Hi Saydfact,
Your post have been very educational and enlightening.
Please the attached is what I intend to start in a month's time.
Is it possible for me to know how many cement will be required to German floor it and it's blinding

Muyi002:
Hi Saydfact,
Your post have been very educational and enlightening.
Please the attached is what I intend to start in a month's time.
Is it possible for me to know how many cement will be required to German floor it and it's blinding

German Floor.

Using 100mm thick slab = 100 bags approx.
Using 150mm thick slab = 150 bags approx.


NOW, If you're wondering WHY? its because your BUILDING is BIG.........

[quote author=Muyi002 post=78458917]Hi Saydfact,
Your post have been very educational and enlightening.
[color=#990000][/color] He is a special gift to people like us. I appreciate him all the way. Keep it up sir! I need ur advice on ceiling materials: I actually want to use the old ceiling boards but I don't know whether they are the ones they said is now the cause of cancer or what. Plz put me through as you usually do. Thanks

[quote author=joycluv post=78561267][/quote]

thanks for the compliments.

I used the old ceiling board in my building too -

to your question, the component that's responsible for 'cancer' has been eliminated by ISO a long time ago.... so it's safe.

saydfact:


thanks for the compliments.

I used the old ceiling board in my building too -

to your question, the component that's responsible for 'cancer' has been eliminated by ISO a long time ago.... so it's safe.

A million thanks! Is it one type or it has different types so I don't get the fake ones. Again, I hope with it I can space the noggin woods 4ft x 4ft? Lastly, do you have any idea how much it goes for now? Sorry for bothering you oooh!

joycluv:
A million thanks! Is it one type or it has different types so I don't get the fake ones. Again, I hope with it I can space the noggin woods 4ft x 4ft? Lastly, do you have any idea how much it goes for now? Sorry for bothering you oooh!

go for NIGERITE or equal equivalent...
on price, i dont know the present market price per m2

saydfact:


go for NIGERITE or equal equivalent...
on price, i dont know the present market price per m2

what about the noggin spacing sir?

joycluv:
what about the noggin spacing sir?

spacing in roofing generally depends on the choice of materials and design.

Our Latest Work.....

Designed and delivered...

�

saydfact:


LINTEL is a LINTEL sir - A bridge to allow you continue your blockwork - it can be done in wood, iron, concrete (our fathers used wood more)..

For Roof Parapet, you would be required to do a beam to tie all elements together.....

ON WHAT YOU REFERRED TO AS A CHAIN LINTEL - I call it A WASTE OF MONEY (my opinion).... if its a bungalow its a luxury not a necessity, if its a storey building its a waste because you wld have a beam..

Thanks

Please i need a little clarification. For a bungalow already has pillars at the sides. Are you saying that chain lintel must be done for parapets? Or we can do the normal spaced lintel? Or what do you mean by beam?

jidobaba:

Please i need a little clarification. For a bungalow already has pillars at the sides. Are you saying that chain lintel must be done for parapets? Or we can do the normal spaced lintel? Or what do you mean by beam?

Do the normally spaced lintels...

If you want to do a concrete parapet - the workmen/specialist would advise you accordingly

FOR NOW; DO THE SPACED LINTEL irrespective

Thanks alot chief

Chief Saydfact,
Please i want to inquire which combination is best for concrete making.

Cement ➕ Granite

Cement ➕ granite ➕ sharp sand

Cement ➕ granite ➕ gravel

Help rate in terms of strength

Muyi002:
Chief Saydfact,
Please i want to inquire which combination is best for concrete making.

Cement ➕ Granite

Cement ➕ granite ➕ sharp sand

Cement ➕ granite ➕ gravel

Help rate in terms of strength

CONCRETE = Cement + Fine Aggregate + Coarse Aggregate

Fine Aggregate = Sharp Sand or Stone dust

Coarse Aggregate = Granite, Gravel

As long as you have all 3 in the right combination; you're good to go.

Note: There are some very clean gravel (without sand content) s good as granite but it's scarce in Nigeria hence I'll advise you use Granite.

Baba,

You are Simply the best

Please can you do a rough estimate of number of planks that will be required for a concrete parapet of building with an external dimension of 19.8m x 13.0m.

Please how many parapet curves can be gotten from a 1 by 12 plank.

