dejidotun2000:
please share the model number and nameplate of this freezer

Start up power draw is usually 167watt to 170watts. It then starts dropping and in less than 4 minutes, it drops to around 110 watts in most cases.

There is a second one (exactly the same product and model) with someone else that OCCASIONALLY starts up at 1,500 watts (yes 1.5kw) but immediately drops to 115 watts working power. Most times it starts up at the expected low180 watts. But I don't understand that occasional 1.5kw that makes it different from my own. A factory error I suppose.

harizonal123:
I just placed my order this morning.

Nice.

Please do keep in mind to give your user experiences on this thread.

lexi28:


that's always the basic & best idea. the grundfos sqflex 2.5 does that pretty well. it takes ac/DC voltages up to 300v ac/DC. works with any kind of panels as long as minimum volt of 120v is achieved.

idea is to pump water while the sun shines and store in tanks, steel or plastic for use later or immediately. its always cheaper to store water than to add batteries to enable pumping at odd hours of the day.

cheers

Is this pump submersible or surface? What is the "lift" like (in meters)?

Any purchase link or url?

olaolu11:




I have been informed that my cable is ready for collection. Though I had to settle for 6mm because the 10mm is no longer available. Will give feedback by tomorrow when I do the connection. The man says it is white copper(hmnn)

White copper ke?! I have not heard copper being white unless if electroplated with white metal o, in which case the wire inside is still copper and retains the Cu colour. Copper has its peculiar colour and taste (when you suffer from metronidazole overdose, you get the sensation of copper taste on your tongue).

The gurus in the house can give more insights.

Deluxe8000:

Thanks for your response.
it read 18v. pls what 12v charge controller will you suggest? i have bought 2 charge contoller already

Your "energy saving" bulb is no longer the in vogue energy saving light bulb. I guess it's CFL bulb and it's what they call "your time don pass".

So please get a 8 watt LED bulb (that is equivalent to a 36 watts CFL) and save the remaining 18 watts for increased back up time.

Also your 32" LED TV traditionally will gulp something in the range of 70 watts at full blast. Does it have "energy saving mode" feature? If yes, activate it and see your 32" 70 watts appliance run at 30 watts. You get to save 40 watts. Add that to the 18 watts saved with the use of LED bulbs and you have 58 watts gold.

That's just appliance sizing alone. It's not what may be primarily responsible for the early death of the solar set up. Other experienced readers will give expert opinions on that.

lexi28:


thanks, I know. having issues uploading pix of battery as tested with battery meter. once it uploads it will appear on the post.

gracias

I think a "discharge test" will be more persuasive than the "voltage test" which is what your battery meter will do. Don't you think so too?

lexi28:


I got a toks 24" BUSH LED TV for 26k about a year back from Alaba. it consumes 20w only. I took along my wattmeter (that's standard practice now). sellers thought I was weird.

you could do the same when going to buy your next gadget.

. They'd indeed think you are weird. Don't mind them. I have a spare wattmeter in the car in case I need to stop by and window shop in transit.

These vendors should cultivate the habit of listing the power consumption and pushing it as part of their selling points to their customers. A lot of them don't even know what a wattmeter is.

Nonsense. Just selling energy hogging appliances and just giving somebody unnecessary headache.

durumibaka:


Thanks bros for that answer, but am corrently using 300w/24v×3 solar panel, what will be the effect since am using 20a 12v/24v solar charge controller. Thanks.

It's either you reconfigure your panels into 1s3p and make your batteries 24v system (12volt x 2 connected in series) if you are to use a PWM SCC and at least a 40amp PWM SCC.

OR

You just get an MPPT with a voc of around 100v to 150v, do your series configuration as 3s1p and hook it up to any battery configuration between 12v system or 24v system.

Promo valid until August 20th 2019. Promo code is nairaland
Flexmax Fangpusun 80a 135k
Flexmax Fangpusun 60a 110k
080-987-337-09

dragnet:
iConcur.

Bro, kindly Unban me.

Anti spam bot used me to flex some muscles yesterday. I don't know why

ceaser:


This is impressive if it is really the fact. I can even sell the 6 months old Haier Thermocool for cheap and add some money to get this.

