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earthrealm:


i had the same challenge, back then JUO posted an LG inverter fridge, that he claimed consumed 30w, i traced the fridge, and found it, the energy nameplate on it is 110w abi 100w, got me confused. on LG website, the put 265kwh/yr as the annual consumption of the fridge, which if you divide by 365, you would get about 30w. the theory i think is that after working for some time, say 24hrs..i believe the energy consumption gradually drops to below 30w, Juo confirmed that his fridge records zero watts for some periods, so to enjoy these inverter appliances, i have deduced, its best they are powered 247, thats when you get the max energy savings...

the haier inverter fridge, is it frost free?
i am interested on this your fridge waka, pls keep us updated, jumia now has 13amps watt meter for 6500naira, incase you are in need of one

You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

mcTrinity:


You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

Please which fridge is this Model number and the brand

mcTrinity:


You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

But isn't this the behaviour of normal fridge as well? It does seem to be the behaviour of my over a decade old thermocool fridge. By the way I don't think the power will remain low if the fridge losses power for a significant period of time. I think it also depends on the environmental temperature set on the fridge.

mank1234:


He said he is a DIY enthusiast.
He derives joy in doing it from scratch.

I would have expected him to buy coil and build a relay and then take it from there. Or better still produce coil then use it to produce a relay.

Savage

earthrealm:


Savage

and what is savage about him advising me, thought this forum is about DIY and trying to educate ourselves. No man is an island of knowledge

mank1234:


He said he is a DIY enthusiast.
He derives joy in doing it from scratch.

I would have expected him to buy coil and build a relay and then take it from there. Or better still produce coil then use it to produce a relay.

This criticism is not healthy for this forum. You should have come up with your own ideas and design. We are here to learn. Nobody is perfect. We want to learn how to do the contractor type. Thank you!

ojtech8291:
This criticism is not healthy for this forum. You should have come up with your own ideas and design. We are here to learn. Nobody is perfect. We want to learn how to do the contractor type. Thank you!

I'm sorry sir. It will not happen again. It was intended for comic relief and not to cast aspersion.

On contactor wiring
https://youtu.be/_pzBBRjaw0M

On contactor purchasing
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPGTy0

ojeysky:


But isn't this the behaviour of normal fridge as well? It does seem to be the behaviour of my over a decade old thermocool fridge. By the way I don't think the power will remain low if the fridge losses power for a significant period of time. I think it also depends on the environmental temperature set on the fridge.

You're right. The only difference has to do with the soft start. Inverter fridge doesn't require that initial startup surge and would therefore run say in a 500w inverter with no surge capability.

Penuelseun:
and what is savage about him advising me, thought this forum is about DIY and trying to educate ourselves. No man is an island of knowledge

the whole thing is just a joke naah, you guys should loosen up abeg

mcTrinity:


You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

Salivating......

How fridge go dey consume 28watts, something a TV cannor even boast of?

This is cheating.

spartacus11:


Please which fridge is this Model number and the brand

Hi Spartacus11,
It's LG with Model number GL_*201***B

See attached... Cheers

ojeysky:


But isn't this the behaviour of normal fridge as well? It does seem to be the behaviour of my over a decade old thermocool fridge. By the way I don't think the power will remain low if the fridge losses power for a significant period of time. I think it also depends on the environmental temperature set on the fridge.

https://www.kitchenarena.in/inverter-refrigerator/

Check that link. There is a number of "how it works" videos attached that explains how that is attainable.

Like you said, the regular freezers work somewhat efficiently too if not disturbed for a long time, but it's still a lot less less efficient than inverter ones.

And of course, if the fridge is off power for a time long enough for internal temperature to reach the ambient temperature, then it's as goods as back to square one, starting all over again. That's why being left working without power breaking brings the best outta it.

My 203L Haier rated 114 watts clocks in at 118 watts after surge and drops to 103 watts after a while when contents have reached freezing temperatures.

LG bar fridge starts at 78w and settles at 68w after being left unopened for a while.

The shop I went to, I actually noticed that for the same product the inverter compressor version is rated at between 25 to 30 watts above the non-conpressor version. The double door freezer (110 watts for non inverter compressor, 140watts for the inverter compressor)

But I believe the gain is significant and it is on the long term running of the inverter version. Sort of like "national grid Vs solar". High initial cost, but cheap long term cost & maintenance.

