lexi28:


is your breaker a double pole breaker? if yes, then the SPD connection should be made to the breaker inputs.
if no, the breaker positive is OK, just find a common negative to connect the SPD negative to, preferably not directly at the controller terminals or most likely at the battery negative terminals (depending on the connections you used).
the ground terminal of the SPD should go to the common ground/earth you have. if you do not have a good ground or earthing connection, the SPD is pretty much useless.
if you got all connections correct, even without a bus bar, it will still work.
cheers

Yes it's a double pole breaker[1], so the PV cable and SPD cable goes into it. As to the earth, I have not yet connected that, I plan link it to the earth point of the CC(the CC is already connected to my home earthing system).

1] Yes I currently just place the SPD and DC breakers on the CC will hang it somewhere later to make it neat.

aorseer:

Thanks lexi28 you have been so helpful. I appreciate you
Pls can someone suggest vendors that I can contact? Kinda new to this thread

you're welcome.

a suggestion : you can contact a fellow student Horlaarsco who posted above, he is going to Alaba on Wednesday as he posted. if you ask him nicely, he can oblige you the favor.

depending on your budget, you could search for monikers like JUO, Zeestone for quotes, other vendors freely post their goods and prices a few pages back. some ogas like Mr Niyi, Mr Pranil , GeorgeD1, may have a few odds and ends from their spare stores for you. just ask nicely. there are other core enthusiasts who could be of help. send out your request, if there are items you cannot get or if your budget is tight.

best of luck, keep us updated on your progress. wish you heavens best.

[quote author=ojeysky post=81138214]

Yes it's a double pole breaker[1], so the PV cable and SPD cable goes into it. As to the earth, I have not yet connected that, I plan link it to the earth point of the CC(the CC is already connected to my home earthing system).

1] Yes I currently just place the SPD and DC breakers on the CC will hang it somewhere later to make it neat.[/quote

hi, the SPD is only effective when the earthing terminal is used, as it is now, its on holiday.lol. everyone starts out small, once you tidy up the wires, you're good to go.
cheers

harizonal123:

How many amps charger or what's the capacity or type of battery u intend charging?

Starting with a 100ah for now so I think 10-20amps charger

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have an alternative hypothesis - the watts consumed by an appliance changes at different stages of work/duty cycle the appliance is in, other factors like mechanical state, maintenance e.t.c may influence the wattage e.g an electric iron may consume 1.3kw at full power when heating up the element but say 800w at a lower power setting and even less watts in standby.

What you are experiencing as different watt readings has no correlation to battery or mains voltage within a standard operating band, rather it is the device's operating efficiency and amount of work being done that drive the watts consumed - so a freezer may start up at 1000w briefly then go to 180w then after 24hours and all food frozen go to 70w. If you opened the freezer a bit, compressor may kick on again and go back to 180w.

The amps drawn by a device will vary based on the voltage of the power source so if measuring DC amps, the same wattage load may show twice the amps or more if measured at 24v source vs. 12v source.

To clarify the science, if all other factors are held constant, the watts an appliance consumes will be influenced only by the device's design/operating efficiency and the stage of work cycle the device is at. The amps draw on the other hand will vary with the operating voltage of the source being measured.

If you are measuring thesame device and getting different wattage readings, it is either different stages of the work cycle or calibration error of the measuring instrument.

I considered all the possibilities including your alternative hypothesis when I clearly noticed the trend and while it may give some acceptable though not incontrovertible explanation for the changes in watts of the freezer cabinet with different stages of refrigeration, ambient temperature, lid closing-opening cycles, it definitely won't explain the nearly half reduction in measured consumption of the sliding gate opener when removed from a 12v system to a 24v system. It equally doesn't explain that phenomenon as it occurs with the TV.

