generationz:


Please where did you get the lifepo4 batteries?


Also, did you remodify the stabilizer or just used it like that?

1. The Battery is a used one.
2. That is not stabilizer but a stabilizer casing to house my Homemade inverter.

generationz:


Please, how much did you get your batteries?

Bought them at a ridiculous price (N5K each). They were used for a project, after the project the IT guy presented a proposal for maintenance until they will be needed again, but management thought it wasn't necessary. So the IT guy decided to dispose of the batteries. I came to the party very late and got the four. The used one was to complete as the unused ones had already finished. If I knew the value would have pressed further and could have gotten used ones at 3K max. Now none available.

I bought them to use with my laptop, but unfortunately the power port was bigger and didn't fit my laptop. The LiFePo4s were forgotten after I did some research online, read of issues with charging etc, and care.

I only picked interest in making use of it again after seeing Dishtech's responded to your post, with the pictures. Where I live public power supply (days without power) is very poor so charging with that is ruled out. Imaging we are using 3K credit on prepaid meter for 2months (2 1-bedroom flats, 3 shops and even the water pump is connected to our meter) there is no bypass connections. Hope restored with solar charging.

Dishtech:

1. The Battery is a used one.
2. That is not stabilizer but a stabilizer casing to house my Homemade inverter.

What will you advice on this.

https://www./suoer-3000-watts-solar-inverter-3000kva-31405507.html

mctfopt:


I'll try to answer this as briefly as possible.

1: The circuit breaker size is dependent on what you are protecting. Eg use 125 percent of the continuous load (maximum current expected to last for three hours or more). For instance, if your maximum load current drawn is 10a, 125% of it is 12.5A, then in that application, you can use a 16A breaker.

2. Your surge rating is usually rated in kilo amps (kA). Because most SPDs on the market use a metal-oxide varistor (MOV), if a 10kA SPD experiences a 10kA surge, it means it'll use 100% of its capacity and will usually display red on the display window which means it is due for replacement. In the market, the higher the kA value of SPD, the higher the cost. So you can just go with either a 20kA capacity or 40kA. Ensure you have a good earth before installing an SPD.

3. You can still add a fuse if you can afford one. The more the protective device, the better your system. Just ensure it is rated accordingly so you don't overfuse (in which case the fuse won't melt on fault current) or under size(in which case the fuse constantly melts even when carrying the normal current).

4. It is not compulsory to use a battery balancer, but good ones which is adequately installed have proven to elongate battery lifespan. If you want to put one, ensure you do at the start of the installation and the battery is of the same make and age.

5. In theory, you can connect an infinite number of batteries in parallel. In practical, the more the number of batteries connected in parallel, the bigger the cross section of cables used to handle the higher amperage involved. So you can safely have more than three parallel as long as you obey the rule of the paralleling batteries and ensure the right size of cable is in use.

If you are in doubt, always check in with professionals around your area as it is never good to dabble in things of this nature which may be dangerous if not properly done.

Experts in the house are free to weigh in. I'm not an expert

nice, I tried to cut out part of your comment to save space, nah, it didn't work. its all on point. starred.

lexi28:


nice, I tried to cut out part of your comment to save space, nah, it didn't work. its all on point. starred.

Thank you

Neat one!

mcTrinity:


hi Ola,

you're looking at something like this... the two separate battery banks can be independently charged with inverter or solar...

please, ensure you use a quality Change over switch. I used 100A A&Bt brand ... or you look for MG brand. confirm the thickness of the current-carrying part...

Hope this helps

cheers

Good day house, I am building a solar dryer as my final year project but I have the following issues
(a) I don't have an idea of the size of panel and battery that can feed the dc fan
(b) the cost of the panel, solar charge controller, dc battery and dc fan
(c) I will appreciate if I can get somebody in Lagos that can supply the components to me as I live in the northern part of the country
Attached is a sketch of the dryer thanks

microgiant:


Bought them at a ridiculous price (N5K each). They were used for a project, after the project the IT guy presented a proposal for maintenance until they will be needed again, but management thought it wasn't necessary. So the IT guy decided to dispose of the batteries. I came to the party very late and got the four. The used one was to complete as the unused ones had already finished. If I knew the value would have pressed further and could have gotten used ones at 3K max. Now none available.

