guess work?

3. That inverter, may not have the 3 stage charging profile..

4. Why don't you provide the battery capacity

5. Wire may be okay

6. Distance may be okay too..

Does you inverter shut down by low battery voltage from time to time, how often?

If money is not an issue you can, get a better controller, Inverter as well as new batteries..

1. what 12v charge controller will you suggest?
2. 30 inch led tv, energy saving bulb of 26w and a rechargeable standing fan.
3. i do not use the charging system of the inverter.
4. i am comparing two batteries bought on the same day. one is dead while one is working perfectly.

i don't need the inverter to shut down. the alarm is enough to personally shut it down my self.
Money is an issue after buying 3 new batteries within 1year and 2months without meaningful solution.
MAY BE SOLAR SYSTEM IS NOT MEANT FOR 12V SET UP.

funken:
if you can afford, buy the mppt charge controllers that have been given decent enough reviews on this thread - Fangpusun, Epever etc comes to mind

Are they ideal for 12v set-up?

mank1234:


From this it appears your setup is a 12v system. Possible scenarios:
1) charge controller may have been set to charge at 24v instead of 12v
2) charge controller if in auto mode, may be wrong in sensing voltage and thus thinks your setup is 24v system
3) you may have repeatedly drawn your battery below 9V.
Diagnostics:
1) Measure the charging voltage from the charge controller in full day light. Anything above 15v is red flag.
2) Put a meter to always display your battery voltage
3) Download and read ebooks on solar renewable energy.

Thanks for your response.
it read 18v. pls what 12v charge controller will you suggest? i have bought 2 charge contoller already

lexi28:


hi,
basically you actually need to know the overall head of water your pump is required to pull and pump water to. this means depth of borehole, lateral gradient, and height of overhead tank.

popular brands are the Lorentz, and grundfos, and the other Indian and Chinese brands
the Lorentz comes with its own controller (with inbuilt MPPT), the grundfos comes with 2 variants, the CU101 (ordinary on/off switch) & the CU200 that has added features for float switch and generator connections. these controllers usually come as one package, but most retailers sell them separately, so be careful.

when ordering the generic brands, it is best to ask for the data sheets to determine whether it suits your water supply requirements. some people self the controller from 650k and sell the CU200 for 250k. try Google and jiji, before venturing to go to Alaba. I will search for the contact of Auxwell, I think, the last reps of grundfos I know.
some guy in Alaba offered me a pump with 100m head for 130k. it all depends. if you have the funds, go for grundfos or lorentz, (which is more expensive)

I will assume the borehole or water source is ready.if a borehole with standard diameter (6", you will need the pump, 4core flex (some use 2.5mm, but 4mm is better), strain relief PVC cable, tiger pipes (1,1/4"- 1,1/5" based on outlet of pump) or ordinary PVC pipe of same size. if using tiger pipes, they have screw threads, ordinary pipes need to be glued with connectors using PVC gum. then you will need cable ties to hold the electrical cable and strain relief cable to the pipe of your choice.

you will need some kind of rack or pole mount to place your panels, depending on location/size of storage tanks. most steel tanks of large capacity have the solar panels mounted on racks welded atop the tank. if you have space, place panels on pole mounted rack away from trees or tall buildings. you connect wires from panels to controller, and connect wires from pump to controller. the controller is usually placed in a waterproof enclosure under the panel rack, but you could place in anywhere else.

your panels are usually wired in series to achieve minimum startup voltage. some Chinese brands I have seen use a 2s2p config of 300w panels, and it pumps water okay. for pumps like grundfos just check Voc of panel you want and calculate how many you need in series to achieve operating voltage of the pump. same goes for Lorentz.

cheers

This is some premium Intel. Thank you for your service.

Deluxe8000:

unfortunately i don't have the luxury of babysitting battery. i run off- grid system and on-grid system. The on- grid is working perfectly without babysitting. why should i babysit off-grid solar set up?

Going by what I have been reading on this thread, I think babysitting batteries is a matter of necessity and not luxury.

earthrealm:




1.20A 12v/24v auto charge controller(kindly look at the pix ---LIKELY CULPRIT NUMBER 1, I SUSPECT YOUR CC, WHATS THE MAX HARVEST, YOU HV EVER SEEN?, IS THE BATT CHARGING VOLTAGE SETPOINTS ADJUSTABLE...HOPE THEY ARE SET CORRECTLY, TOO HIGH A CHARGING VOLTAGE WILL FRY YOUR BATTERY, 2NDLY, CHK THAT UR CC DOESNT HV EQUALIZATION SETTING TURNED ON , DOES YOUR BATTERY/INVERTER RUN DOWN FREQUENTLY AND BEEPS??
)
2.avg running load 100w and peak load 150w ---- FAIR, CANNOT KILL BATTERY
3. Famicare 800va 12v inverter --- USUALLY OK, THOUGH OUTPUT CHARGING VOLTAGE NEEDS TO BE CHECKED, TO BE SURE IT HASNT DEVELOPED A FAULT AND OUTPUTTING HIGH VOLTAGE
4.Monarch Lead acid battery --- UNKNOWN BRAND, NOT SO RELIABLE, LIKELY CULPRIT NUMBER 2
5.Solar wire(kindly look at the pix) ----- LOOKS LIKE 100MM/16MM AC CABLE, NOT THE BEST FOR DC OPS, BUT SHUD BE OK
6. distance from my part of the roof to my room. DOESNT LOOK FAR, SHUD BE OK, IF YOUR CABLE IS 10MM AND DISTANCE IS LESS THAN 30FT, YOU CAN USE THE CABLE CHARTS TO CONFIRM THIS, AM LAZY ASF NOW

Could you also go through my setup, pls.