Now what I presume is this: The intrinsic consumption of any device remains the same when placed on any system (12v, 24v, 48v). However a measuring device to measure the current consumption on a 12v system may require some re-calibration when it is to be applied to a 24v system or other systems. Remember these measuring devices are not CC-CV (constant current-constant voltage) devices. And the reason isn't really far fetched. The same reason I can comfortably use a 1000 watts device on a 24v 1kw inverter without the inverter to some extent whereas the same rating of 1000 watts equipment will not be tolerated by a 12v 1kw inverter.

The 24v inverter will operate that 1kw equipment at 500 watts tolerable limit for the system while the 12v inverter will operate the same 1kw equipment at 1kw intolerable limit.

Though no experience with a 48v system yet, I believe the same extrapolation will go for a 48v system which will operate the same 1kw appliance at a much lower (maybe like 250 watts). In all instances, the wattmeter will measure somewhat different
consumption.

Another similar experience i had is with use of generator. I had a freezer connected to the gen via the wattmeter. I also had a washing machine and pumping machine plugged in at different socckets in the house but without wattmeters.

With the freezer only working, the freezer wattmeter read 227v/115 watts. When the pumping machine kicked in about 2 minutes later, wattmeter freezer readings changed to 200v/139 watts. A minute later that washing machine was used, generator output dropped to 185v and the freezer mmeasured wattage shot up to 156 watts.

In all of these scenarios, I think it's basically the Voltage-Current inverse relationship that played out and in this the law of V=IR and Power=IV applies. Remember that AC wattmeters function on the "hall effect" which involves measuring the CURRENT using electromagnetic induction in a coiled inductor around the LIVE wire to the appliance.

So the standard i believe, is to measure using 220v grid power which is almost always constant,although the "half and low" current that bedevils Nigeria's grid supply may defeat that.

I still stand corrected in all my assumptions though.

Namzy:

It's grid power although my axpert inverter has bypass mode but I use grid more often and allow the inverter rest

It's still on the inverter though. What I think is "completely disconnected" from the inverter and plugged directly into the mains via the wattmeter, then note the wattage consumption. And oh, also note the instantaneous AC Voltage input to the freezer as measured by the meter also.

Namzy:

It's grid power although my axpert inverter has bypass mode but I use grid more often and allow the inverter rest

Sorry i just went through your submission again, carefully.

So if it's less 70 watts connected directly to grid, that my brother is some cool shyte. That's one heck of a great power saver freezer you got there. Even the regular DC powered freezers consume no less, capacity for capacity and are way more expensive.

oluwaslimzzy:
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How much is the
12v 12ah
12v 18ah?
I've had pretty disappointing experience with 18AHs (about 5pcs so far) that I used, all bought off of Konga at different times from different sellers. Perhaps those I bough then were expired ones.

Do you have the 12v 24ah?

Penuelseun:
Pls link of the seller and if possible pictures

wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C">https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32954335647.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C

Had to make a re-order as I burnt off the one I had before while I was doing some tweaking with the gate opener. Took the delivery yesterday and fixed it same day.

As you can see, the delivery took less than two weeks.

The whole system (inverter, battery, SCC) was modular, in a plastic conduit box inset in the fence. I noticed sometime ago that the inverter occasionally cuts off the power output during the daytime. Trouble shooting revealed the over-temperature protection feature causes that. The midday sun and afternoon sun literarily shines directly on that box. Sadly the inverter fan is the "always on" type and it is not a powerful one (not powerful at all) and you can hardly hear the fan when it works. So I considered replacing the stock 24 volt fan with a spare powerful, equal dimension 12 volt fan I salvaged. I couldn't recall where I kept the CC-CV buck converters I had in storage. So I decided to go with in-line current limiting resistor approach. Hooked things up and as I was connecting the 24v battery supply, the fuse and apparently more things burnt cos the replacement of the fuse did not revive the inverter.

Now the replacement does the same over-temperature protection shyte and I am wary of even tweaking anything now.

I have tried removing the top of the inverter to leave it open for some air to circulate but it doesn't seem to make much difference. Since it's modular (for the opener alone), I prefer to leave it in its position embedded in the fence. I also don't wanna put some small roof covering to shield it from he sun in order to keep the aesthetics of the fence.

