Yes. The contactor will do the switching of the pump. The float switch will just switch the contactor. That way the high current needed to drive the pump will go through the contactor while only the very small current needed to switch the contactor will pass through the float switch. That way you will protect the float switch and not need to change it too often. I haven't had to change my float switch for about 5 years now. If the float switch powers the pump directly, it will get burnt and need to be replaced very frequently.

dejidotun2000:
The float switch is in series with the contactor coil and will energize the contactor.

This saves the float switch from having to make and break the pump(motor current) therefore preserving the float switch contacts.

I use contactors frequently in my setup. I found them a better way to switch high current rather than replacing switches frequently. My normal switches just switch the contactors, not my loads.

adrusa:
Yes. The contactor will do the switching of the pump. The float switch will just switch the contactor. That way the high current needed to drive the pump will go through the contactor while only the very small current needed to switch the contactor will pass through the float switch. That way you will protect the float switch and not need to change it too often. I haven't had to change my float switch for about 5 years now. If the float switch powers the pump directly, it will get burnt and need to be replaced very frequently.

adrusa:
Yes. The contactor will do the switching of the pump. The float switch will just switch the contactor. That way the high current needed to drive the pump will go through the contactor while only the very small current needed to switch the contactor will pass through the float switch. That way you will protect the float switch and not need to change it too often. I haven't had to change my float switch for about 5 years now. If the float switch powers the pump directly, it will get burnt and need to be replaced very frequently.

Oga, can you please draw a schematic outline for us non-technical people?
Gracias !

durodee:

Oga, can you please draw a schematic outline for us non-technical people?
Gracias !

Below is a schematic I pulled from the internet. The contactor is wired as shown. The two switches, red and green are the two switches that control the contactor. When they are both on, the contactor closes and supply power to the pump. To use it for float switch or as a switch, you keep one of the two switches closed by connecting the terminals together without a switch in-between. Then you connect the float switch (or any other switch) to the second switch. When your tank is full, it pushes up your float switch and makes it horizontal. This will disconnect the contact in the float switch and switch off the contactor. When the float switch drops and becomes vertical, the contacts will be made and switch on your pump. I actually leave the other switch connected so that I can turn off the contactor/pump whenever I wish. If you don't connect the second switch, you will have no control over the pump, only the float switch will do the control.

adrusa:



Below is a schematic I pulled from the internet. The contactor is wired as shown. The two switches, red and green are the two switches that control the contactor. When they are both on, the contactor closes and supply power to the pump. To use it for float switch or as a switch, you keep one of the two switches closed by connecting the terminals together without a switch in-between. Then you connect the float switch (or any other switch) to the second switch. When your tank is full, it pushes up your float switch and makes it horizontal. This will disconnect the contact in the float switch and switch off the contactor. When the float switch drops and becomes vertical, the contacts will be made and switch on your pump. I actually leave the other switch connected so that I can turn off the contactor/pump whenever I wish. If you don't connect the second switch, you will have no control over the pump, only the float switch will do the control.

I assume that by contactors, you mean Relay switches, yes?

ceaser:


I assume that by contactors, you mean Relay switches, yes?

Well, they work on similar principles but they are not exactly same. Contactors tend to be bigger, more powerful and work with higher power (current and voltage) compared to relays. https://www.springercontrols.com/news/contactors-vs-relays/

Runx:

Did not see this until now.
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Thanks. I will study this.

adrusa:



Below is a schematic I pulled from the internet. The contactor is wired as shown. The two switches, red and green are the two switches that control the contactor. When they are both on, the contactor closes and supply power to the pump. To use it for float switch or as a switch, you keep one of the two switches closed by connecting the terminals together without a switch in-between. Then you connect the float switch (or any other switch) to the second switch. When your tank is full, it pushes up your float switch and makes it horizontal. This will disconnect the contact in the float switch and switch off the contactor. When the float switch drops and becomes vertical, the contacts will be made and switch on your pump. I actually leave the other switch connected so that I can turn off the contactor/pump whenever I wish. If you don't connect the second switch, you will have no control over the pump, only the float switch will do the control.

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Topmost11:


Oversight? Anyway he made us know it is naijamade. How many will remove the sticker and then sell as other maker?

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I put a timer switch in series with a victron BMV-712 battery monitor relay across the second switch(NO) as permissive to energize the contactor/operate the pump. The timer switch is set to close between 12pm to 1.30pm, while the BMV-712 is set to close at SOC > 85%.

The pump will ONLY switch on between 12pm and 1.30pm as long as the battery SOC is above 85%.
You don't want your pump switching ON anytime it likes, simply because water level is low e.g during the rainy season or poor weather.

I can manually override the timer and BMV by simply activating the NO switch. The float replaces the NC switch.

adrusa:
... I actually leave the other switch connected so that I can turn off the contactor/pump whenever I wish. If you don't connect the second switch, you will have no control over the pump, only the float switch will do the control.