Thank you

saydfact:


CONCRETE = Cement + Fine Aggregate + Coarse Aggregate

Fine Aggregate = Sharp Sand or Stone dust

Coarse Aggregate = Granite, Gravel

As long as you have all 3 in the right combination; you're good to go.

Note: There are some very clean gravel (without sand content) s good as granite but it's scarce in Nigeria hence I'll advise you use Granite.

Muyi002:
Baba,

You are Simply the best

Please can you do a rough estimate of number of planks that will be required for a concrete parapet of building with an external dimension of 19.8m x 13.0m.

Please how many parapet curves can be gotten from a 1 by 12 plank.

Thank you

Thanks for the compliments; well appreciated.

To your question on the parapet curve; the principle is:

1. find out the area of plywood purchased ie L x B of plywood
2. find out the area of 1 curve to be gotten; note: its L x B meaning there wld be waste - most parapets wld be 450mm by 450mm
3. find out how many curves you would get from 1 plywood
4. The total number of curves you need for that parapet perimeter is = 109 numbers (@600mm c/c)
5. Find out how many plywoods would give you the required number.


1by12 somi/white wood = You'll need about 50 numbers sliced accordingly.

You should need some 2x2 planks and Bamboo to support too -

The above does not include all the plants you need for scaffold ie for workers to stand on etc.


I prefer using precast parapets or polystyrene parapets majorly. (more affordable and lighter in weight)

Many thanks for the feedback.

i am actually banking on wealth of experience and knowledge to assist on this below.

kindly assist with what you know based on your experience.

1. find out the area of plywood purchased ie L x B of plywood
2. find out the area of 1 curve to be gotten; note: its L x B meaning there wld be waste - most parapets wld be 450mm by 450mm
3. find out how many curves you would get from 1 plywood
4. The total number of curves you need for that parapet perimeter is = 109 numbers (@600mm c/c)
5. Find out how many plywoods would give you the required number.

i actually dont want to do pre-cast parapet as those i have seen for me is not encouraging.

saydfact:


Thanks for the compliments; well appreciated.

To your question on the parapet curve; the principle is:

1. find out the area of plywood purchased ie L x B of plywood
2. find out the area of 1 curve to be gotten; note: its L x B meaning there wld be waste - most parapets wld be 450mm by 450mm
3. find out how many curves you would get from 1 plywood
4. The total number of curves you need for that parapet perimeter is = 109 numbers (@600mm c/c)
5. Find out how many plywoods would give you the required number.


1by12 somi/white wood = You'll need about 50 numbers sliced accordingly.

You should need some 2x2 planks and Bamboo to support too -

The above does not include all the plants you need for scaffold ie for workers to stand on etc.


I prefer using precast parapets or polystyrene parapets majorly. (more affordable and lighter in weight)

Muyi002:
Many thanks for the feedback.

i am actually banking on wealth of experience and knowledge to assist on this below.

kindly assist with what you know based on your experience.

1. find out the area of plywood purchased ie L x B of plywood
2. find out the area of 1 curve to be gotten; note: its L x B meaning there wld be waste - most parapets wld be 450mm by 450mm
3. find out how many curves you would get from 1 plywood
4. The total number of curves you need for that parapet perimeter is = 109 numbers (@600mm c/c)
5. Find out how many plywoods would give you the required number.

i actually dont want to do pre-cast parapet as those i have seen for me is not encouraging.

If i had the info here, I wld have done the calculations - unfortunately I dont - thats why I narrated the principle. I'm not a fan of In-situ concrete parapet so I have less info on the material use ready.

Alternatively, ask the workmen for material schedule and share.....

we both can learn 1 or 2 things from them.
thanks

MY LATEST ARTICLE:

https://www.nairaland.com/5420029/how-calculate-quantity-tiles-needed

Reading through your post has been very educational @saydfact. Thank you.

I have 2 questions I hope you will entertain.

1. Is there any cost savings in laying plumbing pipes prior to pouring concrete? Would require precise measurements to ensure pipes for toilets, showers, etc. are in the correct locations.

2. I've been thinking about another approach for columns. It will be difficult to describe so hopefully you'll catch what I'm describing.

Instead of forming the column by placing blocks on 2 sides and then securing planks on the remaining 2 sides, would there be cost savings in placing the blocks in a pattern so that the re-bar goes through the blocks and then pour concrete into the opening?

saydfact:


Do the normally spaced lintels...