I bought them to use with my laptop, but unfortunately the power port was bigger and didn't fit my laptop. The LiFePo4s were forgotten after I did some research online, read of issues with charging etc, and care.

I only picked interest in making use of it again after seeing Dishtech's responded to your post, with the pictures. Where I live public power supply (days without power) is very poor so charging with that is ruled out. Imaging we are using 3K credit on prepaid meter for 2months (2 1-bedroom flats, 3 shops and even the water pump are connected to our meter) there is no bypass connections. Hope restored with solar charging.

You are lucky

Dishtech:

1. The Battery is a used one.
2. That is not stabilizer but a stabilizer casing to house my Homemade inverter.

I see.

Dishtech:

1. The Battery is a used one.
2. That is not stabilizer but a stabilizer casing to house my Homemade inverter.

Which do you think is better

A 48ah lifepo4 battery or a 100ah deep cycle battery?

aorseer:
Good day house, I am building a solar dryer as my final year project but I have the following issues
(a) I don't have an idea of the size of panel and battery that can feed the dc fan
(b) the cost of the panel, solar charge controller, dc battery and dc fan
(c) I will appreciate if I can get somebody in Lagos that can supply the components to me as I live in the northern part of the country
Attached is a sketch of the dryer thanks

hi, FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION:
what is wattage of your DC fan? the answer determines how you will proceed!
cheers.

lexi28:


hi, FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION:
what is wattage of your DC fan? the answer determines how you will proceed!
cheers.

Thanks for your response. The DC fan is a 12v turbo fan. I guess it's 24watts

mctfopt:


I'll try to answer this as briefly as possible.

1: The circuit breaker size is dependent on what you are protecting. Eg use 125 percent of the continuous load (maximum current expected to last for three hours or more). For instance, if your maximum load current drawn is 10a, 125% of it is 12.5A, then in that application, you can use a 16A breaker.

2. Your surge rating is usually rated in kilo amps (kA). Because most SPDs on the market use a metal-oxide varistor (MOV), if a 10kA SPD experiences a 10kA surge, it means it'll use 100% of its capacity and will usually display red on the display window which means it is due for replacement. In the market, the higher the kA value of SPD, the higher the cost. So you can just go with either a 20kA capacity or 40kA. Ensure you have a good earth before installing an SPD.

3. You can still add a fuse if you can afford one. The more the protective device, the better your system. Just ensure it is rated accordingly so you don't overfuse (in which case the fuse won't melt on fault current) or under size(in which case the fuse constantly melts even when carrying the normal current).

4. It is not compulsory to use a battery balancer, but good ones which is adequately installed have proven to elongate battery lifespan. If you want to put one, ensure you do at the start of the installation and the battery is of the same make and age.

5. In theory, you can connect an infinite number of batteries in parallel. In practical, the more the number of batteries connected in parallel, the bigger the cross section of cables used to handle the higher amperage involved. So you can safely have more than three parallel as long as you obey the rule of the paralleling batteries and ensure the right size of cable is in use.

If you are in doubt, always check in with professionals around your area as it is never good to dabble in things of this nature which may be dangerous if not properly done.

Experts in the house are free to weigh in. I'm not an expert

mctfopt
Thanks alot...

For the spd, have seen online that is connected like a breaker but no off and on switch.. does it still need to be Connected to ground.

Easylearner:


mctfopt
Thanks alot...

For the spd, have seen online that is connected like a breaker but no off and on switch.. does it still need to be Connected to ground.

You may really need to get the services of a professional to get this properly done. Anyways, a surge requires a good earth to work. Take a look at this YouTube video to see how it works.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfXoOfipO08

mcTrinity:


Hi BT,

thanks ...and please,feel free

those are DC voltmeters... each battery bank has its own, hence two meters.

There is a PV Array Isolation circuit breaker inside the Plastic breaker box (white in color). it has to be turned off before unloading the CC (during switch over)

cheers

I can't see any surge protector in the photo you uploaded, is it not needed or it's not on all system is been used?