4*150watts stand alone 12v panels in parallel; 60a pwm cc from aliexpress; distance of panel to cc(lateral+horizontal)78 ft; battery to cc(less than 3ft). Wires used are join-join ac pumping wire scrimped from somewhere. Inverter is luminuos 900vac ecovolt 12v inverter. Battery was 100ah luminous i've used for almost 4 years with public grid/gen b4 switching to solar/public grid/gen. Used it for few weeks until recently when it will work until sundown and battery then lasts 1.5hrs after sundown. I've been too wire is culprit and wire was changed today. So by tomorrow I will update. I changed wires to 10awg dual core wire. And cc to battery wire now 6awg (lenght,6+ft). Need I say that everything is DIY from info gathered from quora, nairaland, researches and YouTube videos.


I gather I need fuse/dc breaker between panel and cc, and bewween cc and battery. Will standard 240v 5a ac fuse suffice? And what parameters am I to set on the cc?. I read there are monitors selling to check battery discharge level etc. What name and brand as well as seller and if possible idea of price. And money is an issue o. My salary is less than 100k/month, so don't give me the one wey I go first join cooperative collect loan b4 I go buy o(lol). Thanks.

Deluxe8000:

Thanks for your response.
it read 18v. pls what 12v charge controller will you suggest? i have bought 2 charge contoller already

For cheap one
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bUGZEwXI

Premium brand
Go for morningstar Tristar 30A MPPT controller or MIDNITE solar classic or victron or xantrex

Modified: if I were u I'll think long term. Get a premium brand, two or four fairly used battery setup as 24V. Add panels of same sepc as u get more funds.

Any how wiring!!! U didn't fix the wires in the right positions. Beside that your cc reading 18v for a 12v system means you have been boiling the cells of your battery everyday.. This is enough to kill any battery within one month

Deluxe8000:

1. what 12v charge controller will you suggest?
2. 30 inch led tv, energy saving bulb of 26w and a rechargeable standing fan.
3. i do not use the charging system of the inverter.
4. i am comparing two batteries bought on the same day. one is dead while one is working perfectly.

i don't need the inverter to shut down. the alarm is enough to personally shut it down my self.
Money is an issue after buying 3 new batteries within 1year and 2months without meaningful solution.
MAY BE SOLAR SYSTEM IS NOT MEANT FOR 12V SET UP.

If you always get battery low beep, it sum up all your issue, batteries are not adequately charged..
Battery beep mean you are @ 11V below.

You are using controller capped at 20A, leaving you at 240w usage, out of 580Watts.

I will recommend any of cheaper 50A MPPT controllers, fangpusun, epever, maykesyeblue, etc..

Ensure your battery voltage stay above 12.2V..

harizonal123:
Any how wiring!!! U didn't fix the wires in the right positions. Beside that your cc reading 18v for a 12v system means you have been boiling the cells of your battery everyday.. This is enough to kill any battery within one month

Could it be that it's picture angle that shows as if the wiring is wrong. The "engineers" he called should have discovered such error if it is indeed as shown.

@delux8000.
Confirm that wires from panel goes to 1st two holes(counting from left if facing controller), 2nd two holes is cc to battery and last two holes is for 5amps devices. And I'm believing you know the two wires are +ve first and -ve next. It is labelled on the cc point where you fix the wires. See attached picture.

Dam5reey:


If you always get battery low beep, it sum up all your issue, batteries are not adequately charged..
Battery beep mean you are @ 11V below.

You are using controller capped at 20A, leaving you at 240w usage, out of 580Watts.

I will recommend any of cheaper 50A MPPT controllers, fangpusun, epever, maykesyeblue, etc..

Ensure your battery voltage stay above 12.2V..

26watts energy saving bulb! I thought I was saving energy with my 15watts until I discovered 8watts and then 5watts. All my bulbs are now 5watts and I'm still looking for 3watts for my toilet and bath. Sir pls change your bulbs to 5watts(500naira) for rooms and 8 watts(500naira) for living room. With your 26watts single bulb I have provided light to five rooms at five watts each. And mind you, we would still beat you at energy saving because we won't put on the five bulbs at once unlike you. When we procured prepaid metre, we mastered the art of "go in=on light, go out=off light" so no unnecessary leaving light on and wasting energy. When we are in the living room and TV is on, then its illumination is OK and no need to put on bulb again. Setting up solar or any alternative energy without learning energy conservation to me is a waste. My little contribution.

mank1234:

For cheap one
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bUGZEwXI

Premium brand
Go for morningstar Tristar 30A MPPT controller or MIDNITE solar classic or victron or xantrex

Modified: if I were u I'll think long term. Get a premium brand, two or four fairly used battery setup as 24V. Add panels of same sepc as u get more funds.

Let me also check my readings too.

Dam5reey:


If you always get battery low beep, it sum up all your issue, batteries are not adequately charged..
Battery beep mean you are @ 11V below.

You are using controller capped at 20A, leaving you at 240w usage, out of 580Watts.

I will recommend any of cheaper 50A MPPT controllers, fangpusun, epever, maykesyeblue, etc..

Ensure your battery voltage stay above 12.2V..

Thanks i appreciate your contribution.