The LG "linear inverter" technology explained in the video further stretches things to the limit. The LG linear inverter compressor is not the usual circular motion that has four friction points with the associated efficiency losses. Instead the linear compressor has a single friction point which means efficiency due to friction is reduced and compressor life is prolonged due to reduced wear.

However, apparently that "Linear inverter" is used on premium LG products while the usual "inverter compressor" will be for basic trim.

mank1234:


I'm sorry sir. It will not happen again. It was intended for comic relief and not to cast aspersion.

On contactor wiring
https://youtu.be/_pzBBRjaw0M

On contactor purchasing
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPGTy0

Thank you!

ojeysky:


But isn't this the behaviour of normal fridge as well? It does seem to be the behaviour of my over a decade old thermocool fridge. By the way I don't think the power will remain low if the fridge losses power for a significant period of time. I think it also depends on the environmental temperature set on the fridge.

Hi Ojeysky,

To an extent, yes.... But there are wide differences.
I used to have a Table-Top (student) fridge rated 75W. Every single time the fridge is starting, it pulls around 800/900W...not kidding. Even my 1.5KVA/24V Mopower Inverter beeps. I've run it for over 10hrs,yet it kicks in at over 500W...

My present Inverter fridge cruises from around 20W and gradually reaches the 78W max. It starts coming down after like 5-12hrs. Stabilizes at around 30W after 14hrs.

For the bolded, that's the whole point. Why would it lose power, if you're looking at inverter fridge? With inverter fridge, it's best to run it 24/7. The only periods I cut off power is when there's rain and it comes with Lightning and thunder. I usually do a total isolation of my inverter system, since the house I'm staying doesn't have either a Lightning/thunder arrestor or even grounding for me to use a SPD.
Even if the power loss lasts for about 3hrs, after powering the fridge back, it doesn't go above 55W and within 1hr, it stabilizes back to around 30W...

mcTrinity:


You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

What's the name of the fridge
Sorry seen you've posted it

ceaser:


Salivating......

How fridge go dey consume 28watts, something a TV cannor even boast of?

This is cheating.

Lolz.... It depends on the TV ooo. I have a 32" 55W TV that consumes 18W at Eco mode.

However, attached are 3 different pics for my inverter fridge consumption, after running for certain hours..

Good day, everyone. What capacity of Inverter can handle 1kw radio transmitter efficiently without issues? I was suggesting 5KW inverter.
Secondly, Can one single phase Inverter be loop to power 3 phase appliances?

mcTrinity:


Hi Ojeysky,

To an extent, yes.... But there are wide differences.
I used to have a Table-Top (student) fridge rated 75W. Every single time the fridge is starting, it pulls around 800/900W...not kidding. Even my 1.5KVA/24V Mopower Inverter beeps. I've run it for over 10hrs,yet it kicks in at over 500W...

My present Inverter fridge cruises from around 20W and gradually reaches the 78W max. It starts coming down after like 5-12hrs. Stabilizes at around 30W after 14hrs.

For the bolded, that's the whole point. Why would it lose power, if you're looking at inverter fridge? With inverter fridge, it's best to run it 24/7. The only periods I cut off power is when there's rain and it comes with Lightning and thunder. I usually do a total isolation of my inverter system, since the house I'm staying doesn't have either a Lightning/thunder arrestor or even grounding for me to use a SPD.
Even if the power loss lasts for about 3hrs, after powering the fridge back, it doesn't go above 55W and within 1hr, it stabilizes back to around 30W...

It's like inverter appliances will be my next target of investment, aswear. But it's only ACs, freezer, fridges, washing machines and microwave oven that covers that terrain of inverter tech.

The 203L Haier never even reach one year and I'm already itching for this. that was how I retired a new not too efficient 42 inch LED for an A++ efficient 65 inch after 6 months. Because I couldn't get to sell the former quickly, I was forced to give it out against my wish.

I'm worried this extreme urge of acquisition is not bordering on some abnormality.

mcTrinity:


Lolz.... It depends on the TV ooo. I have a 32" 55W TV that consumes 18W at Eco mode.