Easylearner:
I can't see any surge protector in the photo you uploaded, is it not needed or it's not on all system is been used?

thank you guys

mctfopt:


You may really need to get the services of a professional to get this properly done. Anyways, a surge requires a good earth to work. Take a look at this YouTube video to see how it works.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfXoOfipO08

thanks alot

microgiant:


What will you advice on this.

https://www./suoer-3000-watts-solar-inverter-3000kva-31405507.html

The link you posted is not available so I don't know what it means

aorseer:

Thanks for your response. The DC fan is a 12v turbo fan. I guess it's 24watts

hi,
are you sure? the volume of air pushed by this 24w fan, is it adequate for the job required as depicted in the diagrams shown?

anyway if that's wattage of the fan, then the rest is easy.

load 24w/12v
load current consumed:24/12=2amps
1nos 24w/12v DC fan
1nos 150w panel
1nos 10a pwm controller
1nos 65ah/12v battery

calculations:
duration of load :12hrs
Ah consumed : 12hrs *24w/12v =24ah
depth of discharge on battery: 24/65*100= 36% (good). 2 days autonomy.

panel current : 150/18v = 8.33 (typical value)
you expect practically 70% of this value = 5.83a

C/10 rate (optimal charge rate) for the battery is :65ah/10h = 6.5a. 5.83a is pretty close to that. due to the fact that you said your location is in the north, you can expect better.

typical costs:
150w panel >= 25k, chinko panels are cheaper. some for as low as 19k.
10a pwm charge controller (generic brand):<= 5-7k
65ah battery: 25-47k. (long brand is the expensive one, Chinese batteries cost less.)
24w DC fan: Alaba is your best bet.

it is a student project, you are required to show working proof of concept. no need to spend over the top for high end gadgets.

cheers

hope this helps. any other questions, post them too. best of luck.

once again I hope vendors here can give you a student discount. lol.

Easylearner:


mctfopt
Thanks alot...

For the spd, have seen online that is connected like a breaker but no off and on switch.. does it still need to be Connected to ground.

first of all. confirm that the earthing in the house or location is OK.
the SPD has 3 terminals, +ve, -ve and ground.
if you have a common connection for the DC side of things, like a bus bar. you connect a wire from the positive side to the Positive terminal of the SPD, then connect a wire from the negative bus bar to the negative terminal of the SPD, then connect a wire from the ground terminal of the SPD to a working earth connection spot.

the bus bar makes this connection easier, but it you do not have one, locating the common points maybe confusing for some.

that's all that is to it. if a surge occurs on the DC side of the system, the SPD "diverts" that and prevents the proverbial white smoke from your controller.

Good afternoon, Please I want to find out how reliable is Riktar battery and the price.

SOLARWORLD PANEL PRICES"Made in Germany" !

SW 345W mono = N75,000.00
SW 340W mono(above 30) = N73,500.00
SW 315W mono = N70,000.00
SW 280W mono glass = N62,000.00
SW 175W Poly (14pcs) = N40,000.00


Trojan 12v 205Ah AGM USA battery = N170,000
Trojan 6v 315Ah AGM USA battery = N154,000

*CYBERPOWER INVERTERS"PURESINEWAVE" PRICES*

▪CPSPIE-2.5KVA/24V PSW Inverter +AC/DC Cables: N150,000.

▪CPSPIE-3.5KVA/24V PSW Inverter +AC/DC Cables: N270,000.

▪CPSPIE-5KVA/48V PSW Inverter + AC/DC Cables:
N430,000

Quanta 200a inverter battery .... N130,000


Contact,
Smartcellglobal services
081-350-319-51
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

AFFORDABLE POWER INVERTER PRICES!

Inverters without inbuilt charger:
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1000w 22k
2000w 26k.

Call,
Smartcellglobal services
081-350-319-51

generationz:


Which do you think is better

A 48ah lifepo4 battery or a 100ah deep cycle battery?

