Olodapsing:


Thanks for the swift response Sir.

German floor area = 160m²

Total Wall for plastering = 170m

So I need estimations for German floor (using 100mm thick concrete) = 70 bags of cement, 15 tonnes sand, 28 tonnes granite
Plastering materials - 30 bags, about 10 tonnes of plaster sand
Labour cost = German flr about 70k and plastering/dressing about 100 -150k

Thanks again

Share the quote you got with me, it also helps me review or modify my methodologies.

Goodluck

saydfact:


Share the quote you got with me, it also helps me review or modify my methodologies.

Goodluck

Thank you very much.

Below is what he sent, I think he made a mistake with the quantity of cement.

Calculating of the 4inch floor
gravel _ 3 tipers
Sharp sand_2 tipers
Cement_30 bag's
Water.............
Wmship=75,000


for the plastering
Plastering sand_5 tipers
90_bags of cement
Water...........
Wmship=195,000

Can I compromise with the German floor thickness?
Maybe to like 75mm
The land is really a good land, we got something like the attached while digging the foundation

Olodapsing:
Can I compromise with the German floor thickness?
Maybe to like 75mm
The land is really a good land, we got something like the attached while digging the foundation

if I say yes, dem go query me for here oooohhhhh
lol

Fund and Quality na words and opposite - in the worst case (fund), do it.

saydfact:


if I say yes, dem go query me for here oooohhhhh
lol

Fund and Quality na words and opposite - in the worst case (fund), do it.

All clear Sir

Hello broda

Your thread is really educative and enlightening. Do keep it up for us.

Pls I want to know if there are reliable people doing terrazo floors in Edo State particularly Etsako region. If you have any pls share and the cost implications for a four bedroom apartment.

Thanks a bunch bro

emy9ja:
Hello broda

Your thread is really educative and enlightening. Do keep it up for us.

Pls I want to know if there are reliable people doing terrazo floors in Edo State particularly Etsako region. If you have any pls share and the cost implications for a four bedroom apartment.

Thanks a bunch bro

Thanks boss for the good words.

Unfortunately, I do not have any contact on terrazzo... More so in Edo.

Thanks

Thanks for this educative and informative thread.
Please I need to know the disadvantage if any of using less clayey laterite for back filling.
Thanks.

PatryG:
Thanks for this educative and informative thread.
Please I need to know the disadvantage if any of using less clayey laterite for back filling.
Thanks.

Thanks for the kind words.. Well appreciated.

Off course, the less clayey laterite is best, because clay is very sticky and hard to compact.

Normal Laterite is perfect or sharp / filling sand which is more expensive.

Very educative

saydfact:


Thanks for the kind words.. Well appreciated.

Off course, the less clayey laterite is best, because clay is very sticky and hard to compact.

Normal Laterite is perfect or sharp / filling sand which is more expensive.

Really thank you and equally grateful for the unexpected timely response.

Sorry to bother you, may I know the cost of 20ton laterite? I'll be grateful if you have a contact that can supply us in Ibadan.
Thanks.

PatryG:

Really thank you and equally grateful for the unexpected timely response.

Sorry to bother you, may I know the cost of 20ton laterite? I'll be grateful if you have a contact that can supply us in Ibadan.
Thanks.

In lagos we buy a tipper for about 20k, can't say for Ibadan.

saydfact:


In lagos we buy a tipper for about 20k, can't say for Ibadan.

Thanks for the response Sir.
I was linked to a supplier this morning who gave a quote of #28K for 20 tons. Do you think this is a good deal Sir?
Thanks

PatryG:

Thanks for the response Sir.
I was linked to a supplier this morning who gave a quote of #28K for 20 tons. Do you think this is a good deal Sir?
Thanks

YES - it is

saydfact:


YES - it is

Thanks Sir.

This is double wall done in the foundation, is it okay and would prevent collapse/ gaps/breakaway in future? Also, if I can't afford German floor, what else can I do for I am told not doing it leads to wet walls. And should I fill laterite or continue the structure and do laterite later. Thanks

Topmost11:
This is double wall done in the foundation, is it okay and would prevent collapse/ gaps/breakaway in future? Also, if I can't afford German floor, what else can I do for I am told not doing it leads to wet walls. And should I fill laterite or continue the structure and do laterite later. Thanks

The height isn't looking too high... But it's safer to have a short column if there's need for double wall or where more than 4 courses are visible after the land.

If you can't afford German floor, do the laterite filling at least and always prevent trees from growing inside the foundation.


OR instead of the column and double wall, you can fill the outside where more than 4 courses are exposed to cover more blocks.. The idea is to resist the pressure from inside the foundation trying to push the wall outward.

Goodluck

How many blocks will go right round a land of 50 by 100 ie perimeter? Thanks

Topmost11:
How many blocks will go right round a land of 50 by 100 ie perimeter? Thanks

200 blocks per Course

I need a estimate for self contain

saydfact:


Thanks boss for the good words.

Unfortunately, I do not have any contact on terrazzo... More so in Edo.

Thanks

Ok. Thanks brother.

saydfact:


Thanks boss for the good words.

Unfortunately, I do not have any contact on terrazzo... More so in Edo.

Thanks

Oga Saydfact,

Thank you for all you do.

We want to start building on a land that has a foundation already and we intend to to the German floor.