But are you sure your 70 watts is not the recorded consumption on a 24 volt power inverter system in which case the wattage consumption recorded is always half of the actual AC rating of the appliance.

Please the name plate on the appliance will be more persuasive. I am itching to dump what I have for this power saving feat of a deep freezer.

By the way, below is the name plate of the Haier thermocool. Start up power draw is usually 167watt to 170watts. It then starts dropping and in less than 4 minutes, it drops to around 110 watts in most cases.

Just seeing this. Will do that when I get home. Yea it's really 70watts. Initial start up is around 500w then settles @ 72 watts then 67 when the danger light is off i use a watt meter and also calculated using my bmv 700

ceaser:


This is impressive if it is really the fact. I can even sell the 6 months old Haier Thermocool for cheap and add some money to get this.

But are you sure your 70 watts is not the recorded consumption on a 24 volt power inverter system in which case the wattage consumption recorded is always half of the actual AC rating of the appliance.


Please the name plate on the appliance will be more persuasive. I am itching to dump what I have for this power saving feat of a deep freezer.

By the way, below is the name plate of the Haier thermocool. Start up power draw is usually 167watt to 170watts. It then starts dropping and in less than 4 minutes, it drops to around 110 watts in most cases.

Please explain the bold paragraph.

ceaser:


White copper ke?! I have not heard copper being white unless if electroplated with white metal o, in which case the wire inside is still copper and retains the Cu colour. Copper has its peculiar colour and taste (when you suffer from metronidazole overdose, you get the sensation of copper taste on your tongue).

The gurus in the house can give more insights.

Yes there's "white" copper, if you scratch or cut through it, you'll notice the normal copper internally but the surface is actually silver-like. But one should be careful not to buy aluminium wires marketed as white copper or even aluminium wires coated with copper brown color as copper. One needs some intelligence in those markets especially alaba.

dragnet:

Please explain the bold paragraph.

Lol I was confused too

mank1234:


My old battery I bought new behaved in similar fashion. No matter how it's charged once charging source is removed, it race down to 12.4V (24.8V for series). Apparently, it was old battery rebranded and sold as new. At C20, I get only 120AH from a 200AH battery before inverter shutdown at 21V cutoff.

Two fairly used ones I got from kiekie1 is far better. It charges and maintains 13.2V (26.4V) when full and charging source is removed.

I think mine may also be having similar issue, when it's connected to charger and fully charged, it reads 27v but if charge source is lost, it goes down to about 25.6v

Namzy:

Just seeing this. Will do that when I get home. Yea it's really 70watts. Initial start up is around 500w then settles @ 72 watts then 67 when the danger light is off i use a watt meter and also calculated using my bmv 700

Kk just got home. The rated watts is 120w but I have never seen it hit that. The alarm light [ I call it danger light] is on meaning the refrigerator has not hit its optimum temp for preserving foods. In the light is off its between 67 to 72 watts. Now it's about 76 watts from watt meter

Trippledots:


BOLDED IS NOT ADVISABLE

Please I need advise on how to go about setting up a solar system with panels, inverter, battery and all for not more than 70k

It's just for a laptop and a phone. Thanks.

Please if you know where I can get new or fairly used products to fit my budget it would be of great help.

generationz:



Please I need advise on how to go about setting up a solar system with panels, inverter, battery and all for not more than 70k

It's just for a laptop and a phone. Thanks.

Please if you know where I can get new or fairly used products to fit my budget it would be of great help.

That will just buy you a high capacity powerbank with ports for laptop and usb, not enough to set up a solar system.

ceaser:


This is impressive if it is really the fact. I can even sell the 6 months old Haier Thermocool for cheap and add some money to get this.

But are you sure your 70 watts is not the recorded consumption on a 24 volt power inverter system in which case the wattage consumption recorded is always half of the actual AC rating of the appliance.

Please the name plate on the appliance will be more persuasive. I am itching to dump what I have for this power saving feat of a deep freezer.

By the way, below is the name plate of the Haier thermocool. Start up power draw is usually 167watt to 170watts. It then starts dropping and in less than 4 minutes, it drops to around 110 watts in most cases.

With the alarm light off am pulling 66w

adrusa:


That will just buy you a high capacity powerbank with ports for laptop and usb, not enough to set up a solar system.