Go a step further and put a NEPA driven relay across the BMV 712 relay so that between 12 and 1.30pm if the battery is still low but NEPA is available, switch on the pump if low level is detected. The tinkering never ends

Barezzi:
I put a timer switch in series with a victron BMV-712 battery monitor relay across the second switch(NO) as permissive to energize the contactor/operate the pump. The timer switch is set to close between 12pm to 1.30pm, while the BMV-712 is set to close at SOC > 85%.

The pump will ONLY switch on between 12pm and 1.30pm as long as the battery SOC is above 85%.
You don't want your pump switching ON anytime it likes, simply because water level is low e.g during the rainy season or poor weather.

I can manually override the timer and BMV by simply activating the NO switch. The float replaces the NC switch.

I'm looking for a charger which I can use to charge a LiFePO4 battery with a maximum charge voltage of 15v. Also, can anyone please suggest a good inverter for LiFePO4 batteries for 12V system or 24V system. You guys are doing an amazing job here. Thank you all.

Im2Busy2Bother:
I'm looking for a charger which I can use to charge a LiFePO4 battery with a maximum charge voltage of 15v. Also, can anyone please suggest a good inverter for LiFePO4 batteries for 12V system or 24V system. You guys are doing an amazing job here. Thank you all.

Lifepo4 chargers are actually rated at 14.6V for 12V Lifepo4 battery but what is most important is the continues charging current design for your battery. You will get the right charger if you can state you battery voltage and charge current.

For inverter, any pure wave sine inverter will work fine as long as you're not using it to charge your Lifepo4 battery. Also, you battery voltage will determine whether your inverter will be 12V or 24V

Barezzi:
I put a timer switch in series with a victron BMV-712 battery monitor relay across the second switch(NO) as permissive to energize the contactor/operate the pump. The timer switch is set to close between 12pm to 1.30pm, while the BMV-712 is set to close at SOC > 85%.

The pump will ONLY switch on between 12pm and 1.30pm as long as the battery SOC is above 85%.
You don't want your pump switching ON anytime it likes, simply because water level is low e.g during the rainy season or poor weather.

I can manually override the timer and BMV by simply activating the NO switch. The float replaces the NC switch.

Good point. My setup at this point is similar. But, I use Home Assistant and Node Red to set up an automation that switches on my pump between 10am and 3pm if my SOC is 86% and my current to battery is higher than 10A. But when I was using NEPA to pump water, I allowed only the float switch to do the control. By the way, the node red and home assistant also run my water heater between 12noon and 4pm if my SOC is 96% and above and my battery current is higher than 20A.

simydan:


Lifepo4 chargers are actually rated at 14.6V for 12V Lifepo4 battery but what is most important is the continues charging current design for your battery. You will get the right charger if you can state you battery voltage and charge current.

For inverter, any pure wave sine inverter will work fine as long as you're not using it to charge your Lifepo4 battery. Also, you battery voltage will determine whether your inverter will be 12V or 24V

You may want to ensure not to charge lifpo4 at that high voltage if lifespan is of importance. Here is another writeup that further confirms this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://2n1s7w3qw84d2ysnx3ia2bct-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Lithium-Iron-Phosphate-LiFePO4-Generic-Charge-Settings.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjy4P6M5annAhVPilwKHeWoDQ0QFjAZegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw0YeP6Q7vas8DXPnnDzE3tn&cshid=1580334738676

Barezzi:
I put a timer switch in series with a victron BMV-712 battery monitor relay across the second switch(NO) as permissive to energize the contactor/operate the pump. The timer switch is set to close between 12pm to 1.30pm, while the BMV-712 is set to close at SOC > 85%.

The pump will ONLY switch on between 12pm and 1.30pm as long as the battery SOC is above 85%.
You don't want your pump switching ON anytime it likes, simply because water level is low e.g during the rainy season or poor weather.

I can manually override the timer and BMV by simply activating the NO switch. The float replaces the NC switch.

AND gate in action...

ojeysky:


You may want to ensure not to charge lifpo4 at that high voltage if lifespan is of importance. Here is another writeup that further confirms this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://2n1s7w3qw84d2ysnx3ia2bct-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Lithium-Iron-Phosphate-LiFePO4-Generic-Charge-Settings.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjy4P6M5annAhVPilwKHeWoDQ0QFjAZegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw0YeP6Q7vas8DXPnnDzE3tn&cshid=1580334738676

Sir! I can boldly say base on CC/CV charging sequence of LFP the charging voltage you'll find on most LFP chargers for 12V LFP battery are rated 14.6V what you really need to pay attention to is the charging current, make sure the current does not go higher than that stated on the battery parameter.

How ever, BMS play a very important role in LFP for cell balancing, over voltage and over current protection, etc...

You may need to intensify your research to be sure. It is for this reason some inverters and CC are built with LFP charge options and once you select it then you can't modiify it. It will charge according to the battery voltage.