It would be 2 flats up and 4 one room and palour flat downstairs.

It seem it was 12mm rod that was used in the foundation. Is it OK to continue to use it as it going to be a storey building or we change it.

Thank yoh

temi4fash:


Oga Saydfact,

Thank you for all you do.

We want to start building on a land that has a foundation already and we intend to to the German floor.

It would be 2 flats up and 4 one room and palour flat downstairs.

It seem it was 12mm rod that was used in the foundation. Is it OK to continue to use it as it going to be a storey building or we change it.

Thank yoh

Thanks for your kind words.

My advice would be to change please...
Thanks and may God make it easy.

The 12mm would still be useful for lintels..
Goodluck

saydfact:


Thanks for your kind words.

My advice would be to change please...
Thanks and may God make it easy.

The 12mm would still be useful for lintels..
Goodluck

Thank you sir.

Since the foundation has been done before we got the land.We should dig out and remove all the 12mm and change to 16mm before we do the German floor.

temi4fash:


Thank you sir.

Since the foundation has been done before we got the land.We should dig out and remove all the 12mm and change to 16mm before we do the German floor.

saydfact:

Thanks for your support.

My 3-bedroom building is presently at dpc level(I am doing the filling). I am seriously considering using cement stabilised bricks(mortar or mortarless, I am undecided on that yet). And i don't want to plaster both in and out. From pictures i have seen and actual construction sites visited, i realise I need to incorporate columns. I am guessing the columns are for load bearing for the roof structure. But, i do not have columns on the present structure. Do i break the necessary places and introduce the columns or it is too late? Also funds are not readily available so I am building as the funds come from savings and other means. What I am looking at is if I finally decide to go for bricks, I will suspend building and produce total bricks I need, get other materials ready for roofing and get everything done at once(laying of bricks and roofing) during a dry season. I can use the period of wait to gather all necessary materials and generally get ready. Please kindly advise. Thank you.

PS: is it colour that is added to the mortar to change the colour to the reddish brown?. If I decide on mortar as binder, I will prefer the colour to be same as the bricks and not the ash/white of normal cement( dangote/elephant etc). I just love bricks for the aesthetics.
I have about 450 9" blocks and 600 6" blocks on ground. I don't see hem as waste as I will used them to do 3 courses of blocks before completing the rest with bricks. The 6" leftovers can still be used for fencing. Thanks.

Topmost11:
My 3-bedroom building is presently at dpc level(I am doing the filling). I am seriously considering using cement stabilised bricks(mortar or mortarless, I am undecided on that yet). And i don't want to plaster both in and out. From pictures i have seen and actual construction sites visited, i realise I need to incorporate columns. I am guessing the columns are for load bearing for the roof structure. But, i do not have columns on the present structure. Do i break the necessary places and introduce the columns or it is too late? Also funds are not readily available so I am building as the funds come from savings and other means. What I am looking at is if I finally decide to go for bricks, I will suspend building and produce total bricks I need, get other materials ready for roofing and get everything done at once(laying of bricks and roofing) during a dry season. I can use the period of wait to gather all necessary materials and generally get ready. Please kindly advise. Thank you.

PS: is it colour that is added to the mortar to change the colour to the reddish brown?. If I decide on mortar as binder, I will prefer the colour to be same as the bricks and not the ash/white of normal cement( dangote/elephant etc). I just love bricks for the aesthetics.
I have about 450 9" blocks and 600 6" blocks on ground. I don't see hem as waste as I will used them to do 3 courses of blocks before completing the rest with bricks. The 6" leftovers can still be used for fencing. Thanks.

i replied earlier but got banned and post deleted

Topmost11:
My 3-bedroom building is presently at dpc level(I am doing the filling). I am seriously considering using cement stabilised bricks(mortar or mortarless, I am undecided on that yet). And i don't want to plaster both in and out. From pictures i have seen and actual construction sites visited, i realise I need to incorporate columns. I am guessing the columns are for load bearing for the roof structure. But, i do not have columns on the present structure. Do i break the necessary places and introduce the columns or it is too late? Also funds are not readily available so I am building as the funds come from savings and other means. What I am looking at is if I finally decide to go for bricks, I will suspend building and produce total bricks I need, get other materials ready for roofing and get everything done at once(laying of bricks and roofing) during a dry season. I can use the period of wait to gather all necessary materials and generally get ready. Please kindly advise. Thank you.

PS: is it colour that is added to the mortar to change the colour to the reddish brown?. If I decide on mortar as binder, I will prefer the colour to be same as the bricks and not the ash/white of normal cement( dangote/elephant etc). I just love bricks for the aesthetics.
I have about 450 9" blocks and 600 6" blocks on ground. I don't see hem as waste as I will used them to do 3 courses of blocks before completing the rest with bricks. The 6" leftovers can still be used for fencing. Thanks.

1. Brick is more expensive, more durable and if properly done more beautiful (pleasing to the eye)

2. Normally for bungalow, there's no need for columns except at entrance porch AND if soil is NOT stable (send pics of land and building to enable me advice properly

3. Depending on the choose of brick, there could be need to plaster or not plaster; also the workmen MUST be real good and precise if you wont be plastering.

Thanks for the comments and GOODLUCK

Hello guys,

What's the current cost for 20 tons sharp sand now in lagos.

Hello please who has a well 3bedroom plan for an half plot of land