However, attached are 3 different pics for my inverter fridge consumption, after running for certain hours..

Bro, 18w for a 32 inch is actually impressive and I won't mind it as a replacement for an 11 yr old LG 32 inch LCD that clocks in at 35 watts at eco max. The 65" consumes 38 watts at eco max, so I know I gat good deal on that.

Who will even buy an 11 yr old 32 inch LCD, reason I've had to live with it like that. Another fear is even if I find a fairly efficient replacement today, next month I won't come here to find someone spotting a 32 inch with 10 watts consumption and I will start thinking about how to replace a month old TV again.

Abeg wetin be the name/model of that your lovely A++ efficient 32 inch again, I want to check something . Is it smart TV?

And the name and model of your fridge too.

ceaser:


It's like inverter appliances will be my next target of investment, aswear. But it's only ACs, freezer, fridges, washing machines and microwave oven that covers that terrain of inverter tech.

The 203L Haier never even reach one year and I'm already itching for this. that was how I retired a new not too efficient 42 inch LED for an A++ efficient 65 inch after 6 months. Because I couldn't get to sell the former quickly, I was forced to give it out against my wish.

I'm worried this extreme urge of acquisition is not bordering on some abnormality.

What's the name and model of the 65 inch A++ television. I can go for the 55 inch of it. Thanks in advance.

Anybody knows of a budget mppt charge controller that logs .i need daily kwh or ah logs. 90k and below.apart from fangpusun.
Incountry and aliexpress, 8 no mind

ojtech8291:
Good day, everyone. What capacity of Inverter can handle 1kw radio transmitter efficiently without issues? I was suggesting 5KW inverter.
Secondly, Can one single phase Inverter be loop to power 3 phase appliances?

Inverter above 1.5kW or 2kVA shoibe do the job if that's the only load.

I doubt that it will work. There won't be phase shift between the phases since there are essentially the same phase.

mcTrinity:


Hi Ojeysky,

To an extent, yes.... But there are wide differences.
I used to have a Table-Top (student) fridge rated 75W. Every single time the fridge is starting, it pulls around 800/900W...not kidding. Even my 1.5KVA/24V Mopower Inverter beeps. I've run it for over 10hrs,yet it kicks in at over 500W...

My present Inverter fridge cruises from around 20W and gradually reaches the 78W max. It starts coming down after like 5-12hrs. Stabilizes at around 30W after 14hrs.

For the bolded, that's the whole point. Why would it lose power, if you're looking at inverter fridge? With inverter fridge, it's best to run it 24/7. The only periods I cut off power is when there's rain and it comes with Lightning and thunder. I usually do a total isolation of my inverter system, since the house I'm staying doesn't have either a Lightning/thunder arrestor or even grounding for me to use a SPD.
Even if the power loss lasts for about 3hrs, after powering the fridge back, it doesn't go above 55W and within 1hr, it stabilizes back to around 30W...

Won't a soft start circuit solve this for conventional inductive loads with high inrush current at start up?...it may just be more economical to get a soft starter and use with conventional inductive loads.

Except of course to upgrade is higher in priority sha.

mcTrinity:


You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON

Strictly talking numbers tho, manually cycling it on and off vs leaving it on may both amount to same average consumption.

If the bar dey and you no dey owe, plus a sizeable investment nest egg, then by all means splurge!
I get DIY Lithium in my gunsight

You only live once baba.

ceaser:


It's like inverter appliances will be my next target of investment, aswear. But it's only ACs, freezer, fridges, washing machines and microwave oven that covers that terrain of inverter tech.

The 203L Haier never even reach one year and I'm already itching for this. that was how I retired a new not too efficient 42 inch LED for an A++ efficient 65 inch after 6 months. Because I couldn't get to sell the former quickly, I was forced to give it out against my wish.

I'm worried this extreme urge of acquisition is not bordering on some abnormality.

ceaser:


It's like inverter appliances will be my next target of investment, aswear. But it's only ACs, freezer, fridges, washing machines and microwave oven that covers that terrain of inverter tech.