Peeps please what do you suggest?

Dishtech:
For I have small package like that, 2 used 40ah LiFePo4 battery (10k each), 250watt solar panel (33k) 40A pwn charge controller ordered from China (6.5k) and a homemade inverter made by my self (7k), cable (3k) TOTAL #69,500. This power my 32" Led TV, home theater, decoder, my standing fan, charge my phones, and 4 Led bulbs. Am usually home from 7pm which my appliances comes on then, till 11:30pm or 12am bed time TV is off leaving light and fan till 3 or 4am when weather is cold fan is off leaving light till day break. If am home I equally use the system when battery is charged from noon and the system is running smoothly for 6 months going. Below are my setup!

Why don't you with time, consider replacing your inverter with an inexpensive pure sine wave type in order to have more efficiency from the system? A 500 watts peak, 300 watts continuous power PSW inverter will suffice for your load requirements.

I am sure your inverter will have a high no-load current draw that will reduce the efficiency of your system.

By the way, you dey lucky with your Li-Po batteries o. That size is perfect for some waka wey I get for plan. Abeg you fit show me the way? Na beg adebeg

mcTrinity:


hi Ola,

you're looking at something like this... the two separate battery banks can be independently charged with inverter or solar...

please, ensure you use a quality Change over switch. I used 100A A&Bt brand ... or you look for MG brand. confirm the thickness of the current-carrying part...

Hope this helps

cheers

Just thinking. Can this set up be automated with some combination of timer relays and battery SOC sensors? Those timer relays that handle up to 40 amps would do.

Dishtech:

You can use ups but with some modifications like
1. Battery cable, 2. Adding Fan, Adding MOSFETs if there is space or use a higher rate ups for 1/3 load ( 1,500 VA for 500va Load). 3. Use external charger solar system for charging. Then you are good to go without any problems. But for me I can build mine from scratch.

@ Dishtech.
I feel you could help to repair a damaged 500 watts/24v PSW inverter. Shebi?

harizonal123:

Very possible but you have to choose which cc charges each battery with the change over one at a time. You can't charge the two batteries at same time

If I were in his shoes, I will consider using AC charger to charge one set of the battery that is not connected to the solar with the AC output from the set connected to solar panels during sun hours. Then do the switch over later. That way, he won't have to use two SCCs and he won't have to divide his solar panels into two to create two different charging circuits.

The AC charger will ensure that the battery is topped up as early as possible and the charging functions of the chargers are automatically turned off once the battery is full, hence he needs not worry about overcharging his batteries with AC charger

ceaser:


wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C">https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32954335647.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C

Had to make a re-order as I burnt off the one I had before while I was doing some tweaking with the gate opener. Took the delivery yesterday and fixed it same day.

As you can see, the delivery took less than two weeks.

The whole system (inverter, battery, SCC) was modular, in a plastic conduit box inset in the fence. I noticed sometime ago that the inverter occasionally cuts off the power output during the daytime. Trouble shooting revealed the over-temperature protection feature causes that. The midday sun and afternoon sun literarily shines directly on that box. Sadly the inverter fan is the "always on" type and it is not a powerful one (not powerful at all) and you can hardly hear the fan when it works. So I considered replacing the stock 24 volt fan with a spare powerful, equal dimension 12 volt fan I salvaged. I couldn't recall where I kept the CC-CV buck converters I had in storage. So I decided to go with in-line current limiting resistor approach. Hooked things up and as I was connecting the 24v battery supply, the fuse and apparently more things burnt cos the replacement of the fuse did not revive the inverter.

Now the replacement does the same over-temperature protection shyte and I am wary of even tweaking anything now.

I have tried removing the top of the inverter to leave it open for some air to circulate but it doesn't seem to make much difference. Since it's modular (for the opener alone), I prefer to leave it in its position embedded in the fence. I also don't wanna put some small roof covering to shield it from he sun in order to keep the aesthetics of the fence.