It actually can.

I had actually gotten price estimations to set up one with a 150watts solar panel, a lifepo4 battery etc
Costs less than 70k


I just want other options especially with lead or mercury battery.


Also if you have a link to the powerbank please share. I just want ro compare every thing and see which is the best for me.
Thanks.

generationz:

It actually can.

I had actually gotten price estimations to set up one with a 150watts solar panel, a lifepo4 battery etc
Costs less than 70k


I just want other options especially with lead or mercury battery.


Also if you have a link to the powerbank please share. I just want ro compare every thing and see which is the best for me.
Thanks.

That's a "good" offer, after installation and all, kindly report back here. I would so much love to see that kind of setup. We learn every day.

I have a question but can't say if it is dumb or not but i need help please, because I'm still a novice in this field

Please if you're having a 12 volt battery with 600 watts solar setup and a 60A mppt charge controller, is it the whole 60A from the CC that is going to go directly into the battery or is there any other thing i should be aware of? I don't get it

ceaser:


White copper ke?! I have not heard copper being white unless if electroplated with white metal o, in which case the wire inside is still copper and retains the Cu colour. Copper has its peculiar colour and taste (when you suffer from metronidazole overdose, you get the sensation of copper taste on your tongue).

The gurus in the house can give more insights.

lollzz... the "white" copper is actually Tinned Copper (attached pic)

pure copper, overtime, is suceptible to corrosion, especially around wet environments. Hence they are usually coated with Tin, which is less affected. The Tin helps extend the life of the cable

when you scratch a tinned copper cable, you'll see the pure copper color. some panels like Canadian and flames comes with tinned copper cable.

however, note that aluminum cables also has that tin-like color. But what those Alaba bad eggs do is that they will even use copper color to coat an aluminum cable. Some fake Alaba panels comes with Aluminum cable coated with copper color.

Generally, I discovered that aluminum flex cable breaks easily. Using ordinary hand to try and twist the cable (like, try to join it with a copper cable), it'll just be breaking like what I dont know....imagine when you try to use plier....hmmmmm.
and when you scratch a copper-coated aluminum cable, you'll see the real aluminum color

Cheers

generationz:

It actually can.

I had actually gotten price estimations to set up one with a 150watts solar panel, a lifepo4 battery etc
Costs less than 70k


I just want other options especially with lead or mercury battery.


Also if you have a link to the powerbank please share. I just want ro compare every thing and see which is the best for me.
Thanks.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33013482194.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.71073009VYp6H1&algo_pvid=8fe71930-62a1-4422-8244-17a29fdf91e2&algo_expid=8fe71930-62a1-4422-8244-17a29fdf91e2-6&btsid=cfbea75e-cfa2-40e5-991f-12917d293bdd&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53

Namzy:

Just seeing this. Will do that when I get home. Yea it's really 70watts. Initial start up is around 500w then settles @ 72 watts then 67 when the danger light is off i use a watt meter and also calculated using my bmv 700

Waoh. And I though I was the luckiest with 114 watts consumption. But did you say the hisense is 100 litres capacity? Cos the Thermocool I posted is 203 litres capacity. I would have loved to do a capacity-for-capacity comparison.

dragnet:

Please explain the bold paragraph.

I had noticed that the watt consumption of appliances plugged into inverters usually changes as the battery voltage decreases with use. A 32" tv showing 42 watts when the battery is 13.2 volts eventually goes to around 48 watts when the battery voltage reaches around 12.1 volts. Of course I know that current-voltage inverse relationship, but I just didn't put much thought to it initially.

Then came the time to make a standalone solar set up for a sliding gate opener. I insisted on a DC powered variant but the Nigerian merchant convinced me of the better reliability and long lasting AC motor over DC motor, including the fact that the AC motor is easier to come by in case it needs replacement. I suspected sale gimmicks though but I had little choices since there is no local seller with DC variant on offer.

I tested the consumption on 230VAC national grid and it came to 180 watts working, 2 watts standby. To be sure it can be run by solar, I tested it on a 12volt 100amp battery solar set up and it gave the same watt consumption.