For availablity of power at shorter Life is the deep cycle battery but longer life is the LiFePo4 battery that is,
1. Safe usable energy for the 48ah at 80% Depth of discharge (DOC)= 48ah X 12v =576wh - 20%SOC( i.e 0.2 X 576 =115.2) , therefore 576 - 115.2=460wh.
While
2. Deep cycle battery at 50% DOC= 100ah X 12v X 0.5= 600wh. BUT
a. Lead battery has shorter Life cycle of <500cycle 50%DOC while LiFePo4 battery has longer life cycle of more than 2000cycle at 80%DOC.
b. Traditionally Lead acid battery always want to be charged at each cycle. If there are not fully recharge, there are considered to be in Partial State of Charge which causes the battery to be sulphated Leading to premature death of the battery while LiFePo4 battery survive in partial state of charge.
c. LiFePo4 is lighter in weight than Lead battery.
In conclusion I will prefer if you have two of that 48ah it will give you the energy requirements that the 100ah Deep cycle battery would have given and still last longer than the lead battery.

Dishtech:

For availablity of power at shorter Life is the deep cycle battery but longer life is the LiFePo4 battery that is,
1. Safe usable energy for the 48ah at 80% Depth of discharge (DOC)= 48ah X 12v =576wh - 20%SOC( i.e 0.2 X 576 =115.2) , therefore 576 - 115.2=460wh.
While
2. Deep cycle battery at 50% DOC= 100ah X 12v X 0.5= 600wh. BUT
a. Lead battery has shorter Life cycle of <500cycle 50%DOC while LiFePo4 battery has longer life cycle of more than 2000cycle at 80%DOC.
b. Traditionally Lead acid battery always want to be charged at each cycle. If there are not fully recharge, there are considered to be in Partial State of Charge which causes the battery to be sulphated Leading to premature death of the battery while LiFePo4 battery survive in partial state of charge.
c. LiFePo4 is lighter in weight than Lead battery.
In conclusion I will prefer if you have two of that 48ah it will give you the energy requirements that the 100ah Deep cycle battery would have given and still last longer than the lead battery.

But thee problem is lifepo4 batteries are scarce in Nigeria and one can only afford the used one's for now.


Olease if you know where I can get them I'll be grateful

eleojo23:
Please can someone recommend good external chargers for deep cycle batteries?

Lcd display 30a intelligent charger available .... 20,000 , Analogue ... 18,000

Contact,
Smartcellglobal
081-350-319-51

Dishtech:

The link you posted is not available so I don't know what it means

It is a Chinese inverter, I think nairaland just deleted the j u m i a website

httpx://www j u m i a dot com dot ng/suoer-3000w-3kva-inverter-with-multiple-protection-18818593.html

SUOER 3000w 3KVA Inverter With Multiple Protection DC 5V USB output
3000W DC 12V to AC 230V
Low standby power cost
Multiple safe protection
High coversion effeciency(>70%)
Universal output socket
Intelligent cooling fan controlled by the workload
This power inverter is extraordinarily designed for home use,which can convert DC 12V/24V of portable power supply to AC 110V/220V/230V and it works for almost all the household electrical resistive appliances

lexi28:


first of all. confirm that the earthing in the house or location is OK.
the SPD has 3 terminals, +ve, -ve and ground.
if you have a common connection for the DC side of things, like a bus bar. you connect a wire from the positive side to the Positive terminal of the SPD, then connect a wire from the negative bus bar to the negative terminal of the SPD, then connect a wire from the ground terminal of the SPD to a working earth connection spot.

the bus bar makes this connection easier, but it you do not have one, locating the common points maybe confusing for some.

that's all that is to it. if a surge occurs on the DC side of the system, the SPD "diverts" that and prevents the proverbial white smoke from your controller.

I do not have a bus bar but what I have done in my case was to shove both the PV and SPD cables in the DC breaker input, I don't know if the SPD will still do it's work with such setup.

lexi28:


hi, congrats you have come this far.

1. your inverter and batteries have operating voltage of 12v I assume?

2. the 250-300w panel operates best at 24v.

3. your pwm is most likely a 12-24v auto controller.

4. if the inverter is confirmed as operating on 12v, I suggest you buy 150-160w panels instead.
5. if you are using only one 100ah battery, optimum charging current (C/10) is 100/10= 10amps. your panels must produce MORE than this, taking into account efficiency of the panel and insulation levels at your location.

6. the maximum current from a 150w panel is less than 10a, about 7-8amps depending on the brand. so you will need more than just one panel. taking onto account, your location which determines hours of insolation available and probable time of use of the inverter ( most likely daytime - since it is an office)...you may need at least 2-3nos of 150w panel.