If you want to do a concrete parapet - the workmen/specialist would advise you accordingly

FOR NOW; DO THE SPACED LINTEL irrespective

But chain lintel is better if he is not doing parapet?

AyeMaDaFunMi:
Reading through your post has been very educational @saydfact. Thank you.

I have 2 questions I hope you will entertain.

1. Is there any cost savings in laying plumbing pipes prior to pouring concrete? Would require precise measurements to ensure pipes for toilets, showers, etc. are in the correct locations.

2. I've been thinking about another approach for columns. It will be difficult to describe so hopefully you'll catch what I'm describing.

Instead of forming the column by placing blocks on 2 sides and then securing planks on the remaining 2 sides, would there be cost savings in placing the blocks in a pattern so that the re-bar goes through the blocks and then pour concrete into the opening?

@bold it is cheaper than wood if u want to achieve a big size kind of look column, because of d volume of concrete that will be required.

Rubbiish:

@bold it is cheaper than wood if u want to achieve a big size kind of look column, because of d volume of concrete that will be required.

You answered my question as stated, but unfortunately I didn't explain properly and used the wrong terminology. That is my fault.

Not columns. I meant the posts that are in corners of adjoining walls or long spans of walls like shown in the Shoprite example shared by @saydfact.

Shoprite example - https://www.nairaland.com/4133188/construction-6self-contain-hostel-frm-start/5#61717032

This picture closesly shows what I attempted to describe above. In stead of 1 bar going up through the blocks, it will be starter bars.

.

.

Rubbiish:

But chain lintel is better if he is not doing parapet?

chain lintel is NOT necessary - its almost a waste of fund except you can afford it, LINTEL is NOT same as BEAM.

saydfact:


chain lintel is NOT necessary - its almost a waste of fund except you can afford it, LINTEL is NOT same as BEAM.

I disagree!
It is necessary considering the standard of our blocks. Both lintel & beam are made of same elements, concrete & reinforcement, their usage is what differentiates the two, it is same material.

AyeMaDaFunMi:
Reading through your post has been very educational @saydfact. Thank you.

I have 2 questions I hope you will entertain.

1. Is there any cost savings in laying plumbing pipes prior to pouring concrete? Would require precise measurements to ensure pipes for toilets, showers, etc. are in the correct locations.

2. I've been thinking about another approach for columns. It will be difficult to describe so hopefully you'll catch what I'm describing.

Instead of forming the column by placing blocks on 2 sides and then securing planks on the remaining 2 sides, would there be cost savings in placing the blocks in a pattern so that the re-bar goes through the blocks and then pour concrete into the opening?

Thanks for the compliments... well appreciated.

no1. The piping system depends on how much client is willing to spend, and design.
whether the conduit system (pipes b4 concrete etc) or surface system, the cost difference on small buildings isn't much - it is however more expensive to lay conduit than surface on very big buildings.

to answer your question; its not cheaper to lay conduit pipes (surface is cheaper to run and maintain too)

no2. The problem of having the rebar go through the blocks is that the columns would like be too small to support the building, What carries the structure are NOT the rebars only but a combination of rebars and concrete cover...... so, please stick with the conventional method

Goodluck

Rubbiish:

I disagree!
It is necessary considering the standard of our blocks. Both lintel & beam are made of same elements, concrete & reinforcement, their usage is what differentiates the two, it is same material.

the dictionary definition of both..

Lintel = a horizontal support of timber, stone, concrete, or steel across the top of a door or window.
Beam = A beam is a structural element that primarily resists loads applied laterally to the beam's axis. Its mode of deflection is primarily by bending.

you dont have to agree sir, a car is a car and a bus is a bus..
Thanks boss

saydfact:


the dictionary definition of both..

Lintel = a horizontal support of timber, stone, concrete, or steel across the top of a door or window.
Beam = A beam is a structural element that primarily resists loads applied laterally to the beam's axis. Its mode of deflection is primarily by bending.

you dont have to agree sir, a car is a car and a bus is a bus..
Thanks boss

Was actually expecting u to give practical examples. A lintel is resting above a door or window & supporting any load above it, a beam is resting on a column or suspended & supporting any load above it. Primarily a beam and lintel serve same purpose, in septic tanks, there is clearly no difference between a midway beam & a lintel.
A beam can be steel, wood or concrete same as lintel depending on d structure.