ojeysky:


Ojeysky is the one asking for more as no one has indicated interest to buy the ones he has. He'd rather put them to good use

ceaser:
Please, biko, e jòwó, anyone or any vendor here has this in stock, sinometer (timer) for AC power?

My AE order won't get here for another two weeks and I think I should get it around here.

foonshur:
Pls for those who have ordered from amazon, is there anything special one has to do, or its just order and wait like aliexpress?

essegis:
In the space of a week, I lost 2 of this and had to get one thinking for what could be the reason. We have pinpointed it though and this write up is for educational purposes.

1) The is an AC breaker used as a battery output / inverter input breaker which strictly should be DC. An AC breaker can and will work if you remember that AC and DC ratings are not exactly the same and factor in the coefficient in your design.

2) Breaker was used in a 24v system while same breaker in a 48v system supplying same load is working fine with no issues. A 24v system will draw out double the battery amps for same load than a 48v system would.

3) The water pump automatic changeover for my system got bad so we ignorantly dumped the load on the 24v system and believe this is the main culprit as on the days the inverter is loaded and it still runs the pump the amps will get too much for the breaker to bare.

4) Unanswered question though is are breakers not supposed to trip once they receive over-current? Why is this one burning instead? Answers are welcomed.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are very lucky to not have caused/had a fire boss.

AC breakers should strictly never be used for DC applications - this has been reinforced several times on this thread.

The mechanism of operation (how the breakers make/break contact and handle the resultant arc) is very different between AC and DC breakers.

An AC breaker breaks contact at the zero crossing point (that moment when the AC waveform is moving between positive and negative polarities) whereas in a DC application there is no such zero crossing point since the waveform is essentially flat. The DC breaker therefore has to absorb and extinguish a much larger current arc (think mini explosion).

That is why an AC breaker will soon or ultimately fail if used in a DC application - it is not designed to contain the current arcs (explosions and sparks) that will be produced when making or breaking DC contact.

You really dodged a bullet here. Please do not repeat the experiment as there are good DC breakers cheaply and plentifully available.

For educational purposes, you could try using the common knife switch as a battery breaker or manual disconnect when there are large loads on the DC bus. Notice the huge sparks that result at each point of making or breaking contact You can dissaassemble the knife switch after 10 connects and disconnects and note how the metal contacts have been eaten away by the current arcs. That is what is going on inside your AC breaker if used for DC application.

Breakers respond to changes in current - at 220v, a 1.5hp pump is drawing about ~5 AC amps. You could get by using a 6A to 10A AC breaker on the AC wiring. If this load was running off a 24v nominal system, the DC side is seeing ~45amps so imagine going to use a 10amp AC breaker or even a 60amp AC breaker on the DC cabling, you would soon see that breaker give up under stress and erupt in flames. You would need to grossly oversize an AC breaker to use it safely for DC and even then, it would still not be safe or code compliant.

Namzy:

Is it not better to just connect the wire directly to the batteries?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are very lucky to not have caused/had a fire boss.

AC breakers should strictly never be used for DC applications - this has been reinforced several times on this thread.

The mechanism of operation (how the breakers make/break contact and handle the resultant arc) is very different between AC and DC breakers.

An AC breaker breaks contact at the zero crossing point (that moment when the AC waveform is moving between positive and negative polarities) whereas in a DC application there is no such zero crossing point since the waveform is essentially flat. The DC breaker therefore has to absorb and extinguish a much larger current arc (think mini explosion).

That is why an AC breaker will soon or ultimately fail if used in a DC application - it is not designed to contain the current arcs (explosions and sparks) that will be produced when making or breaking DC contact.

You really dodged a bullet here. Please do not repeat the experiment as there are good DC breakers cheaply and plentifully available.

For educational purposes, you could try using the common knife switch as a battery breaker or manual disconnect when there are large loads on the DC bus. Notice the huge sparks that result at each point of making or breaking contact You can dissaassemble the knife switch after 10 connects and disconnects and note how the metal contacts have been eaten away by the current arcs. That is what is going on inside your AC breaker if used for DC application.

Breakers respond to changes in current - at 220v, a 1.5hp pump is drawing about ~5 AC amps. You could get by using a 6A to 10A AC breaker on the AC wiring. If this load was running off a 24v nominal system, the DC side is seeing ~45amps so imagine going to use a 10amp AC breaker or even a 60amp AC breaker on the DC cabling, you would soon see that breaker give up under stress and erupt in flames. You would need to grossly oversize an AC breaker to use it safely for DC and even then, it would still not be safe or code compliant.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are very lucky to not have caused/had a fire boss.

AC breakers should strictly never be used for DC applications - this has been reinforced several times on this thread.

The mechanism of operation (how the breakers make/break contact and handle the resultant arc) is very different between AC and DC breakers.