I then decided to make it's modular supply a 24 volt system.
* 50 watts panel x 2 connected in series
* 12v/24v 10amp PWM SCC
* 7ah SMF (ups battery) x 2 connected in series. The batteries can do 4 cycles of opening and closing before the inverter beeps low voltage.
* 350 watts 24volt PSW inverter.

When I tested the appliance in the set up with the wattmeter plugged in, it showed 100 watts consumption, a variance with the 180 watts it shows on 12volt system.

So basically while it still inherently consumes a standard stated power, although fictitiously altered/reduced by the increased voltage, it gives a somewhat misleading readout on the wattmeter. Reason I asked if your freezer is hooked onto a 12v or 24v system or standard grid AC when you tested the consumption.

dragnet:

Yes there's "white" copper, if you scratch or cut through it, you'll notice the normal copper internally but the surface is actually silver-like. But one should be careful not to buy aluminium wires marketed as white copper or even aluminium wires coated with copper brown color as copper. One needs some intelligence in those markets especially alaba.

Toh. That's copper wire electroplated with Aluminium then.
Thanks.

ojeysky:


I think mine may also be having similar issue, when it's connected to charger and fully charged, it reads 27v but if charge source is lost, it goes down to about 25.6v

There appears to be nothing wrong with your battery. Nominal 12v battery reads around 12.7 volt on standby. Your 24v system reads 25.6 when charging source is removed divided by 2 gives 12.8v). You won't expect the battery to still retain the voltage shown while it's charging when the charging source is removed. You naturally expect the charger to have a higher voltage, which is the voltage that is shown while charging is taking place, than the nominal of the battery to enable a potential difference that pushes the current into the battery.

Namzy:

Kk just got home. The rated watts is 120w but I have never seen it hit that. The alarm light [ I call it danger light] is on meaning the refrigerator has not hit its optimum temp for preserving foods. In the light is off its between 67 to 72 watts. Now it's about 76 watts from watt meter

Hmmm. Your system is a 24volt system, isn't it?

mcTrinity:


lollzz... the "white" copper is actually Tinned Copper (attached pic) But what those Alaba bad eggs do is that they will even use copper color to coat an aluminum cable. Some fake Alaba panels comes with Aluminum cable coated with copper color.

Generally, I discovered that aluminum flex cable breaks easily. Using ordinary hand to try and twist the cable (like, try to join it with a copper cable), it'll just be breaking like what I dont know....imagine when you try to use plier....hmmmmm.
and when you scratch a copper-coated aluminum cable, you'll see the real aluminum color

Cheers

Chai! @ bolded. Serious one chance.
Thanks.

hardywaltz:
Thank you all for your response
We will be having a meeting with the installer in the days to come but in the office we settled with the following specs. (Basics)

96 nr 340w solar in 4S6P x 6 strings
6 nr Midnite Combiner box
6nr 250/100 Victron Smartsolar Charge Controller
3nr 48/15000/200-100/100 Victron inverter paralleled to give 3 phase.
9nr 48/13.8kw Lithium batteries complete with bms connected in parallel to give 124.2kw
Busbars, fuses, etc

i have read all suggestions and they are making sense in all aspect

if i should lend my voice, as someone said, you could invite more installers to present a quote and let them come and present their bid and defend it , with your knowledge, you can choose the best.

That said, i thin you should look at a more sophisticated and stable system ,

Growatt has some inverters that can serve the purpose you seek (Growatt HPS 50) should do the job, they also can sell you Lithium batteries and match the BMS to work effectively with their inverter . its more like a coplete package and when they system gets here you install your solar panels , run them through the inverters and you are fine.


I have a hotel project that is oncoming but relatively bigger than your office project


also note, the higher the voltage , the more stable a system is , so i would go with a higher voltage than a 48v system unless you do not have a choice , you need to really manage your cabling well because higher current translates to having realy large cables to tranport them around.

based on what i wrote above, here are my suggestions

1. consider inverters from other manufacturers like growatt, Solax, Kostal , goodwe (they have 3 phase storage inverters thats globally accepted and efficiency is top notch)
2. be careful with Lithium ion batteries and how you incorporate BMS to a system with BMS already.
3. check Meritsun Battery company, they have some 48v100AH that can do parallel to get your desired storage sze.
4. Think about Lead carbon from Narada or sacred sun battery if you are not using lithium.

hope this helps