Peeps please what do you suggest?

Thanks

Your observations are not incorrect - I am just seeking a plausible explanation - a universal answer as it were.

The things I suspect are

1) Watt meter calibration and internal operating design. Watt- meter is normally expected to read approximately same regardless of operating voltage.

2) A sort of measurement bias if you keep unplugging and plugging the watt meter to make your measurements.

It is dangerous to assume that you could use a larger load on an inverter simply because it has higher nominal voltage. A 1kw rated inverter should handle nearly 1kw whether it is 12v, 24v or 48v. The size of transformer, quality and gauge of windings and other internal components would go a long way to determine what load could be safely borne. I always advise temperature derating of inverter load at a minimum - for Asian origin inverters people usually do max 70% of the inverter rated capacity.

ceaser:


I considered all the possibilities including your alternative hypothesis when I clearly noticed the trend and while it may give some acceptable though not incontrovertible explanation for the changes in watts of the freezer cabinet with different stages of refrigeration, ambient temperature, lid closing-opening cycles, it definitely won't explain the nearly half reduction in measured consumption of the sliding gate opener when removed from a 12v system to a 24v system. It equally doesn't explain that phenomenon as it occurs with the TV.

Now what I presume is this: The intrinsic consumption of any device remains the same when placed on any system (12v, 24v, 48v). However a measuring device to measure the current consumption on a 12v system may require some re-calibration when it is to be applied to a 24v system or other systems. Remember these measuring devices are not CC-CV (constant current-constant voltage) devices. And the reason isn't really far fetched. The same reason I can comfortably use a 1000 watts device on a 24v 1kw inverter without the inverter to some extent whereas the same rating of 1000 watts equipment will not be tolerated by a 12v 1kw inverter.

The 24v inverter will operate that 1kw equipment at 500 watts tolerable limit for the system while the 12v inverter will operate the same 1kw equipment at 1kw intolerable limit.

Though no experience with a 48v system yet, I believe the same extrapolation will go for a 48v system which will operate the same 1kw appliance at a much lower (maybe like 250 watts). In all instances, the wattmeter will measure somewhat different
consumption.

Another similar experience i had is with use of generator. I had a freezer connected to the gen via the wattmeter. I also had a washing machine and pumping machine plugged in at different socckets in the house but without wattmeters.

With the freezer only working, the freezer wattmeter read 227v/115 watts. When the pumping machine kicked in about 2 minutes later, wattmeter freezer readings changed to 200v/139 watts. A minute later that washing machine was used, generator output dropped to 185v and the freezer mmeasured wattage shot up to 156 watts.

In all of these scenarios, I think it's basically the Voltage-Current inverse relationship that played out and in this the law of V=IR and Power=IV applies. Remember that AC wattmeters function on the "hall effect" which involves measuring the CURRENT using electromagnetic induction in a coiled inductor around the LIVE wire to the appliance.

So the standard i believe, is to measure using 220v grid power which is almost always constant,although the "half and low" current that bedevils Nigeria's grid supply may defeat that.

I still stand corrected in all my assumptions though.

Happy Eid-El-Kabir to our Muslim customers! We're loyal and appreciate more of your patronage Insha Allah ... Amin

Courtesy: Smartcellglobal services

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Your observations are not incorrect - I am just seeking a plausible explanation - a universal answer as it were.

The things I suspect are

1) Watt meter calibration and internal operating design. Watt- meter is normally expected to read approximately same regardless of operating voltage.

2) A sort of measurement bias if you keep unplugging and plugging the watt meter to make your measurements.

It is dangerous to assume that you could use a larger load on an inverter simply because it has higher nominal voltage. A 1kw rated inverter should handle nearly 1kw whether it is 12v, 24v or 48v. The size of transformer, quality and gauge of windings and other internal components would go a long way to determine what load could be safely borne. I always advise temperature derating of inverter load at a minimum - for Asian origin inverters people usually do max 70% of the inverter rated capacity.