An AC breaker breaks contact at the zero crossing point (that moment when the AC waveform is moving between positive and negative polarities) whereas in a DC application there is no such zero crossing point since the waveform is essentially flat. The DC breaker therefore has to absorb and extinguish a much larger current arc (think mini explosion).

That is why an AC breaker will soon or ultimately fail if used in a DC application - it is not designed to contain the current arcs (explosions and sparks) that will be produced when making or breaking DC contact.

You really dodged a bullet here. Please do not repeat the experiment as there are good DC breakers cheaply and plentifully available.

For educational purposes, you could try using the common knife switch as a battery breaker or manual disconnect when there are large loads on the DC bus. Notice the huge sparks that result at each point of making or breaking contact You can dissaassemble the knife switch after 10 connects and disconnects and note how the metal contacts have been eaten away by the current arcs. That is what is going on inside your AC breaker if used for DC application.

Breakers respond to changes in current - at 220v, a 1.5hp pump is drawing about ~5 AC amps. You could get by using a 6A to 10A AC breaker on the AC wiring. If this load was running off a 24v nominal system, the DC side is seeing ~45amps so imagine going to use a 10amp AC breaker or even a 60amp AC breaker on the DC cabling, you would soon see that breaker give up under stress and erupt in flames. You would need to grossly oversize an AC breaker to use it safely for DC and even then, it would still not be safe or code compliant.

omotoda:


Oga Niyi,please for some of us that this explanation is scattering our head kindly just state the appropriate DC circuit breaker rating for 12V,24v 36v and 48v battery set up

DADAL:


One cycle is counted when the accumulated discharge reaches a lower SOC over any chronological period. The battery bank were changed by the grid or solar before reaching a cycle threshold.

omotoda:


Oga Niyi,please for some of us that this explanation is scattering our head kindly just state the appropriate DC circuit breaker rating for 12V,24v 36v and 48v battery set up

AndroBlaze:


Please quote back if these batteries are still available.

zeestone99:


You size appropriately with current involved.

omotoda:


Please can you clarify?I was expecting perhaps a maximum rating say okay use 63amps250 volt DC breaker for a 12volt or .....Something like a maximum safety standard for each system based on maximum allowable parameters

Teewhy2:


sir oga kiekie1
1) what is the battery cycle life of this carbon battery (230 AH)
2) Compared to normal tall tubular battery how long does it react to overcharging and acid spillage.
3) Do we top it up with distilled water as well.
how can we download or view the battery data sheet.

zeestone99:


If you go back few pages, you will find where this was discussed. A 63amps 250v for example like you said will trip when a 70amps 48v passes through.

DADAL:


Yes they’re still available

omotoda:


How sir?Why 48volts.I dont understand the maths

zeestone99:


If you go back few pages, you will find where this was discussed. A 63amps 250v for example like you said will trip when a 70amps 48v passes through.

kiekie1:
Felicity lithium batteries are also available for order !

Felicity batteries comes in various capacity ratings in kwh but those who don't get this do confuse ahms conversion / interpretation .

We observe some prospects fall for slight price variations forgetting they might be getting lower capacity at the end .

24v 3.5kwh isn't 200a but 150a capacity rating BUT I rather get 24v 5kwh (slightly higher than 200a) which is bit higher in price and readily available for order!

I have clients seeking for 200a or higher felicity equivalent , they're available in :
24v 5kwh
48v 10kwh & 12.5kwh etc

DISCOUNTED PRICES:

24v 3.5kwh ... 405k
24v 5kwh ...... 490k
48v 7.5kwh ... Updating
48v 10kwh .... 1,120,000

Feel free to reach us for transactions as usual ...

Contact,
Smartcell global services
CALL:: 081-350-31951
WHATSAPP::: https:///2348170385620

earthrealm:
My 4kva 48v mustpower inverter appears to have developed fault,

Intermittently the output flickers for several seconds and it will make violent sounds, the closest sound to it is the sound it makes when its trying to power a load wirh a huge surge, such as ac or sumo.

As this is happening, the cooling fan will turn on, and the load % display will flicker from the normal 10% it was to 30 or even 40% for a few seconds and then everything normalizes again.

This could then repeat again next 15mins or 30mins or 1hr.

I have disconnected the load, and observed it. It doesnt behave like that on zero load.

Does any body have an idea, what could be wrong.
It was deployed in 2016 and has served me wella Since

NiyiOmoIyunade:
A 63A breaker is rated to carry 63A indefinitely - it may or may not trip at 70A.

The breaker response to current depends on the current response curve rating - Type A, B, C, D e.t.c Most of the breakers I see locally are C-Curve.

If you have a very rapid rise in amps over and above the rated current (such as a short circuit) then a breaker is likely to trip quickly. A slow and steady ramp up may not cause a trip.

See screenshots below for the various ratings and working tolerances.

This is one of the reasons why there is a market for those electronic voltage and current protection devices you sell since they have a much more precise response. I have yet to see a DC version though.