The 203L Haier never even reach one year and I'm already itching for this. that was how I retired a new not too efficient 42 inch LED for an A++ efficient 65 inch after 6 months. Because I couldn't get to sell the former quickly, I was forced to give it out against my wish.

I'm worried this extreme urge of acquisition is not bordering on some abnormality.

Lolz... Truth is, sometimes, you can never get them once. There's always a newer and more energy-efficient version.
I have a colleague who doesn't use iPhone more than one year. And there are people like that; always changing to newer versions of phones, and that's because the cash is there...

But then, it depends on you. You can manage what you have or you can upgrade.

Now, there are fans of about 15W or less, at highest speed. And people are changing fans.

Whether you choose to change appliances for newer and more efficient versions depends on how passionate you are about efficiency and then availability of the resources... Usually more of passion and addiction

ceaser:


Bro, 18w for a 32 inch is actually impressive and I won't mind it as a replacement for an 11 yr old LG 32 inch LCD that clocks in at 35 watts at eco max. The 65" consumes 38 watts at eco max, so I know I gat good deal on that.

Who will even buy an 11 yr old 32 inch LCD, reason I've had to live with it like that. Another fear is even if I find a fairly efficient replacement today, next month I won't come here to find someone spotting a 32 inch with 10 watts consumption and I will start thinking about how to replace a month old TV again.

Abeg wetin be the name/model of that your lovely A++ efficient 32 inch again, I want to check something . Is it smart TV?

And the name and model of your fridge too.

Attached is the data for the TV... Go with a watt meter when you want to goan buy, e get why!

For the bolded, kindly check up... I've posted the model and pictures earlier.

Cheers

Trippledots:


Won't a soft start circuit solve this for conventional inductive loads with high inrush current at start up?...it may just be more economical to get a soft starter and use with conventional inductive loads.

Except of course to upgrade is higher in priority sha.

Hi Trippledots,

I doubt if you can just buy a soft starter and use it with any inductive load. I believe that load has to be designed for such. For example, you can't just buy a soft starter or a VFD for an electric motor simply because you want to "check" the surge pull of that motor; the motor must be designed for such method of starting, otherwise it would malfunction..

By the way, note that what Soft starter or VFD does is that it reduces the Voltage/frequency applied to the inductive device and gradually ramps it up. If you apply a reduced voltage/frequency to a device not designed for such, it would burn out.

An inverter fridge cruises from very low watt up to about its rated watt, with the rated voltage/frequency applied to it.

So, it's not that simple to just use a soft starter

Soft starter may not work for fridge/freezer cos of compressor. It will work for pump and some type of motor load.

If you reduce the voltage/frequency too much it will stalled and forego the startup process.

ceaser:

The 203L Haier never even reach one year and I'm already itching for this. that was how I retired a new not too efficient 42 inch LED for an A++ efficient 65 inch after 6 months. Because I couldn't get to sell the former quickly, I was forced to give it out against my wish.

I'm worried this extreme urge of acquisition is not bordering on some abnormality.

The itch is real. If it's any solace, you are not alone.

mcTrinity:


Hi Trippledots,

I doubt if you can just buy a soft starter and use it with any inductive load. I believe that load has to be designed for such. For example, you can't just buy a soft starter or a VFD for an electric motor simply because you want to "check" the surge pull of that motor; the motor must be designed for such method of starting, otherwise it would malfunction..

By the way, note that what Soft starter or VFD does is that it reduces the Voltage/frequency applied to the inductive device and gradually ramps it up. If you apply a reduced voltage/frequency to a device not designed for such, it would burn out.

An inverter fridge cruises from very low watt up to about its rated watt, with the rated voltage/frequency applied to it.

So, it's not that simple to just use a soft starter

Hi,
I think I get your point, but maybe the way i understand the soft starter is different from yours. There is this DIY video i watched of someone designing a soft starter for use with inverters. The main component was a thermistor,i think..... Its resistance increase as it heats up, so as the inductive load pulls current, the component heats up, resistance increases and hence current draw is pinched enough to avoid heavy power surges.

Most common inductive loads should be able to handle such scenario.

Where i may agree with you is that the soft starter needs to be sized appropriately for the load it is carrying, which can just mean sizing to meet the inverter's maximum power rating.


VFD is another kettle of fish tho.