Okay boss.

Hi house,

Pls those knowledgeable about the internals of an mppt charge controller.....As a rule of thumb, whats the value of the cc input (or output, not so sure) capacitor and its max input voltage? I mean those big black electrolytic caps in them.

ceaser:


wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C">https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32954335647.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b1050d5HVGS6C

Peeps please what do you suggest?

hi, why don't you buy a 12v Dc fan & a GOTV 12v adapter. connect the adapter to output of inverter, then place fan directly blowing into the inverter. that's what I did with the 3kva VIL inverter whose fan only kicks in at 65°c. I connected the above and placed it to blow air into perforated side vents near the inverter transformer. fan only works when inverter is working. the inverter is much cooler now.
OR
most fans in these portable inverters are evacuators not blowers. the fan is not powerful enough to evacuate heat build up hence increase in internal temperature. can you change direction of flow of the fan, so it sucks outside air and blows over internal components rather than evacuate it? Just reverse/flip placement of the fan. ensure some gaps exist in the casing to allow hot air flow through.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Your observations are not incorrect - I am just seeking a plausible explanation - a universal answer as it were.

The things I suspect are

1) Watt meter calibration and internal operating design. Watt- meter is normally expected to read approximately same regardless of operating voltage.

2) A sort of measurement bias if you keep unplugging and plugging the watt meter to make your measurements.

It is dangerous to assume that you could use a larger load on an inverter simply because it has higher nominal voltage. A 1kw rated inverter should handle nearly 1kw whether it is 12v, 24v or 48v. The size of transformer, quality and gauge of windings and other internal components would go a long way to determine what load could be safely borne. I always advise temperature derating of inverter load at a minimum - for Asian origin inverters people usually do max 70% of the inverter rated capacity.

Mr Niyi. I think your explanation fits the phenomenon more. before such abnormal readings of the same device can be accepted, I would prefer a control experiment.

same setup, 2 different watt meters. most likely calibration issues. I believe the wattage of a device at any voltage remains the same, otherwise ohms law becomes void. Energy cannot be created nor destroyed. we only have to account for losses in the system.

all generators I know have a slight voltage drop with increase in load. so a generator is not a stable power supply to base such calculations on.

the issue of a 24v 1kva inverter powering up a load that the 12v version will not power is a not valid as components are different and the surge capacity of both inverters have not been verified.

A 1000w load showing 500w on the wattmeter while run on a 24v system? very weird. it is the current that should be halved not the overall power.

personally, I once had a wattmeter connected when phcn decided to give fluctuating voltages. the wattage of my TV remained the same as the voltage & current kept up with their inverse relationship. all the way from 350v to 165v.
that's my take.

eleojo23:


Starting with a 100ah for now so I think 10-20amps charger

Chat

Namzy:

It's 205 liters with net capacity of 198l[written on the back] final watts after being on for about 6 hours is 56watts

Am really interested in this freezer, I currently have a 5 years old thermocool ccf-219t which is rated 140w but recently went bad and my technician here did some guess work that made it start working but since then it's been operating on 200w and performance has even degraded.

If I may ask, does the hisense have interior lights and fan? Have you tried checking how long items remain in it before it gets defrosted?

ojeysky:


Am really interested in this freezer, I currently have a 5 years old thermocool ccf-219t which is rated 140w but recently went bad and my technician here did some guess work that made it start working but since then it's been operating on 200w and performance has even degraded.

If I may ask, does the hisense have interior lights and fan? Have you tried checking how long items remain in it before it gets defrosted?