7. panels are oversized to subsidize the current required by daytime connected loads, like office equipment. this method prevents entire current to my exceed safe discharge rate of the batteries.

8. safe discharge rate is max C/20 of the total capacity of the batteries installed. e.g 100ah has a safe discharge rate of 100/20= 5amps DC. at 12v that is a equivalent to a load of 12*5= 60w.

9. so in summary, you will require
1nos 1kv/12v inverter
1nos 30a pwm controller
1nos 100ah battery
2/3nos 150w panels( connected IN PARALLEL)
installation accessories like DC breakers are usually standard.
you need a breaker to be able to isolate the PV unit.
you need a breaker to be able to isolate the batteries too.
a SPD ( surge protective device) is usually required on both AC& DC sides of the system. this greatly increases cost.

cables:
PV cables: you go for 3nos panels, you need cables to bear 1.25*Isc*3 amps. let's say Isc(check panel specs at the back of the panel) is 9amps, you will need cable that can safely conduct 9*1.25*3= 33.75a at 12v over THE REQUIRED DISTANCE FROM LOCATION OF PV TO YOUR CONTROLLER. use a minimum of 10mm PV flex ( student price - just go for full core ordinary 10mm not flex, to save cost)

Battery cables: I doubt you will load the 1kv to its load rating. however your DC BATTERY cables must be rated for the highest continuous load current expected. so that's 1000/12 = 83amps at 12v. (practically a 25mm cable should do)

there are actually websites where you could check the required gauge of cables for DC projects. you can surf the web for that.


since it is a school project you need not go ballistic in expenses, you are required to demonstrate working proof of concept. so leave out the american brands of stuff. a visit to Alaba will suffice or some good natured vendor here will do the us the honor of giving you a student discount.

peeps, let's get our guy over the line!

Wao thanks... I'll. Be visiting alaba on Wednesday.. Still trying tom catchup to all you said.. Thanks a lot

lexi28:


hi,
are you sure? the volume of air pushed by this 24w fan, is it adequate for the job required as depicted in the diagrams shown?

anyway if that's wattage of the fan, then the rest is easy.

load 24w/12v
load current consumed:24/12=2amps
1nos 24w/12v DC fan
1nos 150w panel
1nos 10a pwm controller
1nos 65ah/12v battery

calculations:
duration of load :12hrs
Ah consumed : 12hrs *24w/12v =24ah
depth of discharge on battery: 24/65*100= 36% (good). 2 days autonomy.

panel current : 150/18v = 8.33 (typical value)
you expect practically 70% of this value = 5.83a

C/10 rate (optimal charge rate) for the battery is :65ah/10h = 6.5a. 5.83a is pretty close to that. due to the fact that you said your location is in the north, you can expect better.

typical costs:
150w panel >= 25k, chinko panels are cheaper. some for as low as 19k.
10a pwm charge controller (generic brand):<= 5-7k
65ah battery: 25-47k. (long brand is the expensive one, Chinese batteries cost less.)
24w DC fan: Alaba is your best bet.

it is a student project, you are required to show working proof of concept. no need to spend over the top for high end gadgets.

cheers

hope this helps. any other questions, post them too. best of luck.

once again I hope vendors here can give you a student discount. lol.

Thanks lexi28 you have been so helpful. I appreciate you
Pls can someone suggest vendors that I can contact? Kinda new to this thread

eleojo23:
Please can someone recommend good external chargers for deep cycle batteries?

How many amps charger or what's the capacity or type of battery u intend charging?

ojeysky:


I do not have a bus bar but what I have done in my case was to shove both the PV and SPD cables in the DC breaker input, I don't know if the SPD will still do it's work with such setup.

is your breaker a double pole breaker? if yes, then the SPD connection should be made to the breaker inputs.
if no, the breaker positive is OK, just find a common negative to connect the SPD negative to, preferably not directly at the controller terminals or most likely at the battery negative terminals (depending on the connections you used).
the ground terminal of the SPD should go to the common ground/earth you have. if you do not have a good ground or earthing connection, the SPD is pretty much useless.
if you got all connections correct, even without a bus bar, it will still work.
cheers