In my case, my LFP charger is 14.6V 20A CC/CV and my battery does not change above 14.4V.

You can read through this: https://enerdrive.com.au/2017/11/29/can-charge-lithium-battery-lead-acid-charger/

simydan:


Lifepo4 chargers are actually rated at 14.6V for 12V Lifepo4 battery but what is most important is the continues charging current design for your battery. You will get the right charger if you can state you battery voltage and charge current.

For inverter, any pure wave sine inverter will work fine as long as you're not using it to charge your Lifepo4 battery. Also, you battery voltage will determine whether your inverter will be 12V or 24V

It is a 12v system, the battery spec sheet said it can be charged to 15v, but I thought that was a little bit of a stretch as I've seen many LFP rating to be that of 14.6V

simydan:




In my case, my LFP charger is 14.6V 20A CC/CV and my battery does not change above 14.4V.

Can you share the link where you bought this charger? Thank you.

simydan:



Sir! I can boldly say base on CC/CV charging sequence of LFP the charging voltage you'll find on most LFP chargers for 12V LFP battery are rated 14.6V what you really need to pay attention to is the charging current, make sure the current does not go higher than that stated on the battery parameter.

How ever, BMS play a very important role in LFP for cell balancing, over voltage and over current protection, etc...

You may need to intensify your research to be sure. It is for this reason some inverters and CC are built with LFP charge options and once you select it then you can't modiify it. It will charge according to the battery voltage.

In my case, my LFP charger is 14.6V 20A CC/CV and my battery does not change above 14.4V.

You can read through this: https://enerdrive.com.au/2017/11/29/can-charge-lithium-battery-lead-acid-charger/

The point is not that it can't be charged up to 14.6, my point was that charging at that voltage all the time do have a long term negative effect on the battery. A car speedometer calibrated to 200km/h does not mean one should step on the gas up to 200km/h... Even if you have a road to achieve that all the time, the wear and tear sets in earlier than envisaged.

"Third, there isn't much difference in capacity when charged at 3.4V or 4.2 volts"

https://www.powerstream.com/lithium-phosphate-charge-voltage.htm

It's not a coincidence that lifpo4 makers such as pylontec batteries that are considered superior (mostly for life span) sets a voltage within the 13v range: https://www.cclcomponents.com/blog/pylontech-batteries-us2000-us3000-lv-hub/

Eventually I guess we make our individual choices Sir

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Im2Busy2Bother:


It is a 12v system, the battery spec sheet said it can be charged to 15v, but I thought that was a little bit of a stretch as I've seen many LFP rating to be that of 14.6V




Can you share the link where you bought this charger? Thank you.

Mine came with the battery but, its similar to this one: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32885613130.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32885613130&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=56amp-qoV0m0yoHCFCyt76LXrS9Q1580375075349&browser_id=03c28e6a32d14efea3d87b895d3f66e5&is_c=Y

You can order this one if the charging current does not exceed your battery charging current.

simydan:



Mine came with the battery but, its similar to this one: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32885613130.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32885613130&aff_trace_key=&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=56amp-qoV0m0yoHCFCyt76LXrS9Q1580375075349&browser_id=03c28e6a32d14efea3d87b895d3f66e5&is_c=Y

You can order this one if the charging current does not exceed your battery charging current.

Thanks a lot. You rock. Hope you are enjoying your lithium battery.

Im2Busy2Bother:


Thanks a lot. You rock. Hope you are enjoying your lithium battery.

You're welcome sir!
Yes, really enjoying LFP die!!

tsmall:
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Give me a good offer.

GURUS PLEASE HELP
Inverter 24v 2.5kva vs 48v 2.5kva which is better or is there no difference

Given thesame design ethos, in terms of what they can power not much difference.

In terms of cost, you may spend a bit more on the 48v 2.5kva setup as you will need 4 units of 12v batteries to run 48v vs 2 units of 12v batteries with the 2.5kva.

Holding battery capacity needs constant, if standard battery size was 12v 200Ah, you could bring the cost of a 48v system down by using 4 units of 12v 100Ah. You will likely still spend a bit more as the bigger size batteries are usually cheaper per Kwh.

quest4s:
GURUS PLEASE HELP
Inverter 24v 2.5kva vs 48v 2.5kva which is better or is there no difference

Thanks
I am just a bit skeptic as how efficient the 24v will be as against 48v which supplies more power and possible produce a better pure sine wave
please correct me if am wrong is my assertion

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Given thesame design ethos, in terms of what they can power not much difference.

In terms of cost, you may spend a bit more on the 48v 2.5kva setup as you will need 4 units of 12v batteries to run 48v vs 2 units of 12v batteries with the 2.5kva.

Holding battery capacity needs constant, if standard battery size was 12v 200Ah, you could bring the cost of a 48v system down by using 4 units of 12v 100Ah. You will likely still spend a bit more as the bigger size batteries are usually cheaper per Kwh.