It has interior light. Don't know what you mean by fan. As for how long before defrosting, I have not checked but I think my other thermocool is better. But the defrosting depends on a number of factored mostly how much stuff is inside said freezer as more will make them defrost less. Meanwhile because of its wattage its on for about 15 hrs daily so that might also contribute

Namzy:

It has interior light. Don't know what you mean by fan. As for how long before defrosting, I have not checked but I think my other thermocool is better. But the defrosting depends on a number of factored mostly how much stuff is inside said freezer as more will make them defrost less. Meanwhile because of its wattage its on for about 15 hrs daily so that might also contribute

My thermocool has a fan, light and buzzer under its lid; this ensures there is equal distributed temperature within the freezer (I love the freezer unfortunately I lost all the features in the hands of kazeem few months ago when it developed a fault). What's the consumption of your other thermocool?

ceaser:


@ Dishtech.
I feel you could help to repair a damaged 500 watts/24v PSW inverter. Shebi?

I can but I hadly have chance.

microgiant:


It is a Chinese inverter, I think nairaland just deleted the j u m i a website

httpx://www j u m i a dot com dot ng/suoer-3000w-3kva-inverter-with-multiple-protection-18818593.html

SUOER 3000w 3KVA Inverter With Multiple Protection DC 5V USB output
3000W DC 12V to AC 230V
Low standby power cost
Multiple safe protection
High coversion effeciency(>70%)
Universal output socket
Intelligent cooling fan controlled by the workload
This power inverter is extraordinarily designed for home use,which can convert DC 12V/24V of portable power supply to AC 110V/220V/230V and it works for almost all the household electrical resistive appliances

I searched the product and even got the chinese manufacturers website. From what i read, i am not clear about an issue. Is this inverter car charged or solar/generator charged? Thanks

microgiant:


It is a Chinese inverter, I think nairaland just deleted the j u m i a website

httpx://www j u m i a dot com dot ng/suoer-3000w-3kva-inverter-with-multiple-protection-18818593.html

SUOER 3000w 3KVA Inverter With Multiple Protection DC 5V USB output
3000W DC 12V to AC 230V
Low standby power cost
Multiple safe protection
High coversion effeciency(>70%)
Universal output socket
Intelligent cooling fan controlled by the workload
This power inverter is extraordinarily designed for home use,which can convert DC 12V/24V of portable power supply to AC 110V/220V/230V and it works for almost all the household electrical resistive appliances

Car battery charger. Is it powered with car, phcn/gen or solar

The 219H is chest freezer while the other is giant fridge. How many watts will bith consume per day if i on them for 4hrs every other day?

olaolu11:

Car battery charger. Is it powered with car, phcn/gen or solar

What's the maximum charging voltage? I read somewhere that it reaches 15.5v

eleojo23:


What's the maximum charging voltage? I read somewhere that it reaches 15.5v

The highest I have seen my own display is 14.5v while charging & battery voltage always finally reads 13.4v when it is full

ojeysky:


Am really interested in this freezer, I currently have a 5 years old thermocool ccf-219t which is rated 140w but recently went bad and my technician here did some guess work that made it start working but since then it's been operating on 200w and performance has even degraded.

If I may ask, does the hisense have interior lights and fan? Have you tried checking how long items remain in it before it gets defrosted?

Bro if this freezer is really what Namzy claims, then it's the bomb. Just go for it. Just make sure you go shopping armed with your wattmeter for proper confirmation.

Other factors worthy of considerations though, will include the number of hours it is able to keep foods frosted off power (a factor of insulation), cos you can't leave it working overnight. Also in the rainy season are days of poor solar harvest which ma require some shedding. In such times, good insulation of cabinet freezers come into play.

I'm not happy now cos I should have heard about this freezer 6 months ago when I secured that Thermocool.

But going forward, I think I will take more notice of some selected Hisense products in power saving capacity over Thermocool and LG products that I have grown fond of.

ojeysky:


My thermocool has a fan, light and buzzer under its lid; this ensures there is equal distributed temperature within the freezer (I love the freezer unfortunately I lost all the features in the hands of kazeem few months a ago when it developed a fault). What's the consumption of your other thermocool?

If the condenser is changed, the new one may not be a good power saver as the stock. Also these Kazeem technicians will install fan once they work on any freezer. That's added consumption.